First build

[slavic1705]

A couple days ago I received my single stage kit from chilly. After my finals are over I hope to start my build.

However I already have some questions.

1. Chilly sent me two different sized tubes. One is 1/4th ID and the other is 1/8th ID. Where do I use what?
This is what I'm assuming...
compressor(1/4) -1/4 tube-> condenser(1/4)
condenser(1/4) -1/8 tube-> filter(1/8)
filter -cap-> evap
flex tube(1/4) -1/4 tube-> compressor(1/4)
But I have twice as much 1/8?

2. Can I use an air compressor for pressure testing my evap etc?

Thank you.

[godmod]

you should use inert gas to prevent the oil from getting "sour" and the filter satisfied

[slavic1705]

you should use inert gas to prevent the oil from getting "sour" and the filter satisfied

Ahh I knew there was a reason why I should not do that, and now I know why. Thanks! :banana:

[runmc]

He should have sent you 3/8" and 1/4". Are you sure???

1/4" runs from the small port on the compressor (discharge) to the top of the condenser. 1/4" runs from the bottom of the condenser to your filter/drier. Be sure to point the exit of the filter /drier downward so that the exit is lower than the entrance. Check for directional arrows on the filter/drier. From the exit of the filter/drier to the evaporator you run the captube. Be sure to wrap the captube around the end of the suction line closest to the evaporator.

From the evaporator you run the flex line (suction - 3/8") to the compressor.

Your filter/drier may have an access port on it for the high side(high pressure) of the system. If you have a sevice port on the compressor you can put a low side (low pressure) access valve there.:D

[jinu117]

He might have measured ID of tubing not OD. Refrigeration tubings are measured by OD not by ID. So 1/8 he is talking about probably is 1/4 and 1/4 he is talking about could be 5/16 or 3/8. I would have thought He would have sent out 5/16 considering suction port from compressor usually accepts 5/16.

[slavic1705]

Ok those measurments were ID.

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/507/tubes8ha.th.jpg (http://img35.imageshack.us/my.php?image=tubes8ha.jpg)

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/6965/measure16ac.th.jpg (http://img44.imageshack.us/my.php?image=measure16ac.jpg)

tubing 5/16" OD and 3/16" OD
compressor 5/16" OD
condenser 3/8" OD
flex tube 5/16" OD
IN filter/drier 1/4" OD

So with that said, 5/16 from the compressor to the condenser, 5/16 from the bottom of the condenser to the filter/drier, flex line from evap back to compressor.

Whats the small stuff for?

compressor - http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=small39nh.jpg
condenser - http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=small22tz.jpg

[jinu117]

tubing 5/16" OD and 3/16" OD
compressor 5/16" OD
condenser 3/8" OD
flex tube 5/16" OD
IN filter/drier 1/4" OD

So with that said, 5/16 from the compressor to the condenser, 5/16 from the bottom of the condenser to the filter/drier, flex line from evap back to compressor.

Hold your horses. First located discharge. Should be in front of compressor with smaller ID hole than the other one. You probably will use 3/16 tubing in there to condenser top. condenser to filter drier can be anything you feel like using. Flexline back to compressor on suction port is 5/16 most likely. Service port most likely is at back of compressor where you would stick the schraeder valve and braze it in.

[Gray Mole]

Normally I use 1/4" for the high side (Discharge to condensor to filter) and 3/8" for the suction return.

However you can just as easily use 5/16" where you would use 3/8", and 3/16" where you would use 1/4".

So, run your discharge with 3/16" from the compressor to condensor and out to the filter, captube to the evap, and the suction line feeds into 5/16" back to the suction port on the compresor.

I assume that Chilly's sent you enough for that, but if you've already used the 5/16" for the discharge you'll need more for the suction side, as 3/16" is a little small.

Gray

[Gray Mole]

LOL Jinu beat me to it :D

Gray

[jinu117]

LOL Jinu beat me to it :D

Gray

Think yours is easier to read :) :toast:

[Gray Mole]

Aw shucks ;)

I just wanted to add, there's no reason why the sizes he's sent won't work just as well as what I'm using. The only reason that i'm using the sizes I do, is because that's what's easily available here. My suppliers don't work with 5/16" or 3/16" at all, so I use what I can get.

I didn't want anyone to think that it was a dig at Chilly for sending what he did, as it's just fine :)


Gray

[slavic1705]

:banana:
Ok I've got it. Small tubing(3/16) for the high side (discharge) and big tubing(5/16) for the return (suction).

:toast:

HEHE I just learned something! I will be back when I have another noob question.

I have decided that phase change is like golf, people that do it well make it look easy.

[chilly1]

A couple days ago I received my single stage kit from chilly. After my finals are over I hope to start my build.

However I already have some questions.

1. Chilly sent me two different sized tubes. One is 1/4th ID and the other is 1/8th ID. Where do I use what?
This is what I'm assuming...
compressor(1/4) -1/4 tube-> condenser(1/4)
condenser(1/4) -1/8 tube-> filter(1/8)
filter -cap-> evap
flex tube(1/4) -1/4 tube-> compressor(1/4)
But I have twice as much 1/8?

2. Can I use an air compressor for pressure testing my evap etc?

Thank you.

the 1/8' is actually 3/16, use 12 inches to connect the compressor to the condenser as a desuperheater coil.
the 1/4" is actually and is used for the suction line.

The filterdrier connects directly to teh coil's bottom outlet.

[runmc]

the 1/8' is actually 3/16, use 12 inches to connect the compressor to the condenser as a desuperheater coil.
the 1/4" is actually and is used for the suction line.

The filterdrier connects directly to teh coil's bottom outlet.

