Chilly1 evap insulation

[NoNOthing]

first off, yes i have read the sticky XD.

The first pic is what my case looks like now, its a P180 and it was a pain to mod the chilly1 under...i wanted it attached to it, not just sitting there.

Now, i have a chilly1 PS unit that is about to go on a 4000+ sandy on a DFI NF3 (it was on an MSI neo2, but that got killed by bad insulation, so i want to make sure im doing it right this time :) ) and i have 2 large donuts that go around the "doscombobulator" and between the top plate and the mobo, and i am wondering which one to use, i used the smaller one last time, but with the larger one, the top plate does not go down to the bottom of the discombobualtor, is that ok? i want a good seal, i cant really afford to get more parts, i was lucky only the mobo died last time (didnt have the cash to go to PCI-e since my vid card was ok, incase you where wondering)

well, i apreciate any help you can offer, thank you.

[NoNOthing]

forgot the pics XD

[Gray Mole]

Picture no. 3 shows the small foam ring under the mount, and the large foam ring over the mount and will seal the evap head to the mobo.

What do you want to know? That looks exactly right, and I have one here that I've just prepped for my next install that looks exactly the same.

Gray

[Gray Mole]

OOPS I see where you're going wrong with that.

The plastic mount is hollow at the back, and you need to slide the back over the small foam ring, or push the foam ring into the hollow back of the mount.

Then the mounting plate will slide all the way down the plastic mount to the ridge on the mount.

Then you slide the large foam ring up onto the plastic mount until it's flush against the plate.

I'll dig out my Modded unit and take a piccy for you asap.

Edit: Have you read through this?

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=56966

Gray

[boostedevo]

Somewhat on-topic (of insulating), how many PS users bother to use conformal coating on the mobo? I was just curious since I did it for my pelt on another mobo, but had to wonder whether or not it was even worth the trouble. Don't mobos have a coating by default to protect the circuits/solder joints? I assume if you've insulated a decent margin around the socket, nothing outside it will drop below ambient simply due to physical conduction through the board?

Anyway, I just ordered a chilly1 kit, so I was curious if I should do any "prep" work to the board so it's ready to roll 2 seconds after the kit gets here :D

[NoNOthing]

yeh, pic would be great, im not entirley getting what you are saying from that.

My main question is, is it ok to use the larger "big" donut and have the top plate not come down all the way on the "discombobulator"? or must it be flush with that ridge on it?

[Ssilencer]

I use conformal coating on the back of the mobo, then dielectric grease. On the front, I use nail vanish (a special one, for electronics) and then dielectric grease on the socket and over the nail vanish on the motherboard.
Do not use nail vanish IN THE SOCKET.
Maybe overkill, but I'd being using the same mobo for about a year without problems.

[s7e9h3n]

..... use nail vanish (a special one, for electronics) ......
:wth:

[Ssilencer]

:wth:

http://www.edelta.com.ar/productos04/aislante_acrilico.jpg

You can use any nail vanish, maybe you like in pink. :stick:

[s7e9h3n]

You can use any nail vanish, maybe you like in pink. :stick:
But which one's the "special one" made for electronics? :p:

[sin0822]

i doubt they make NAIL varnish for electronics.

[Ssilencer]

That one :rolleyes:

[Ssilencer]

http://www.edelta.com.ar/productos04/aislante_acrilico.jpg

You can use any nail vanish, maybe you like in pink. :stick:

:stick:

I hope you can read in spanish, as I can read in english.
http://www.edelta.com.ar/pdfs/fluxes%20removedores%20y%20aislantes/aislante%20acrilico.pdf

[s7e9h3n]

:stick:

I hope you can read in spanish, as I can read in english.
http://www.edelta.com.ar/pdfs/fluxes%20removedores%20y%20aislantes/aislante%20acrilico.pdf
This is my nail polish then. I use the spray for larger areas and the liquid for socket area:
http://mgchemicals.com/products/422a.html

[gclg2000]

Sorry for the OT:

But i've been looking at that case too. I noticed you were able to get your OCZ PSU in there??? I have the 600w OCZ PSU and its very long and i was wondering if it would fit in there...

Could you comment on this plz. (looks like you flipped the bottom 120mm bracket around???)

