HKPolice
12-15-2005, 05:47 AM
Pros:
-8 Phase power supply, even though it 'isn't done properly' like craig588 pointed out, it's still A LOT cooler than the DFI NF4 especially when running high vcore + amps (IE Dual core). Basically, one set gives the baseline vcore, and the other set gives the +0.2v overvolt option.
-Passive chipset cooling. It works. Those tiny dinky fans on normal boards eventually get LOUD and have to be replace. I especially hated the stock DFI NF4 fan because it ran at over 7000rpm @ 12v which basically forces you to throttle it down via BIOS and then it's barely pushing any air.
-Able to attain extremely high HTT speeds even with modest +0.1v options in bios. I was running 290HTT with 4x multiplier = 1160Mhz actual HTT speed. Didn't bother trying higher, but I'm pretty sure 300HTT x4 = 1.2Ghz and beyond would be a breeze.
-I don't know if it's just me, but I saw almost a 1K increase in 3DMark05 going from the DFI NF4. 13.4K default with dual 7800GTX @ 486/1.35 to 14.2K with the SAME settings in everything. Turned the CPU up to 2.8Ghz from 2.75, and it went to 14.4K.
-Higher CPU overclock. On the DFI I was only able to push my X2 to 2.75Ghz stable, Running 2.8Ghz stable on the A8N32 /w TT BT
-Higher ram overclock. With 2GB CE-6 sticks, I was only able to get 265Mhz on the DFI and it wasn't completely stable. 268Mhz on the A8N32 would run memtest non stop at the same timings.
Cons:
-Warm boot hell. The SLIGHTLEST instability, such as CPU vcore being too low, memory timings too tight or not enough voltage, etc etc will cause warm boot problems when you're pushing the CPU/Ram to it's limits. It won't post, and you'll have to press the reset button. Sometimes, it'll post again, but if you go into BIOS and turn down the settings, it probably STILL won't post, as if the lowered settings didn't save. If that happens, just reset to defaults again, save exit, then start over from scratch.
-By default, the L1 and L2 cache ECC settings are disabled, for more information, read this: http://www.lostcircuits.com/advice/bios2/4.shtml I've read that one or 2 users have experienced crashes when the computer is left idling. This would be the cause. I've tried the fastest 40ns setting and I think it affected my 3DMark05 score by 200points. I've left it at the lowest 84ms setting right now and it doesn't affect 3DMark performance, so I'll leave it at that until I experience instability after idling. If I do, then I'll change it to a faster setting.
-The heatsinks on the mosfets Do not have any thermal grease under them, just some grey rubber pad. I urge all owners to PLEASE remove the heatpipe assembly and slap on some thermal grease onto the mosfets. The grey pads are stuck on really well, so I didn't bother trying to remove them. I have a feeling that the 2 CPU deaths on this board might of been caused by overheating mosfets. Asus has hot glued some plastic caps onto the back of the clips holding down the whole heatpipe assembly, they are easily removed with some twisting from pliers. There might be some glue stuck between the wedges of the clips, remove them with a toothpick or something similar. I would suggest that you Do NOT simply replace the clips because the springs in them are strong than regular springs of this type. This provides sufficient pressure to ensure that the whole assembly does not twist when torque is applied, which could could damage to either chip.
-BIOS bugs: as Ben805 mentioned, make sure the APM menu is NOT empty. If it is, reset to defaults and the page should be full again. Sometimes, if the memory is unstable, certain settings such as the HTT may freeze when you're trying to adjust them with the + or - keys. Bios version 703 is the most stable right now, do not bother with the others.
-DDR skew setting depends on the type of ram you're using. With CE-6 chips, normal was better. With Ballistix running @ 280Mhz, Delay450ps was a MUST for me. I also had to disable dynamic Idle cycle.
