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View Full Version : 6800le 'Black Screen' - The Complete Guide: Identification, modification and reason



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SikaRippa
04-13-2005, 01:44 PM
Geforce 6800(le) - 'Black Screen' version 2.2

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Hopefully the final release !

Many measurement results added:
- ESR-measurements fully explained
- Oscilloscope fotos of AC-current/voltage

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FAQ:

Q0. What is 'Black Screen'?
A0: Freezing the computer (=black screen) when under a heavy load (3d-graphics activity). This is very usual 'feature' of some type Geforce 6800le or 6800 cards. If you are not sure whether you have encountered 'black screen' please read Chapter 2.

Q1: What can I do to overcome this problem ???
A1: If ever possible RMA your card !!!! In the case this is not possible the best and easiest way is to do 'Enhanced capacitor modification'. For details take a look Chapter 3, but all information you propably need can be found Figure below:

http://img69.echo.cx/img69/4061/capmod35gz.th.jpg (http://img69.echo.cx/my.php?image=capmod35gz.jpg)


Q2: My card card cannot be modified using 'Enhanced capacitor modification', anything else I can try ?
A2: Some cases replacing the capacitors with GOOD capacitors has removed BS (see figure below, details in Ch. 3.3)

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/2959/capmodu1b1qs.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=capmodu1b1qs.jpg)


Q3: Want help me to make this document better ??
A3: See most wanted list at the end of the document. Especially I request information about cards NOT mentioned (models/versions) having 'Black screen'. If you such have a 'Black screen' please post following information:
- Exact model/manufacturer/version of your card
- Estimate how long it took before the black screen occured first time
- Capacitor labels for C136 and C143 (green labels, e.g "4 8 470 6E"), see Chapter 2.2 for details


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1. Introduction

There is a well known, unfamous, feature called 'Black Screen' related to Geforce 6800(le), GF6800XT or GF6800 graphic cards. This feature means freezing the computer (=black screen) when under a heavy load (3d-graphics activity). I wonder that first good source of information about this feature was a thread in Gainward Forum, but now *them* have removed the link (pity) [1]. The only way restoring the computer is shuting power off/on again. The purpose of this document is:

- When finished, gather/provide all relevant information about this feature (later BS)
- Help to indentify which cards/models/brands are affected
- Give solutions to reduce or remove BS e.g. a new VERY easy and electrically optimal way to make the capacitor modification is presented
- Try to give a reason why BS is occured (a new theory about reason is provided)

My motivation to write is document is only curiosity and fact that I have not found a complete document about BS. The information is scattered all over the forums and I found it very difficult to figure out the whole problem. I an only a-poor-(lonesome)-GW600LE-owner and have anything relations to Gainward (later GW). However, if some member of the GW's design team will read this document it would *very* nice to comment wheather my theory about reasons lead to BS are correct (I am sure that there ARE someone in this planet that know the real reason for BS).

I emphasize that I DO not take any responsibility of making mods suggested here or wheather the information given is fully correct. This especially case with the theory about reason of BS.



2. How to identify a BS-affected card


2.1 Software methods

BS-feature is a little bit tricky to test - sometimes it comes immediately, other day it can take minutes (hours?). Anaway it is triggered when under a high 3D-graphic load caused by SOME programs, usually games. The programs that are known to cause BS are:

- Half-life 2
- Counter-Strike Source
- Doom 3
- Far Cry
- Neverwinter Nights
- FlatOut
- WoW Beta
- Medal of Honor: Pacific Assault
- Blood Rayne II demo
- 3Dmark05
- SkiAlpin Demo 2005
- GTA San Andreas
- F.E.A.R
- Oblivion

.. to name some. A 'standard' BS-test can be performed easily with 'SkiAlpin Demo 2005', since it can be downloaded free [2]. After installing demo make following test procedure (yes, I it is German but it can be easily used even knowing a single word of German..):

1. Set 'vsync = off' at the preferences of the graphic card
2. Launch the 'SkiAlpin Demo 2005'
3. Try to have ski experience all way down - if you success without BS your card is not LIKELY affected by BS

It should be noted this does not give 100 % reliability, it has been stated that cards having BS-feature can pass this test (Finnish language ![3]). But it have been tested that most of the BS-cards fail this test, and it provides an easy way to test because BS-card fails usually very quickly. In order to make things even more complex the occurance of the BS depends many other factor i.e. operating system, power etc. (see later on this document). I has been reported that F.E.A.R (demo) is even better test program i.e. some card not giving BS with 'SkiAlpin' give BS when testing F.E.A.R

2.2 Visual inspection

There are several cards/versions/brands that are affected by BS. Some versions of the cards make BS immediately, but other can stand several months without a single BS. This makes this feature very complex and inconvenient: one can have a BS-affected card 'sleeping' or waiting the warranty time ending - and can start to make BS in future ! Therefore, I would be advantageous all users that might have potentially risky card to make a short inspection about card model/version/vendor. The studing of the card is also usefull for those who (like me..) want to find final reason why some cards are affected. Thus, I kindly ask if someone could help to get answers for questios listed at the end of this document.

Following list of the (known) affected cards is based on my investigation about the reports posted by the users.
One aspect of identifying a affected card is careful investigation of the top side capacitors ! This is explained in detailed below, but my theory about affected cards is based on differences of the capacitors. Below is a figure partly shown the top part of the GF6800 reference card. The interesting capacitors are marked with 'C141', 'C136' and 'C143'. In my theory if capacitors 'C136' and 'C143' have marking codes listed below they are potentially BS-affected ! Capacitor 'C141' has also be varied between cards, but I suppose it does not have major impact to the performance (!?).



Capacitors C136 and C143

Finally I discovered the manufacturer and type of those green labelled 'C136' and 'C143' capacitors. Following information is added to verion 1.7 of this document, so there can be several wrong or unclear details here and there in this document.

These capacitors are electrolytic capacitors with hybrid cathode electrolyte (CV-EX -series) from Sanyo. Datasheet for those capacitors can be found here [13]. The datasheet is not very informative i.e. the marking codes are not explained and therefore I made a mistake (version 1.8) when interprepting markings. I REALLY hope that this information is now correct:

- Voltage rating of 6.3 V !!
- Capacitance value 470 uF
- ESR value (max) 25 mOhm (milliohms)
- Ripple current 2090 mA
- Number 'X X' in marking code e.g. "X X 470 6E" should be lot number (usually first one is '4')

Using this information the specification for 'Ultimate capacitor modification' can be easily derivied (see chapter 3.3).

Why these capacitors would fail ? Sanyo is usually (!?) manufacturing high quality capacitors, and therefore it is quite wierd that these are not working very well. There is a comparison between different aluminium electrolytic capacitors (liquid, solid, hybrid) and their benefits and drawbacks [8]. The benefit of hybrid electrolytics is low cost at given ESR and capacitance values. Main drawback is wear out i.e. failure in long term especially at high temperatures. Good news (!) with these capacitors is that the failure mode is open i.e. even having completely 'dead' capacitor no short circuit is appeared (card can possibly be repaired by replacing capacitors). More detail about electrical characteristics are considered in other chapters.
When writing version 2.0 of this document I am fully convinced that there are versions of this card that have been altered a little bit (see Ch. 3.4). This means that these models/version are working more reliable (no BS), even when having these 'green caps'. But I am convinced that some of these capacitors ARE more poor quality, and it has been shown that the BS-problem can be removed by changing those to better capacitors (Ch 3.3). In addition to those effect, at time ofwriting version 2.1 of this document I found that a reason for 'poor quality capacitors' can be 'RoHs-compliance' (see Ch 4).



http://img106.exs.cx/img106/7294/fig12ks.th.jpg (http://img106.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img106&image=fig12ks.jpg)
Figure 1. 6800 Reference board top, important components marked

It is noteworthy to see that there are several versions for the Nvidia reference card. Below are show three different version: one having CV-EX -capacitors, second have 'unknown' capacitors and third have Sanyo SVP-capacitors.
Why they have recently (I found these images when witing version 2.0) changed the capacitor model ?

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/3599/nv68000x19pr.th.jpg (http://img355.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nv68000x19pr.jpg)
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7045/nv68001x12zc.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nv68001x12zc.jpg)
http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/6826/nv68002x15ae.th.jpg (http://img206.imageshack.us/my.php?image=nv68002x15ae.jpg)

Figure 2. Three different versions of the Nvidia reference cards (GF6800)




The cards that have not been affected have different markings (see figure below) like "4 2 470 6E" or even different capacitors (BGF 6800).


http://img75.exs.cx/img75/2095/fig28dw.th.jpg (http://img75.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img75&image=fig28dw.jpg)
Figure 3. Examples of 6800-cards, that not affected by 'Black Screen' (BFG6800, GW6800 and MSI GF6800)


Capacitor cross-reference


Below are listed the markings found in capacitors 'C136' and 'C143' within different 6800/6800nu/6800le cards. There is also a short explanation about what kind of BS-performance has been reported when having these capacitors.

"4 2 470 6E" - USUALLY no BS (ONE BS-case with PNY 6800 not le !!) (MSI, GW, 6800-cards),
"4 3 470 6E" - usually BS even when new (MSI, GW)
"4 4 470 6E" - no BS when new, BS after some months (GW6800le-card from RMA,XFX)
"4 6 470 6E" - can give BS when new (at least in one case) (MSI)
"4 7 470 6E" - no BS when new, BS after some months (at least some cases) (GW, Leadtek)
"4 8 470 6E" - usually no BS when new, BS after some months (MSI, GW)
"4 9 470 6E" - BS after some months ? (MSI)



Gainward

Most (?) of affected cards are manufactured by Gainward (GW). It is 99.9 % sure that there are several versions of the GW's 6800le-card and at least two that are BS-affected. Below can be found figures of the these cards that I have labeled 'version 1' and 'version 2' (see Figs. 3 and 4)

These cards look like quite same - only some components seems to be changed (see below for detailed analyze). Both cards have code of 'P64210AIP0B4", barcode of "471846200-6220", but versions 1 and 2 have manufacturing labels of 'Made in Taiwan' and 'Made in China', respectively. The main difference between these cards (in respect of BS) is that 'version 1' usually makes (made) BS right away, but 'version 2' can stand some months before the first BS. There are different capacitor markings "4 3 470 6E" for those cards "4 8 470 6E" (see figure below), which indicates that capacitors are coming from different manufactiring lot (see end of this document).
I wonder that there should GW 6800le-card that is different that explained above (even many different versions?)). I have seen some figures about GW 6800le-card having different cooler etc. , but I have not found any user report about BS-performance of this card (please post if you have any information !)

http://img106.exs.cx/img106/2677/fig36qf.th.jpg (http://img106.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img106&image=fig36qf.jpg)
Figure 4. Gainward 6800le version 1

http://img87.exs.cx/img87/770/fig44mb.th.jpg (http://img87.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img87&image=fig44mb.jpg)
Figure 5. Gainward 6800le version 2


After writing the first version I have obtained information about cards got from 'RMA'. Two cards have been reported to have capcitor markings of "4 4 470 6E" and "4 7 470 6E". See below for details differences between this model and the two 'old' versions. I also got opportunity to make electrical measurements with "4 7 470 6E" (!!!) see 'Measurement results", where can be seen that this IS really a different version of 6800le-card (some different components compared to BS-card, see Ch. 5.6). Photographs for this models are shown below.


http://img250.echo.cx/img250/4567/gw6800v1b4ni.th.jpg (http://img250.echo.cx/my.php?image=gw6800v1b4ni.jpg)
Figure 6. Gainward 6800le version 1b


Cross reference for GW-cards:

| Labels of C136 & C143 | Made in xxx | OK-Sticker | "Code 1" | "Code 3" | Version (1) | BS/Non-BS
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| "4 3 470 6E" | Taiwan | QC-2 OK | 'missing' | G04xxxxxxx | 1 | BS ASAP
| "4 4 470 6E" | Taiwan | QC-2 OK | 'missing' | G04xxxxxxx | 1/1b (?) | BS ASAP or Non-BS ~ half year (?)
| "4 5 470 6E" | Taiwan | OK-29 | 'missing ? | G04xxxxxxx ? | 1b | BS ASAP/after few months
| "4 7 470 6E" | China | OK-188/OK-34 (3) |GW584xxxxxxx | B04xxxxxxx | 1b | Non-BS so far ??? (2)(4)
| "4 8 470 6E" | China | OK-162/OK-66 (3) |GW684xxxxxxx | B04xxxxxxx | 2 | BS after few months
| "4 9 470 6E" | China | OK-64 |CW7xxxxxxxxx | B04xxxxxxx | 1b | Non-BS so far ??? (2)


(1) Version numbering does not indicate any codes of the cards, but given by me (!)
(2) No BS-feature using standard clock frequencies at least during some months
(3) Codes varies (please post different numbers and 'features' with those models/versions)
(4) A single case of BS reported. Please post if you have "4 7 470 6E" card that is BS-affected !!

A figure for helping to identify GW6800le-cards is shown below. The most easy way to identify card is to look label of capacitors (C136 or C143) and code-labels.
http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5371/gw6800leindentification18ry.th.jpg (http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gw6800leindentification18ry.jpg)
Figure 7. Gainward 6800le version identification

Gainward has also a 'double-fan' version of the 6800/68000le-cards. I found nice fotos of that card (see below) and it can been easily noticed used capacitors "4 3 470 6E". Since all other cards having these capacitors are BS-affected, it is possible/likely to have BS-features also with this model. Please, post if you have any extra information about this model.


http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/7694/gw6800dfx25zl.th.jpg (http://img355.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gw6800dfx25zl.jpg)
Figure 8. Gainward 6800 'double-fan'


MSI


There are also two MSI-versions of card which are affected and these have capacitor marking for 'c136' of "4 3 470 6E" "4 8 470 6E" just like Gainward. The BS-performance of those cards has been reported to be identical to Gainward i.e. card having "4 3 470 6E" capacitors is usually BS-affected very soon. MSI have also a version having capacitor markings of "4 9 470 6E", and this is also affected (AFAIK).
It has been found that MSI-cards (at least version "4 3 470 6E" !!) are the most hardest to fix with capacitor modifications. I suppose the reason is different values in the feedback path of the swithing regulator (see Ch. 3.4). Some users have reported that even after replaced capacitors ("Ultimate capacitor modification") the memory overclocking capability remains quite low level, say 750 MHz. In order to have better (overclocking) performance the feedback components could be changed, see Ch 3.4.

http://img250.echo.cx/img250/1121/msi6800lev14qv.th.jpg (http://img250.echo.cx/my.php?image=msi6800lev14qv.jpg)
Figure 9. MSI6800le version 1, having "4 3 470 6E"-capacitors


http://img356.imageshack.us/img356/9587/msi6800lev16ip.th.jpg (http://img356.imageshack.us/my.php?image=msi6800lev16ip.jpg)
Figure 10. MSI6800le version 2, having "4 9 470 6E"-capacitors (?)

MSI has also a 'repaired' version of 6800le-card. These cards have been obtained (at least in Finland) when RMA'ing BS-affected card to resellers. A fotographs of the 'repaired' MSI-card are shown below (credits for 'TuskaMies):

http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/1971/dsc035642sd6il.th.jpg (http://img381.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc035642sd6il.jpg)
http://img381.imageshack.us/img381/759/dsc035705hq1yl.th.jpg (http://img381.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsc035705hq1yl.jpg)

Figure 11. MSI6800le 'repaired afterwards by manufacturer'

The reason I think this version is 'repaired afterwards by manufacturer' is poor/different soldering of C136/C143 capacitors (can be 'clearly' seen the zoomed foto). Therefore, I suppose these cards are returned (RMA'd) to MSI and 'green' CV-EX capacitors have been replaced with 'purple' SVP-capacitors. SVP-capacitors have MUCH better electrical performance these cards should be lower propability to give 'black screen. However, It can been reported (credits for 'xan') that even this version CAN GIVE BS in some cases!! I think that is due to feedback component values (Ch. 3.4) and/or 'RoHs-issues' (Ch. 4.1)

Leadtek

A few Leadtek 6800-cards have been reported to be BS-affected:

- 6800nu using "4 9 470 6E"-capacitors
- 6800le using "4 6 470 6E" or "4 7 470 6E"-capacitors

Many Leadtek card having "4 2 470 6E"-capacitors have some different issues like freezing, but no BS (?). Leadtek cards are using the same PCB and a fotograph of the 6800-card is shown below.

http://img355.imageshack.us/img355/2499/leadtek6800x14cf.th.jpg (http://img355.imageshack.us/my.php?image=leadtek6800x14cf.jpg)
Figure 12. Leadtek 6800-card


XFX

At least one XFX 6800le-card has been reported to be BS-affected, capacitor markings are not yet known (see figure below, too low quality). Please post if any extra information about XFX6800le-cards. The reason why I am VERY interesting about XFX-cards can be seen figure below, where is shown two versions of this card. It can be easily seen that these capacitors (c136, c143) HAVE BEEN CHANGED FOR THIS SECOND VERSION !!!. The zoomed foto shows that capacitor values has been increased 470 uF -> 560 uF and a good brand has been selected [12]. These capacitors have ALL features that would be advantageous in this purpose. Any ideas WHY XFX has changed these capacitors for the second model :D ? See chapter 'Ultimate capacitor modification' for details. In the time of writing version 2.1 of this document I was told that also 'version 2' of XFX6800le-card might have been BS-affected (at least one reported case by inspire'). Since, this card was fixed by replacing those capacitors the origin of the problem was the same. I wonder the reason why the (high quality SVP-capacitors) were ruined so quickly has to be related to RoHs-issues (see Chapter 4).

It has also reported that some XFX 6800XT-cards are BS-affected. These cards (GF6800XT) are almost identical to version 6800le-cards i.e. those have Sanyo SVP-capacitors for C136 and C143.

http://img194.echo.cx/img194/9025/xfx6800lev1v26ky.th.jpg (http://img194.echo.cx/my.php?image=xfx6800lev1v26ky.jpg)
Figure 13. XFX 6800le version 1 and version 2


PNY

A PNY 6800 card having "4 2 470 6E"-capacitors. A fotograph of the PNY 6800-card is shown below.

http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/8347/pny6800newold2us.th.jpg (http://img185.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pny6800newold2us.jpg)
Figure 14. PNY 6800-card

Sparkle

Sparkle 6800le/nu cards (at least some) have also been reported to be BS-affected. Credits 'xotoy' for providing foto of 6800le-card having "4 5 470 6E"-capacitors. Please, post if/when you have additional information about Sparkle-cards !

http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/5435/sparkle6800lexotoy1ci.th.jpg (http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?image=sparkle6800lexotoy1ci.jpg)
Figure 15. Sparkle 6800le (BS-affected)

Aopen

Aopen "aeolus" 6800le cards have also been reported to be BS-affected. Credits 'jmoron' for providing foto of 6800le-card having "4 3 470 6E"-capacitors. Please, post if/when you have additional information about Aopen-cards !

http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/3485/aopen6800jmoron4xo.th.jpg (http://img234.imageshack.us/my.php?image=aopen6800jmoron4xo.jpg)
Figure 16. Aopen 6800le (BS-affected)

However, Aopen has also model (models?) that is not BS-affected at least not very soon. Credits 'sunn' for providing foto of that model (see below).
http://img235.imageshack.us/img235/1423/aopen6800lesunn9vf.th.jpg (http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?image=aopen6800lesunn9vf.jpg)
Figure 17. Aopen 6800le (not BS-affected at least soon)


AXLE

AXLE 6800XT AGP card with "4 0 470 6E" has reported to be BS-affected. This is quite rare model, so it is not (yet) known whether all AXLE card are BS-affected.

OEM

The very first Geforce GF6800le-cards were so called OEM cards. As far as I know several manufacturers were produced those cards and some were BS-affected. At least a card made by 'Point-of-view' has been BS-affected. These cards usually (?) look like Nvidia-reference cards (see above, the first card having 'green capacitors')


Other brands

Very little information available. I have found some people complaining 'mystery' problems, hangs etc. with various 6800le-cards. It is impossible/hard to know which are BS-features. I suppose that at least some eVGA -cards are BS affected.

Please post if you have any detailed information (model/version/figure) about BS-features within these brands.



2.3 Listening noisy audio

This method sounds quite wierd, but the more I have been playing with this problem the more sure I am that mysterius sound/audio generated by 6800le-card is related to BS-problem. In order to test whether you have encounter this issue see chapter 5.4 for details. I considered that noisy audio is generated by oscillating switching regulator, and having such case makes the card more vulnerable to rapid deterioration of filtering capacitors (=could finally lead to BS). Therefore, I suggest detecting 'noisy audio' is warning signal: the card is going to give BS some day !


3. Solutions to overcome BS-feature

First and also the most important hint: try to RMA your card. This IS manufacturing problem it SHOULD be handled by the manufacturer. If you can not for some reason RMA your card, you can try some advices or modification presented below. It should be emphasized that any hardware modifiaction of your card voids the warranty immediately !

Software methods

Some software tricks can lower the propability of the BS considerably. The most easiest and maybe most efficient thing is to set 'vsync=on' at graphic card properties. At least with me this has given very good results and the games that before were totally unplayable, can with this setting keep going hours. Another thing that I noticed is the effect of operating system: using windows98 the BS probability is much more lower than with windows2000. At least when testing 'SkiAlpin' the difference between OS was huge.

It has also demostrated that antialiasing and anisotropic filtering settings have some impact to BS-performace. When having better image quality (higher AA or AF values) the probability to get BS increases.

Bios

A new version for the GW6800le bios was released after users started to complain about problems. I have not myself never tested it because it has been removed for the www-page even before I got my card. I think that this bios did not help anything - if it would, why they removed it ?? It was mentioned that cache latency for the memories were changed for that bios-version.

Hardware methods

As stated earlier, these can/will void the warranty AND some skill about electronic works is required especially when soldering !! Also be carefully about ESD when handling the card !!!

3. 1 Capacitor modification

A extremely clever modification was proposed by zadah [1] (who in my opinion is responsible of almost everything relevant electrical information related to BS-problem I have found from www, thanks & kiitti paljon!). The idea of the capacitor modification is to add an extra capacitor parallel to the capacitors 'C136' and 'C143'. Excellent figures how to make this trick can be found make locations e.g the one made by zadah [4].
The test point hole 'TP1' should be connected to the positive terminal of the capacitor and the ground of the card to the negative one (important!). The capacitor should have value ~3300 uF - 10000 (microfarads), the higher value could cause problems when the power supply of the card is starting up. The voltage rating of the capacitor should be anything well above 3 V - good values between somewhere between 6.3 V - 16 V. It has been reported (and test myself) that capacitor does not need to be soldered, but it can be pull tightly into 'TP1'. In order to make this trick working one should be sure that capacitor can not 'drop' away when the computer is running (glue tape..). Another aspect is that using capacitor modification without soldering it can be hard to get good ground contact (long wires add inductance and resistance => modification is not working). One solution (have been successfully tested!) is to solder thick (rigid) copper wire additional molex-connector and bend this wire near 'TP1' to provide support for the capacitor.