[boostedevo]

Yeah, I've been using the brush on MG Chem Conformal stuff (urethane one I think). I need to find some place locally that sells the spray since it probably comes out a lot neater.

Ssilencer-- you use DEG on top of conformal and no insulation on the back? I used coating over most of the back and then a decent sized square of insulation over the back of the CPU area. In any event, I'll definitely do the coating while waiting for vapo then. Thanks...

[Dumo]

This is my nail polish then. I use the spray for larger areas and the liquid for socket area:
http://mgchemicals.com/products/422a.html (http://mgchemicals.com/products/422a.html)Use this around cpu socket or around gpu core...http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cgi-bin/scripts/product/3480-0009

[Coyote]

Ssilencer-- you use DEG on top of conformal and no insulation on the back? I used coating over most of the back and then a decent sized square of insulation over the back of the CPU area. In any event, I'll definitely do the coating while waiting for vapo then. Thanks...

board - conformal - deg - armaflex - backplate

[Ugly n Grey]

I gave up and went to liquid electrical tape.... it comes off very easy when it's resale time and I don't have my board on display anway, so could care less what it looks like.

Initially I had problems getting good adhesion, but I started using a very light compound that I use to surface prep cars before painting and I got excellent adhesion thereafter. Dielectric grease does the rest and I've always had that around since i learned to fix cars as a kid.... just my 2 cents

[NoNOthing]

ok, well my thread kinda got jacked, i know what to use on the mobo, but im asking, is it safe to use the larger dount even tho the top plate doesnt go down flush with the "disbombobulator"? and should i use seal tape on the bottom of the top plate so that i know there is a good seal between it and the donut?

[bachus_anonym]

Couple days ago I decided to redo my insulation for the purpose of Chilly1's single stage I've owned for few months now. Seal string (mastic tape) was great but I wanted to have a freedom to go on air whenever I wanted. Especially, as I wanted to investigate my San Diego 3700+ acting a bit weird on mem controller side. So I wanted to play on air anyways...
So, I spent like 1.5hrs removing seal string of the mobo (pain in the a$$ but can be done) and replace it with two layers of liquid electrical tape. I used it before to paint areas not covered by seal string but this time I decided to use it instead of it. i left the mosfet unpainted as it gets kind of warm during operation.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34519&stc=1

It doesn't look pretty on that photo but i couldn;t get a good one since the layer is very reflective. Next step is a layer of insulating tape. Upt to the level of the CPU socket.
Seal string is good but with Chily1's mounting (donut, gasket) what it does is it makes the gasket stick to it and once removed casues the gasket to be pretty damaged.
I also put some liquid electrical tape on the back of the mobo.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34521&stc=1

[Gray Mole]

ok, well my thread kinda got jacked, i know what to use on the mobo, but im asking, is it safe to use the larger dount even tho the top plate doesnt go down flush with the "disbombobulator"? and should i use seal tape on the bottom of the top plate so that i know there is a good seal between it and the donut?


Basically, if the plate doesn't sit flush against the foam, there's something wrong with the way you've put the mount together.

The plate goes onto the plastic mount, and sits on that ridge, it's what 'pushes' the evap head onto your cpu. the foam WILL be flush against the plate, or the wat you have it on there isn't right.

I'm stuck for a camera atm, or I'd show how mine fits, though I used armaflex on the backside of the plastic mount to ensure complete airtight seal, the point is the same. plate onto line, small foam ring onto line, plastic mount onto line, rubber ring on and in the slot of the evap head, push the small foam ring into the back of the plastic mount, slide the plate onto the plastic mount flush with the ridge of the mount, large foam ring onto the mount, flush with the plate.

If that is all done, your install is correct, otherwise it's not.

Gray

[NoNOthing]

well grey, i do that, and its all good, but the donut i have is very large, and it wont alow the top plate to go down flush with the plastic peice, should i shave it? look at the pics i have, the larger one is on the right in pic 2.

[Gray Mole]

Oh you've got the larger version of the small foam ring, sorry I didn't get one and am waiting for mine, so just used Armaflex to make ring for the back.

Just put the plate onto the plastic mount first, then slide it onto the small foam ring, then put the rubber ring on.

