Help! :)

[Vex]

hi guys (and galls)

sorry but im a total noob when it comes down to this kinda of cooling, but my dads humidifyer just broke :) and well im not even sure if this is the right place to post about it, but could i use the bits from it to make one of your coolers?
ill post some pics, hopefully you guys know more about it than me..

[Vex]

this one is a round shot of the whole thing
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_5193.jpg

this one is of the rad
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_5194.jpg

i did take a shot of the compressor, but my camra went dead. and the pic was poo so ill just tell u what it says on it..

LG
NR62HAEG

if u need anymore info just ask and ill go find out :)
cheers guys :toast:

[Nyx]

It Depends on what you mean by broken. Does the compressor start? Or is it leaking. OR i dunno. You should not let ppl guess cause they cant give you a definite answer from your post. If you want to convert it to a chiller i can tell you it is possible. But first you must determine what is spoil before you determine whether is it worth to use what it is for.

[Vex]

im trying to work that out now, from what i can tell its a electric problem, the compressor issnt switching on, but after checking the feed thats becasuse its not getting any electricity. not knowing much about compressors and such, i wouldnt want to just try and connect it up to mains without some sort of guidance.

[Gimmpy224]

how would I go about making a chiller from one, cause im looking to do the same thing because it would require much less $$$ than making a phase or building my own DIY chiller.

[Vex]

guys how would i go about testing the compressor? i could ideally do with wiring its own power supply up, how would i go about doing that? could i just use a normal 240v plug? or will i need to lower the voltage?

[RussC]

OK,
to turn that rig into a chiller, you have to modify it like a A/C unit. But you may have to break it to do that:(

If the compressor wont start, Id start with the temp sensor electronics. They were the bad units on my first chiller project. The water temp regulator was bad and would not let AC to the compressor. As soon as I bypassed it, the system worked fine. Next is bad wiring. The issue here is blown wires from over current from a froze compressor or such. Is there a fuse in the system, check that also. Next is the comprssor start electronics, cap, inductor, those may be fried. The last is the compressor motor itself. May be dead.

There should be 2 or 3 wires to the compressor. One will be earth GND. That you don't worry about. The other two are line and neutral. You can just hook those up to your wall socket with a modded power cord. If the compressor runs, then at leadt it may be good. But you have to bypass all the other electronics to do that. If your a noob, and don't feel comfortable with the AC electronics, don't attempt this stuff.

RussC

[Vex]

well ive got 2 wires coming off the compressor, and beacuse its an humidifyer theres a chunk of wires and a pcb. making it complicated to follow what does what...fortunatly theres a scymatic dyagram which shows the wires bascily the one running thu a fuse and the other running dwn to the compressor, yet the fuse it fine and it still wont work.

[Vex]

this is whats on the back
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/back.jpg

and this is the wireing diagram for u guys
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/wire.jpg


what does this tell u? lmao, good or bad?

[RussC]

Oh, thats easy, the comp by schematic has a red/white wire running to it. Disconnect those and run straight to the AC mains, brown/blue. If the compressor is good, it should spin up. But don't run it for long.

But, I'll bet money the controller is toast, not the compressor. Its the high failure rate item in that schematic. Does the fan turn on when the unit is swiched on? Also, there is a full lamp, is that a full indicator for a resovoir that catches condensation from the evap. If so, that may be a high item also. Since theres a indicator lamp, then there must be some feedback to the controller to indicate full.

And, theres a defrost circuit, that may be bad also, this defrost the evap, essentially a heater built into the system. It melts the ice if formed on the evap. Refrigertors do this operation on a seprate timer circuit. May have one there also thats bad.

RussC

[Gimmpy224]

if broken, would i need to regas it and everything?

thats the onnly thing im trying to get around is buying like a vacc pump and geting certified and all that.

[RussC]

If the system needs to opened(gas let out), then yes, you would need to vac and refill. But you dont need certs to regas, propane works very well. In my chiller, porpane cooled 7c better than R134a. Its almost as good as R40x gases. But you still need a vac pump:(

RussC


if broken, would i need to regas it and everything?

thats the onnly thing im trying to get around is buying like a vacc pump and geting certified and all that.