LOL - the 1/4" is actually what??:confused:

Now I'm confussed.

Good luck slavic1705:clap:

[jinu117]

LOL - the 1/4" is actually what??:confused:

Now I'm confussed.

Good luck slavic1705:clap:

Might be smaller compressor Reggie found recently.

[slavic1705]

Thnx chilly I understand now.

Here is a pic of my compressor -> http://img207.imageshack.us/my.php?image=small39nh.jpg

I am going to have the A/C tech from my office charge my system, and I want to ask if he has a certain type of gas well in advance. I was thinking R402a, what does everyone suggest?

[chilly1]

LOL - the 1/4" is actually what??:confused:

Now I'm confussed.

Good luck slavic1705:clap:
teh 1/4" is 5/16 OD pipe

[slavic1705]

When brazing smaller tubing(3/16) to larger tubing(3/8) do you just crimp the larger tube and how far in should the smaller tube go? :confused:

[wdrzal]

While most people just crimp one tube inside the other the "proper" way is to buy a constrictor wheel for your tubing cutter. it make a more professional looking connection. its just a wheel thats rounded.

ps: I have found a washer to work as long as they are shimmed correctly and have the right profile (round nose), the constrictor wheel from yellow jacket is $30.00++++++

[slavic1705]

How does this look?

http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/3894/smallbraz7fl.th.jpg (http://img503.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallbraz7fl.jpg)

[wdrzal]

looks like you overheated the copper, but the rod flowed well.

[GuGaCoSa]

Looking good,lot of heat but ok,clean the joint with a brush and post another pic
good start

[slavic1705]

To hot? I didn't think it got hot enough, I kept waiting for the copper to turn red and I finally gave up. However it seems to have worked ok, the one I did before a chunk of my rod fell off and did not flow at all, it just stuck to the pipe.

I will post more pics tomarrow.

Thanks for everyones help so far!

[Gray Mole]

Looks like it took a while to get up to brazing temps and that's why there's so much slag on the pipes. Might be an idea to look at your torch and see whether it's hot enough, or if it's a mapp torch then maybe you're too close/too far form the pipe to get the best out of it.

Also, if you cool it with a wet rag right after it's brazed, most of the slag flakes away instantly and you get a cleaner looking braze.

Gray

[RussC]

Right, dowse with water right away, works very well.

RussC

Looks like it took a while to get up to brazing temps and that's why there's so much slag on the pipes. Might be an idea to look at your torch and see whether it's hot enough, or if it's a mapp torch then maybe you're too close/too far form the pipe to get the best out of it.

Also, if you cool it with a wet rag right after it's brazed, most of the slag flakes away instantly and you get a cleaner looking braze.

Gray

[wdrzal]

cooling quickly can crack the braze and it will temper the copper making it brittle and more likely to crack from vibration. Don't quench, let cool slowly for best joint.

[Gray Mole]

?

Copper anneals from faster cooling, so should actually soften it slighty from faster cooling. Don't know about the filler, but being mostly copper I thought it should follow the same rules?

If I'm wrong about that entirely then it would be good to know, but that's the basic metallurgy of copper I thought. Though sand cooling I believe is what's used for proper annealing I've always used wet rags cos sand is a little awkward to use :rolleyes:

Gray

[wdrzal]

IIRC anealing copper comes from heating to the correct temperature and cooling dosn't make a lot of difference unless it is exsessive.

I never quench a joint because the filler being a different compastion than the copper contracts at a different rate and micro cracks can occur. in fact thats why the flakes "pop" off when quenched. the oxidation contracts at a different rate than the copper.

ps : I always burried metal in sand when I wanted to cool it slowly.

[Gray Mole]

I think it might get a little awkward to dip the whole unit into the sand tho :D

Thanks Walt I'll keep that in mind then. I hadn't really thought about it, but what you're saying makes perfect sense. I haven't had any problem quenching the way I have been, but I don't want any problems in future either, so I'll have to look at it in a different way.

Gray

[RussC]

Ya,
I haven't either. Maybe Ill change the way I did it, but I don't use cold water, usally its warmish. But if it may be detrimental, then change may be good,

RussC

[Icy]

When ever i have been testing my brazing i allways hold a wet rag on the end to take away the heat with out puting the actual braze under "shock" also gives you a chance to remove any oxidated parts off the pipe

[slavic1705]

Today I talked to my friend who is going to charge my system for me and he said he had access to 404a so according to this <a href="http://www.benchtest.com/calc.html">cpu wattage calcuator</a> the wattage on my P4 2.6 OCed to 3.25 is about 110w however I expect this number to go up after my unit is running. Also I am going to buy a new computer in the next 5-6 months. It will be a AMD 4000+ San Siego and I'm not sure on the wattage, does anyone know? So according to Gary Lloyds guide I need about 9 feet of .028 cap tube for 135 watts. Can anyone confirm this.

Here is a pic of that joint after I cleaned it up a bit...
http://img324.imageshack.us/img324/4029/smallbraz26zo.th.jpg (http://img324.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallbraz26zo.jpg)

[slavic1705]

http://img469.imageshack.us/img469/5696/smallsofar15ke.th.jpg (http://img469.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallsofar15ke.jpg)

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/3832/smalldrilling18lv.th.jpg (http://img5.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smalldrilling18lv.jpg)

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/4115/smallevap17iy.th.jpg (http://img381.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallevap17iy.jpg)

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/1529/smallsuc11cq.th.jpg (http://img381.imageshack.us/my.php?image=smallsuc11cq.jpg)

Comments welcome.

[the_new_guy]

good progress dude!!

its coming together!!