If you try to mount it that way, it's just gonna tear through the foam and find it's way onto the mount, but will likely damage the mount from not going on straight.

Just pull off the rubber ring, pull off the plastic mount, plide the plate over the foam (use a little dielectric to lube it if you have to, but should be easier without the plastic mount on) then put the plate onto the plastic mount, and push the mount back on, then install rubber ring. you should then have the large foam go flush against the plate.

That work?

Gray

[bachus_anonym]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34530&stc=1

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=34527&stc=1

Your 2nd "donut" seems a bit larger than mine. I think, once you slide it on the block and fit it flush with the bottom of the mounting plate (pic No.2, large donout goes to the right, where my is missing), it should "overhang" by about about 1-1.5". Once you bolt it down it will compress and make a tight fit with your insulation on the mobo.

EDIT: Also, check out my other photos from the thread I created when I got my unit 3 months ago - http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=59431 ;)

[NoNOthing]

ok,i just measured it, its exactl;y 1.5 inches from the bottom of the donut to the evap with the top plate flush on the plastic bit, is that ok?

[bachus_anonym]

When you look at the series of photos I posted, on 4th one (bottom right)...

From the bottom of a top plate to the bottom of the block, it's exactly 1".
If you put the gasket (donut) on it and make it fit nicely against the bottom of the plate, it should cover that 1" and still have a bit more of overhang. About 0.5" is about perfect.
If it's more, then you might gonna have to shave it off as it might prefent the block to give you perfect contact with the CPU. You just need to feel it when mounting on the CPU. If, before bolting it down you're already able to kind of compress it enough to hit the IHS of your CPU then it's should be ok...

Thing is, that for that to work perfectly over time, you need to insulate your mobo to the point when insulation (seal string or foam tape) is flat/level with CPU socket. Otherwise, a donut that is 1.5" tall might be to small...

[NoNOthing]

ok, i wil have to shave it, but what should i do it with to make a good seal? the donut isnt 1.5", its 1.5" past the evap head
=

[NoNOthing]

well, my seal tape has lost its stick, is that bad? its like, slick, will it still work as a good sealer for the donut? its been on about 2 days with nothing else on it, aside from testing hte donut on itand such

[bachus_anonym]

ok, i wil have to shave it, but what should i do it with to make a good seal? the donut isnt 1.5", its 1.5" past the evap head
=
Sharp kitchen knife should do the trick. BUT! Try it on first, kind of rehearse it :) Perhaps that 1.5" extra will be OK. Just see how it fits. If you think that you can't get a contact between the block and the CPU, then shave it off in steps - 0.5" at a time. If that 1.5" is just too much, even after it compresses, then shave it off a bit.
well, my seal tape has lost its stick, is that bad? its like, slick, will it still work as a good sealer for the donut? its been on about 2 days with nothing else on it, aside from testing hte donut on itand such
It's OK... Don't worry :)

[NoNOthing]

ok, i got it attached, i had to shave it down to about 1.5", its a good seal i think im testing it now, how long should i run JUST the PS to make sure its good?

Update1:
ok, ive got it running, and i can feel cold just outside the donut and by the caps near the ram, is that bad?

Update2:
ok.i got condernsation on the caps where i felt cold, what is the best thing to do now? i have described my entire install prossess to you guys, and done what you have told me, i used dieelec grease so im not worried about my proc. should i let it set overnight? should i take the evap off so it will warm up faster? and how can i fix the condensation? it was comming out of the top of the evap, from the bottom of the large donut

Update3:
oh, you said the seal string should be level with the cpu socket, did you mean the top of the IHS? cuz im thinking of putting another later of seal string on the mobo, becuase the one on it now lost its stickyness.

[NoNOthing]

Well, im still getting condensation on the caps near the socket, i have seal tape around the socket, and foam tape above that, and 2 layer os foam tape behind the socket...i get condensation on the foam tape behind the socket too, could someone help me? have no clue what im doing wrong, ive only done what i have been told to do here. im about to shoot this darn chilly1 system, well, sell it... i would really like to get it running, Ive taked 3 days to mod a case so that it would work, and ive taken 3 days so far trying to get no condensation... any help is apreciated...

[wdrzal]

are you using closed cell foam insulation?