[Vex]

Oh, thats easy, the comp by schematic has a red/white wire running to it. Disconnect those and run straight to the AC mains, brown/blue. If the compressor is good, it should spin up. But don't run it for long.

But, I'll bet money the controller is toast, not the compressor. Its the high failure rate item in that schematic. Does the fan turn on when the unit is swiched on? Also, there is a full lamp, is that a full indicator for a resovoir that catches condensation from the evap. If so, that may be a high item also. Since theres a indicator lamp, then there must be some feedback to the controller to indicate full.

And, theres a defrost circuit, that may be bad also, this defrost the evap, essentially a heater built into the system. It melts the ice if formed on the evap. Refrigertors do this operation on a seprate timer circuit. May have one there also thats bad.

RussC

ill connect it up to a direct ac current after work, if it goes my house blows up im coming after you! lol :P , with the circuit all the other parts work lamps fans the lot..just not the compressor, but as i said theres no feed going to it so....its hard to say whats wrong with it. you know the red and white wires which run to the compressor, i checked there output it was "0".

[RussC]

Which points to the controller being bad, or a bad compressor. If all the lights work and the fan, then voltage is getting to the parts there, but I bet the contorller is not switching the compressor on. I bet the solid state relay in the controller toast. Thats a high failure item. But, the compr could be bad also, but I don't think so....

RussC


ill connect it up to a direct ac current after work, if it goes my house blows up im coming after you! lol :P , with the circuit all the other parts work lamps fans the lot..just not the compressor, but as i said theres no feed going to it so....its hard to say whats wrong with it. you know the red and white wires which run to the compressor, i checked there output it was "0".

[SexyMF]

...propane works very well. In my chiller, porpane cooled 7c better than R134a. Its almost as good as R40x gases

Evaporating temp is close but capacity is poorer? (R290 vs R40x)

[RussC]

Not unless that stuff is in the compressor already, like my Embarco. Since the relay, cap and other electronics are built in, it only needs AC in.

RussC


odd most compressor have 3 connectings. com, run, start with a relay and cap, if a 2 wire then its a low output compressor

[RussC]

Right, capacity is not the same, but ANYBODY can get propane. You need cert to get the R40x class refrigerants.

RussC


Evaporating temp is close but capacity is poorer? (R290 vs R40x)

[Vex]

i can? no i actauly can i was talking to my friend about it yesterday and he was saying about, if we did have to open the loop..he could get propane to put in it. but neither of us knew how you would get it in the loop?

[Vex]

would this work for a chiller? ovastily i dnt know how the piping works for the compressor and stuff but ill learn that later..just really want to know if thats the right principle

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cooling.jpg

[Gimmpy224]

hmmm ^_^ could a guy at a gas station or propane refilling place be able to regas my compressor with propane?

[RussC]

Looks good,

RussC


would this work for a chiller? ovastily i dnt know how the piping works for the compressor and stuff but ill learn that later..just really want to know if thats the right principle

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cooling.jpg

[RussC]

Yup, thats what I did

RussC


hmmm ^_^ could a guy at a gas station or propane refilling place be able to regas my compressor with propane?

[Vex]

would this waterblock be suitable?

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/STORM.asp

idealy i want a universal socket..unless becasue im going to be insulating it its not going to matter too much?

that one is abit expensive, £46 $60ish.. i think ide like a cheaper one, but would acrilic be unsutible? due to the temps?

[Gimmpy224]

mmmmm, I dont think the storm would work well with a chiller ( I think i was told this by someone else )

maybe the apogee?

but im curious as to what would be a good one too.

[Gimmpy224]

I just told my dad about getting it filled with propane and he said, "Are you stupid? You want to compress an explosive gas?!"

any comments on this? cause I never though of that lol.

[RussC]

Your dad isn't very "knowledgeable" about refrigeration. At some point or another, 90% of the guys here have used it. There are commercial refrigerants that are HC(hydro carbon) based, like R12a, R22a, R502a(all Duracool), R290(higer purity propane) and many others(at least 6-7 others). Your dads comments are mis-informed.