Some people have been reported that capacitor modification does not help. If you encourt such problems, please go through this check-list:

- Capacitor polarity/rating/value correct
- Is it possible to test with better capacitor, good ESR-performance (ask 'low-ESR' when buing)
- Too long wires ?
- Soldering quality

3.2 Enhanced capacitor modification

I am proud of this.. when measuring the card I found that memory voltage can be found also in 'TP10' (see Figure above). I measured the resistance between 'TP1' and 'TP10' and get value ~ 0 ohms.. since 'TP9' is ground the enhanced capacitor modification was found !
Take a look figure below to see HOW easy it put a capacitor between 'TP10' and 'TP9', even the space between those nodes is ideal. I think that 10 years child can stick a capacitor into those nodes. After I found that out it took me 2 minutes to make this modification, and it worked without soldering !!
Getting even better.., this point 'TP10' is located EXACTLY were it should be: near the inductor and MOSFET's. This improves the effect of the capacitor modification due to lower resistance and inductance of added capacitor. One more interesting feature: one can place capacitor through the PCB, so it will be located besides the other components (nice, and VERY low inductances).
I tested this modification with two capacitors having capacitance values 1000 uF and 3300 uF - both make BS disappear even without soldering !! In order to make a robust modification, I recommended soldering the leads. As a conlusion of this modification:

- EXTEREMELY easy to install - takes less than 2 minutes (if not soldered)
- Very optimal in sense of electrical properties
=> It is likely that a card before could not be modified using old strategy, can be change to working one with this modification !!! (Now, there is a proof for this [11] !!)


http://img69.echo.cx/img69/4061/capmod35gz.th.jpg (http://img69.echo.cx/my.php?image=capmod35gz.jpg)
Figure 18. Enhanced capacitor modification

If you want to optimize to performance following criteria should be taken into account when selecting capacitor:

- SMALLER ESR spec. is BETTER e.g 0.025 ohm vs 1ohm
- SMALLER dissipation factor (tan d) spec. is BETTER
- LARGER ripple current spec. is BETTER e.g. 4 A vs 1 A

- LARGER temperature spec. is BETTER e.g 105 vs 85 C
- LARGER can size spec. is BETTER (too large can be bulky)
- LARGER voltage spec. is BETTER (too large value >25 V means large can size)


3.3 Ultimate capacitor modification


It has been reported that after making capacitor modification BS's will appear again after some months. That is most likely due to fact that the c136 and c143 capacitors getting weaker all the time and the extra capacitor can not enhance the performance enough any more. Therefore, I suggest a following modification which SHOULD remove BS forever. When writing version 2.0 this modification has been successfully tested by my some others. Please, note following things before planning to do this modification:
- This modification requires some skills of soldering and decent equipment (soldering iron)
- There is a greater risk to destroy card than with other modifications
- A VERY GOOD QUALITY CAPACITORS ARE REQUIRED e.g components should beet ALL requirements listed below

For 'fast' users I made a one page modification guide (see below), but I suggest to read all hints & warnigns before trying this modidication !!!

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/2959/capmodu1b1qs.th.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/my.php?image=capmodu1b1qs.jpg)
Figure 19. Ultimate capacitor modification



---

Here is a case study of card that I modified, Credits to 'money2' prodided the card for testing:

- A MSI version 1 card, with "4 3 470 6E" capacitors
- Both earlier proposed capacitor modifications have been tested, but not worked for a long time
- Without any modification maximum usable (=no BS) clock frequency was 420 MHz !!!
- After replacing "4 3 470 6E" with Chemi-con's PXA-capacitors (820 uF/6.3V) BS was removed !!
- A memory voltage could be raised at least to 814 MHz
- Case study confirms: A CARD EVEN VERY BAD CONDITION CAN BE REPAIRED USING THIS MODIFICATION


http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/6121/msi6800lev1top3004xk.th.jpg (http://img5.imageshack.us/my.php?image=msi6800lev1top3004xk.jpg)
http://img331.imageshack.us/img331/8940/msi6800lev1ctop3003rd.th.jpg (http://img331.imageshack.us/my.php?image=msi6800lev1ctop3003rd.jpg)
Figure 20. MSI version 1 before and after 'Ultimate capacitor modification'


---


The specification for the replacement capacitors are:

- ESR value less or equal than 30 mohm (milliohms)
- Acceptable ripple current MUCH greater that 2 A , preferred value ~ 4 A
- Voltage rating greater or equal than 4 V
Capacitance value greater that 470 uF, preferred value 1200 uF
- Prefer SOLID aluminium electrolytic capacitors instead of HYBRID or liquid

I am quite sure that many other vendors have proper capacitors and here are mentioned some:


- Chemi-con "PXA", PXH", "PXE" ( "PXE" is the best !!) [12]
- Sanyo "SVP" [14]
- Panasonic "WA" (not manufactured any more)
- NIC COMPONENTS CORP "NSP" [8]
- Vishay "94SVP"
- Hitano "EVS"

These capacitors might be extremely hard to find from electronic component shops. However, some worldwide distributors like 'Farnell' and 'Digi-key' provide those also in small quantities (postage& package cost might be quite high..).
I personally have used Chemicon's PXA-capacitors, but I think that the Sanyo SPV-series (used e.g. in the XFX-cards version 2) are also as-good-as PXA-capacitors. There are several capacitors listed in the reference that can be used ("10SVP560M" [12]). E.g. models "6SVP820M" and "4SVP1200M" should be fine. It should be noted very small ESR-value or different capacitance value might have negative impact to the stability of voltage regulator. I will later make electrical simulation to find out safe ranges for the values. This aspect is briefly considered below where the operation of the switching regulator is explained.


Hints & warnings
----------------

- Take care off ESD-protection i.e. use an antistatic wrap
- Do not use too much heat when desoldering and soldering. Excess heat may be harmfull for some components. Also try to work quite fast i.e. it is better to solder few times at short periods that heating the components for one long period.
- Avoid mechanical stress. When removing old components use solder sucking tool or the solder wick so you do not need to bend components
- Try to keep capacitors clean i.e. touching capacitors with oily finger tips (use rubber gloves if possible)
- DO NOT TOUCH capacitors cases or other components with a hot soldering iron


Modification
------------

1. Measure resistance between TP10-TP9 (optional but recommended, just for you can check any shorts (= much lower resistance) after modification)
2. Desolder capacitors c136 and 143 (green ones, having labels e.g "4 3 470 6E") using some solder sucking tool. I you find it hard to remove capacitors, You can GENTLY (!!) lift old capacitor with a little screwdriver etc. in the same time as heating leads. Do not throw these away, but please send me after comprehensive tests.
3. Remove old solder and any dirt under capacitors
4. Solder small amount of solder to solder pads beforehand (to help solder surface mount components)
5. Carefully solder capacitors
- Be sure to have correct polarity. There is usually a clear polarity marking (=colored line/segment for minus-terminal) in alauminum electrolytic capacitors like. Sanyo CV-EX and Chemicon's PXA
- Be sure not to have so called 'cold' solders (solder not completely melted during soldering)
6. Measure resistance between TP10-TP9 again. If you get totally different value i.e. almost 0 ohms there is a problem (=usually short made by solder under capacitor) somewere. In that case DO not install card, before you have fixed the problem !! In the case of short you should remove caps again and start the work again.


Since, I have done the modification myself I do not request anymore any tasks to be done (as I asked before). But if you have performed the mod, please post how did you succeeded:
- Card model
- Situation before (how bad BS)
- What capacitor you used
- Situation after (any problems?)



3.4 Modification of Switching regulator Feedback (used to be "Gainward modification"


I changed the name of this chapter, since it was found the the feedback component values of the switching regulator vary between cards i.e. this 'modification' is most likely not invented by Gainward - just copied to make the cards working OK !
There are GF6800le-cards that differs considerably from each other is respect of 'black screen' or more precisely the so called 'BS-frequency' is varying a lot. Here, BS-frequency means the maximum memory clock frequency that can be used WITHOUT getting BS at any circumstances. A typical BS-affected card has BS-frequency of LOWER that at stock (700 MHz), which can not be tolerated. However, it was found that with some cards the BS-frequency did NOT increase very much after ANY modification while the others are capable of running MUCH higher frequency, say 850 MHz.

A detailed analysis with cards has shown that the difference of the performance can be explained with different values of components at switching regulator feedback. I have measured myself component values of two different cards MSI (BS-affected) aand GW (no-yet, BS-affected) using undirect methods (see detail at end of document). Values of the Leadtek 6800le-card were measured by 'zxcv' (he also made nice exprerients by changing values and got HUGE boost to BS-frequency, see post #382).
Below are listed measured values:

1. C1=82n, C2=15n, C3=135n (Gainward 6800le version 1b)
2. C1=40n, C2=30n, C3=120n (MSI 6800le version 1, by 'money2')
3. C1=47n, C2=33n, C3=22n (Leadtek 6800le version "4 6 470 6E, by 'zxcv')
4. C1=100n, C2=10n, C3=10n (Leadtek 6800le version "4 6 470 6E, OPTIMAL NEW VALUES !!! by 'zxcv')

The capacitor labels are related figure below
http://img148.echo.cx/img148/2742/memfb17hp.th.jpg (http://img148.echo.cx/my.php?image=memfb17hp.jpg)
Figure 21. Locations for the switching regulator feedback components (memory voltage)

The difference between values is not large, BUT effect to performance is HUGE. I made some electrical simulations to test the effect of different values. The frequency responce of the switching regulator (memory part) is shown below:
http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1429/memfbsimu08sr.th.jpg (http://img259.imageshack.us/my.php?image=memfbsimu08sr.jpg)
Figure 22. Simulated frequency response of the switching regulator with different component values

Some electrical backround is required to see what is purpose of those curves, but 'the higher (stabile) gain is obtained in higher frequency the faster is response' -> larger BS-frequency.

It was found the Gainward has used this trick (changing values) afterwards, since I found a 'version 1b'-card:

- Some components are 'misaligned' (see figure below), like someone soldered by hand
- Some (all) components are 'older' that version 2 card (this can be verified by VERY carefully inspection of the the MOSFETs since there is a manufacturing week printed :D )
- 'OK' label has smaller value than with 'version 2'
- Capacitor 'c141' is the same (?) as in the first version

http://img205.echo.cx/img205/9743/gv6800lev1bv2botzoom32my.th.jpg (http://img205.echo.cx/my.php?image=gv6800lev1bv2botzoom32my.jpg)
Figure 23. A zoomed area of the Gainward 6800le version 1b and 2 (switching regulator part)

Exactly the same kind of cards were reported by others (e.g. 'jabjab'), so it is quite clear the card I tested was not faulty but a number of cards has been modified by GW.

This modification can be also tested by other users, who are suffering low BS-frequency. However, please read following precautions before perform this modification:
- Changing of small SMD (surface mount) capacitors is RISKY and DIFFICULT !!
- If you still want to do it, practice yourself with old/broken PCB
- Buy a set (several different values) of suitable size ceramic SMD capacitors
- Measure resistance above capacitors before starting to desolder !!! After soldering new capacitor you should have the same value (=different means short/near to short)
- Use the values above (C1=82n, C2=15n, C3=135n or C1=100n, C2=10n, C3=10n) as a starting point. Test performance and use trial-error procedure to find optimal values

If you intend to perform this mod do not hesitate to ask more instructions & hints, and please post the results !!!

3.5 Memory voltage modification


It has been reported that adjusting a memory voltage has some effect of BS [1]. There is mentioned that lowering voltage a little bit 2.72 V -> 2.68 would remove BS. And after adding a capacitor modification the memory voltage can be increased some amount without getting BS. This can be usefull for testing purposes e.g. when overclocking the memory clock frequency.
A memory voltage modification has been proposed [4].It is quite hard to perform, since there is quite high risk to destroy the card when soldering leads to surface mounted components
I found a different way to alter memory voltage either upwards or downwards as explained in figure below.


http://img216.echo.cx/img216/4646/vmemmod16ir.th.jpg (http://img216.echo.cx/my.php?image=vmemmod16ir.jpg)
Figure 24. Memory voltage modification

This method provides a very easy way to modify memory voltage and you can test it even without soldering the leads ! Please comment if this modification has been proposed earlier so I can give credits (I have not seen before).

3.6 Power supply


It has been found that power supply of the PC has (considerably effect of BS-feature. As a rule of thumb: 'the better power supply you have the smaller is propability to get BS'. Here, better power supply means stabile 5 V and 12 V output voltages i.e. how good current supplying capability there is in molex-connector for the VGA-card. In some case BS-feature has disappear (=less frequent) when having a dedicated molex-line for card i.e. not other device like hard disk connected into the same line. I demonstrated the effect of the power supply with two examples.

I had a poor quality power supply and got BS very easily e.g. with SkiAlpin. After I installed much better supply the BS-feature disappered with SkiAlpin (using Win98), but did not disappear completely.

When measuring current consumption of BS-affected MSI-card (by 'money2') I found that a VERY small series resistance in the molex-line ( 25 - 50 milliohm!!) due to measurement setup. This resistance lowers effective voltage for the card little bit and the effect was HUGE. I got BS almost immeadiate, while testing non-BS card there was not difference.

Therefore, I think that power supply effect can explain (partly) the different behaviour of cards when installed to different computers. The supplies have little bit different output voltage level and this might be enough to trigger BS-feature mouch more easily.


4. Theory of BS-feature

The theory is present here based on the investigations of Zadah, Bilabong. They have posted *a lot* of material and it is quite hard to figure out what was their final counclusion of 'what causes BS, and why?'. I wonder that the theory of 'over-voltage-protection of the Hynix-merories' is still most popular (last?) theory in the forums. Please post if I have miss this aspect !
Anaway, I think that a proper theory should not conflict following facts, starting very general ones and some related to BS-feature (I am quite sure about these, comments please!):

F1: Exactly same reference PCB is used for many 6800 and 6800LE cards (6800NU) e.g by Gainward, MSI, Leadtek ..
F2. These gards (6800 and 6800LE) are using *quite* similar components, (except GPU of course, which is modified by disabling some units for LE/NU)
F3. All IC's of the switching regulator powering the memories (and GPU) are identical ((?))
F4. Different Hynix-memories are utilized (at least 2, 2.2, 2.5, 2.8 ns), BUT there is no logic between 6800 and 6800LE memory utilization i.e. some memory model would cause BS
F5. Passive components (capacitors and inductors) vary considerably between cards

F6. ONLY some 6800(LE) models have BS-feature !!!
F7. Some cards have BS-feature immediately e.g. GW6800LE 'version 1'
F8. Some cards might work for a while, say ~ 2-3 months, before BS-feature appears e.g. GW6800LE 'version 2'. (I think that MSI6800LE belongs to this category ?)

Moreover, a real theory of BS should give decent answer to following questions:

Q1: Why some models give BS and while others are working perfectly ?
Q2: What is the difference between those cards ?
Q3: Why some models work for a while ?
Q4: Why Gainward did not get the second card working ?
Q5: Why the cards are working with the capacitor mod?

Quite tricky questions, or what you think ? Can you answer ? I have a theory that *might* not be correct one BUT it would give, I think decent, answers to those questions.
At first some talk about the operation of the used power supply for the memories, please skip if you do not like electronics..


RoHs-issues


One very important aspect, RoHs-compliance, related to capacitance deterioration was mentioned by 'Doctor6000'. The RoHs-compliance means a new standard of using non hazarous material in electronics manufacturing [18]. In practice (in the case of GF6800le) this means they have used a new solder which higher melting point that regular, say 260 C degrees. This has been 'proofed' by me and others, since the desoldering of the capacitors is more difficult that usually (=solder does not melt easily). However, the 'green' capacitors are NOT RoHs-compatible according datasheet !!! The practice would mean the capacitors might have been (partially) ruined when manufacturing of the cards. Moreover, that would give a 'clean' explanation why some SVP-capacitors (MSI and XFX-cards) have been ruined, althought having a proper ripple current value. Also that would explain easily why some manufacturers do not have problems at all: they do not use Rohs-compatible solders !!!


4.1 Switching power supply for memories and GPU.


ISL6534

The supply voltages for the memories and GPU in the 6800(le)-cards are generated with a swithing regulator ISL6534 [5]. I draw a simplified schematic for the most important parts of the swithing regulator shown in Fig. 11. Please, note that only RELEVANT components have been drawn and there CAN be errors (it is not so easy to re-engineer multilayer PCB ;) ). At least plenty of capacitor are missing: there are many ceramic (1u - 10u, I suppose) capacitors placed all over the board to keep the power supplies clean.
In short: ISL6534 generates pulses driving MOSFET's and the squarewave output is soften with the coil and capacitor(s). The pulsewidth of the pulses are adjusted with feedbacks from memory and GPU voltages. So, if a larger current is required the upper MOS is adjusted to conduct longer period (the frequency is fixed to 300 kHz). Please refer to datasheet for detailed information. Some important details of the regulator:

http://img121.exs.cx/img121/8189/fig78fq.th.jpg (http://img121.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img121&image=fig78fq.jpg)
Figure 25. A simplified schematic of the switching power supply of the 6800-cards (for memories and GPU)


- Power supplies for ISL6534 VCC, VCC12 (5v, 12V) are NOT taken from the MOLEX-connector, but they are coming from AGP
- GPU-voltage is generated from 12V line from MOLEX
- Memory-voltage is generated from 5V line from MOLEX (!!)

I think that the following detail is the most important when considering BS-feature:

!!! ISL6534 DO NOT HAVE HAVE OVER CURRENT SENSING CIRCUIT AT ALL !!!


,and they are using diffenent methods to protect the IC from short circuit - and I think that is a key point of BS-feature. The short-circuit protection is explained as follows [5]

"There is no current sensing or rDS(ON) sensing or Under-
Voltage sensing on the ISL6534. However, if either Channel
1 or 2 output is shorted while active, there is a simple
detection on the error amp COMP output that implies either
Over-Current or Under-Voltage; the PGOOD pin goes low
immediately. If the condition persists for 1-2 internal clock
cycles (3-6µs at 300kHz), then ALL 3 Outputs are latched
off, requiring either a VCC or VCC12 POR to restart. The
protection was not designed to work for the case of powering
up an output into a short-circuit, and there are limitations on
detecting applied shorts."

In other words 'a short' is detected if the output voltage cannot be raised to specified level during 1-2 cycles. If 'short' is detected all outputs are switched OFF i.e. shutting down the GPU and memories. This will be considerd in detail in next chapter.

APL5331

DDR-memories require a 'VTT' and 'VREF' signals as reference levels for the input and output. These nodes either sink or source current and therefore a special regulator is required. ISL6534 can be connected in such manner that it generates those voltages, but these cards utilizes linear regulator APL5331 for that purpose [6]. This is somehow important aspect since this regulator increases the loading of the memory voltage.

HYNIX-memories

I think that all 6800(LE) cards are using Hynix-memories: HY5DU283222AF-xx [7]. There are some variations about speed, some cards have AF-22 and the others AF-28 etc. but basically they are quite the same chips (?). There is a single datasheet that specifies absolute maximum rating etc. so I think that they measure the speed of the chip and sell it 2.2 ns or 2.8 ns memory depending the results (such like CPU's).
I wonder that there is NOT any overprotection circuitry within those memories, in spite of the some posts. Or at least when having voltage levels << 3 V (the absolute maximum ratings for VDD is 3.6 V !!). Moreover, the termination voltage of those memories means that the signals are TERMINATED to that voltage VDD/2, so it does NOT mean 'chip will shut down when abnormal VTT voltage is detected'. Anybody expert with memories ? Please comment !!

Feedback-loop

After investigating GW version 1b -card (which had a manufacturing fault) I found how critical it is in respect of the stability of the switching regulator. In addition to ESR of the output capaciotrs (c136 and c143) at least following components have major effect to the performance of the regulator:

- All output capacitors for memory voltage and their ESR and ESL
- Inductor
- Capacitor and resistor values at the feedback loop (these were altered for GW version 1b..)
- Load resistance !! i.e. current consumption of the memories

--

Before I found the information about Sanyo CV-EX-series capacitors, I tried to make specifications on my own.
Using the equation in the datasheet of the switching regulator [5] it can be calculated that the ESR-value of the capacitor has to match to capacitance and inductor values of the output filter. This gives relationship of

ESR < SQRT(L/C) (ESR = Effective series resistance, L = inductance, C = capacitance)

Having L = 1uH ja C = 2*470 uF = 940 uF, gives ESR < 0 .033 ohm or ESR < 0.066 ohm/each capacitor (two in parallel). This value matches quite well to datasheet value.

--

The ripple current rating is a little bit tricky. The measured value for current consumption is between 0.6 - 2.64 A for 5V molex-connector which corresponds to power of 13.2 W. Power power can be much more higher due to the limitation of the multimeter current measuring badtwidth. If it is assumed that the power taken from molex-connector in this case is mainly consumed by memories and the efficiency of the switching power is 80 %, the maximum power consumed by memories is 0.8*13.2 W = 10.56 W. This corresponds current of ~3.9A @ 2.72V (memory voltage). The maximum power consumption of single Hynix-memory is 2W, so 8*2W is 16 W for all memories. Therefore the calculated value is at least in the same magnitude.

Peak current and voltage of the switching power supply can be approximated as [5]

I(ripple) = ((Vin-Vout)/(Fs*L))(Vout/Vin) (Vin = 5V, Vout = 2.72 V, L = 1uH, Fs = 300 kHz)
Vout(ripple) = I(ripple)*ESR (ESR = 0.030 ohm per each capacitor WHEN NEW ??)

This gives an approximation of I(ripple) ~ 4.2 A . There are two capacitors (C136 and C143) in parallel at output of the switching regulator, so each capacitor has to handle current of ~ 2.1 A When comparing this value to the specifications of Sanyo CV-EX capacitors (470 uF, 6.3V, I(Ripple) = 2.09 A !!!) it can be easily seen that the ripple current rating should be proper fo this purpose. But as explained above the approximation is more likely too low so the current rating is too tight is in normal condition. In addition to the ripple current the capacitors are charged/discharged heavily as explained above (consumption measured for molex-connector changes between 0.6 - 2.64 A). Moreover, the swithing regulator is oscillating (see 5.4), which causes VERY high varying current at frequency range between 100 Hz - 1000 kHz. I have not managed so far to estimate current value due to oscillation, but while having noisy audio at the CD-rom output the current level HAS to be remarkable (I will later try to measure it). Aluminium electrolytic capacitors are NOT designed for charging and discharging frequently. These aspects might be the key elements for the reason WHY capacitors fail as a new or in same case can withstand for a some time. The excess ripple current and/or high charge/disharge of aluminium electrolytic capacitors causes [9][10][15]. In addition to ripple current effects the likely utilization of 'RoHs-compatible' solder has a considerably effect of the capacitor life i.e. the capacitors will get old/ruined instanteously during manufacturing.