PS: don't blame the chilly1 rig!!!!! if it wasn't cold you would have condesation.

[bachus_anonym]

One of the ways to fight condensation (besides insulation) is proper ventilation. Try to put a fan above in the area where you get condensation and see if it helps.

[NoNOthing]

yes, its closed cell foam, and i dont blame the system one bit, i know every single drop of water that forms if my fault :), i have fans running above it, and to the side of it, sucking air away :).

would liquid elec tape be a better bet? the only stuff i can find around here is only rated to -30*F tho, i dont know exactly what that is in C off the top of my head, butim sure its not near 55*C...would it work?

[Ssilencer]

Could you please put some pics of the insulation process?
If you get condensation over the caps, just seal them

[NoNOthing]

i would just seal them, but ive got condensation on the back of the mobo too, on top of the foam tape, i think im gonna jsut take all the foam and seal string off and go with liquid elec tape, but would some rated at -30*F be ok?

[Gray Mole]

I'm just wondering...

You're likely getting a good seal, and really sealing it up is only going to protect what's insided teh sealed area. Any condensation you get on the outside means your getting cold on the mobo itself.

Why don't you try putting more load on the cpu? Have you OC'd it yet? Upped your vcore?

When you load the cpu, it should generate enough heat to prevent the heat being taken from around the socket, and you shouldn't get as much condensation becasue your mobo won't be so cold.

Just a suggestion. What clocks are you running? What cpu? What vcore?

Gray

[Bergo]

this may seem like a stupid question, but, are you testing with the computer on or off? if there is no load on the system you are definatly going to get condensation, and lots of it. sorry if the question is silly, but, ya never know!

[boostedevo]

how long should i run JUST the PS to make sure its goodSounds like he's just running the phase unit like leak testing a WC setup. Seems to me there's a leak in the insulation one way or another...if anything, the insulation might sweat, but condensation on the board is a sign cold air is getting out, no?

[Ssilencer]

Yeap, it is imposible to not get condensation with your phase on and the the computer off. Put some load on it.
And if you are getting condensation in the back plate, just put a sheet of armaflex adhesive tape over it.
Other thing you can do is change the armaflex for a piece of neoprenne under the backplate, armaflex loose thermal insulation properties when is tightened, neoprene is more rigid and works better.

[NoNOthing]

ok, now i feel stupid, i was testing it with the compy off, i didnt want there to be any problems and kill my mobo like i did my last one, so i guess ill hope i got a good seal and fire it up and see what happens. the only thing the concerns me, is i can sometimes feel cold air near the caps that get cold/wet, could that be from just the caps being cold, cuz i cant see where air would hvae gotten out of the evap assembly

[Gray Mole]

Heheh

I had a feeling that's what was going on.

If you run DI or a Cascade, you can't help but have the mobo get cold, it's just not enough heatload to prevent it.

The only way you're gonna know for sure, is make sure you've done all you can to seal it, run it for a while, then strip it and see how much moisture is in the cpu/socket area.

I have a -50 GPU cooler, and if I run it without the card plugged in and a nice fat heatload on it, I get serious ice on the agp slot. your pcb, whether graphics or mobo, is gonna carry heat, so just try it out, I think you'll be happy :D

Gray

[Ssilencer]

You will feel more than just cold air if you not get your computer running...
Thats why we made the phase controllers, geting the phase system running without any load is one of the ways to kill your hardware.
This is active cooling, you cannot try it without any load, or you will get a big chunk of ice.

[sin0822]

Also if your realyl paranoid, try some PCb laquer spray, you could spreay it everywhere but he socket and do it many times and get that extra layer if you get a drop of water. Just a thought

[NoNOthing]

ok, well, i was about to fire it up, all components are in the mobo, but when i hit the poer button, all i get is the little flash of fans and then everrythign is off, i cant think what is wrong for the life of me, im running a DFI NF3, an X800 pro, PDP /w XBL 2x512, and a sandy 4000+


i try to start it at -20*C

[Ssilencer]

You had run your phase system without power on your computer, so maybe you have a drop of water over the mobo, check that and use a hair dryer over it for 5 minutes, and try again.

Edit: did you check if your evap had a good contact with your processor?

[sin0822]

did you test hte system before installing the phase?