As long as there is no oxygen to ingnite the HC, there can be no fire or explosive events. And there is no oxy in the system. All HCs need oxy to burn. All refrigerants can explode with the right conditions, even R12 and R134a, so care needs to be taken with all refrigerants. HC based refrigrants are no more dangerous than the HFCF, and HCF based stuff.

RussC


I just told my dad about getting it filled with propane and he said, "Are you stupid? You want to compress an explosive gas?!"

any comments on this? cause I never though of that lol.

[RussC]

Most say plastic is not suitable, I tend to agree, w/o evidence, it seems self evident. As you can see in my thread (Well, I have frost....) that the DD TDX worked to -25c with the acrylic top. I melted it though, and got the Swiftech 6000/6002. Works fine. I don't think that Storm is bad, should work really good if the plastic can hold up to really low temps.

RussC


would this waterblock be suitable?

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/STORM.asp

idealy i want a universal socket..unless becasue im going to be insulating it its not going to matter too much?

that one is abit expensive, £46 $60ish.. i think ide like a cheaper one, but would acrilic be unsutible? due to the temps?

[Gimmpy224]

i might try to get another to test it :D instead of using mine lol.

hmmmm im going to dive back into the stickys and replace the gases with propane lol, so the guy that refils propane tanks can fill up a compressor for me right?

Im pretty good at brazing since I did it with my w/c kit, plus its just like soldering.

[johann]

You cant just have someone "fill up the compressor" it needs to be charged propperly with the load that it will be running under. You will need someone that does HVAC work do it not "The guy that fills propane tanks" wont do.

If you play around with propane then at least get someone to work on it that knows what hes doing.

[Vex]

is there a special connection u would need to add into the loop to get the gas in and the air out?

[Vex]

WOO!! :banana: :woot:
got the compressor working 2day! and i got frost! which im very happy with, yes there wassnt alot of frost but there was a bit..

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_5222.jpg

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_5219.jpg

just a few other questions;

compressors is there a limit they can run for? or could u contunusly run one? if not how do i make it turn on and off when it needs to?

[Gimmpy224]

damn, I guess I need to start looking for someone in the HVAC business again >_< and if I find them then screw propane ill find something that will get much much colder.

I was just going to do propane to try to get around having to do all the HVAC work.

[Vex]

guys what do u think of this waterblock

http://www.swiftnets.com/products/APOGEE.asp#performance

the small amount of plastic on it is made out of "Acetal" but im unaware of how cold this plasic can get without cracking...googling as i type this lol

[Gimmpy224]

:-P thats what i said lol the apogee, but it has as much plastic as the storm om it 0.o, I would probably go for something all metal ( I think, im not expert nor very knowledgable when it comes to this stuff ).

just read the last part though, so id take someone elses advice over mine on that lol.

and I dont understand why the propane guy wouldnt be able to fill a compressor for me.... wouldnt he need the same stuff to fill up a propane tank?
Im gonna guess not lol, just wanna make sure im answering every angle of this question.

[RussC]

No,
the propane guy fills your "propane tank". You take the tank home and fill the system yourself. Im not sure why this is so hard to figure out. Its very unlikely that the large commercial propane tank will have a fitting that will fit onto your compressor.

I will post a pic later. Mean while, read this thread for propane tank conversion fittings,
propane tank adaptor (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=80692)

RussC


:-P thats what i said lol the apogee, but it has as much plastic as the storm om it 0.o, I would probably go for something all metal ( I think, im not expert nor very knowledgable when it comes to this stuff ).

just read the last part though, so id take someone elses advice over mine on that lol.

and I dont understand why the propane guy wouldnt be able to fill a compressor for me.... wouldnt he need the same stuff to fill up a propane tank?
Im gonna guess not lol, just wanna make sure im answering every angle of this question.

[RussC]

Here are my propane bottle pics
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/6079/propanbotl4cz.jpg
http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/8297/propanbotl18ep.jpg

So, the hand tight connector is put on the bottle, and the 1/8" pipe adaptor to 1/4" male flare is on that. I used the caps so garbage wont get in the opening. Hope that helps.