- Life time decrease
- Capacitance value decrease
- Increase of ESR-value

.. which all can be easily cause power supply to fail in hard load condition -> BS.

--

I have tried to simulate operation of the switching power supply. I have used a free simulator iSim can be downloaded here [17]. The schematic example for switching regulator can be also download from there after registration. I use component values obtained methods explained Ch. 5.6. It should be noted these values are not very accurate and the obtained results gives only insight about what is happening. Moreover, a number of parasitic components (resistances, inductances, capacitances) due to PCB etc. are not included to the simulation and these could have relatively large impact to overall performance.
I have been simulating AC-response and transient for the feedback loop of the memory switching regulator. I have some preliminary indicating, that the memory part of the regulator is vulnerable to unstabile operation !! I will post result later when a more accurate values for e.g. current consumption for molex-connector is available.

It is kindly asked to somebody measure feedback components (see Ch 5.5) for BS-affected card (different to MSI), so we (I) could verify weather the component values have been altered for Gainward version 1b card.



4.2 Black Screen


Here we are..what causes black screen ? My engineering guess in one word - capacitors. I think that following happens to make the BS appear. At a starting point there is a moderate load for the graphics card (this means e.g. when you launch the 'SkiAlpin' and in menu you start the game). Suddenly, the program start to write (or read) gigantic amount of data to the memory from GPU (you start skiing in 'SkiAlpin'). The memory chips sink as much current as they can for some clock cycles. This current is taken from the capacitors 'C136' and 'C143', since the switching regulator is running at frequency of 300 kHz - memories 350 MHz (700DDR). IF there are good capacitors having a low ESR (effective series resistance) and capacitance value high enough - no problem there is plenty of charge reserved and switching regulator will start pump more current within next pulse. But if there is *something bad* with those capacitor following might happen:

1. Memory voltage drops lower level
2. ISL6534 detects 'short'
3. ISL6534 tries to increase pulse width
4. If short is not disappeared within 1-3 (?) pulse all outputs are shut down !
5. Memories and GPU lose power
6. Black screen

There is an interesting comment in the datasheet of ISL6534 [5]:

"In general, the faster the rise time of the output current
during the short, the more current will be allowed on the
initial peak, and the better chance the COMP pin will have
a sharp rise as well. A low resistance short (#4) and a
higher output voltage (#5) both help. However, if the
current ramps too fast, then a false trip is also possible
(shutting down at a current level still within the expected
load range)"

.. so when having a fast current peak (=voltage level drops rapidly) is likely that power will shut off. After the BS ISL6534 is still running (see measurement results), but all outputs are 'off', which 'defends' the theory.

Another point of view: if the BS is causes by *over voltage*, how a over voltage is generated ? I think that only way to have a overvoltage is to increase the pulsewidth for the ISL6534, but what would be the mechanism to generate such situation ?
Moreover, if the memories were shut down BEFORE ISL6534, I think that the memory voltage should remain 'up' after shut down since there is not specified a lowest current that ISL6534 can drive (the minimum pulsewidth is ~0).When debugging this problem I thought that ISL6534 could be shut down due to the poor molex-lines i.e. the power supply voltage for ISL6534 would be too noisy. Therefore I measured VCC and VCC12 and found that those voltages are NOT taken from molex-connector, but AGP-bus ! Therefore noisy molex-line (due to switching power itself) cannot cause the shutdown of ISL6534.

So, I think (=I am sure) that BS is due to ISL6534 is shutting down the outputs due to faulty detected short. Yes, I know what you are going to ask: why some cards are working ? Well.. I have been investigated *a lot* the figures of the different cards and I found that the memory capacitors of these cards are the same - or...? As stated above I found that there are three numbers printed with green on the top of those capacitors like "4 3 470 6E". The middle value is capacitance in microfarads and '6E' stands for 6.3 V (I think so), but .. the first row has to means a lot number. This is not 100 % sure since I have not found the manufacturer (and datasheet) for those capacitors, but usually there is a lot number with that kind of capacitors. I found that BS-cards have certain lot numbers e.g. GW6800LE V1 "4 3". And more interesting thing two BS-cards from different manufactures have the same number like GW6800LE V2 and MSI6800LE "4 8".
Moreover, I have not seen any 6800(LE) other card (than BS-featured) with that lot number. Has there been a 'little' problem with those lots ??? I believe, yes. A lot means a large batch of components etc. manufactured in the same time, using the same materials, manufactured in the same factory etc. , so different lots can be totally different ! This application is very sensitive to following parameters:

- ESR (effective series resistance) since it determines the maximum available peak current
- Capacitance value (=how long capacitor can provide current, before voltage level drops certain amount)
- Response of the feedback loop (see Ch 3.4 above)

These kind of capacitors (aluminium electrolytic capacitor) are not so easy to manufacture and they are vulnerable to many aspect like: soldering, ripple current, temperature etc. Therefore, it is not unlikely that when buing such capacitors as-cheap-as-possible you can get very bad capacitors. I suppose that these lots "4 3" and "4 8" get somehow ruined - but it was not detected (or informed!!!). The first lot was totally bad since the cards having those capacitors made BS-immediately. Afterwards, manufactured (=Sanyo) fixed something with "4 8" and the cards might work even 3 months ! What can be wrong with those capacitors ? I think the initial capacitor values has to be correct - that would certainly be detected. Large ESR-value is harder to measure, and therefore that could be the reason the first GW-gards failed: capacitor are not capable to provide required current. The second lot "4 8" usually is working at first, so maybe they found the high ESR-value and did something;). However, the quality of the capacitors is so low that that something happens again when time goes on. A nice diagram about aluminium electrolytic capacitor failure mechanism can be found here [9]. As you can see almost anything can be happened e.g. if the ripple-current exceeds the nominal value.

A very interesting aspect about temperature effect was reported in this same thread (see posts #3, #6, #7, Thank you ZeroHero !). It was found that by cooling the ambient of the card ~ 10 degrees causes immediately BS under suitable conditions. This phenomena can be caused by many factors e.g. cooling of the switching transistors. However, the on-resistance of the transistors reduces when temperature is lower and the operation of the switching power should be better ! On the other hand the ESR-value of the aluminium electrolytic capacitors INCREASES when temperature REDUCES, which LOWERS the performance of the switching power supply (See another document about the aluminium electrolytic capacitors if you are very interested [10].). In order to make this even more complex the higher resistance (ESR) causes higher voltage drop over capacitor and in the same time the power 'burn' in the resistor increases, which increases the temperature (would be nice to make electrical model for this :D ).


This theory might be possible to proof by measuring those capacitor very accurately. This would require removing a capacitor from PCB and using a high performance inpedance meter. I am voluteer to make those measurements if someone has totally burn card and he/she is willing to provide those capacitors (either BS or non-BS cards). Please post or send a private message, so we could think how to arrange this. This would also be useful in sense of finding the final failure mechanism of those cards: will it be a short (very bad !!!) or open. In the version 2.2 this has been proofed (=measured high value of ESR), see the and of the document for measurement results.


4.3 Answers for those questions


Using proposed theory *some kind of * answers can be given:

Q1,Q2: They have poor capacitors for another manufacturing lot !
Q3,Q4: Those capacitors get *old* very quickly - some parameters (ESR or capacitance) deteriorate by temperature/ripple-current etc. But when they are new no-one cannot find anything bad !
Q5: Adding a parallel capacitor, 'overrides' the bad one - it provides enough current when high ripple current is drawn by memories


5. Measurement results

I measured several parameters from the unmodified 'GW6800le version 2'. After I got oppotunity to measure version 1B card and I performed all measurements again (!) I list below all results, some of these are not so relevant but maybe someone can use those values e.g. for debugging some other problem (?). The locations of the testpoints are shown in Fig. 13, which make it more easy to locate them when measuring a running PC. Please note the locations for TP5 and TP6 ! Those TP's were changed in the first versions of this document (1.0 - 1.6), but now tables and figure below should be ok..

http://img148.echo.cx/img148/3621/6800tps28bf.th.jpg (http://img148.echo.cx/my.php?image=6800tps28bf.jpg)
Figure 26. Test point and "PHASE"-node locations in the 6800(le)-card (bottom side of PCB).

5.1 DC-current

I measured DC-current consumption of the 5V and 12 V Molex-lines for the card. The lines provides most of the power for the card, so measuring these gives a good approximate about loading state of the card. It should be noted that these measurements are not very accurate, since the current level was changing rapidly. Therefore I provide a maximum value that I could read.

DC-current [A], vsync = off

'Version 2'

case | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
5V | 0.60 | 0.79 | 1.68 | 2.28 | 0.97 | 1.90 | 2.64 | 2.36 |
12V | 0.79 | 1.13 | 1.33 | 1.30 | 1.18 | 1.29 | 1.60 | 1.52 |



Please note that these values are BAD due to manufacturing bug !! (see text) 'Version 1B" (higher values due to higher voltage levels!!)


case | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 | 8 |
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
5V | 0.94 | 1.18 | 1.50 | 2.50 | 1.90 | 2.50 | 2.89 | 3.23 |
12V | 0.89 | 1.26 | 1.33 | 1.44 | 1.50 | 1.45 | 1.68 | 1.74 |


1. Boot
2. Idle (win98)
3. SkiAlpin -demo (main menu, win98)
4. SkiAlpin -demo (in game, win98) -> no BS
5. SkiAlpin -demo (main menu, win2000)
6. SkiAlpin -demo (in game, win2000) -> BS (for version 2)
7. 3dmark03 (Game test 1)
8. AquaMark03

It can be seen that BS occured at moderate or not maximum power level (only with version 2!), which indicates the power fails rapid increase of current not heavy but stable load.


5.2 DC-voltage


I measured Voltage from TP1 - TP14 and the 5V and 12 V Molex-lines for the card before and after BS-occured.


'Version 2'

point | TP1 | TP2 | TP3 | TP4 | TP5 | TP6 | TP7 | TP8 | TP9 | TP10 | TP11 | TP12 | TP13 | TP14 | 5V | 12V |
no-BS | 2.72 | 0.00 | 1.37 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 1.36 | 3.35 | 0.60 | 0.00 | 2.72 | 1.12 | 0.61 | 3.31 | 2.72 | 5.04 | 11.89 |
bS | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.26 | 0.05 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 3.32 | 2.72 | 5.04 | 11.89 |


Please note that these values are BAD due to manufacturing bug !! (see text) 'Version 1B'

no-BS | 3.19 | 0.00 | 1.61 | 0.00 | 0.00 | 1.60 | 3.39 | 0.61 | 0.00 | 3.18 | 1.11 | 0.60 | 3.31 | 2.72 | 5.04 | 11.93 |



TP1=TP10 (memory voltage)
TP11 (GPU voltage, small resistor 1 ohm)
TP3, TP5 (VTT/VREF voltages)

It can be clearly seen that ISL6534 operate after BS, since some reference output are working, but all switch regulator outputs have been shut down.

5.2 Resistance and capacitance

I measured the resistance and capacitance between listed nodes and GND. Please, note that capacitance values starting with ~ means uncertain value (oscillation) and the accuracy of the some capacitance values is poor (multimeter cannot measure capacitance value correctly, when there is a small parallel resistor).


'Version 2'

point | TP1 | TP2 | TP3 | TP4 | TP5 | TP6 | TP7 | TP8 | TP9 | TP10 | TP11 | TP12 | TP13 | TP14 | 5V | 12V |

resistance | 101.3 | 0 | 161.3 | 0 | 0 | 527 | 852 | 851 | 0 | 101.2 | 5.6 | 545 | 5.93k | 4.86k | 4.8k | 7.8k |
capacitance | ~5.7u | 0 | 1.46u | 0 | 0 | 125n | 20.9u | 17u | 0 | 7.9u | ~150n | 11n | 87.7n | 96.5n | 710u | 780u |


'Version 1B'

point | TP1 | TP2 | TP3 | TP4 | TP5 | TP6 | TP7 | TP8 | TP9 | TP10 | TP11 | TP12 | TP13 | TP14 | 5V | 12V |

resistance | 70.5 | 0 | 111.3 | 0 | 0 | 520 | 851 | 849 | 0 | 70.6 | 3.6 | 543 | 5.94k | 4.87k | 4.65k | 7.8k |
capacitance | ~4.7u | 0 | ~0.5u | 0 | 0 | 129n | 18.7u | 15u | 0 | ~4.7u | ~100n | 7.5n | 103nn | 111n | 702u | 772u |


5.3 AC-voltage

I measured the 'phase' node and memory voltages (see page 8 [4]) of the ISL6534 regulator circuit with HP 54602A oscilloscope. Yes, it was quite tricky operation but I succeeded ! I tried to measure if the voltage level would behave abnormally before/after BS. I found that the used oscilloscope was not able to show anything important when measuring memory voltage - the accuracy (speed) was not sufficient to detect BS. In theory that would be possible to measure, but this measurement requires a *high* cost equipment. Anyway, I managed to measure phase signal and found nice 299 kHz square wave signal having amplitude between 0 - ~5 volts. The rise and the fall times of thes signal were 13ns and 3 ns, respectively. The higher risetime is due to lower gate drive for upper MOSFET (see datasheet if you are really interested [5]). The pulse width (PW) varied rapidly when a heavy load was applied. The pulse width was 54 % in the idle state and I saw values > 60 % under heavy load. However, I did not saw pulse width higher that those values when BS occured. Again, this would indicate that BS happens at medium load by very rapid peak current that cannot ((easily)) be measured.

I also measured AC-voltage of the TP10 (Vmem) with a high performance instrumentation amplifier constructed with a PGA202. This circuit provides a high accuracy adjustable gain and rejects all common mode noise, so it is ideal to measure ripple voltages. I connected measurement probe between TP10 and TP9 as shown in foto below.


http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/2267/vmeassetup01qb.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vmeassetup01qb.jpg)
Figure 27. Memory ripple voltage measurement setup

The gain was adjusted G=4, so the measured values has to be divided by four to get actual ripple voltages. Below are shown two measured cases: (a) windows in idle state (b) under heavy 3d-load. It is clearly seen that ripple voltage increases in order of four under heavy load, which indicates a high ripple current (see below).

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/8997/vripple16mp.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vripple16mp.jpg)
http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/5859/vripple20bw.th.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/my.php?image=vripple20bw.jpg)
Figure 28. Measurered memory ripple voltage (a) windows idle (b) under heavy 3d-load

5.4 AC-current

I measured the the AC-current consumption of the molex 5V line (which provided current for the memory regulator) as follows. I inserted a small ( 50 milliohm) in series with 5 V line of the molex-connector. Above the resistor I put a instrumentation amplifier having gain of 20 to get a reading of 1 A = 1 V in the measurement device. The foto of the setup is shown below.


http://img368.imageshack.us/img368/6728/imeassetup05am.th.jpg (http://img368.imageshack.us/my.php?image=imeassetup05am.jpg)
Figure 29. Molex 5V line ripple current measurement setup

I used an oscilloscope in different conditions to see how current consumption is varying. In the first foto below (a) is shown a windows idle state, and current spikes at low frequency is detected. This condition proofes the origin of noisy audio, since the frequency lies on audio band and traces the one that can be heard !! The rest two cases show how 'ugly' the current consumption variation can be. The current consumption varies between 1 A - 4 A which is quite near the values approximated above.


http://img455.imageshack.us/img455/2995/iripple35pn.th.jpg (http://img455.imageshack.us/my.php?image=iripple35pn.jpg)
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/8066/iripple19ah.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=iripple19ah.jpg)
http://img369.imageshack.us/img369/9012/iripple24hf.th.jpg (http://img369.imageshack.us/my.php?image=iripple24hf.jpg)
Figure 30. Measurered molex 5V line ripple current (a) windows idle (b)(c) under heavy 3d-load



5.6 Noisy audio measurements

I have been solving almost whole the time when using 6800le-card quite annoying audio/noise problems. This problem has been very hard to solve, and took long time to solve it or find a sensible reason. Now I am sure that problem is caused ONLY due to GW6800le-card, and therefore I will explain the 'feature' in this document. It is likely, that the same problem disturbs also other users having a BS-card and I have demostrated excatly the same behaviour with a card never (yet) shown BS-feature.

The problem is simply a annoying sound or noise, having varing frequency and amplitude. Moreover, the frequency is 'modulated' with the current framerate (!!). Usually the noise has quite low amplitude and it can be only heard when there are no other sounds. For instance a 3dmark03-benchmark is good for testing purposes, since it does not have (mostly part) sound and the framerate is varing considerably. Following setup is required for the audio test:


- Computer having a GF6800(le)-card, that is known/assumed to be BS-affected
- CD-rom having audio cable installed to soundcard/mainbourd (important!!)
- In the 'Volume control'-panel the 'CD-player Volume' is maximized
- A suitable program is launched e.g. 3dmark03 or aquamark03 (without sound)
- Headphones preferred, since the amplitude of the noise might be low
- Just listen ..

Why I am sure it is caused by GF6800 ? I have tested a lot following different options/combinations:

- GF4200 : No noise
- GW6800le version 2 vs version 1b : No difference !!! version 1b has not made BS (yet) !!!
- Win98 vs Win2000 : No difference
- Sounblaster Audigy vs integrated : No difference
- Different CD-players : Minor difference (DVD-player makes louder noise, since it consumes more current)
- Molex removed from CD : No noise
- Added 'filter' to CD-molex : Very low noise

The filter I used is constructed with wires ripped from old PC-power and a large ferrite ring (ferrite rings can also be 'found' from old electronic equipments e.g. power supplies). The molex-wires have been cut in the middle and wounded several times around the ferrite. Finally wires are soldered together again, see figure below.

http://img245.echo.cx/img245/7923/molexferrite1oi.th.jpg (http://img245.echo.cx/my.php?image=molexferrite1oi.jpg)
Figure 31. A lowpass filter for removing power supply noise due to GF6800-card

In order to have some idea what kind of sound you would except, I recorded following audio tracks (amplified a lot): 'Windows 2000 - do nothing', ' 3dmark03 GT1', 'Aquamark03' and 'SkiAlpin'. If interested, download and enjoy :D


http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/sikaripp/6800le/win2000_idle.mp3
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/sikaripp/6800le/audio_3dmark03_1.mp3
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/sikaripp/6800le/audio_aqua03_1.mp3
http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/sikaripp/6800le/audio_skiapline_1.mp3

Why this is happening ??? And why it is happening also for card never made a BS-feature ? Does this noise predict BS-feature in future (if not yet affected) ?!?! I have a theory and I will explain it in more detail in the next release. In short (for this release) I think that switching regulator for memories is OSCILLATING at quite low frequency and this adds noise to the molex lines (mainly 5V).The noise is coupled via CD-player to the audio cable, due to poor power supply rejection ratio at low frequencies.


I performed more audio measurements having setup as follows. I utilized case 'windows 2000 is doing anything', to have a constant current consumption i.e. oscillation at fixed frequency. I recorded noise audio in four different cases:

- No filter at molex-connector
- 12 V molex-line filtered (12 V wire wounded around ferrite)
- 5 V molex-line filtered (5 V wire wounded around ferrite)
- Both 12 V and 5 V molex-lines filtered

Afterwards I concated files together and amplified data to make 'noise' audiable. When listening constructed file (link below), it can be easily noticed the difference due to filtering options. The filtering of 5V-molex line has much bigger effect than the 12-V line, so the main source for noise is 5V-molex line. Since, this voltage is used for memory voltage generation (and 12 V for GPU voltage), I suggest oscillation of switching regulator as a mechanism for noisy audio generation.


http://www.angelfire.com/electronic2/sikaripp/6800le/win2000_idle_all_2.mp3


5.5 Temperature measurements

I have measured temperatures of the cards: 'Gainward 6800le version 1b' and MSI 6800le (BS-affected). I used a Pt100-sensor (high accuracy platinum temperature sensor) glued at top to wooden stick (see foto below), which I gently put top of each component.

Figure 33. Temperature sensor (Pt100) attached at the tip of wooden stick

The accuracy of the sensor is high, but due to poor thermal contact the measured temperatures are too optimistic (=one or two degrees too low). Results for both card can be found below:

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/8919/gwv1bowntemp28kt.th.jpg (http://img442.imageshack.us/my.php?image=gwv1bowntemp28kt.jpg)
http://img401.imageshack.us/img401/7384/msiv1m2temp27nx.th.jpg (http://img401.imageshack.us/my.php?image=msiv1m2temp27nx.jpg)
Figure 34. Measured temperatures of GW6800le and MSI6800le-cards

It can be seen, that the temperature of the 'green' capacitors is considerably higher in BS-affected card (MSI), which makes sense since higher ESR of capacitor means higher power consumption and higher temperature.


I measured or tested effect of very low temperature to 'Gainward 6800le version 1b' -card. It should be noted that this card has never (yet) made 'black screen', and therefore it is kindly requested wheather somebody could repeat this test with BS-affected card. Detailed instructions can be found in 'Most wanted'-list at the end of this document.

I used a freezing spray especially designed for cooling/testing of electronic equipment. If somebody will do the test it is important to use that kind of freezing method to avoid shorts etc. I launched 'the best BS-program I know' SkiAlpine2005-demo having cold spray in hand. When applying a hard 3D-load for card (=skiing down the route) I simultaneously freezed those capacitors (C136 and C143). I used cold spray A LOT to make those capacitors fully icy i.e. the temparature became well below 0 C (celcius). I did not get BS even trying this trick for little period (I wonder I am the FIRST person in this planet that have desperately tried toget BS to non-BS-card..).
Another interesting thing was that the frequency of the noisy audio did not change during freeze.

This test showed that when new (=having still good capacitors) these cards are not very sensitive to temperature. In fact in the datasheet of those capacitors is stated that they should have excellent temperature characteristics (when compared to standard aluminium electrolytic capacitors). But what kind of temperature sensitivity those capacitors have when they are almost worn out (dead) ?
I tested also the 'temperature trick' for the BS-affected MSI-card. I was running a program that did not give before BS (AquaMark03) and freezed capacitors with the spray: the result was a sudden BS !!! So, this test proofed (once again) that the problem is ESR, since ESR of these capacitors is increased when temperature goes down.


5.6 Component value determination

I have been investigated and measured the components that are part of the switching regulator. The aim of this work is to understand what the high ESR value of the capacitors causes and also find out what Gainward has been modified in the feedback path for version 1b. I think that I have now values for all relevant components and know the circuit connections at required accuracy to sketch the switching power circuitry for memory voltage generation. In this point I have now considered core-voltage generation, since I do not think it is so important for this problem.