-The normal Vcore adjustment menu DOES NOT WORK Above 1.3625v (at least for Dual core CPUs). You HAVE to enable the +0.2v overvolt option to go any higher. This also enables the 2nd set of mosfets, so if you don't enable it, you'll basically be running on a 4phase board. Oddly enough, if I set the vcore to 1.375 + overvolt, the actual reading was 0.01v LOWER than 1.3625v + overvolt. This trend continues all the way upwards :rolleyes:
-The vcore readings in the hardware monitor are a JOKE, if you're serious about overclocking, whip out a multimeter and get actual readings. The 2 empty cap sockets below the copper fins are a good spot to measure. Usually, the BIOS readings are lower by 0.05v. Basically the same offset as the DFI NF4 board, it's like a marketing gimmick to trick you into believing that you're running at a lower vcore.
Volt mods
-Dual core CPUs are limited to 1.61v. If you want higher, you'll need to solder a 50K VR to pin8 on the ADP3168 chip (thanks to Craig588), left of the dimm sockets. Relatively simple mod and has been rock stable for me.
-Vdimm works off 3.3v rail, so you can just solder a line from the 3.3v rail directly to vdimm. VTT tracks automatically. Measuring point is the empty cap socket to the right of the dimms.
Conclusion:
Took me about a week of tweaking and modding to get this board up and running properly. Has it been worth it? To me: yes. Ben805 also mentioned that according to his UPS, the A8N32 was running 38-40watts lower than the same setup on the DFI NF4.
The board also looked very baron with so few caps, and so many empty cap sockets, so I soldered a bunch of them around the mosfets and dimms. Don't really know if they help much, but it hasn't hindered anything so far.
Basically, if you don't mind getting your hands dirty, this is the board for you. If you're a relative novice to the overclocking scene, I wouldn't recommend this board.
I will try to update this thread with more tweaks/hints/tips as I encounter them.
Edit: Here's a working version of clockgen http://www.cpuid.com/download/ClockGen.zip In my experience, it only works maybe half the time.... The other half it hangs the system :(
Updates:
-Cmos reset jumper is blocked by 2nd PCIe release tag, it's easier to just pop the battery. Thanks jimi, almost forgot about that.
-AMD CPU driver should be installed ASAP. I couldn't get HL2/CSS to work without it. Worked fine on the DFI though.
-8 Phase power supply, even though it 'isn't done properly' like craig588 pointed out, it's still A LOT cooler than the DFI NF4 especially when running high vcore + amps (IE Dual core). Basically, one set gives the baseline vcore, and the other set gives the +0.2v overvolt option.
-Passive chipset cooling. It works. Those tiny dinky fans on normal boards eventually get LOUD and have to be replace. I especially hated the stock DFI NF4 fan because it ran at over 7000rpm @ 12v which basically forces you to throttle it down via BIOS and then it's barely pushing any air.
-Able to attain extremely high HTT speeds even with modest +0.1v options in bios. I was running 290HTT with 4x multiplier = 1160Mhz actual HTT speed. Didn't bother trying higher, but I'm pretty sure 300HTT x4 = 1.2Ghz and beyond would be a breeze.
-I don't know if it's just me, but I saw almost a 1K increase in 3DMark05 going from the DFI NF4. 13.4K default with dual 7800GTX @ 486/1.35 to 14.2K with the SAME settings in everything. Turned the CPU up to 2.8Ghz from 2.75, and it went to 14.4K.
-Higher CPU overclock. On the DFI I was only able to push my X2 to 2.75Ghz stable, Running 2.8Ghz stable on the A8N32 /w TT BT
-Higher ram overclock. With 2GB CE-6 sticks, I was only able to get 265Mhz on the DFI and it wasn't completely stable. 268Mhz on the A8N32 would run memtest non stop at the same timings.
Cons:
-Warm boot hell. The SLIGHTLEST instability, such as CPU vcore being too low, memory timings too tight or not enough voltage, etc etc will cause warm boot problems when you're pushing the CPU/Ram to it's limits. It won't post, and you'll have to press the reset button. Sometimes, it'll post again, but if you go into BIOS and turn down the settings, it probably STILL won't post, as if the lowered settings didn't save. If that happens, just reset to defaults again, save exit, then start over from scratch.