RussC

[Gimmpy224]

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOO ok, see I thought you said you took the compressor there and got it filled ;)

I see what your sayin now lol.
my bad :D

[Vex]

so, what can i do about the pipes then? no1 seams to know lol

[RussC]

Theres two ways, you bend them OK, or you break it. If you going to dabble in phase change, your going to have to start brazing at some point.

RussC


so, what can i do about the pipes then? no1 seams to know lol

[Vex]

Theres two ways, you bend them OK, or you break it. If you going to dabble in phase change, your going to have to start brazing at some point.

RussC

its not the brazing im bothered about, i'd love to rip the thing apart and start from scratch. its just i dnt know how to fill it, or even vac the air out. :( im going to search the stickys for the answer, i think some 1 should make a stciky devoted to noobs lol, "the basics" :P

[Vex]

posted twice :P

[Vex]

just went on and tryed bending the pipes.....it worked :) :banana: this is how its looking now..just gotta wire it up after work 2moz

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_52392.jpg

[Vex]

and for those who still carnt see it, heres a high res image with some arrows and stuff ;)

www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/plan.jpg

arrows show, air flow and the box shows where the resivour will go for the water cooling.

[RussC]

Great,
It will be interesting to see what performance you get. That cap tube seems a little short for a low temp system. Its probably optomized for a de-humid performance, not super low temp refrigeration. But you can't tear it apart to see.

Can you take a measurement of the cap tube length, and what the outside diameter is for that cap?

RussC

[Vex]

which part is the cap tube?

[RussC]

Cap tube(capillary tube) is the small copper tube from that inside HX(from the bottom into the drier) is coiled around and goes into the outside evap at the top.

RussC


which part is the cap tube?

[Vex]

Cap tube(capillary tube) is the small copper tube from that inside HX(from the bottom into the drier) is coiled around and goes into the outside evap at the top.

RussC

ooo capillary tube lol, yea sure ill measure it up in the moring..or after work

[SexyMF]

So did you ever read the stickies in the Vapor Phase Change section?

[Vex]

i read thu a good amount of it..been thu alot of links 2 :)

[Gimmpy224]

im kinda anxious to get my hands on one now and see if i can bend it without it breaking lol.

[Vex]

as long as u streer clear of the brazings, you should be fine..just go slow tho, if u rush u will kink it.

[Vex]

more piccys, this is after ive wired it up and just testing to see if it still works after the pipe bends.. i also stoped air flow around the cold rad this helped with the temp drop.

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/nippy.jpg
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/frostcals.jpg
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/chilypipe.jpg

[Gimmpy224]

how cold is it though? :D

[Vex]

dunno havnt got a thermometer that goes that low :(

[Vex]

got a thermometer 2day, gave it a qucik run..and heres what i got..

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_5257.jpg

thats it setup like the image above

[Vex]

also, is it safe for my compressor to start to get ice on?

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/IMG_5256.jpg

[MeltedDuron]

that's not good... you're overcharged, have to let some refrigerant out or put load on it (should be fine once you're set up, so leave it as-is for now)

[Stewie007]

Nahh, not overcharged.... just need to overclock more to get the water temp up and then the evaporation rate up... :p JUST KIDDING!

[Vex]

atm thats running completely no load. havnt even put it in the res yet, so its cooling well...the room lol

[Vex]

right guys, i just finished the build so i could test it. and boy oh boy was it sh*t. now i used water in the test, and the temp only droped too -0.4 which i have to say is terrible!. also the cap tube started to become HOT so i turned it off. this was after about 30mins running. i dont know weither beacsue i used water that had anything todo with it? the water didnt freeze and i knew it wouldnt beasue the water was moving. but i thought i would atleast see -5 with it?

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/top.jpg http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/side.jpg

should i try again? im getting to the stage where i might just scrap it and use the the w/c parts for watercooling. but then again, if it was becasue i used water..lol well thats a differnt story then.

[SexyMF]

It takes hours to pull down several litres of water. 30 minutes is only enough time to warm up the compressor. That compressor is fairly small and if it's designed for A/C then the cap tube length is probably set for not so low temps but higher capacity. Without insulation for the reservior you are adding a lot to the heat load.