The schematic for the switching power is quite similar to shown in the datasheet of the ISL6534 (page 17). The most infortant components in respect of the transient characteristics of the power supply are:

- Mosfets
- Inductor (output filter)
- Capacitors C136 and C143 (output filter)
- Compensation circuit

The aim of the compensation circuit is to provide proper phase margin for signal i.e. prevent oscillations etc. when heavy load transients are applied. I have been trying to analyze and make electrical simulations about this cicuit, but in order to this exact component values are required. Below I decribe in very detailed a method how I measured the component values of the feedback path. In order to find out the differences between cards (=explanations why some card are working), it is asked wheather somebody could make these measurements. These measurement requires a multimeter having capacitance and resistance measurement capability. If you will perform these DO NOT measure while power is 'ON' and be carefull not to destroy your card due to ESD (static electricity discharge)!

Following instruction are related to names shown in the Figure below.

http://img148.echo.cx/img148/2742/memfb17hp.th.jpg (http://img148.echo.cx/my.php?image=memfb17hp.jpg)
Figure 33. Locations for the switching regulator feedback components (memory voltage)

Resistors

These are quite easy to measure: no tricks are required and the polarity of the measurement does not matter (+/- -terminals of the multimeter). It is asked to measure resistance between following nodes:

R(N1-VDD_MEMORY) = 10 ohm (=R3)
R(N2-N1) = ~ 1000 ohm (=R1)
R(N2-N3) = ~ 6850 ohm (=R2)
R(TP14-GND) = ~ 4870 ohm (=R6)
R(TP14-TP13) = ~ 1000 ohm (=R5)
R(VDD_MEMORY-GND) = ~ 70 ohm

Capacitors

This is *little* bit tricky. If you are aware of basic electronics you know that in general case a resistor or capacitor connected as a part of circuit is impossible to measure. In this case those resistors can be determined by the measurement results above . The main problem with the capacitors became to fact that HAVING A RESISTOR PARALLEL TO CAPACITOR DETERIORATES RESULT. I was thing this problem *little* and I though for a long that only way to measure those values would require desoldering of components. However, I discovered two tricks and now I am quite sure that values can be determined decent accuracy with simple measurements.

Trick '1' is to short e.g with little wires some nodes to cancel some capacitors and resistors (Warning again, never do this when power is on, I HARDLY suggest to do this when card is removed from PC), . As a results only a few components are effective for measurements and values can be more easily interprepted.
Trick '2' is to afterward alter/distort/correct measured capacitance values WHEN a parallel resistance exists. I did the trick as follows. I measured capacitance and resistance values between certain nodes. Then I adjusted potentiometer (variable resistor) to measured value add soldered little arbitrary value (!) capacitors parallel to this resitor. Using trial and error I found a capacitance value which gave exactly the same capacitance reading. When removing the resistor the real capacitance value can be easily measured ! At first I tried to analytically determine the effect of the parallel resistor but turned out very nonlinear phenomena, and I decided to use trial and error method.

The capacitance values should be EXACTLY the same using this method, but I found that accuracy is lower when having low parallel resistance i.e. the obtained capacitance value is very sensitive to resistance.

I measured capacitance in following cases to determine values for relevant components (Please note that the first node was allways connected to positive terminal of multimeter!):

Easy ones:
C(TP13-GND) = 108 nF
C(TP14-GND) = 117 nF
C(N4-GND) = 155 nF

Tricky ones (need to short some points e.g. little wires NO need to solder just push gently between those nodes):
C(N3-GND = 62.6 nF (both VDD_MEMORY and N2 shorted to GND)
C(N3&N4-GND) = 1.8 nF (here N3 and N4 were shorted with measurement cable AND both VDD_MEMORY and N2 shorted to GND in the same time... yes that one is *really* tricky)
C(N2-GND) = 35 nF (here N4 AND VDD_MEMORY AND N2 were shorted to GND)

Using this data I determined capacitances (see Figure above for labels) and rounded those to standard values:
C1 = 100 nF
C2 = 10 nF
C3 = 100 nF (+/- ~50 nF)

Please note that these capacitance values might not very accurate due to reasons stated above. However, I think that these are accurate enough to provide information about feedback loop dynamics (simulations are under work..)


5.7 ESR measurements

Finally, for the version 2.2, I finised the ESR measurementS for the C136 & C143-capacitors. It was a HARD project and took ~ half a year to finish !! I would kindly thank all how send me old 'green' CV-EX capacitors, so I got enough 'material' for measurements. In the beginning I show the acquired results of the ESR-measurements. Then I briefly explain the mesurement device and try to approximate the errors due to setup.

ESR-values

I measured the ESR-values (equivalent series resistance) of several C136 & C143 capacitors ripped off the black screen affected cards. Those capacitors are CV-EX series from Sanyo and the specified ESR should be lower than 30 mohm, 470 uF 6.3 V (milliohm). The main reason I was EXTREMELY interested to acquire actual values is that a value of 2 times higher than nominal is considerd as destroyed component. So, this mesurement should confirm (and it in fact CONFIRMED) the problem is really releted to capacitors out of specifications. (On the other hand the successfully performed ultimate capacitor modification confirmed that also before, but I WANT to see on my own eyes WHAT are ESR values).


Here are the measured ESR-values for "CV-EX, 470 uF 6.3 V"-capacitors ripped off from GW and MSI 6800le-cards:

| 1 | 1 | 1 | 1 | 2 | 2 | 3 |
---------------------------------------------------------
ESR [mohm] | 207 | 194 | 199 | 211 | 192 | 170 | 227 |

Capacitor codes:
1 = "4 3 470 6E"
2 = "4 8 470 6E"
3 = "4 6 470 6E"

I am sure that everyone ever measured ESR-values within milliohm accuracy, would be interested about measurement accuracy. I considered that issue below, but to verify the proposed measurement setup I characterized also known very high quality capacitors. Below are shown measured values of brand new Chemi-Con PXA/PXH-series capacitors.

| 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 |
--------------------------------------------
ESR [mohm] | 34 | 30 | 73 | 61 | 69 |

Capacitor codes, maximum specified ESR-value in parenthesis:
1 = "PXA, 1200 uF, 4V" (10 mohm)
2 = "PXA, 820 uF, 4V" (10 mohm)
3 = "PXA, 470 uF, 6.3V" (20 mohm)
4 = "PXA, 470 uF, 4V" (20 mohm)
5 = "PXH, 680 uF, 4V" (25 mohm)

Following observations can be made using this data:

- CV-EX capacitors HAVE BEEN RUINED, since ESR-value is many times larger than specified !!
- Measurement accuracy gets worse at very low ESR-values (see below)
- Mesurement results are monotonous i.e. higher series resitance gives higher value
- Reproductability of measurements is very high i.e. the same device gives the same value when measured again
- High accurate COMPARISON between components is possible to perform

Therefore, I propose the presented mesurement results show the measured CV-EX capacitors have MUCH larger ESR than specified than brand new PXA-capacitors, having specifiactions in the same magnitude of CV-EX-capacitors. I confirmed this by connecting a very high quality capacitor in series with ~ 100 mohm resistor and got a value of ~ 100 mohm larger than without series resistance. This experiment shows that even if the meter is not operating in a linear/high accuracy operation at level of ~ 0 ohms ESR, it can operate nicely in larger values.



ESR-meter

In very beginning I considered the hardest task would be obtaining proper amount of old CV-EX capacitors. However, because of helpfull people all over the world (Poland, Germany, Finland to name some..) I got a good set of capacitors. Later I found HOW hard it is to build a ESM-meter with milliohm (or 10 milliohm) range... I build two (or in fact three) different meter before I was happy with results.

The ESR-meter I build is based on clever and simply design proposed by Ray Porter [19]. Unfortunately the link to page that explained the operation does not exist anymore, but I'll briefly explain the idea. I am not going to describe detailed the operation and how-to-build such device, because I suppose that a person how NEEDS milliohm range ERS-meter do know something about electronics.

Operation

The simplified schematic of the ESR-meter is shown below. In the original design there was a 3-pole 4-way switch selecting feedback resistors to change operation between different ranges (1, 10, 100 ohm). If you are REALLY interested about details of that please send a private message. The idea is based on a negative impedance oscillator made with an operational amplifier (X2, in Figure). When the positive and negative (resistive) feedbacks are exatly the same the pulses generated by OPAMP X1 keep X2 in a continuous oscillation. The device-under-test (=capacitor) is connected between nodes C+ and C- and the ESR-value in addition to DC-resistance of L1 and R1 sets a 'reference resistance' later RREF = ESR + R(1) + R1. So, RREF is varying between 10 - 11 ohms in the case of capacitors having maximum ESR of 1 ohm.
The operational amplifier X2 gnerates pulses, which triggers oscillator (X1). If the feedback paths are in balance (=resistor ratios R2/(RREF) (VR1+R5)/R16 are equal) that oscillation is continuous. The pulses of the oscillator are detected with X3 which drives a LED. In the other words, by adjusting a proper feedback (using VR1) the ESR of the measured capacitor is detected by inspection whether the LED is blinking. The ESR value is obtained indirect manner by observing the VR1 value in that condition. A good component for VR1 is a multiturn high precision potentiometer with a proper knob, see foto below of the ESR-meter.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/2593/esrmetersch11nv.th.jpg (http://img403.imageshack.us/my.php?image=esrmetersch11nv.jpg)
Figure 34. A simplified schematic diagram of the ESR-meter

Construction

The schematic of the ESR-meter includes the most of the relevant information required, but I add some comment if somebody really want to build a high performance meter. Supply voltage can be almost anything, only the maximum rating of the OPAMP's is critical. Althought a high voltage generates high pulses to the capacitor under measure, so I suggest to use a lowest voltage which is specified by OPAMP. The supply voltage could be taken directly from 9 V battery, but I found the voltage variation be too high to get milliohm accuracy. Therefore, I use a linear regulator LM317 and some good capacitors to get a clean 9 V supply from a unregulated power supply. The inductance of an inductor L1 is not too critical, but the resistance above L1+R1 (should exactly 10 ohm). In the original guide was proposed to get 14 m copper wire having diameter of 0.3 mm and coil it around screw holders of the plactic box. In the model I used (~10x10 cm) that strategy gave a square shape coil inductor with ~ 45 rounds. After I finished the coil I solder it in series with a trimmer and adjusted resistance to 10 ohm. The ABSULUTE values for VR1, R5, R16 and are not critical, but the ratios. In the original design there were used values VR1=100k, R5=1Meg, R16=11k, but I used slighly different values since I got a high precision potentiometer having value of 4.7kohm. Therefore, I suggest to first select the best potentiometer you can find having value ~ 4.7 k - 100k and scale rest values to get proper ratios: R5=10*VR1, R16=(VR1+R5)/100. In the original design there was a switch changing R5 and R16 values to get different measurement ranges. Whatever values/resistances you will use a trimmers in series will be required to get EXACTLY correct ratios. The accuracy of the feedback paths (resistor ratios) sets the accuracy of the device, so if you accept lower performance you can use standard resistors. A suggested candidate for operational amplifier is TL084/TL074: required four OPAMP's in one IC and good performance.



Calibration and Measurements

After soldering all components to PCB some kind of calibration has to be performed. In the case of meter of high (!) ESR values, say 10 ohms, it is quite easy to make cabiration. A zero ohm ESR capacitor (=in respect of the range) can be easily found, making the zero level calibration an easy task. Moreover, the range adjusting can be performed with well defined resistors e.g. by connecting 4 psc 20 ohm resistor in parallel to get a 5 ohm accurate reference. When making mesurements in milliohm range things get *a little bit* complicated:

- There is no 'short', zero ohm ESR reference, since the point is to measure the best capacitors exist !!!
- Milliohm range resistors are hard (impossible ?) to find and cannot be characterized using standard equipment
- ESR of electrolytic capacitors is highly temperature dependent i.e. touching device in the same time changes results
- Effect of the connections/wiring is dramatic: 4 cm COPPER wire diameter of 0.3 mm equals resitance of ~ 10 mohm !!!

It can be easily seen that calibration and measurements have to be performed very carefully to get reliable results. I calibrated the equipment as follows. At first I set all feedback resistors to correct values with trimmers. The LED is blinking while the feedback resistance is at correct range and therefore the value has to be acquired when LED stops blinking. The knob I used shows the position at the accuracy of 1/100 per turn, which gives in theory reading resolution of 1 mohm (10 turns). I connected all capacitors in the same position by soldering to minimize the uncertainty of lead length and contact resistance. Using a high quality capacitor (Panasonic FK, 4700 uF, 10 V, ESR(max) = 18 mohm) I set the 'zero ohm level', take a look foto below about ESR-meter with capacitor under measurements.
I found it more convenient to set zero in purpose to higher level (by trimmer settings), since the device was operation more robust/linear manner when not set set exactly to zero. Moreover, I was not sure whether I will measure later a capacitor having even lower ESR and it would not be possible to get less than zero values with the meter !! This arrangement (arbitrary zero calibration) shifts the acquired values with a fixed offset resistance Roff. I approximated the offset resistance value of 50 mohm as follows. I measured two similar Panasonic FK capacitors in parallel, which halves the ESR but keeps offset resistance unchanged and Roff can be easily calculated. I obtained a value of 50 mohm, and found the result was well reproducible between different measurement sessions. I also checked the linearity of the equipment by connecting a known resistance series with measured capacitors. I constructed some low value resistors by connecting 0.3 ohm resistors in parallel and by cutting a copper wire (diameter of 0.3 mm) to proper lengths. I found that meter was operating in a very linear manner even resistor level down to 10 milliohm, which was a 4 cm legth copper wire (!!) (see foto below for setup).


http://img133.imageshack.us/img133/5999/pict0258d8kq.th.jpg (http://img133.imageshack.us/my.php?image=pict0258d8kq.jpg)
Figure 35. The ESR-meter setup, Panasonic FK capacitor in series with 30 milliohm resistor

As a conclusion of the ESR measurements: it was not a easy task, but after using hours to examining the problem and making tests I was very happy to the results obtained. It was possible to have a proper accuracy using a home made equipment, part cost of some euros. Also these measurements finally showed that the ESR-value of the old CV-EX capacitors is far away specifications - one of the my assumptions when starting to examine BS-feature.





Afterwords:


I hope someone likes this document, at least for me solving this problem has been quite challenging and even sometimes fun ! I hope that you can help to make this document even better by posting answers releted to 'Most wanted' items.


Changelog:

1.0 Created by SikaRippa (13.4.2005)
1.1 Figure links changed (14.4.2005)
1.2 Temperature effects (ch 4.2) and anti-aliasing etc. (ch 3.1) added (19.4.2005)
1.3 Little modifications (mostly typos) (21.4.2005)
1.4 Major update (30.4.2005, "Hyvää Vappua!")
- Info about many cards added
- GW6800 version 1B (explained, measurement results)
- Ultimate modification added
1.5 Chapter 'Noisy audio measurements' added (still under construction..) (11.5.2005)
1.6 Several little modifications and 'Memory voltage modification' added (17.5.2005)
1.7 Major update (13.6.2005)
- Mystery of C136 & C143 capacitors revealed !! (Ch 2.2)
- More accurate specifications for'Ultimate capacitor modification' (Ch 3.3)
- Temperature measurements Ch 5.4
- Component value determination Ch 5.5
1.8 FAQ-list added, minor changes e.g. 'Enhanced capacitor modification' figure fixed
1.9 Some updates (24.6.2005)
- Free capacitors
- Capacitor information
- Noisy audio
- Comments about switching regulator simulation
2.0 Many updates (1.9.2005)
- Fotographs of different cards
- Capacitors lists updated
- Ultimate capacitor modification/gainward modification rewriten
2.1 Many updates (3.12.2005)
- Gainward identification more precise (figure added)
- MSI cards (foto, comments)
- Sparkle (foto, comments)
- Aopen (fotos, comments)
- "Power supply"-chapter added
- "Ultimate capacitor modification"-chapter updated (figure added)
- "Modification of Switching regulator Feedback"-chapter rewritten
- "RoHs-issue"-chapter added
- "Temperature measurements" (measurement results, comments)
2.2 Many Updates (13.4.2006, yes exactly one year....)
- New information about some models
- AC-current measurements
- AC-voltage measurements
- ESR-measurements fully explained

Super-Credits:

Zadah

Credits (sorry for those I missed, I will update list later ;) ):

Bilabong, Faults, zOU, Michael Shouler,exyxxx, MAXIMUS, Terppi, BrxA, WileNius, Maxxer, AION, maaku, JTG, Mr Q, Tiny, pkuitune, Reptile, faior, Mace, mikkomaa, ZeroHero, stoneheart,dandaman, disciple, fitnessbonk, markiemrboo, sunn, Flip, oysteini, AFA-productions (for cameras and lens ;) ), DeNs, Sidolin, julianus, money2, Godefroy, hilton, Sakapo, Tormentor, Jaxradar, Möösi, zxcv,***Deimos***, xotoy, jabjab, inspire, unrealuniverse, robb-x, jromon, soodent, piaskoon, roby58, Doctor6000, uncy_chris, Firechicken, bertos, hannibal216, OnBoard, Sh0rt, xan, Graversen, Kizmo, Augu, hilton, WarPeR, Mr.Z, anzi80, Reflex86, TuskaMies, Icharus, lettubatman, DJ22, and many others..

References:

[1] http://forum.gainward.de/viewtopic.php?t=721
[2] http://www.3dgamers.com/games/skialpin2005/downloads/
[3] http://murobbs.muropaketti.com/thread.jsp?forum=21&thread=347556&msRange=15
[4] http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=48876
[5] http://www.intersil.com/data/fn/fn9134.pdf
[6] http://www.anpec.com.tw/products/download/APL/APL5331/APL5331.htm
[7] http://www.hynix.com/datasheet/pdf/dram/HY5DU283222AF(Rev.0.7).pdf
[8] http://www.low-esr.com/electcompare.html-ssi
[9] http://www.chemi-con.com/u7002/table2.pdf
[10] http://www.nichicon-us.com/english/lib/alminium.pdf
[11] http://forum.msi.com.tw/index.php?topic=78200.new#new
[12] http://www.semicom.co.uk/manufacturer/sanyo/sanyo_oscon/oscon_products_svp.html
[13] http://www.secc.co.jp/pdf/al_e/E15.pdf
[14] http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/Welcome_e.html
[15] http://industrial.panasonic.com/www-data/pdf/ABA0000/ABA0000TE5.pdf
[16] http://www.chemi-con.co.jp/pdf/catalog/al-e1001e/al-pxa-e-050527.pdf
[17] http://www.intersil.com/cda/deviceinfo/0%2C1477%2CISL6534%2C0.html
[18] http://www.newark.com/services/rohs/documents/RohsTechManual_v2.pdf
[19] Ray Porter, "Simple ESR Meter for Electrolytics", TELEVISION Servicing Magazine January and April 1993

------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Most Wanted list:


1. Information about BS-cards not mentioned above (brand/model/codes/etc. or foto)
2. Any comments about this document, especially about presented BS-theory.
3. Some comments from those really involved with this problem, like R&D-team of Gainward. Behave like an real engineer, and give us correct explanation about the problem (if you know !?!?)

Reznik Akime
04-13-2005, 01:52 PM
I think Cat should take a look at this. Hopefully he didnt butcher my card. Thats exactly what it was doing except it didnt do it under high load.. And that could explain why it would come back on after a day or two..

ZeroHero
04-14-2005, 07:14 AM
You have done a really good work :clap:

I have a gainward geforce 6800LE. Had sometimes BS in 3dmark05/03. But especially when i benhed in cold air, around zero degres was the air and the card idle around 14-19 and load around 30c. Then it could come directly and I needed to set the memory 60mhz lower to work. Happened in all 3dmarks.
Now i have made the capmod to tp11, and haven't got any blackscreens after that but haven't test with cold air.

The mod with TP9 and Tp10 is really smart and easy, :clap:
But my voltages is relaly stable now so don't think i will win any oc with puting a capacitor more. But if I will get any problems with BS I will try your mod.

pudds
04-14-2005, 07:55 AM
I haven't got a 6800LE so the articles of no interest to me but great work writing it :clap: . Must have taken a lot of time.

Del Gro Badeu
04-14-2005, 08:35 AM
nice work ;)

SikaRippa
04-14-2005, 12:07 PM
You have done a really good work :clap:

I have a gainward geforce 6800LE. Had sometimes BS in 3dmark05/03. But especially when i benhed in cold air, around zero degres was the air and the card idle around 14-19 and load around 30c. Then it could come directly and I needed to set the memory 60mhz lower to work. Happened in all 3dmarks.
Now i have made the capmod to tp11, and haven't got any blackscreens after that but haven't test with cold air.

The mod with TP9 and Tp10 is really smart and easy, :clap:
But my voltages is relaly stable now so don't think i will win any oc with puting a capacitor more. But if I will get any problems with BS I will try your mod.

Thank you for comments ! I found VERY interesting your tests with temperatures :D this requires an explanation !

I'll try: ESR-value of aluminium electrolytic capacitors reduced when temperature increases (I think this case with all those cap's ?). If you cool PCB (and capacitors) the ESR increases and using the theory above this will cause BS immediately !! (I hope this logic is correct ;) )

I think, I will add issue to guide !!

--

What is the model of your card, version 1, 2, some other (see #1) ?

--

This would be very nice indication/proof of the theory. Anyone want to really help ?

1. A UNMODDED (no added capacitors) card having BS-feature required.
2. Apply a heavy 3D-load that does NOT usually cause BS (some 3dmard..)
3. Carefully cooling of those 'green marked' (c136..) capacitors e.g. special (for this purpose!) cooling spray or simply by blowing with a straw :rolleyes: . The cooling sould be targeted to these capacitors and NOT to IC's (in order to make more reliable test)
4. BS or NOT-BS, please post (with your card version)
5. You wil get credited ASAP

ZeroHero
04-15-2005, 08:59 AM
Thank you for comments ! I found VERY interesting your tests with temperatures :D this requires an explanation !

I'll try: ESR-value of aluminium electrolytic capacitors reduced when temperature increases (I think this case with all those cap's ?). If you cool PCB (and capacitors) the ESR increases and using the theory above this will cause BS immediately !! (I hope this logic is correct ;) )

I think, I will add issue to guide !!

--

What is the model of your card, version 1, 2, some other (see #1) ?

--

This would be very nice indication/proof of the theory. Anyone want to really help ?