-By default, the L1 and L2 cache ECC settings are disabled, for more information, read this: http://www.lostcircuits.com/advice/bios2/4.shtml I've read that one or 2 users have experienced crashes when the computer is left idling. This would be the cause. I've tried the fastest 40ns setting and I think it affected my 3DMark05 score by 200points. I've left it at the lowest 84ms setting right now and it doesn't affect 3DMark performance, so I'll leave it at that until I experience instability after idling. If I do, then I'll change it to a faster setting.
-The heatsinks on the mosfets Do not have any thermal grease under them, just some grey rubber pad. I urge all owners to PLEASE remove the heatpipe assembly and slap on some thermal grease onto the mosfets. The grey pads are stuck on really well, so I didn't bother trying to remove them. I have a feeling that the 2 CPU deaths on this board might of been caused by overheating mosfets. Asus has hot glued some plastic caps onto the back of the clips holding down the whole heatpipe assembly, they are easily removed with some twisting from pliers. There might be some glue stuck between the wedges of the clips, remove them with a toothpick or something similar. I would suggest that you Do NOT simply replace the clips because the springs in them are strong than regular springs of this type. This provides sufficient pressure to ensure that the whole assembly does not twist when torque is applied, which could could damage to either chip.
-BIOS bugs: as Ben805 mentioned, make sure the APM menu is NOT empty. If it is, reset to defaults and the page should be full again. Sometimes, if the memory is unstable, certain settings such as the HTT may freeze when you're trying to adjust them with the + or - keys. Bios version 703 is the most stable right now, do not bother with the others.
-DDR skew setting depends on the type of ram you're using. With CE-6 chips, normal was better. With Ballistix running @ 280Mhz, Delay450ps was a MUST for me. I also had to disable dynamic Idle cycle.
-The normal Vcore adjustment menu DOES NOT WORK Above 1.3625v (at least for Dual core CPUs). You HAVE to enable the +0.2v overvolt option to go any higher. This also enables the 2nd set of mosfets, so if you don't enable it, you'll basically be running on a 4phase board. Oddly enough, if I set the vcore to 1.375 + overvolt, the actual reading was 0.01v LOWER than 1.3625v + overvolt. This trend continues all the way upwards :rolleyes:
-The vcore readings in the hardware monitor are a JOKE, if you're serious about overclocking, whip out a multimeter and get actual readings. The 2 empty cap sockets below the copper fins are a good spot to measure. Usually, the BIOS readings are lower by 0.05v. Basically the same offset as the DFI NF4 board, it's like a marketing gimmick to trick you into believing that you're running at a lower vcore.
Volt mods
-Dual core CPUs are limited to 1.61v. If you want higher, you'll need to solder a 50K VR to pin8 on the ADP3168 chip (thanks to Craig588), left of the dimm sockets. Relatively simple mod and has been rock stable for me.
-Vdimm works off 3.3v rail, so you can just solder a line from the 3.3v rail directly to vdimm. VTT tracks automatically. Measuring point is the empty cap socket to the right of the dimms.
Conclusion:
Took me about a week of tweaking and modding to get this board up and running properly. Has it been worth it? To me: yes. Ben805 also mentioned that according to his UPS, the A8N32 was running 38-40watts lower than the same setup on the DFI NF4.
The board also looked very baron with so few caps, and so many empty cap sockets, so I soldered a bunch of them around the mosfets and dimms. Don't really know if they help much, but it hasn't hindered anything so far.
Basically, if you don't mind getting your hands dirty, this is the board for you. If you're a relative novice to the overclocking scene, I wouldn't recommend this board.
I will try to update this thread with more tweaks/hints/tips as I encounter them.
Edit: Here's a working version of clockgen http://www.cpuid.com/download/ClockGen.zip In my experience, it only works maybe half the time.... The other half it hangs the system :(
Updates:
-Cmos reset jumper is blocked by 2nd PCIe release tag, it's easier to just pop the battery. Thanks jimi, almost forgot about that.
-AMD CPU driver should be installed ASAP. I couldn't get HL2/CSS to work without it. Worked fine on the DFI though.