How hot is the condensor? If you cap tube is hot then you are not cooling the condensor enough. It doesn't really matter how hot (to a point) the cap tube is as long as you know that it's still liquid inside.

Also, I would sleave your mains connections so you don't get a shock when you are putting you hands inside the box to measure things.


Things are progressing well.

[Gimmpy224]

man i wish i had 1 lol


0.o

so do you need to let the setup sit for an hour or two before turning on your comp?

[SexyMF]

so do you need to let the setup sit for an hour or two before turning on your comp?

Only until the highside/lowside pressures equalize. On a healthy system this only takes a few minutes. If the system doesn't equalize and the lowside goes shooting up after you switch off the compressor you have a block.

[Vex]

start of the week finished bulding the "shell" of the case and did a first run. which was APPALING. totally depressing, 0.4 degrees. not even zero, as u all know so i decided to redesign the layout.....15mins pipe bending later and

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/new.jpg

but then i added too much water, even tho i did get down to -5.7 degrees

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/new2.jpg

[Gimmpy224]

:D im watching this post closely 0.0 cause I doubt ill be able to find an hvac guy to help me out so im probably going to have to do what you did :D

[SexyMF]

This is a better layout. But you still really need insulation on the reservior. Lack of it is presenting a large unecessary heatload to the evaporator.

[Vex]

i just finished the insulation of my res, before i didnt get chance beacause i was just testing the system before i insulated so i could seal it all up better. however now ive done it. the worst thing about it was finding a stuitable insulator..i ended up using this... and duck taped it to sucure no flow of air. i know its not perfect but its better than nothing.

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/insulator.jpg

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/insulate.jpg

[Gimmpy224]

you used your pants?

( jk, if thats your leg lol )

What material is that stuff you used to insulate?

[Vex]

PROBLEM. the water in my antifreeze is frozen. im at -6.0 and ive got 1" thick ice around my evap..would pure antifreeze work? i have no plan on going beyond -20 and i should think my pump would be able to pump it, as it was just pumping ice. lol

[Vex]

you used your pants?

( jk, if thats your leg lol )

What material is that stuff you used to insulate?

its some plumers insulation...like a strawy material 10mm thick.

[_HL4E_HalfLife_]

PROBLEM. the water in my antifreeze is frozen. im at -6.0 and ive got 1" thick ice around my evap..would pure antifreeze work? i have no plan on going beyond -20 and i should think my pump would be able to pump it, as it was just pumping ice. lol

If ur Water/Antifreeze mixture is freezing on the evap than u need to add more antifreeze to the mixture. A 50/50 mixture should get you down to -40c or so.

I myself use winter windshield wiper fluid it won't freeze till -40c and does not thicken at low temps.

[Vex]

right i made a little mix of probably %50(windscreen stuff) 25%(water) 25%(antifreeze) and i got down to -10.

http://vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/iceblock.jpg

humm frost?...no...ice? yes.

[MeltedDuron]

looking good :) get some load on it, I'm interested in seeing what capacity this unit has...

[Gimmpy224]

ditto :)

[Vex]

too keep ypu guys up to date, earlier today i decided that before i put it on a cpu i need to get it colder...-10 issnt going to cut it. so off i went down to the pound shop and got me some "Concentrated Screen Wash" its includes anti-freeze and should be perfect. i also put a bottle of diliuted antifreeze in the freezer, so i could freeze the water inside and just get the antifreeze out..will run the system soon again see if i can get below -10.

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/cheap0.jpg

just &#163;1 thats $1.25 too you yanks out there :)

[Vex]

insulation time, well thinking about it anyway...and i hope to insualte my 2500+ XP not in the mood to kill my unused 3000+ just yet. however, would it be ok to insualte the CPU like this, (yes i said insulate the cpu lol)

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/CPUAL.jpg

the black section, shows some of that black foam..commenly used on mouse matts. im allmost 100% that this would work as long as i dnt cover the core..ovcorse i could just use dielectric gel. but getting hold of that over here is a joke i bet.

[SexyMF]

You need the grease on in and around the socket. Even the back of the board.