1. A UNMODDED (no added capacitors) card having BS-feature required.
2. Apply a heavy 3D-load that does NOT usually cause BS (some 3dmard..)
3. Carefully cooling of those 'green marked' (c136..) capacitors e.g. special (for this purpose!) cooling spray or simply by blowing with a straw :rolleyes: . The cooling sould be targeted to these capacitors and NOT to IC's (in order to make more reliable test)
4. BS or NOT-BS, please post (with your card version)
5. You wil get credited ASAP

Checked out and it was Made in taiwan so it's the first version. It did BS just when it was on it's max, around 900mhz and not always.
In nature i haven't have any BS, even with cold air but Dragon high and low, especially dragon high I had a lot of problems with BS with cold air. But no problem with normal cooling but 3dmark05 could be problematic even with normal cooling sometimes.
Btw, the pcb was about 0c with cold air and 10c load, so perhaps your theory is right. :)

SikaRippa
04-15-2005, 11:59 AM
Checked out and it was Made in taiwan so it's the first version. It did BS just when it was on it's max, around 900mhz and not always.
In nature i haven't have any BS, even with cold air but Dragon high and low, especially dragon high I had a lot of problems with BS with cold air. But no problem with normal cooling but 3dmark05 could be problematic even with normal cooling sometimes.
Btw, the pcb was about 0c with cold air and 10c load, so perhaps your theory is right. :)

OK. The first version as I know) usually is BS-card even with a brand new one. I have never get BS with 3dmark05 (version 2 card), so this makes difference. Maybe first one is also more vulnerable to temperature effects (?).

Do you mean with 0c = ambient is 0 celcius (you must be living in Inari, having real ambient of -40c :D ) ? Or do you mean that 0c = reference i.e. temperature without load and you get +10 degrees above that level when loaded ?

Anyway, I suppose what is your point: applied cold air cools PCB -> BS occured !

--

I am quite sure that this temperature phenomena is (almost) the missing link between overcurrent (peak) and BS ((((not between human and monkey :D)))), since temperature has a HUGE impact to ESR. Thanks a lot :clap:

ZeroHero
04-16-2005, 02:30 AM
OK. The first version as I know) usually is BS-card even with a brand new one. I have never get BS with 3dmark05 (version 2 card), so this makes difference. Maybe first one is also more vulnerable to temperature effects (?).

Do you mean with 0c = ambient is 0 celcius (you must be living in Inari, having real ambient of -40c :D ) ? Or do you mean that 0c = reference i.e. temperature without load and you get +10 degrees above that level when loaded ?

Anyway, I suppose what is your point: applied cold air cools PCB -> BS occured !

--

I am quite sure that this temperature phenomena is (almost) the missing link between overcurrent (peak) and BS ((((not between human and monkey :D)))), since temperature has a HUGE impact to ESR. Thanks a lot :clap:


Okay, I always got it in the GT1 in 3dmark05 when i got BS.
Yes, i mean the card's ambient temp, isn't it the same as the pcb temp? read it somewhere. Had it at 0c idle and after a 3dmark round it was around 10c.
-40c :D so cold have i never expired. Live in south Finland, and the temp was as coldest -8c when I benched, someday around 0c. But we can have -25c some winters. But i think -8c was too cold to bench in already.
But now it's spring so it's not cold anymore, 10c+ now.

SikaRippa
04-16-2005, 09:17 AM
Okay, I always got it in the GT1 in 3dmark05 when i got BS.
Yes, i mean the card's ambient temp, isn't it the same as the pcb temp? read it somewhere. Had it at 0c idle and after a 3dmark round it was around 10c.
-40c :D so cold have i never expired. Live in south Finland, and the temp was as coldest -8c when I benched, someday around 0c. But we can have -25c some winters. But i think -8c was too cold to bench in already.
But now it's spring so it's not cold anymore, 10c+ now.

Ok, you mean temperature value obtained with temperature meter of the card (by software) ?. These can give sometimes very wierd values: I noticed once that my MB has ~250 C !! I did not belive because the soldering was still solid not liquid :D . Maybe you value is correct , I was only wondering that low value cannot be in practice obtained (my values are somewhere >30 C for card and ~ 55 for GPU, obtained with rivatuner)

----

Maybe you did not look under my avatar ;) I am also for Finland (and south, inside 'kehä 3') maybe we should switch to finnish :D :D :D

ZeroHero
04-17-2005, 06:36 AM
Ok, you mean temperature value obtained with temperature meter of the card (by software) ?. These can give sometimes very wierd values: I noticed once that my MB has ~250 C !! I did not belive because the soldering was still solid not liquid :D . Maybe you value is correct , I was only wondering that low value cannot be in practice obtained (my values are somewhere >30 C for card and ~ 55 for GPU, obtained with rivatuner)

----

Maybe you did not look under my avatar ;) I am also for Finland (and south, inside 'kehä 3') maybe we should switch to finnish :D :D :D

yes, checked from harwere mointor in rivatuner. It has shown realistic temperatures with normal air so i belive it will give quiet realistic temps with cold air too.
I have about 30 idle for the card and 45 for the GPU. The difernce is 15c, the same I had with cold air.

Lol, didn't notificted that :D I live outside the Kehä 3 but not much. I live in Kirkkonummi.

SikaRippa
04-17-2005, 12:24 PM
yes, checked from harwere mointor in rivatuner. It has shown realistic temperatures with normal air so i belive it will give quiet realistic temps with cold air too.
I have about 30 idle for the card and 45 for the GPU. The difernce is 15c, the same I had with cold air.

Lol, didn't notificted that :D I live outside the Kehä 3 but not much. I live in Kirkkonummi.

OK, I think those values are good and I got nice information
about this temperature effect. 'Kiitos' again ;) (those will be added to document soon..)

So, you live ~10 km west from me, I wonder you never guess the place :rolleyes:

--

What you think about the theory (bad cap's make the BS) , could it be correct ?

disciple
04-18-2005, 01:33 PM
I just had a GW6800Le. It BSed in the beginning but I made a capacitor mod which fixed the problem. However it began bsing again after 4 months.

I used rma for the card and got a new one. ON THAT ONE WAS ONE CAPASITOR MISSING!!! Then I thought that well maybe they have changed the voltage supply somehow. Well I installed it in my computer and my computer didn't wake up... even after I took the gw6800le out... It didn't work that day and I didn't have the time to try to fix it. But next day it booted up nicely for some weird reason(without the 6800le).I hadn't touched the computer before that. I used rma to the missing-cap-6800le. We'll see what the next one will be like...

Maybe we can have a 6800le reunion somewhere inside kehä yksi someday :).

Holst
04-18-2005, 02:14 PM
I think its HIGHLY unlikely that the caps themselves are faulty.

It might be that they are the wrong spec, but thats also quite unlikely (although not impossible, reference designs can often be wrong, and graphics card manufacturers might copy the error)

If adding another cap in paralell to the ones you have works.. then well dont for finding the fault,

I would recomend keeping this cap relatively small 1000uf or so, you dont want to damage the Vreg by increasing the charging current on power on excessivly.

If adding a cap does not help then my first thought would be to make sure that the card is kept cool, especially the voltage regulation.
If the fault occours under load, chances are its temperature related IMO.

Nice post anyway Sikarippa, keep up the good work.

SikaRippa
04-18-2005, 11:58 PM
I just had a GW6800Le. It BSed in the beginning but I made a capacitor mod which fixed the problem. However it began bsing again after 4 months.

I used rma for the card and got a new one. ON THAT ONE WAS ONE CAPASITOR MISSING!!! Then I thought that well maybe they have changed the voltage supply somehow. Well I installed it in my computer and my computer didn't wake up... even after I took the gw6800le out... It didn't work that day and I didn't have the time to try to fix it. But next day it booted up nicely for some weird reason(without the 6800le).I hadn't touched the computer before that. I used rma to the missing-cap-6800le. We'll see what the next one will be like...

Maybe we can have a 6800le reunion somewhere inside kehä yksi someday :).

So, you got it RMA'd even with modded (?)... nice ;)

Having BSs again after cap-modding can be easily interpret with 'a very bad cacacitor model': adding good capacitor parallel to bad one is the FIRST aid not a permanent cure. The mod I proposed might be working longer (!) since smaller resistances/inductances, and the degeneration rate of the original capacitors is slower.

You do not mean capacitor missing in all cards (see e.g. Fig 1 carefully). This empty 'hole' is parallel to MOLEX_5V capacacitor. Someone in this forum (I can not remember name) added a capacitor to 'hole' but it did not help.

"6800le Black Screen" - reunion in some day could be a nice idea ;)

SikaRippa
04-19-2005, 12:45 AM
I think its HIGHLY unlikely that the caps themselves are faulty.

It might be that they are the wrong spec, but thats also quite unlikely (although not impossible, reference designs can often be wrong, and graphics card manufacturers might copy the error)

If adding another cap in paralell to the ones you have works.. then well dont for finding the fault,

I would recomend keeping this cap relatively small 1000uf or so, you dont want to damage the Vreg by increasing the charging current on power on excessivly.

If adding a cap does not help then my first thought would be to make sure that the card is kept cool, especially the voltage regulation.
If the fault occours under load, chances are its temperature related IMO.

Nice post anyway Sikarippa, keep up the good work.

I agree, faulty capacitors are VERY unlike BUT still possible. It should be noted that here faulty means that ESR-value has been changed a little bit - very hard to detect except you have professional equipments. If you consider the facts and questions in #1 what other aspect/thing/component could cause BS ?? ((The refence design is working with other models !!!!))

Yes, the total added capacitance should be kept quite low level to avoid start up problems.

I added some text to the first post releted to temperature issues.

--

Thank for comments, I think the most of the work has been done, but I will update (correct) the document when necessary.

stoneheart
04-19-2005, 01:17 AM
I Just wanted to say a BIG Wooping Thx you for posting this solution!!!

The TP 9/TP 10 cap mod works like a charm on my GW ver.1 6800LE card!!
My card had BS problems running 16/6@300/700. I could run it at 300/491 without BS but that kinda sucks... so this post came like Mana from the heaven's.

I bought a 1000uf/16v cap at the local tv-repair shop and went home to try it out. Doing the TP9/TP10 mod was a walk in the park, just pushed the cap into the holes and installed the card into the box again... I must say that i was a little nervous when I pushed the power-button... But no worry's man! It worked like a charm :banana: :clap:

I've been playing games that BS'ed my card for 3 days now and not a singel BS :woot:

So if you ever find yourself in Norway, send me an email and I'll :toast:

Thx again Sikarippa, good work!


Stoneheart

Bilabong
04-19-2005, 06:00 AM
Absolutely oustanding work m8.

Thanks

Bila

dandaman
04-20-2005, 01:11 AM
Hi, and thanks for the detailed look at this problem!

I have just sent back an MSI 6800 128TD card with this problem. The problem occurred after just 10 mins playing Doom 3 on the first day I used it.

The capacitors on that card were C136 = 4 6 470 6E

Are you sure that those card with C136 = 4 2 470 6E are ok?

I am on my third return of a 6800le card and the shop im dealing with is getting fed up, as am I. I just want to get one that works!

dandaman
04-20-2005, 01:15 AM
also, has anyone got anything to say about the Gainward 2100? I had the twin fan version but couldnt bear the noise. is the single fan one much quieter?

SikaRippa
04-20-2005, 05:02 AM
I Just wanted to say a BIG Wooping Thx you for posting this solution!!!

The TP 9/TP 10 cap mod works like a charm on my GW ver.1 6800LE card!!
My card had BS problems running 16/6@300/700. I could run it at 300/491 without BS but that kinda sucks... so this post came like Mana from the heaven's.

I bought a 1000uf/16v cap at the local tv-repair shop and went home to try it out. Doing the TP9/TP10 mod was a walk in the park, just pushed the cap into the holes and installed the card into the box again... I must say that i was a little nervous when I pushed the power-button... But no worry's man! It worked like a charm :banana: :clap:

I've been playing games that BS'ed my card for 3 days now and not a singel BS :woot:

So if you ever find yourself in Norway, send me an email and I'll :toast:

Thx again Sikarippa, good work!


Stoneheart

Nice success story :)

--

I have visited Norway sometimes, we will see when the next time will be, but having :toast: with good company is allways nice, let's see..

SikaRippa
04-20-2005, 06:05 AM
Hi, and thanks for the detailed look at this problem!

I have just sent back an MSI 6800 128TD card with this problem. The problem occurred after just 10 mins playing Doom 3 on the first day I used it.

The capacitors on that card were C136 = 4 6 470 6E

Are you sure that those card with C136 = 4 2 470 6E are ok?

I am on my third return of a 6800le card and the shop im dealing with is getting fed up, as am I. I just want to get one that works!

This detail is interesting: you had 6800 card (NOT LE ???) having BS ? And you are sure it was BS-feature (!?). I am asking because nobody has reported (as I know) this before. How about other games than D3 ? Many peole have reported that D3 is working but HL2 is not.



Was the model of your card "MSI NX6800-TD128 (MS-8975) ? Like this one:

http://www.tcmagazine.info/articles.php?action=show&id=103&perpage=1&pagenum=2

The foto is bad but caps might be '4 6 470 6E'...

--

This might be important thing: BS would not be only affected by 6800le's but 6800's having some of the following caps:

'4 3 470 6E'
'4 6 470 6E'
'4 8 470 6E'

---

I think that '4 2 470 6E' capacitors have to be ok, since those are used with MSI and GW 6800 card, which are working well (????). '4 9 470 6E' capacitors are used with new MSI 6800le (as shown in post, BS or non-bs).( The very old 6800-cards like reference are using "3 X 470 6E" caps X=1.. )

I should emphasize: I DO NOT know (not 100 % sure) what capacitors are ok or bad (yet), but if I would get those capacitors it will be possible to measure them and that might give answer wheather the whole problem is due to capacitors.

---


About Gainward 2100 with twin fans.. I wonder it has also '4 8 470 6E' capacitors as GW6800le v2 (I saw a foto but it was too low quality to see details). Did you have any BS-problems with that model ?

(Edited a lot this post afterwards)

SSJ5
04-20-2005, 09:48 AM
Nice guide SikkaRippa

SikaRippa
04-22-2005, 01:09 PM
Thank you for feedback Bila and SSj5 !!

---

I noticed that this thread has been viewed ~900 times, and it got stars :p:

It seems that the work I have been done was not complete-waste-of-time... and therefore I will go on to improve to document whenever a new information or ideas are found.

---

I wonder why nobody has not given any detailed commens about the capacitor theory ? It is so exotic that 'hard-to-say-anything' ?

Please, post SOME comments and do not care about all technical aspects of the BS-problem !

disciple
04-25-2005, 06:29 AM
> So, you got it RMA'd even with modded (?)... nice
I removed the mods and carefully restored the solders.

>Having BSs again after cap-modding can be easily interpret with 'a very bad >cacacitor model':
I'll try your capmod to the new card I got today, if it doesn't work properly.

>You do not mean capacitor missing in all cards (see e.g. Fig 1 carefully).
No I don't mean that one :). The cap which was missing seemed to be ripped off. A teenyweeny piece off the cap was still on the card :p:. The cap c139 was missing.

Thanks again... the c136 on my new card is 44 470 6e. I'll try it out now.

SikaRippa
04-26-2005, 11:34 AM
> So, you got it RMA'd even with modded (?)... nice
I removed the mods and carefully restored the solders.

>Having BSs again after cap-modding can be easily interpret with 'a very bad >cacacitor model':
I'll try your capmod to the new card I got today, if it doesn't work properly.

>You do not mean capacitor missing in all cards (see e.g. Fig 1 carefully).
No I don't mean that one :). The cap which was missing seemed to be ripped off. A teenyweeny piece off the cap was still on the card :p:. The cap c139 was missing.

Thanks again... the c136 on my new card is 44 470 6e. I'll try it out now.

OK.. so there was a REAL manufacturing fault.

--

Thank you posting the cap's label: that is a new one ! I will add this and some other items to post #1 as-soon-as-get-all-items-orginized (and I will before that also perform some extra measurements..)

Please post, if/when this model will give a BS - no matter if it will take ~ 2 months :D

markiemrboo
04-27-2005, 04:56 AM
I believe I have had this black screen problem a couple of times with my Leadtek 6800NU (not LE!).

It worked great for the first few months, all pipes unlocked and I had it overclocked to 395/835. I upgraded to an A64 system and it all seemed to go down hill from there. My overclock on the card no longer seemed stable. During 3dmark and AQ3 it would pause a lot and get stuck for about 30 seconds. I lowered it to 380/800 and it seemed ok. I get very rare instances in CS S where it'll pause for about 30 seconds, then carry on. I have had a black screen at the lowered overclock too in CS S though!!!

I was just now playing FarCry, which I have NEVER had any problems with. The sound went funny, the screen went in to standby. I wiggled my mouse and it woke up, but it was black. Hit ctrl+alt+del and I actually got Windows back, couldn't get task manager up, so I just logged off and logged back on again.

The best part? It still does this now even if I put it back in my old Athlon XP system.

The green caps are: "49 470 6E". I think I might try your enhanced cap mod, looks EASY :)

SikaRippa
04-27-2005, 06:00 AM
I believe I have had this black screen problem a couple of times with my Leadtek 6800NU (not LE!).

It worked great for the first few months, all pipes unlocked and I had it overclocked to 395/835. I upgraded to an A64 system and it all seemed to go down hill from there. My overclock on the card no longer seemed stable. During 3dmark and AQ3 it would pause a lot and get stuck for about 30 seconds. I lowered it to 380/800 and it seemed ok. I get very rare instances in CS S where it'll pause for about 30 seconds, then carry on. I have had a black screen at the lowered overclock too in CS S though!!!

I was just now playing FarCry, which I have NEVER had any problems with. The sound went funny, the screen went in to standby. I wiggled my mouse and it woke up, but it was black. Hit ctrl+alt+del and I actually got Windows back, couldn't get task manager up, so I just logged off and logged back on again.

The best part? It still does this now even if I put it back in my old Athlon XP system.

The green caps are: "49 470 6E". I think I might try your enhanced cap mod, looks EASY :)

Quite interesting features with your card.. but are those 'black screen' -oddities (?). For me (and many others) 'black screen' means allways total shut down i.e. only way to get computer running again is to switch power off/on. I understood that you can usually get windows running after BS ? Have you never get TOTAL blockout/shutdown ?

However, the detail that the card is not working the same way than before, can be easily explained with the theory: capacitors get ruined after extensively use.

If the problem you have is not actually the same BS-feature, it is hard to say whether the cap-mod will help. But, I think that if the PCB-layout is exactly the same adding a capacitor (not too large) between VDD_memory and GND does not make at least any harm (??). Moreover, it is reported that OC-capability of those cards is improved by adding this capacitor.

--

Anyway, that you for providing this information, especially the cap markings !! If this is real BS I will add that capacitor to 'bad capacitor' -list. What is the detailed model number od your card ?

Please post if you decide to make the mod and what is result :)

markiemrboo
04-27-2005, 06:33 AM
Description: 2200ÁF 16V 105 RADIAL ELECTROLYTIC CAPS (10 of)
Product Code: 160-00111

miniature radial lead 105 deg cent. working electrolytic capacitors
miniature radial lead 105 deg cent. working electrolytic capacitors
wide temperature range
wide temperature range
supplied in packs of 10
supplied in packs of 10
tolerance +/- 20%
tolerance +/- 20%
leakage current max. 0.01cv
leakage current max. 0.01cv
temp. range -40 to +105 deg cent.
temp. range -40 to +105 deg cent.
ripple current measured at 120hz at 105 deg cent.
ripple current measured at 120hz at 105 deg cent.
working voltage 16v 25v 35v 63v
working voltage 16v 25v 35v 63v
surge voltage 20v 32v 44v 79v
surge voltage 20v 32v 44v 79v
dissipation factor tan 0.17 0.15 0.12 0.10
dissipation factor tan 0.17 0.15 0.12 0.10

Single Unit Price: £3.70
(plus VAT at 17.5%)


Does this capacitor sound ok?

EDIT: Oh and yeah, the FarCry black screen I just got wasn't like the ones I had before. The ones before were total lockup/freezes :(

EDIT 2: I have also found these, which are 25v and 1000uF, rather than 16v and 2200uF.

"NIPPON C.C. 1000uF 25V LXF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS"

Dunno the specs. Anyone know if they're high quality? Would a 25v cap work?

Daonh
04-27-2005, 01:24 PM
Awesome discovery SikaRippa. :woot:
Finally, fixed my BS problem.
Just one 1000uF cap between TP9 and TP10.
Thanks again. :clap:

SikaRippa
04-27-2005, 11:10 PM
Does this capacitor sound ok?

EDIT: Oh and yeah, the FarCry black screen I just got wasn't like the ones I had before. The ones before were total lockup/freezes :(

EDIT 2: I have also found these, which are 25v and 1000uF, rather than 16v and 2200uF.

"NIPPON C.C. 1000uF 25V LXF ELECTROLYTIC CAPACITORS"

Dunno the specs. Anyone know if they're high quality? Would a 25v cap work?

I think that those capacitors are just excellent for this purpose. I wonder the manufactured is 'Nippon Chemi-Con' and that should be a good brand.

--

Some comments for selecting capacitors for this purpose:


- SMALLER ESR spec. is BETTER e.g 0.025 ohm vs 1ohm
- SMALLER dissipation factor (tan d) spec. is BETTER
- LARGER ripple current spec. is BETTER e.g. 4 A - 1 A

- LARGER temperature spec. is BETTER e.g 105 vs 85 C
- LARGER can size spec. is BETTER (too large can be bulky)
- LARGER voltage spec. is BETTER (too large value >25 V means large can size)

--

It should be noted that the MOST critical thing is LOW ESR (=high ripple current) in addition to proper capacitance & voltage values and the other items are just if you have opportunity to choose/optimize.

markiemrboo
04-28-2005, 02:14 AM
I think that those capacitors are just excellent for this purpose. I wonder the manufactured is 'Nippon Chemi-Con' and that should be a good brand.

--

Some comments for selecting capacitors for this purpose:


- SMALLER ESR spec. is BETTER e.g 0.025 ohm vs 1ohm
- SMALLER dissipation factor (tan d) spec. is BETTER
- LARGER ripple current spec. is BETTER e.g. 4 A - 1 A

- LARGER temperature spec. is BETTER e.g 105 vs 85 C
- LARGER can size spec. is BETTER (too large can be bulky)
- LARGER voltage spec. is BETTER (too large value >25 V means large can size)

--

It should be noted that the MOST critical thing is LOW ESR (=high ripple current) in addition to proper capacitance & voltage values and the other items are just if you have opportunity to choose/optimize.

Good info right there, thank you very much!

I am going to do some hunting around and see what I can find. I'll post back after the mod and let you know if my horrible pausing / very rare black screen problems disappear :)

Excellent article by the way!
:toast:

EDIT: Oh and I believe the LE and NU PCB's are identical, I think the LE is just an NU with 8 pipes instead of 12?

I ordered some 3300uF caps, they were posted today.. probably with me tomorrow. Do you think 3300uF is too big?

