CPU evaporator? Wierd sorta idea.

[n00b 0f l337]

I just had a wierd sorta idea. Probably extremely dumb, but just wanted to share my idiocies.

Now would it be possible to build the evaporator on top of the IHS. Like, an evaporator block of normal but the bottom of the evaporator IS the IHS of your cpu?

So sorta like making a topless evaporator and then flipping it onto your IHS?

[_HL4E_HalfLife_]

I just had a wierd sorta idea. Probably extremely dumb, but just wanted to share my idiocies.

Now would it be possible to build the evaporator on top of the IHS. Like, an evaporator block of normal but the bottom of the evaporator IS the IHS of your cpu?

So sorta like making a topless evaporator and then flipping it onto your IHS?


:slap: :slap: Try it if u want but i don't think ur cpu will like 3000 degrees. :nono: :nono: :eek:

[n00b 0f l337]

I don't mean braze on your cpu, but find someway to attach the block or on older cpu's remove the IHS, braze, re-attach.

[Mr. Tinker]

I've pondered that. How are you going to do that on you P4, noob?

[Cr@sh_D1n3r]

lmao why don't just just remove the heat spreader?!?!

[n00b 0f l337]

Different then removing IHS. Cause this would remove the must to get your copper cooled down, so lower pulldowns, and less material to be cooling. More direct in other words. I don't know how I'd do it, but if you could make like a suction seal of copper to the IHS.....

[CrimeDog]

surface area?

[eshbach]

:rofl: why not just remove the IHS and seal the evap direclty to the pcb of the cpu package so that the refrigerant boils direclty on the cpu core :bounces:

[n00b 0f l337]

Cause I dunno but I think that would destroy the core. i dunno if your being sarcastic though from all the smileys.....

[labrat23]

I think there wouldnt be enough surface area. If you wanted something close to what you are trying, you could make the base of your evap just a piece of copper sheet. That would probably be too flimsey though.

[n00b 0f l337]

Not enough surface area? if you normally make a maze you make the maze on top of the IHS....

[saratoga]

You'd get better temps by just removing the IHS and attaching the evap directly to the core. Its not going to make a huge difference though.

[|RickY|]

you need some cooper to andle the load temps and as some say for that simply remove the hs

[labrat23]

Well you get most of the surface area from the fins not the base of the evap. The inch square above the ihs simply isnt enough.

[JSU]

zenzovap has done that over at pimprig. his temps were better but they were unstable......

[gloatlizard]

i don't know what is the right name in english but you can use a lot of cold solderin' paste

[Mr. Tinker]

WAIT! N00B! I got it! I got it! Here's how you can attach a CPU directly to an evap/block:

you'd have to grind a bit of the cpu retention socket away (pic 1), then you'd have a block with an inner bevel (pic 2) that has three permanent sides that slip on to the cpu, and a 4th that screws on (pic 3). You'd have to use something like JB weld to make the seal tight and it would be permanent, but it might work.

Edit: I forgot you were socket 775.

[gkiing]

lmao why don't just just remove the heat spreader?!?!

This is the way to go :rolleyes:

[wdrzal]

why not just put the whole chip inside a evap?

[Mr. Tinker]

why not just put the whole chip inside a evap?
Are you kidding? how would that interface witht the socket?

[total_assault]

noob I've seen about 15 posts of yours with these extremely weird ideas, I think you need to calm down make one with basic concepts and be happy with it :stick:

[Jack]

like |Ricky| said, you need the copper mass for load variation handling.
The mass gives you capacity and prevents temp. fluctuations.

[Mr. Tinker]

noob I've seen about 15 posts of yours with these extremely weird ideas, I think you need to calm down make one with basic concepts and be happy with it :stick:
Yeah, everyone listen up: Don't even try to come up with new ideas. Let's just stick with the status quo, boys. That's really the best plan.

[n00b 0f l337]

If we stick with the same ideas then our single stages are all the same and such. Only new ideas can hope to bring improvement. And I only post about 1/5 of my ideas. The erally good ones dont go to the forums.

[Ssilencer]

Well, but this "idea" is not new, it was discussed more than one time here, you can check it.
"The best plan" is "cook" your idea before posting it, and search the forums too.
It's all ok with you guys, I'm just sharing my idea :D

[n00b 0f l337]

Yeah I searched for IHS Evap and such and came up with nothing, I also "cooked" my idea with a few others.

[total_assault]

Yeah, everyone listen up: Don't even try to come up with new ideas. Let's just stick with the status quo, boys. That's really the best plan.

If we stick with the same ideas then our single stages are all the same and such. Only new ideas can hope to bring improvement. And I only post about 1/5 of my ideas. The erally good ones dont go to the forums.

Well some of these ideas shall I make an understatement are pre-mature?. How thick is the IHS 2 mm, how is that thick enough to be the base of the evap? I am not saying don't come up with any ideas and putting a plug on the creative process, I am saying I would think it would be a good idea for you noob to make a single stage with basic concepts so you can see whats possible and whats not. You can read all you want on this forum, but when you actually get to work you will see what is what.

-Thanks Paul

[n00b 0f l337]

I've been working on my single stage for a while, it'll be done soon enough. ;)

[Holst]

Obviously this wont work... you would NEVER get a acceptable seal without soldering.

If you want to see something similar... but watercooled.

Look up direct die watercooling and check out www.spodesabode.co.uk

keep posting your ideas Noob, you know that they love to reply and correct your errors :D

[Mr. Tinker]

How thick is the IHS 2 mm
It's way thinner than that. There's no harm in exploring new ideas. You just can't know everything about everything, even when there seems to be an established bas of konwledge on a subject.

[total_assault]

Obviously this wont work... you would NEVER get a acceptable seal without soldering.

If you want to see something similar... but watercooled.

Look up direct die watercooling and check out www.spodesabode.co.uk

keep posting your ideas Noob, you know that they love to reply and correct your errors :D
This is the first time I said anything to comment on Noob's ideas I usually think about them and say maybe he just needs to think it out more, the ihs is 2 mm look through the ihs removal threads. What i was say about learning from experince is the ihs being 2 mm will prolly warp when you take a torch to it. I was not discouraging anyone from posting future ideas just saying this might be a bad one. :fact:

[wdrzal]

Are you kidding? how would that interface witht the socket?


no, I'm not kidding, just extend the gold pins thru the evap, then just plug it in as you normally do.

[saratoga]

no, I'm not kidding, just extend the gold pins thru the evap, then just plug it in as you normally do.

Thats a pretty cool idea.

How would you extend the pins through the evap wall though? You couldn't use solder and that would short them out. Maybe some sort of nonconductive resin?

[wdrzal]

if the chip is inside,the whole evap could be non coductive

[stockhatch]

Im not following your thought process there walt. It sounds interesting, but Im like the others...how are you going to get the pins through the evap without shorting them? Can you draw a diagram?(Im all about some diagrams :D )

[wdrzal]

mold them in a ceramic or resin, let me ask you a question, how does the power get to the motor inside the compressor housing without shorting or leaking?

[stockhatch]

mold them in a ceramic or resin, let me ask you a question, how does the power get to the motor inside the compressor housing without shorting or leaking?

Some sort of insulator like you just mentioned I would imagine :) Even so, fabricating something like that would be pretty difficult for us diy peeps. Cool idea though for sure.

[cadaveca]

mold them in a ceramic or resin, let me ask you a question, how does the power get to the motor inside the compressor housing without shorting or leaking?
like a ceramic ct479...you just need a pin extender.