How have you done the hold-down plate?

[Jochenp]

Man, this made everything soo much clearer!
A mod should sticky this for noobs (like me).
Finally I fully understand how things fit togheter!

[Vex]

the backplate im going to use from a w/c kit ive got..should work fine i need to find some grease then.

[Vex]

right guys, im starting to get abit stressed with this thing. at first i added 100% antifreeze and that bottle of stuff i showed you, that tuned into a icy slime at around -3.5 and wouldnt get anycolder. i put a drop of water in and it the temp droped down to -10 and stayed there. then the next day i added more water and this happened. went to -8 then..
http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/icedup.jpg
ok am i doing something wrong..there issnt enought water in there to effect it this much. i think the antifrezze is freezing?

[fatty]

I had problems with my pump freezing at -25 so is your pump still pumping??? (probably a silly question)

Also I used a 50/50 mix of anti freeze in my water and like I said it was good for -25 ish before it went to slush

Maybe try adding more water by the looks of it you will end up with an ice block in the center and water slushing around the outside or you could even try reversing the water loop have the water come in the bottom and out the top the water will be a little warmer but may still keep flowing???

[Vex]

my pump kept pumping, even when it was a THICK slush...i just carnt work out why it keeps freezing up.. i might try doing with with some load, like hot water or somthing and see what happens

[fatty]

What type of mix have you got in there at the moment??

[Vex]

i would say, probably 50/50 ish or more like 60 antifreeze/ 40water...just ran another test, it droped quite quickly down to -5 then went back to -2.7 and stayed there? really dont know whats going on however as soon as it reached -5 the liquid that was being pumped froze on the rad, almost instantly.

[Vex]

did some lapping today, thought ide make it like a walkthu for those who dont know how to do it..

Stage one,
as those of you know, i brought all my watercooling bits for my "chiller" and mostly i havnt paid much attention to them as well...i had other things to worry about, but now i decided too as my mate pointed out the rubbishnuss of the waterblock i got....

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/IMG_5307.jpg

as you can see from this image...NOT very shiny, and shiny is good :) so this is bad lol

so i got out the sand paper...most people will tell you to start with a low grain like 320 and work all the way down too, well as low as you can find. i argree with this lol. so i started with P320>P500>P600>P1200 only beacuse this is all i could find in the garage..and this is what i got.

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/stage1.jpg

which is better..not good enought tho, but i didnt have anything lower than P1200, so i had a brain wave.

Stage 2,

having recently buffed my car, i decided maby i could do the same with the block..

so..i started with this

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/paste.jpg

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/stage2.jpg

off i went doing that

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/crap.jpg

and look how much i removed from the copper.

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/stage2fin.jpg

now after i finished with that paste, this is how it looked...still alot better but i can still see the scratches and well thats not good enought

Stage 3

T-CUT, yes the stuff you send the kids out to use on your car..which then then pour on, and remove and massive patch of paint. but i used it right, and it was good :) lol

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/tcut.jpg

after applying to a damp cloth :p , i started rubbing and removed a fair amount more of the copper..

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/crap2.jpg

after 20mins the finished item..

http://www.vexed.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/lapping/fin.jpg

just like a mirror.

so to recap.

1. sand paper the surface, using differnt grades
2. use rubbing compound
3. tcut
4. admire, your lovly mug in your heatsink/waterblock

hope this if of some use to some ppl out there.

[RussC]

Umm,
That frozen ice in the bucket is not right at -8C. You need to get some good old automotive anti-freeze, mix it 50/50 with water. If that is frezzing like that at only -8c, then it's not real anti-freeze, that would be used in a automotive cooling system.

RussC

[Gimmpy224]

my god, i could use that block to get an eyelash out of my eye its so reflective.

0.0 good god man! :toast: :banana: :eek: :clap: :slobber:

[SexyMF]

Your mix isn't 50/50 the windshield wash is not 100% glycol. Only with 'added anti-freeze agent' which could mean anything. You need to go to an automotive store and get pure glycol.

Have you lapped your CPU yet? Your block came up great but if it is to mate with a rough CPU surface then it's not helping much.