DaWaN
04-29-2005, 04:21 AM
I've had an XFX 6800LE wich had a BS problem if i flashed a 1,4V bios, with a 1,2V or 1,1V bios there weren't any problems. So for me the BS problem was powersupply of the card the problem for the BS because voltage chip were getting very hot and capacitors had a heavy load.

markiemrboo
04-29-2005, 08:59 AM
Got my caps today and modded my card. I did a quick bench with AQ3 and 3dmark03 at 400/835 and no pausing. Gonna play some games see if it pauses on those now.

I'll post back in a couple of hours ;)

But yeah, do you think 3300uF is too much? Will my voltage regulator thingy be getting too hot? Which one is it, so I can touch it and see?

SikaRippa
04-29-2005, 10:03 AM
Good info right there, thank you very much!

I am going to do some hunting around and see what I can find. I'll post back after the mod and let you know if my horrible pausing / very rare black screen problems disappear :)

Excellent article by the way!
:toast:

EDIT: Oh and I believe the LE and NU PCB's are identical, I think the LE is just an NU with 8 pipes instead of 12?

I ordered some 3300uF caps, they were posted today.. probably with me tomorrow. Do you think 3300uF is too big?

Yes Le and NU (and even 6800!) are identical as can be seen in the first figure. However, some manufacturers (like ASUS) are using different design also for LE-card and those have never reported to be affected by BS.

I think 3300 uF is not too big value (maybe you noticed in #1 that I used 4700 uF myself ;) )

The most 'hot' components are probably the mosfets driving the inductors and capacitors. See the figure of the bottom of the card and locate two black components next to node 'phase' (these are for memory). In the same figure three black components at the very bottom of the card are for the core (left from TP5). Be carefully if/when touching those, in order not to destroy anything (due to ESD).

Nice that the first vision are positive !!! I hope you will overcome the problems for ever :)

SikaRippa
04-29-2005, 11:14 AM
I've had an XFX 6800LE wich had a BS problem if i flashed a 1,4V bios, with a 1,2V or 1,1V bios there weren't any problems. So for me the BS problem was powersupply of the card the problem for the BS because voltage chip were getting very hot and capacitors had a heavy load.

Nice to have comments also from someone have (had?, your specs..) XFX-card ;)

--

I agree, all modifications that make extra stress (=overclocking & higher voltages increase the BS-propability. There is no direct connection between core and memory voltage generation i.e. those are generated from different power lines (5V and 12V) and separated MOSFET's, caps etc are used. Thus, the increasing the core voltage should not affect on memory voltage, but maybe this can be possible ! The link could be power supply of PC (5V and 12V molex-lines) or the switching regulator chip (drives all MOSFET's)

What clock frequencies you had when BS occured ?

markiemrboo
04-29-2005, 01:47 PM
Yes Le and NU (and even 6800!) are identical as can be seen in the first figure. However, some manufacturers (like ASUS) are using different design also for LE-card and those have never reported to be affected by BS.

I think 3300 uF is not too big value (maybe you noticed in #1 that I used 4700 uF myself ;) )

The most 'hot' components are probably the mosfets driving the inductors and capacitors. See the figure of the bottom of the card and locate two black components next to node 'phase' (these are for memory). In the same figure three black components at the very bottom of the card are for the core (left from TP5). Be carefully if/when touching those, in order not to destroy anything (due to ESD).

Nice that the first vision are positive !!! I hope you will overcome the problems for ever :)

Thank you :) Especially for the lengthy guide!

:toast:

I was playing FarCry for a while and it did pause, but I think that was more a loading data in to RAM pause. Usually when it pauses in games the sound will get stuck in a loop and sound weird, like in a higher pitch or something. I don't think it did that this time, but my volume was turned down quite a bit as my sister was asleep. I'll play some more tomorrow JUST to make sure :)

One thing I don't quite understand though, the cap is for the memory, right? I can understand why the memory doesn't really overclock much higher, as I measured the memory voltage, which is only currently at 2.7v and rated for 2.8v I think. But how come this cap mod lets me overclock my core higher again, but without it pausing all the time now? Surely if anything it would have let my memory overclock slightly higher, not the core?

SikaRippa
04-29-2005, 02:49 PM
Thank you :) Especially for the lengthy guide!

:toast:

I was playing FarCry for a while and it did pause, but I think that was more a loading data in to RAM pause. Usually when it pauses in games the sound will get stuck in a loop and sound weird, like in a higher pitch or something. I don't think it did that this time, but my volume was turned down quite a bit as my sister was asleep. I'll play some more tomorrow JUST to make sure :)

One thing I don't quite understand though, the cap is for the memory, right? I can understand why the memory doesn't really overclock much higher, as I measured the memory voltage, which is only currently at 2.7v and rated for 2.8v I think. But how come this cap mod lets me overclock my core higher again, but without it pausing all the time now? Surely if anything it would have let my memory overclock slightly higher, not the core?

Nice it is working !!

It is hard to say anything clever about memory vs core voltages.. The reason (just guess ;) ) could be that regulator chip gets 'cleaner' supplies when capacitor added (=peak currents are lower)

SikaRippa
04-29-2005, 02:53 PM
Version 1.4 of the document has been posted !!

There are several features added, like investigating a 'new' GW6800le-card having memory voltage of 3.19 V (!!!) and some comments how to make an ultimate capacitor modification.

Take a look, and please give comments !!!

markiemrboo
04-29-2005, 02:55 PM
It's weird :)

I have just been reading about capacitors and found out that they run best between 20%-80% of their maximum rated voltage. I guess I should probably try and find a 6.3v cap instead? (20% of 16v = 3.2v and it's only getting 2.7v on my card!)

It seems troublesome trying to find caps in the UK! I don't know any local places, so I am having to look online, and most online places kill me with postage costs! The postage generally seems to be more expensive than the caps themselves! :(

SikaRippa
04-29-2005, 03:08 PM
It's weird :)

I have just been reading about capacitors and found out that they run best between 20%-80% of their maximum rated voltage. I guess I should probably try and find a 6.3v cap instead? (20% of 16v = 3.2v and it's only getting 2.7v on my card!)

It seems troublesome trying to find caps in the UK! I don't know any local places, so I am having to look online, and most online places kill me with postage costs! The postage generally seems to be more expensive than the caps themselves! :(

Relax, you have a now good capacitor ;) (=16 V capacitor is just fine for this purpose). I doubt that ONLY higher voltage causes some problems i.e. 80% value of the nomical decrease the life of the capacitor considerably.

markiemrboo
04-29-2005, 03:19 PM
lol ok, thanks. I'm a n00b, I seem to have trouble understanding electronics properly!

It's just some general purpose (I think) Phillips capacitor that I managed to get hold of, but it seems to have made it stable now (I hope) anyway, so i'll just leave it there if you think it's fine :D

markiemrboo
05-02-2005, 11:41 AM
Well, after lots of testing I can confirm this hasn't fixed my annoying pausing/freezing + sound looping thing :(

It's still doing it all over the place. Right now it's actually stuck whilst playing Day of Defeat... it doesn't look like it's going to wake up this time though. The image is just stuck there and the sound is looping :(

Should have gone with an ATI card. I think this is definately going to be my last nVidia...

EDIT: TP11 still reads 1.20v (core voltage) and the cap still reads 2.68v. Perhaps my problem is just.. lack of voltage on something. I think I will be doing a vmem mod soon. I plan on getting an arctic cooler... i'll tell you if that fixes my problem. *goes off and cries*

sunn
05-04-2005, 04:49 AM
so i got my GW GF6800LE rev1 replaced with a AOpen Aeolus 6800LE and so far NO BS :D hopefully to stay that way!

C136/C143 = 45 470 6E

ill try and get some pics taken as soon as possible if u want?

SikaRippa
05-04-2005, 06:38 AM
Well, after lots of testing I can confirm this hasn't fixed my annoying pausing/freezing + sound looping thing :(

It's still doing it all over the place. Right now it's actually stuck whilst playing Day of Defeat... it doesn't look like it's going to wake up this time though. The image is just stuck there and the sound is looping :(

Should have gone with an ATI card. I think this is definately going to be my last nVidia...

EDIT: TP11 still reads 1.20v (core voltage) and the cap still reads 2.68v. Perhaps my problem is just.. lack of voltage on something. I think I will be doing a vmem mod soon. I plan on getting an arctic cooler... i'll tell you if that fixes my problem. *goes off and cries*

It is pity that mod did not work with your card :(

I wonder (again) that the problem might not the BS in the sense normally understood. However, it is intersting that adding a capacitor helped a little: it indicates that there are problems quite similar to 'BS'. I think that voltage levels are ok ! Both voltages are exactly correct, and I think that no modification should be needed (as far as you do not want overclock VERY much)

--

I am still interesting about your card since there have to be something different compared to other cards: do you know any www-page having a figure of that card ?

SikaRippa
05-04-2005, 06:45 AM
so i got my GW GF6800LE rev1 replaced with a AOpen Aeolus 6800LE and so far NO BS :D hopefully to stay that way!

C136/C143 = 45 470 6E

ill try and get some pics taken as soon as possible if u want?

Good news for you :) .. thank you providing us a new capacitor model !!
Please post if you will get BS in future (it is not nice to be sooooooo sceptic BUT I do NOT rely these card too much anymore)

--

Figures would be nice, indeed :D :D :D ... having a 'proper' resolution i.e. one could see the component markings.

markiemrboo
05-04-2005, 11:20 AM
I just fitted an Arctic Silencer (lowered my temps to 60C full load, from 77C!!). I also did the vmem mod to give my memory 2.8v ... but during 3dmark03 I just now got a black screen of death :(

However. I had my RAM clocked at 900MHz (specs for the RAM are 900MHz @ 2.8v) ... and I had to take off the extra cap because the new cooler is too big. I couldn't see any artifacts up till the black screen though, and I am pretty darn sure my temps are good enough!

Any ideas?

SikaRippa
05-04-2005, 11:53 AM
I just fitted an Arctic Silencer (lowered my temps to 60C full load, from 77C!!). I also did the vmem mod to give my memory 2.8v ... but during 3dmark03 I just now got a black screen of death :(

However. I had my RAM clocked at 900MHz (specs for the RAM are 900MHz @ 2.8v) ... and I had to take off the extra cap because the new cooler is too big. I couldn't see any artifacts up till the black screen though, and I am pretty darn sure my temps are good enough!

Any ideas?


So.. you did voltage mod, and you have MEASURED you have now 2.8 V ?

Yes, the memory specs for some models is 2.2 ns (~909 MHz), but at least with 6800le-card there have been used all models between 2 ns - 2.8 ns. Have you cheked yourself what code is at top of the memories ?

markiemrboo
05-04-2005, 11:58 AM
Yeah, they're 2.2ns memories rated at 900MHz 2.8v

Measured 2.8v, yes. Funny thing is, I have to FORCE the 900MHz with a BIOS flash, because nvidia's overclocking thing always fails at exactly the same limit as before I gave the memories more volts!! That might just be some sort of driver bug though I guess

markiemrboo
05-05-2005, 09:19 AM
Well, tried benching 3dmark05 with 400MHz core and 900MHz memory (with the cap back on the back of the card) and it paused half way through, no black screen though! Lowered the memory to 850MHz and it completed the run.

Could be that my cap isn't good enough? My pausing before appears to be completely solved and was definatley heat related. I believe my pausing now is related to power, as the temps are good and it only pauses if I clock the memory too high..

With 1.3v to the core it's clocking at 430MHz on the core ( so far ;) )!! :D But if the memory is clocked too high i'll get pausing. Yet again confirmed, 430/900 = paused in 05. 430/870 = no pausing (running right now, nearly at the end!). I think I just need a really good quality cap on the memory? I mean, adding this cap back actually does seem to have made a difference. These kind of clocks weren't happening yesterday without that cap in place...

SikaRippa
05-05-2005, 09:26 PM
Well, tried benching 3dmark05 with 400MHz core and 900MHz memory (with the cap back on the back of the card) and it paused half way through, no black screen though! Lowered the memory to 850MHz and it completed the run.

Could be that my cap isn't good enough? My pausing before appears to be completely solved and was definatley heat related. I believe my pausing now is related to power, as the temps are good and it only pauses if I clock the memory too high..

With 1.3v to the core it's clocking at 430MHz on the core ( so far ;) )!! :D But if the memory is clocked too high i'll get pausing. Yet again confirmed, 430/900 = paused in 05. 430/870 = no pausing (running right now, nearly at the end!). I think I just need a really good quality cap on the memory? I mean, adding this cap back actually does seem to have made a difference. These kind of clocks weren't happening yesterday without that cap in place...

Thank you for voltage information.

Maybe the capacitor is now more optimally placed ? How long wires you have, and did you solder the leads ? These aspects DO have affect on performance and of course the capacitor quality (I wonder if it is 'low-ESR' -capacitor, not directly stated in the list you sent)

I think that flashing the memory voltage can be risky (due to possible stucking to wrong speed !!), and I would suggest to try clocking with different programs: coolbits, rivatuner...

markiemrboo
05-05-2005, 10:43 PM
Flashing memory voltage? No :) I adjusted memory voltage with a pot. But, I am flashing the BIOS to raise the core voltage from 1.2v to 1.3v.

I don't think it's a high quality cap :( It's just a general purpose 85C phillips thing. I am trying to get hold of a 105C low ESR one though.

If you like, I could probably remove the cap and see if any of the overclocks I had yesterday are still stable, or if they then experience pausing and black screens. Maybe that would be a good test?

I am overclocking with powerstrip ;) Coolbits is annoying, rivatuner's 'disable internal test' option doesn't work properly. I tried to tell them that when that power user option was enabled the core clock speed never changes from 325MHz, but they didn't want to listen to me :( powerstrip overclocks it just fine :)

sunn
05-06-2005, 04:49 AM
Good news for you :) .. thank you providing us a new capacitor model !!
Please post if you will get BS in future (it is not nice to be sooooooo sceptic BUT I do NOT rely these card too much anymore)

--

Figures would be nice, indeed :D :D :D ... having a 'proper' resolution i.e. one could see the component markings.

so the only camera i could get hold was usless [pics belows] so they show nothing, but i did a hand drawing instead :)

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/5418/untitled10cl.th.jpg (http://img19.echo.cx/my.php?image=untitled10cl.jpg)

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/6889/untitled19br.th.jpg (http://img19.echo.cx/my.php?image=untitled19br.jpg)

markiemrboo
05-06-2005, 10:39 AM
me again :D

Gonna order some more caps today or tomorrow, giving in to the insanely high postage costs :(

I found some low ESR caps rated at 105C. I guess I should go for the 16v caps here? They have a higher ripple than 10v and 6.3v, a lower impedence and low "tan" :) Before I go spending my money, do these ones sound pretty good in general? I was looking at the 16v 3300uF cap on the spec sheet.

Also, at the bottom of the specs is:



"* Impedance (max.) quoted at 20°C
**Ripple current (max.) quoted at 100kHz and 105°C
***Life expectancy quoted at 105°C"


Is it better that the ripple is measured at 100khz? Most of the others I see are rated at 120hz. Will it make much difference? 100khz is better?

SikaRippa
05-06-2005, 12:06 PM
so the only camera i could get hold was usless [pics belows] so they show nothing, but i did a hand drawing instead :)

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/5418/untitled10cl.th.jpg (http://img19.echo.cx/my.php?image=untitled10cl.jpg)

http://img19.echo.cx/img19/6889/untitled19br.th.jpg (http://img19.echo.cx/my.php?image=untitled19br.jpg)

Awesome DRAWN figure :D !! Very nice indeed.

--

By the way, do you think your card is fixed/modified afterwards ? I mean misaligned capacitors (tiny light brown components) left side from switching regulator chip (see Fig. 10, version '1b').

SikaRippa
05-06-2005, 12:40 PM
me again :D

Gonna order some more caps today or tomorrow, giving in to the insanely high postage costs :(

I found some low ESR caps rated at 105C. I guess I should go for the 16v caps here? They have a higher ripple than 10v and 6.3v, a lower impedence and low "tan" :) Before I go spending my money, do these ones sound pretty good in general? I was looking at the 16v 3300uF cap on the spec sheet.

Also, at the bottom of the specs is:



Is it better that the ripple is measured at 100khz? Most of the others I see are rated at 120hz. Will it make much difference? 100khz is better?

It is very hard to say what/how big difference will be if you would change the capacitor to better one. If the cost will be very high, I am sure you want to see better real performance increase...and it can not be guaranteed !

--

But, if you WANT better capacitors:

- It is BETTER that performance has been measured at 100kHz (vs 120Hz)
- 105 C is good
- 16 V caps give very nice ESR and ripple current values BUT are more bulky (maybe not a real problem, if capacitor is placed at bottom of the card)

Suggestion: 16 V, 3300 uF (from that list)

markiemrboo
05-06-2005, 01:37 PM
Thanks. I can't actually fit the caps on the bottom of the card anymore, as the Arctic Silencer I just fitted is massive :P My current one fits on the top just fine though, and that's a really big cap.. so size shouldn't be too much of an issue.

I am going to overclock the card tomorrow and try and keep a measurement on voltages until it freezes. I'm hoping it's due to fluctuation or something, but it could still be heat I guess. Not entirely sure where that black screen came from the other day, but it hasn't been back since I put the cap back on...

sunn
05-07-2005, 12:39 AM
Awesome DRAWN figure :D !! Very nice indeed.

--

By the way, do you think your card is fixed/modified afterwards ? I mean misaligned capacitors (tiny light brown components) left side from switching regulator chip (see Fig. 10, version '1b').

Thank You

I’m not too sure what you mean :confused:

But I did look closely at the top [back, whatever people call it] of the card, comparing it to version 1band, and there nothing like that, everything is on the straight and narrow, so I believe this card hasn’t been modified in the past.

if u have a load of money to spare, i think my old Gainward LE is being sold in the B-Grade on Overclockers (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/BGrade_Graphics_Cards.html)

markiemrboo
05-07-2005, 07:00 AM
Ah ha! I think I might be able to reproduce a black screen on my card now!!!

I was playing with some overclocking again, literally 10 seconds ago. I did something different this time though, to try and eliminate the pausing issues I was getting with higher clocks. I enabled the power user setting in RivaTuner to allow adjusting the clocks of 'low power 3d' mode. I went ahead and set both 'performance 3d' and 'low power 3d' clocks the same, that being 395MHz on the core and 890MHz on the memory. It ran through AM3 fine, then I fired up 3dmark03. 10 seconds in to the "proxycon" test (number two), it paused.... and just sat there for a couple of minute, and finally black screen and monitor went in to standby.

So, it must be trying to switch to low power 3d mode when my pausing occurs, which defaults the same as 2d clocks apparently. I wonder what exactly is telling the drivers it has to switch to low power 3d mode?

Anyway, if you need me to measure anything while it's in the black screen state, or any other tests for that matter, I will gladly help.

I'm battling with Fast Writes too. After I try a benchmark with fast writes again (it will pause I am sure, but hey..) then I will disable fastwrites and just make sure I can reproduce that black screen by setting low power and performance clocks the same! I'm pretty sure it will though...

markiemrboo
05-07-2005, 07:57 AM
I think I might have to give in and just admit that I hate nVidia. I got another black screen just now, but low power 3d and performance 3d clocks were different. The difference was, fast writes was enabled that time!

A few curious things that may be worth noting:

When fast writes does it's pausing trick, the clock speed very very briefly clocks down to low power 3d mode, apparently. If I set low power 3d and performance 3d to the same clocks when the fast writes pausing happens, rivatuner shows no bump down to a lower clock speed. When the low power 3d mode is left default, it clocks back down.

When the black screen occurs, my computer isn't totally dead. It still responds to pings! Also, I am using 'ExperTool' from Gainward to adjust my GPU fan speed. It's set to 50% in 2D mode and 100% in 3D mode. When the black screen happened, I could clearly hear the fan slow down and go in to 2D mode!!! This could mean the black screen issue is actually some sort of driver bug, especially considering I could still ping my computer.

Strange eh? Why fast writes causes pausing is beyond me. Works fine with my nForce2 board, not with my nForce3 board though. Why it's trying to go in to low power 3d mode also has me puzzled, but the fact some people have success with adding a memory capacitor might suggest it's just bad caps. No idea why it isn't doing my card any good in that case :P Perhaps the cap I added is no better than the caps already on there to start with...

SikaRippa
05-08-2005, 12:47 PM
Thank You

I’m not too sure what you mean :confused:

But I did look closely at the top [back, whatever people call it] of the card, comparing it to version 1band, and there nothing like that, everything is on the straight and narrow, so I believe this card hasn’t been modified in the past.

if u have a load of money to spare, i think my old Gainward LE is being sold in the B-Grade on Overclockers (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/BGrade_Graphics_Cards.html)

Sorry, about too bad explanation :( but I think you got the idea ! If the small capacitors are aligned properly the card is propably not fixed afterwards OR they have fixed it more accurately..

--

It might have a good idea to buy a BS-affected card for heavy-duty-testing-purposes :D . But I wonder that £145.00 (that one is yours ?) is too high cost for that purpose: removing capacitors etc. and measuring them i.e. most likely destroying the card.

SikaRippa
05-08-2005, 01:15 PM
I think I might have to give in and just admit that I hate nVidia. I got another black screen just now, but low power 3d and performance 3d clocks were different. The difference was, fast writes was enabled that time!

A few curious things that may be worth noting:

When fast writes does it's pausing trick, the clock speed very very briefly clocks down to low power 3d mode, apparently. If I set low power 3d and performance 3d to the same clocks when the fast writes pausing happens, rivatuner shows no bump down to a lower clock speed. When the low power 3d mode is left default, it clocks back down.

When the black screen occurs, my computer isn't totally dead. It still responds to pings! Also, I am using 'ExperTool' from Gainward to adjust my GPU fan speed. It's set to 50% in 2D mode and 100% in 3D mode. When the black screen happened, I could clearly hear the fan slow down and go in to 2D mode!!! This could mean the black screen issue is actually some sort of driver bug, especially considering I could still ping my computer.

Strange eh? Why fast writes causes pausing is beyond me. Works fine with my nForce2 board, not with my nForce3 board though. Why it's trying to go in to low power 3d mode also has me puzzled, but the fact some people have success with adding a memory capacitor might suggest it's just bad caps. No idea why it isn't doing my card any good in that case :P Perhaps the cap I added is no better than the caps already on there to start with...


You have made quite nice survey :D Thank you for offering help to test, indeed I have something in my mind and I will ask later later :) Do you have a capacitance measuring capability on your multimeter ?

--

I wrote soooo long story that it take time to think..

I have tested little bit with 'FastWrite' and it does not solve the problem - but it propably have some impact to BS-feature.

I think that it is possible to ping (never tested) the computer after BS. As I know, BS kills only the graphic card and at least for me the CPU is still doing something. That could also explain the fan behaviour (?)

Settings 'performance 3d' and 'low power 3d' I have never tested, but the explanation you gave make sense: the driver forces the card 'togging' between those states during e.g. 3dmark2003. And toggling between different states can cause anything..

--

I was wondering about freezes you mentioned and found following thread:

http://www.nvnews.net/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=32759&page=6&pp=15

.. there was told that main memery setting Dual Channel Mode vs. Single Channel Mode has been reported to cause freezes with 6800-cards. Do you have 'Dual Channel Mode'-memories ?

sunn
05-08-2005, 01:55 PM
No worries. i defintly think it hasnt been fixed or they did a 'proper job'

My old card seems very expensive, especially if it would be your test rat. but if you wait a week or 2 and its still there overclockers normally reduce the price by quite abit. [example they was a MSI 6800 NU in the B-Grage for £165ish and it went down to £109]

dandaman
05-09-2005, 01:18 AM
yeah, that looks like the card. but im pretty sure its a 6800le. my system identifies it as a 6800le, but maybe thats just the drivers?

I dont know. its the NX6800-TD128 from MSI, and i dont see LE attached to it in any review or tech spec online, its just that the controller software, whatever u call it (the program that allows you to set your screen and graphics settings) calls it a 6800le.

Anyway, after sending that old card back and sending the company your great guide, asking them to pleeeeeease ensure that the replacement they send doesnt have one of the suspect capacitors, they appear to have not taken ANY notice of me and sent me back a card with TWO 136/143 "4 6 470 6E" capacitors.

im not happy, as this will be the 4th LE card ive had to send back if it doesnt work....

as for the gainward 2100 duel fan, i dont know. it didnt BS, it was just so unbearably noisy i sent it back after one day.

it was driving me insane.

markiemrboo
05-09-2005, 07:56 AM
You have made quite nice survey :D Thank you for offering help to test, indeed I have something in my mind and I will ask later later :) Do you have a capacitance measuring capability on your multimeter ?

--

I wrote soooo long story that it take time to think..

I have tested little bit with 'FastWrite' and it does not solve the problem - but it propably have some impact to BS-feature.

I think that it is possible to ping (never tested) the computer after BS. As I know, BS kills only the graphic card and at least for me the CPU is still doing something. That could also explain the fan behaviour (?)

Settings 'performance 3d' and 'low power 3d' I have never tested, but the explanation you gave make sense: the driver forces the card 'togging' between those states during e.g. 3dmark2003. And toggling between different states can cause anything..

--

I was wondering about freezes you mentioned and found following thread:

http://www.nvnews.net/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=32759&page=6&pp=15

.. there was told that main memery setting Dual Channel Mode vs. Single Channel Mode has been reported to cause freezes with 6800-cards. Do you have 'Dual Channel Mode'-memories ?

I only have capacitance measurements to something small, 22uF I think. Probably no good for what you were wondering?

I think that's what's going on. 835MHz + added cap started pausing again :( I lowered my memory clocks to 820MHz and I haven't had a pause or black screen yet. Why high memory clocks (for me atleast) throttles the card and then leads to a black screen is beyond me. There's no way to stop it either by the looks of it. Looks like I may be stuck with rather crappy memory overclocks, as the added cap doesn't seem to do anything for me :( I've yet to try a higher quality cap though..

I just had an idea. I am going to install VNC (remote desktop program) and try and force a black screen. If my laptop can still connect to my computer and see the desktop, well, I dunno what I'll do then. It'll be interesting to find out if it works though :woot: :woot: :woot:

I have a Winchester and 2x512MB sticks of RAM. So, yep, Dual Channel here! Don't think my black screen/pausing problem is related to that. I can see why running Single Channel may fix the nForce3 + FastWrites pausing/stutter issue though. I'll give that one a try next time I restart :)

SikaRippa
05-09-2005, 12:33 PM
No worries. i defintly think it hasnt been fixed or they did a 'proper job'

My old card seems very expensive, especially if it would be your test rat. but if you wait a week or 2 and its still there overclockers normally reduce the price by quite abit. [example they was a MSI 6800 NU in the B-Grage for £165ish and it went down to £109]

OK.. so we have to belive it is BRAND new !

--

I might buy a test rat in future, but this price is too high for that purpose.

markiemrboo
05-09-2005, 12:47 PM
Ok I just been playing DoD for like.. 3 hours straight with no pause :D Just by lowering my memory clock a bit. I get black screens if my memory clock is higher, like 900MHz rather than ~820MHz.

I take it most people here are seeing the same thing? Black screens go away when the memory clock is lowered? But all you people get it fixed by adding a cap? This is really annoying, as the memories on my card are even rated to 900MHz! There's not even any artifacts when running at 900MHz!!! The nvidia driver just seems to want to throttle the card and I have no idea why :(

SikaRippa
05-09-2005, 12:48 PM
yeah, that looks like the card. but im pretty sure its a 6800le. my system identifies it as a 6800le, but maybe thats just the drivers?

I dont know. its the NX6800-TD128 from MSI, and i dont see LE attached to it in any review or tech spec online, its just that the controller software, whatever u call it (the program that allows you to set your screen and graphics settings) calls it a 6800le.

Anyway, after sending that old card back and sending the company your great guide, asking them to pleeeeeease ensure that the replacement they send doesnt have one of the suspect capacitors, they appear to have not taken ANY notice of me and sent me back a card with TWO 136/143 "4 6 470 6E" capacitors.

im not happy, as this will be the 4th LE card ive had to send back if it doesnt work....

as for the gainward 2100 duel fan, i dont know. it didnt BS, it was just so unbearably noisy i sent it back after one day.

it was driving me insane.

If I understood correctly you had exactly same card (in respect of those capacitors) before than now acquired from RMA ? How long it took when the first BS appeared with the your first card (days-months) ?

Have you checked with RivaTuner, how many active pipelines you have (6800 should have 12x1 and 6800le 8x1 ) ?

---

I should emphasize (again) that the logic 'certain label for capacitors c136' means BS-affected card is a THEORY. It has been seen that for some models e.g GW version 1 and 2 this theory has been worked quite well BUT e.g GW version 1b has been modified little bit AND this might have some effect (lower BS-propability or not, we will see..)

SikaRippa
05-09-2005, 01:02 PM
Ok I just been playing DoD for like.. 3 hours straight with no pause :D Just by lowering my memory clock a bit. I get black screens if my memory clock is higher, like 900MHz rather than ~820MHz.

I take it most people here are seeing the same thing? Black screens go away when the memory clock is lowered? But all you people get it fixed by adding a cap? This is really annoying, as the memories on my card are even rated to 900MHz! There's not even any artifacts when running at 900MHz!!! The nvidia driver just seems to want to throttle the card and I have no idea why :(

Some quick comments:

- Measurements: even moderate low capacitance values can be OK (I will ask later what to measure)
- VNC is nice idea to test BS over net :D (it is pity we can not generate BS under Linux, since every UNIX-machine is SOOOO easy to debug over net)
- Did you test 'Dual/singel Channel' ? The point was that some people has reported it will help when card freezes, and you had also that kind of problems (?)
- Lower memory frequency helps allways.. have you EVER got problems at normal/stock speed ?
- I think that getting 900 MHz is a sum of many factors and the driver should not be the bottleneck. E.g cooling of the memories should be optimal when running at 900 Mhz, do have you original cooler or NV5 etc (maybe you said that before, but I can not remember everything)

markiemrboo
05-09-2005, 01:17 PM
Some quick comments:

- Measurements: even moderate low capacitance values can be OK (I will ask later what to measure)
- VNC is nice idea to test BS over net :D (it is pity we can not generate BS under Linux, since every UNIX-machine is SOOOO easy to debug over net)
- Did you test 'Dual/singel Channel' ? The point was that some people has reported it will help when card freezes, and you had also that kind of problems (?)
- Lower memory frequency helps allways.. have you EVER got problems at normal/stock speed ?
- I think that getting 900 MHz is a sum of many factors and the driver should not be the bottleneck. E.g cooling of the memories should be optimal when running at 900 Mhz, do have you original cooler or NV5 etc (maybe you said that before, but I can not remember everything)

Memories are being cooled by the NV5, but the stock cooler (leadtek card) also cooled the memory aswell anyway :) Cooling shouldn't matter THAT much at 900MHz anyways, as the chips rated for 900MHz at 2.8v :P If they're anything like CPUs they should be able to run 'stock speeds' stable up till ~70C (althought not recommended)?

I don't think I got problems at stock speeds before, it's not quite as bad as some cards out there :) It does happen (alot) when I push the card though. The nvidia optimal test thing detects the memory overclock at ~830MHz, which it can't actually run without pausing.

I didn't test the dual/single channel yet. If that was supposed to help with 'fast writes' I will give it a try. But my pausing at the minute (fast writes off) is memory related :P Hmm.. I wonder if my fast writes on pausing/stuttering problem would go away if I lowered my memory overclock even more, maybe even stock speeds. I'll give that one a try too.

I've never measured a cap before :) Measure values with power off?

Actually, I did read that people get a lot of crashes and black screens with the Linux nvidia driver, but that's probably Linux driver bugs I suppose.

Guess I should get revising for my exams (in a couple of days) soon too :slobber:

dandaman
05-10-2005, 01:29 AM
the first card i had was an OEM Nvidia 6800le i got with the system. i dont know what capacitors it had. after working just fine for about 3 months it suddenly shorted my system. i took it to be looked at and the technician said it was the card at fault.

so I sent the card back. they sent me the Gainward dual fan as a replacement. I couldnt stand it.

So then they sent me the MSI card. It BS after less than 20 mins on doom and not much more on Far Cry. Plays Pro Evolution Soccer 4 just fine though.

And now..... the second MSi 6800 card they sent me, which i installed last night, BS after just 10 mins on Doom 3 and IMMEDIATELY (in seconds) on Far Cry.

I looked at the board and the four capacitors i took note of on the previous MSI board are EXACTLY the same as the four capacitors on the second replacement they sent me!!!

C 136 = 4 6 470 6E
C143 = 4 6 470 6E
C140 = 44 100 16A
C141 = 470 16 A 3EO



Could it be some other fault in my system do you think?

Im s fed up im thinking of just going for an X800.

markiemrboo
05-10-2005, 02:32 AM
Could you try something for me? Lower your memory overclock. Say, half of stock speeds to start with. Does it still black screen?

Obviously it shouldn't be black screening at stock speeds and you should probably either send it back or try the cap mod, but I want to know if lowering the memory clock solves the problem for you aswell :)

dandaman
05-10-2005, 02:46 AM
"Could you try something for me? Lower your memory overclock. Say, half of stock speeds to start with. Does it still black screen?

Obviously it shouldn't be black screening at stock speeds and you should probably either send it back or try the cap mod, but I want to know if lowering the memory clock solves the problem for you aswell"

U talking to me? Sorry, I dont know anything about changing clock speeds.

i justy ant to be able to play Doom 3!

Flib
05-10-2005, 03:18 AM
why should I use a 1000uf capacitor?
Default the card has 470uf, don't you think it would be enough to solder a high Quality Sanyo Capititor there in place?

I get my card next week, whenn I have the BS, I will resolder ALL the big capicitors und replace them by Sanyo Capacitors.

12 Capacitors are on one card, right? (I don't think SMD Caps will make any problems)

5 very big caps (violet)
2 big caps (green)
5 samller ones (black)

Someone has an idea at which value caps DEcrease performance?
Is it only a problem at power on a system?
http://www.clubic.com/photo/00107274.jpg

SikaRippa
05-10-2005, 05:20 AM
the first card i had was an OEM Nvidia 6800le i got with the system. i dont know what capacitors it had. after working just fine for about 3 months it suddenly shorted my system. i took it to be looked at and the technician said it was the card at fault.

so I sent the card back. they sent me the Gainward dual fan as a replacement. I couldnt stand it.

So then they sent me the MSI card. It BS after less than 20 mins on doom and not much more on Far Cry. Plays Pro Evolution Soccer 4 just fine though.

And now..... the second MSi 6800 card they sent me, which i installed last night, BS after just 10 mins on Doom 3 and IMMEDIATELY (in seconds) on Far Cry.

I looked at the board and the four capacitors i took note of on the previous MSI board are EXACTLY the same as the four capacitors on the second replacement they sent me!!!

C 136 = 4 6 470 6E
C143 = 4 6 470 6E
C140 = 44 100 16A
C141 = 470 16 A 3EO



Could it be some other fault in my system do you think?

Im s fed up im thinking of just going for an X800.

Thanks for complete explanation ;) .. you have been very unlucky with 6800le-cards :(

--

I think that nothing is bad with your system - except those cards, since all these models have been reported to some cases have been BS-affected (except that Gainward dual fan). Let's hope your new card will not make BS in future :)

SikaRippa
05-10-2005, 05:29 AM
Could you try something for me? Lower your memory overclock. Say, half of stock speeds to start with. Does it still black screen?

Obviously it shouldn't be black screening at stock speeds and you should probably either send it back or try the cap mod, but I want to know if lowering the memory clock solves the problem for you aswell :)

I think that was for me :D

--

There is no point for me (now) to test that, because I am now debugging 'version 1b' card which has not yet made BS. I know that the first (=very bad) version of the GW-cards were working properly having underclocking of ~500-600 MHz.

However, these issues about underclocking, RMA if you can etc. are described quite detailed in the original post ;)

SikaRippa
05-10-2005, 05:57 AM
why should I use a 1000uf capacitor?
Default the card has 470uf, don't you think it would be enough to solder a high Quality Sanyo Capititor there in place?

I get my card next week, whenn I have the BS, I will resolder ALL the big capicitors und replace them by Sanyo Capacitors.

12 Capacitors are on one card, right? (I don't think SMD Caps will make any problems)

5 very big caps (violet)
2 big caps (green)
5 samller ones (black)

Someone has an idea at which value caps DEcrease performance?
Is it only a problem at power on a system?
http://www.clubic.com/photo/00107274.jpg

I am sure that it is not required to change all the capacitors !!!

--

The capacitors that I THINK might be bad components are c136 and c143 (having green labels), and since they are connected parallel the total capacitance is ~ 1000 uF. Modified cards (see e.g XFX-card in post #1) are using larger values, therefore it is suggested that larger value is better.

I have been thinking A LOT what kind of capacitors would be good enough for
that purpose and I am not still sure.. There are much more 'moving parts' in that circuit, that I thought at the starting point. At least following aspect are critical:

- Very low ESR ( value of < 0.05 ohm, I do not know exact value yet)
- Very high ripple current (value > 1 A , I do not know exact value yet)
- Capacitance value 470 uF (or higher BUT very high value causes other problems..)

I am working all the time to make good specs, but it is not easy beacause I found
very stange aspects that have to be re-checked (I will post this info soon...)

--

Before make that modification please post following details:

- What is your card model/version
- What labels there are at top of those "c136 and c143" caps e.g. "4 8 470 6E"
- What kind of Sanyo capacitors you are going to use (the one I mentioned ??), AND how you can obtain those in small volumes ( I have not yet found a place :p: ) !

markiemrboo
05-10-2005, 06:26 AM
I think that was for me :D

--

There is no point for me (now) to test that, because I am now debugging 'version 1b' card which has not yet made BS. I know that the first (=very bad) version of the GW-cards were working properly having underclocking of ~500-600 MHz.

However, these issues about underclocking, RMA if you can etc. are described quite detailed in the original post ;)

Ah ha :D Ok.

As for the Sanyo caps, there's actually 50x Sanyo 1500uF / 10v / 105C capacitors on ebay at the moment :o The can size looks massive from the pictures. No specs listed though.

There's also some 'Sanyo OSCON' caps on there, 220uF / 10v .. the specs are:

3370mA
27Ohm @ 300kHz

Any good?

SikaRippa
05-10-2005, 06:40 AM
Ah ha :D Ok.

As for the Sanyo caps, there's actually 50x Sanyo 1500uF / 10v / 105C capacitors on ebay at the moment :o The can size looks massive from the pictures. No specs listed though.

There's also some 'Sanyo OSCON' caps on there, 220uF / 10v .. the specs are:

3370mA
27Ohm @ 300kHz

Any good?

You mean these ?

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=50598&item=5773393167&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=4662&item=7514933634&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

.. I think no good for replacement for the originals, because they are leaded (bulky) components (=hard to place etc.). I wonder those should be ~ same size, SMD-components like shown in here:

http://www.semicom.co.uk/manufacturer/sanyo/sanyo_oscon/oscon_products_svp.html

markiemrboo
05-10-2005, 10:37 AM
Yeah those, well, the first link isn't the exact ones I found but very similar.

Are you going to go all the way and actually replace the [believed to be] faulty caps now?

SikaRippa
05-10-2005, 12:09 PM
Yeah those, well, the first link isn't the exact ones I found but very similar.

Are you going to go all the way and actually replace the [believed to be] faulty caps now?

No at least now.. I have to solve some/many aspects before I will modify anything (e.g. capacitor specifications !), and therefore a unmodified card is required.

SikaRippa
05-10-2005, 01:58 PM
!!!! Version 1.5 of the document has been posted !!!!

- A noisy audio due to GF6800 has been investigated
- Provides a very easy way to test by LISTENING if something is wrong with the card ..

dandaman
05-11-2005, 01:41 AM
thanks! i feel better. im scared the returns dept at this company will start to accuse me of time wasting and say it must be my system.... :mad:

the dual fan gainward didnt BS, but it only lasted an hour in my system because i couldnt hear myself think

SikaRippa
05-11-2005, 02:05 AM
thanks! i feel better. im scared the returns dept at this company will start to accuse me of time wasting and say it must be my system.... :mad:

the dual fan gainward didnt BS, but it only lasted an hour in my system because i couldnt hear myself think

It is wierd that they (=that company) have not heard about BS-feature, because so many are complaining !!

--

Could you make a noisy audio test (see my previos post and updated#1) with MSI-card, in order to clarify the differences between GW and MSI ? It is very easy to perform and NO modifications is required.

markiemrboo
05-11-2005, 04:01 AM
Sika, the audio test... I think you may find it interesting to know that I seem to have this problem, I think.

I don't have a cd audio cable, the noise doesn't come through my speakers. It comes from the actual card? There's no weird noises (high pitched squealy noises) when the card is idle, as far as I can hear, but when I start something 3D some funny high pitch noises seem to come from the card.

Is this the same thing you're talking about? I always assumed this was normal. My other Leadtek 6800 also makes these noises... but I don't know if that one black screens. Haven't had time to test. It has '44 470 6E' caps.

EDIT: By the way, your sound links dont work :(



Angelfire does not allow direct linking
from offsite, non-Angelfire pages,
to files hosted on Angelfire.

This practice of 'remote linking' reduces
our ability to serve out the homepages
of our members quickly and efficiently.

SikaRippa
05-11-2005, 04:32 AM
Sika, the audio test... I think you may find it interesting to know that I seem to have this problem, I think.

I don't have a cd audio cable, the noise doesn't come through my speakers. It comes from the actual card? There's no weird noises (high pitched squealy noises) when the card is idle, as far as I can hear, but when I start something 3D some funny high pitch noises seem to come from the card.

Is this the same thing you're talking about? I always assumed this was normal. My other Leadtek 6800 also makes these noises... but I don't know if that one black screens. Haven't had time to test. It has '44 470 6E' caps.

EDIT: By the way, your sound links dont work :(



That is most likely the same problem, since I could heard the noise when listening near the card. I wonder what part is acting as a loudspeker ;) ?? In the case I explained above the noise is connected by molex-cable, because of taking it off removes also noise - at loudspeakers.

Anyway, you test proves that this is a common feature of BS-cards and maybe also feature of BS-cards-in-future !!!!!

--

I know those **** -links.. it is angelfire again ! I managed to download them by copying the link and paste it a new window - not so nice but working !

markiemrboo
05-11-2005, 04:40 AM
Copy pasting the link in a new window ( tab actually ;) ) worked.

Those noises seem really bad on yours, oerhaps not the same thing I am experiencing? The noise actually comes out of your speakers aswell? Mine makes noises, but not as bad as what I heard from your recording ;)

SikaRippa
05-11-2005, 04:58 AM
Copy pasting the link in a new window ( tab actually ;) ) worked.

Those noises seem really bad on yours, oerhaps not the same thing I am experiencing? The noise actually comes out of your speakers aswell? Mine makes noises, but not as bad as what I heard from your recording ;)

Please, note that I amplified those signals VERY MUCH and only the frequency variation is relevant. These noise signals have been recorder by connecting mic-input directly to audio-out.

Could you get an audio cable and make a test ;) I wonder these cables can be found everywhere e.g. packaged usually with a CD-player.

markiemrboo
05-11-2005, 05:07 AM
I think I have an audio cable laying about somewhere. I'm not entirely sure if my motherboard onboard sound/soundcard ( not your regular Audigy2, Audiotrak Prodigy here :P ) even has the pins for the cable though. I don't remember seeing them before...

I'll have a look and get back to you shortly.

markiemrboo
05-11-2005, 05:10 AM
My onboard sound has the 'CD-IN' pins. I'll try and find a cable, switch back to onboard sound with some headphones, and see what happens...

Flib
05-11-2005, 05:46 AM
I can get 200pieces for 15€

Ratings:
10V 1500uf

dandaman
05-11-2005, 08:21 AM
the MSI is really quiet. barely audible. thats a plus point.

the gainward is loud enough to be heard in the next room with the door shut. and my speakrs have to be on pretty load to drown out the racket.

but thats about as scientific a response as i can give because ive removed both cards and have no intention of inserting either of them again. sorry

markiemrboo
05-11-2005, 08:22 AM
the MSI is really quiet. barely audible. thats a plus point.

the gainward is loud enough to be heard in the next room with the door shut. and my speakrs have to be on pretty load to drown out the racket.

but thats about as scientific a response as i can give because ive removed both cards and have no intention of inserting either of them again. sorry

He wasn't actually talking about fan noise :P

I can't find a CD audio cable, so all I can say is that mines makes some strange high pitch noises somewhere from the card.

SikaRippa
05-11-2005, 09:46 PM
the MSI is really quiet. barely audible. thats a plus point.

the gainward is loud enough to be heard in the next room with the door shut. and my speakrs have to be on pretty load to drown out the racket.

but thats about as scientific a response as i can give because ive removed both cards and have no intention of inserting either of them again. sorry

Yes, as markiemrboo commented this is different issue in addtion to a poor fan of GW-cards.

There are a number noise sources in every PC, thus this extra noise is hard to identify even if you exactly know what you are looking for. You can imagine how long it took for me to find out the mechanism or logic behind this problem ....

If you want to help/test it in a proper manner, please follow the instructions in post #1.

dandaman
05-12-2005, 01:37 AM
oh yeah, i did have some strange whining noises coming out of my speakers for a while. i never imagined it was due to the card tho.

I figured it was due to either some kind of interference from the mess of wires round the back of the pc, so i tidied them up. it made no diference.

then i thought it might be the cordless phone my wife insusted on putting next to the speakers. so i moved it and it stopped.

SikaRippa
05-12-2005, 02:18 AM
oh yeah, i did have some strange whining noises coming out of my speakers for a while. i never imagined it was due to the card tho.

I figured it was due to either some kind of interference from the mess of wires round the back of the pc, so i tidied them up. it made no diference.

then i thought it might be the cordless phone my wife insusted on putting next to the speakers. so i moved it and it stopped.

So this odd noise is quite common feature ! Do you still have that sound with your new MSI ?

SikaRippa
05-12-2005, 02:22 AM
I can get 200pieces for 15€

Ratings:
10V 1500uf

Not so high price, could you specify exact code for those caps (are they 'Sanyo SVP'-model) ?

bertos
05-12-2005, 08:05 AM
Hi! I'm new one here and my English isn't so good as it should be,so sorry for some mistakes I'd might make here :)

Nice job SikaRippa !!! This post answers some questions, or at least gives a way to find a soultion for this 6800LE problems.
I only want to describe my case and share with you all with my observations. I also ask you for eventually answers or comments about it. I've got GW 2100LE, with the capacitors marked as: 43 470 6E, and I don't expierience these BSs! I can run 3D mark 2003 (2005) many times, I can play some 3D games (Half Life2, SWAT 4, Toca2 etc., Far Cry, Splinter Cell 3 etc.) and nothing – no BS. I run also at overclocked card (355/810 Mhz, 12p,6v) and all is OK. But one thing bothers me, and it happens randomly. Especially when the card is overclocked, and especially in FarCry and Splinter Cell 3 – I get these “hang ups” with very high and annoying noise in loudspeakers. The game freezes for few seconds, and mainly freezes for good (Splinter...), sometimes it goes further (FarCry). Always I am able to back to the desktop though. As I said – I run on 4 unblocked pipelines and higher then default freqs. but it happened on default parameters as well.
What do you think about it? Is my card faulty? What should I do next?

Thanks and best regards...

Flib
05-12-2005, 10:47 AM
Sanyo SAY Model

Kondensator, Sanyo, Elko, 1500uF/10V (PE=200Stk) SAY-0002
Typ: 10MV1500WGL
8x20 mm, RM 3,5, high quality, 105 GradC

are they fine?

SikaRippa
05-12-2005, 01:11 PM
Hi! I'm new one here and my English isn't so good as it should be,so sorry for some mistakes I'd might make here :)

Nice job SikaRippa !!! This post answers some questions, or at least gives a way to find a soultion for this 6800LE problems.
I only want to describe my case and share with you all with my observations. I also ask you for eventually answers or comments about it. I've got GW 2100LE, with the capacitors marked as: 43 470 6E, and I don't expierience these BSs! I can run 3D mark 2003 (2005) many times, I can play some 3D games (Half Life2, SWAT 4, Toca2 etc., Far Cry, Splinter Cell 3 etc.) and nothing – no BS. I run also at overclocked card (355/810 Mhz, 12p,6v) and all is OK. But one thing bothers me, and it happens randomly. Especially when the card is overclocked, and especially in FarCry and Splinter Cell 3 – I get these “hang ups” with very high and annoying noise in loudspeakers. The game freezes for few seconds, and mainly freezes for good (Splinter...), sometimes it goes further (FarCry). Always I am able to back to the desktop though. As I said – I run on 4 unblocked pipelines and higher then default freqs. but it happened on default parameters as well.
What do you think about it? Is my card faulty? What should I do next?

Thanks and best regards...

Hi ! Do not worry about language, I am not also native English speaker and wonder the guide might be 'very bad language' for native speakers - but I do not care, since the most important think (for me) is the information itself !

--

Wierd features indeed.. could you specify following details:


- Have you 'AGP Fast Write' off or on ? (It is set usually in bios). There has been some freezing problems with some 6800-card when 'Fast Write' = on
- Is you card looking like the figures posted (which one) ? If not could you post a figure of it OR provide a link to web-page having such figure OR explain what is different comparing those cards ?
- Have you used the card for a long time ?
- Do you think that the noise is similar to those examples ?
- IMPORTANT ONE: when card hangs, is the noise high or low frequency ???

It is interesting that you have encourted quite similar freezing features than 'markiemrboo' (see posts above), it would be nice to know wheather your card has also *fixed* like 'GW version 1b'. I am just wondering IF this fix would remove BS, but makes card freeze sometimes (????).

SikaRippa
05-12-2005, 01:21 PM
Sanyo SAY Model

Kondensator, Sanyo, Elko, 1500uF/10V (PE=200Stk) SAY-0002
Typ: 10MV1500WGL
8x20 mm, RM 3,5, high quality, 105 GradC

are they fine?

These, I suppose:

http://www.sanyo.com/industrial/electronic_components/capacitors/aluminum/radial_lead/downloads/mv-wg.pdf

.. and you are considering one having size of 8x20 (mm), ripple current of 1870 mA and ESR 19 mohm (?) . Electrical performance (ESR, current) could be proper ((I have not yet managed to make final specs, reason = I have to sleep & REAL work *sometimes*, bad habits I know :D )) but the inductance due to leads might be too high. Therefore, I myself would not test with leaded components, but the same kind of surface mounted components (=physical size) that originals.

dandaman
05-13-2005, 06:55 AM
no. i got rid of it before i got the msi though.

markiemrboo
05-13-2005, 12:36 PM
How about these:

http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010&CTL_CAT_CODE=31196&STK_PROD_CODE=M71100&XPAGENO=1

Just looked a bit more, these seem better:

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0971783166.1116017656@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddehjgmgdjcefeceefdffhdgli.0&cacheID=uknetscape&3293470503=3293470503&catoid=-668809231

I hear panasonic caps are supposed to be pretty good quality

SikaRippa
05-14-2005, 12:38 PM
no. i got rid of it before i got the msi though.

Ok. However, noise can be very hard to heard since it is sometimes very quiet (especially when CD-player has low current consumption)

SikaRippa
05-14-2005, 12:46 PM
How about these:

http://www.rapidelectronics.co.uk/rkmain.asp?PAGEID=80010&CTL_CAT_CODE=31196&STK_PROD_CODE=M71100&XPAGENO=1

Just looked a bit more, these seem better:

http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/browse/Module.jsp?BV_SessionID=@@@@0971783166.1116017656@ @@@&BV_EngineID=cccdaddehjgmgdjcefeceefdffhdgli.0&cacheID=uknetscape&3293470503=3293470503&catoid=-668809231

I hear panasonic caps are supposed to be pretty good quality

First one does not have all required specs and I could not open second one, you were logged to that page (?). Could you give a specific code for those caps ?
Panasonic is usually a good brand, but here are required soooooo good caps that even all capacitors from them can not meet requirements.

--

Are you still ready to measure caps ;) ? If you are.. then I'll try to post a figure for test points in few days..

bertos
05-14-2005, 12:47 PM
Originally posted by SikaRippa
- Have you 'AGP Fast Write' off or on ? (It is set usually in bios). There has been some freezing problems with some 6800-card when 'Fast Write' = on
- Is you card looking like the figures posted (which one) ? If not could you post a figure of it OR provide a link to web-page having such figure OR explain what is different comparing those cards ?
- Have you used the card for a long time ?
- Do you think that the noise is similar to those examples ?
- IMPORTANT ONE: when card hangs, is the noise high or low frequency ???

It is interesting that you have encourted quite similar freezing features than 'markiemrboo' (see posts above), it would be nice to know wheather your card has also *fixed* like 'GW version 1b'. I am just wondering IF this fix would remove BS, but makes card freeze sometimes (????).

Hi!
So, I have FastWrites turned On, cause it has a postive influence on 3D efficiency, and I tried it with FW Off as well, and these "hang ups" showed up anyway.
My card looks like this on figure 1 (it has written "Made in Taiwan") but I don't know if there may be some differences. I could post a photo, but tell my how should I do it please ;)
I'm using this card for 7 months now!
The noise during freezes does not come from the card, only from loudspeakers. It is something like you where rapidly increasing and decreasing the volume with extremley short delays... However It looks like the card itself gives some quiet squeaks during normal work :confused:

Best regards

markiemrboo
05-14-2005, 01:43 PM
First one does not have all required specs and I could not open second one, you were logged to that page (?). Could you give a specific code for those caps ?
Panasonic is usually a good brand, but here are required soooooo good caps that even all capacitors from them can not meet requirements.

--

Are you still ready to measure caps ;) ? If you are.. then I'll try to post a figure for test points in few days..

Ah, the second link I wasn't actually logged in. Their site just overly uses sessions. The specs of those caps are as follows:



* Low impedance ( 40 to 60 % less than FC series)

* Miniaturisation (30 to 50% less than FC series)

* Life time: 2000 to 5000 hours at 105 °C

technical specification

Temperature range -55 to + 105 °C
Capacitor tolerance ± 20%
Leakage current I = 0.01 CV or 3 ( µA) whichever is greater

technical specification

Volt Value tan Ripple impedance Dia. Length
µF q mA Ω @ 100kHz mm mm
16V 10 0.16 90 1.35 4 5.8
16V 22 0.16 90 1.35 4 5.8
16V 47 0.16 160 0.7 5 5.8
16V 100 0.16 240 0.36 6.3 5.8
16V 220 0.16 300 0.26 8 6.2
16V 470 0.16 600 0.16 8 10.2
25V 10 0.14 90 1.35 4 5.8
25V 47 0.14 240 0.36 6.3 5.8
25V 100 0.14 300 0.26 8 6.2
25V 220 0.14 600 0.16 8 10.2
25V 470 0.14 850 0.08 10 10.2
35V 10 0.12 90 1.35 4 5.8
35V 22 0.12 160 0.7 5 5.8
35V 47 0.12 240 0.36 6.3 5.8
35V 100 0.12 600 0.16 8 10.2
35V 220 0.12 600 0.16 8 10.2
50V 10 0.1 85 1.52 5 5.8
50V 22 0.1 165 0.88 6.3 5.8
50V 47 0.1 195 0.68 8 6.2
50V 100 0.1 350 0.34 8 10.2
50V 220 0.1 670 0.18 10 10.2
50V 1000 0.1 1610 0.073 16 16.5
100V 47 0.07 500 0.32 12.5 13.5
100V 220 0.07 917 0.153 18 16.5


Hope that's readable enough?

Sure, I am still willing to measure things. When measuring, should I do measurements while the card is working find and while it's in a black screen state? I have an exam Monday, but then I have a couple of weeks until my next ones. So, probly won't be able to get you any results until sometime Monday/Tuesday. Is that ok?

SikaRippa
05-14-2005, 11:41 PM
Ah, the second link I wasn't actually logged in. Their site just overly uses sessions. The specs of those caps are as follows:



* Low impedance ( 40 to 60 % less than FC series)

* Miniaturisation (30 to 50% less than FC series)

* Life time: 2000 to 5000 hours at 105 °C

technical specification

Temperature range -55 to + 105 °C
Capacitor tolerance ± 20%
Leakage current I = 0.01 CV or 3 ( µA) whichever is greater

technical specification

Volt Value tan Ripple impedance Dia. Length
µF q mA Ω @ 100kHz mm mm
16V 10 0.16 90 1.35 4 5.8
16V 22 0.16 90 1.35 4 5.8
16V 47 0.16 160 0.7 5 5.8
16V 100 0.16 240 0.36 6.3 5.8
16V 220 0.16 300 0.26 8 6.2
16V 470 0.16 600 0.16 8 10.2
25V 10 0.14 90 1.35 4 5.8
25V 47 0.14 240 0.36 6.3 5.8
25V 100 0.14 300 0.26 8 6.2
25V 220 0.14 600 0.16 8 10.2
25V 470 0.14 850 0.08 10 10.2
35V 10 0.12 90 1.35 4 5.8
35V 22 0.12 160 0.7 5 5.8
35V 47 0.12 240 0.36 6.3 5.8
35V 100 0.12 600 0.16 8 10.2
35V 220 0.12 600 0.16 8 10.2
50V 10 0.1 85 1.52 5 5.8
50V 22 0.1 165 0.88 6.3 5.8
50V 47 0.1 195 0.68 8 6.2
50V 100 0.1 350 0.34 8 10.2
50V 220 0.1 670 0.18 10 10.2
50V 1000 0.1 1610 0.073 16 16.5
100V 47 0.07 500 0.32 12.5 13.5
100V 220 0.07 917 0.153 18 16.5


Hope that's readable enough?

Sure, I am still willing to measure things. When measuring, should I do measurements while the card is working find and while it's in a black screen state? I have an exam Monday, but then I have a couple of weeks until my next ones. So, probly won't be able to get you any results until sometime Monday/Tuesday. Is that ok?


Thank you providing those specs ... hard to say if thay are good enough !! I am worring about too low 'Ripple' values for current.

--

I hope that I am able to refine those specs, before that I CAN NOT say which capacitors would be good replacement (IF those should be replaced at all ..)

--

DO NOT STRESS with measurements, if you can make those it is fine even take some time :)

((I am very busy too and maybe I have no time to finish that figure for measurements soon...))

bertos
05-15-2005, 01:19 AM
S..t!!! Finally I've got it! BS, I think! :mad:
I played Splinter Cell Chaos Theory and after 30 min. I've got this "hang up" again. But few seconds later screen went black and I had no choice but to reset the system. However, the sound went back to normal (I've heard normal background from the game), monitor didn't go to suspend mode and I saw the mouse pointer, but pressing Alt+F3 or Alt+Tab was useless, I wasn't able to go back to the desktop (for the first time!) :(

I'm back now to stock clock settings but on 12p,6v config. I'll see if this will be better. The funny thing is (and I've forgot to mention it in the first place) that for some time (after the first OS reinstalling, when I had my GW 2100Le for about 2 months) the drivers, Riva Tuner and Power Strip are showing that for me the default frequencies are: 325/745 !!! Where normally it should be 300/700!

Please advise!

regards

markiemrboo
05-15-2005, 03:16 AM
Thank you providing those specs ... hard to say if thay are good enough !! I am worring about too low 'Ripple' values for current.

--

I hope that I am able to refine those specs, before that I CAN NOT say which capacitors would be good replacement (IF those should be replaced at all ..)

--

DO NOT STRESS with measurements, if you can make those it is fine even take some time :)

((I am very busy too and maybe I have no time to finish that figure for measurements soon...))

I did notice the low ripple values too. I figured the caps on there would probably be about the same kind of specs though. Anyway, they're the closest things I can find to what is already on the card. Well, in the UK anyway :)

I'll wait for your figure and see what happens with the measurements before I go trying to swap caps around though :banana:

---

That black screen is an interesting one. The fact that you could see your mouse pointer makes it sound even more like the driver is doing something odd. What driver version are you using? What about DirectX version? DirectX 9.0C?

I've installed VNC on my machine finally, so after my exam I will force it to a black screen and see if I can still connect :)

bertos
05-15-2005, 04:41 AM
I'm using 71.89 dirver and DirectX 9.0C (OS: WinXp HE with SP2)... All looks well, other games go OK (eg. SWAT, Brothers in Arms). But FarCry and Splinter 3 do not :( Maybe it is related to the Pixel Sahders 3.0 somehow ? I don't know what to think about it all. Is this only a soft problem or I am an owner of defected card too :( ...

markiemrboo
05-15-2005, 06:14 AM
I'm using 71.89 dirver and DirectX 9.0C (OS: WinXp HE with SP2)... All looks well, other games go OK (eg. SWAT, Brothers in Arms). But FarCry and Splinter 3 do not :( Maybe it is related to the Pixel Sahders 3.0 somehow ? I don't know what to think about it all. Is this only a soft problem or I am an owner of defected card too :( ...

I don't think anyone is entirely sure why it's happening. I personally think that the black screen is some sort of driver bug. What's causing it to get to that state though seems to be related to the actual hardware, specifically the memory, on these NU/LE cards. I don't think I have heard of a GT or Ultra with the black screen problem and I can stop my black screens and pausing by lowering my memory overclock.

Is your problem reproducable? Will it always black screen after a certain period of time whilst playing FarCry and SC3? You could see if lowering your memory clock speeds helps to get rid of the problem. Otherwise, give the extra capacitor mod a try :)

bertos
05-15-2005, 06:57 AM
Unfortunately I don't have so much time to spent few hours a day by the computer ;) to check if some settings are better then another and to be sure that this is for real, but after seven months with this card I'd might say that this is rather random, however playing with lower clocks (eg. 325/745) is safer. But I'm not sure, because sometimes it happens anyway... Driver and its version has nothing to do with this (it happend from ForceWare 66.81 up to today's 71.89)...
I'm a little bit angry already, because I've spent almost 350 Euro for this card, and now, from your expirience, I see that I must to help myself alone by some modifications, cause Gainward even doesn't want to give an official statement about it !
One thing bothers me yet. Could you advise, how to be sure, that in my case the reason are faulty caps as you described ? (I must admit that I'm pretty "green" as far as all these electronical details are concerned ;) )

markiemrboo
05-15-2005, 08:34 AM
One thing bothers me yet. Could you advise, how to be sure, that in my case the reason are faulty caps as you described ? (I must admit that I'm pretty "green" as far as all these electronical details are concerned ;) )

Me too :) I'm capable of soldering and bits and pieces to do some of the simpler volt mods, but that's about it!

Adding the cap hasn't helped me overclock my card any higher. It seemed to stop my pauses at the same memory clocks for a day or two, then they just came back again :(

It seems that other people have had success fixing the problem though, so it might be worth giving it a try. Post from earlier in the thread:



I Just wanted to say a BIG Wooping Thx you for posting this solution!!!

The TP 9/TP 10 cap mod works like a charm on my GW ver.1 6800LE card!!
My card had BS problems running 16/6@300/700. I could run it at 300/491 without BS but that kinda sucks... so this post came like Mana from the heaven's.

I bought a 1000uf/16v cap at the local tv-repair shop and went home to try it out. Doing the TP9/TP10 mod was a walk in the park, just pushed the cap into the holes and installed the card into the box again... I must say that i was a little nervous when I pushed the power-button... But no worry's man! It worked like a charm

I've been playing games that BS'ed my card for 3 days now and not a singel BS

So if you ever find yourself in Norway, send me an email and I'll

Thx again Sikarippa, good work!


Stoneheart
Last edited by stoneheart : 04-19-2005 at 09:25 AM.

SikaRippa
05-15-2005, 12:11 PM
S..t!!! Finally I've got it! BS, I think! :mad:
I played Splinter Cell Chaos Theory and after 30 min. I've got this "hang up" again. But few seconds later screen went black and I had no choice but to reset the system. However, the sound went back to normal (I've heard normal background from the game), monitor didn't go to suspend mode and I saw the mouse pointer, but pressing Alt+F3 or Alt+Tab was useless, I wasn't able to go back to the desktop (for the first time!) :(

I'm back now to stock clock settings but on 12p,6v config. I'll see if this will be better. The funny thing is (and I've forgot to mention it in the first place) that for some time (after the first OS reinstalling, when I had my GW 2100Le for about 2 months) the drivers, Riva Tuner and Power Strip are showing that for me the default frequencies are: 325/745 !!! Where normally it should be 300/700!

Please advise!

regards

I have seen so many BS's, so I think that when you still can hear some sound or/and see a mouse pointer it is NOT BS, but something else. Also freezing is not BS but only a complete shut down. BS is hardware problem, simply because so many people (like me) has encountered it with a number of computers/software/drivers/etc - and it is allways the same.

Maybe you and markiemrboo have the same (new) different problem ??

--

Have you made a BS-test with Skiapline-demo (see instructions in first post)?
If possible DO it, beacuse GW6800le version 1 -cards USUALLY make BS with the test. I think you should have that version, because it is over half year old and has "4 3 470 6E"-caps.

--

'The faulty caps' is JUST a theory and I am (now) investiging what OTHER aspects (=components) can cause BS. Even if the theory is correct SOME/MANY capacitances having certain codes CAN meet the specifications - we have seen that e.g cards having "4 8 470 6E'-caps run very well when new, but fail after some (2,3,?) months.

--

About figure of your card.. if you think it is exactly the same as in document, maybe is not required. But if you have a better quality figure it could be inserted to document... if you have: please comment and I will send a private message for you with instructions.

SikaRippa
05-15-2005, 12:24 PM
I did notice the low ripple values too. I figured the caps on there would probably be about the same kind of specs though. Anyway, they're the closest things I can find to what is already on the card. Well, in the UK anyway :)

I'll wait for your figure and see what happens with the measurements before I go trying to swap caps around though :banana:

---

That black screen is an interesting one. The fact that you could see your mouse pointer makes it sound even more like the driver is doing something odd. What driver version are you using? What about DirectX version? DirectX 9.0C?

I've installed VNC on my machine finally, so after my exam I will force it to a black screen and see if I can still connect :)


Getting GOOD quality caps (in small volumes) is a challange :) I have requested samples for very good caps (i.e. for free :D :D) - we will see wheather they will send them !

--

Yes, I think is not good idea to change caps before having very good caps and final specs for them. Moreover, when we have investigated the capacitance measurement results between 'GW version 1b' and other cards - it might be possible to find out more clever modification. I am now 101 % sure that they have mofied the feedback of the swithing regulator for 'GW version 1b' (see misaligned capacitors in #1). And that modification can be answer to prevent BS even when having those green caps (c136..) !!!

markiemrboo
05-15-2005, 01:03 PM
I have seen so many BS's, so I think that when you still can hear some sound or/and see a mouse pointer it is NOT BS, but something else. Also freezing is not BS but only a complete shut down. BS is hardware problem, simply because so many people (like me) has encountered it with a number of computers/software/drivers/etc - and it is allways the same.

Maybe you and markiemrboo have the same (new) different problem ??

--

Have you made a BS-test with Skiapline-demo (see instructions in first post)?
If possible DO it, beacuse GW6800le version 1 -cards USUALLY make BS with the test. I think you should have that version, because it is over half year old and has "4 3 470 6E"-caps.

--

'The faulty caps' is JUST a theory and I am (now) investiging what OTHER aspects (=components) can cause BS. Even if the theory is correct SOME/MANY capacitances having certain codes CAN meet the specifications - we have seen that e.g cards having "4 8 470 6E'-caps run very well when new, but fail after some (2,3,?) months.

--

About figure of your card.. if you think it is exactly the same as in document, maybe is not required. But if you have a better quality figure it could be inserted to document... if you have: please comment and I will send a private message for you with instructions.

Well, I don't have a mouse pointer visible. All I know is that the only way out of the black screen I have been able to find is hitting the reset button! I'm pretty sure it's the same problem? Do you have a card that you can force to a black screen? Are you able to ping that machine while it's sitting black screened?

Just had another thought. Maybe turning off monitor power savings might stop it going to a black screen? The black screen is actually my monitor going in to standby... do you have the monitor set to go to standby when idle for X minutes?

SikaRippa
05-15-2005, 01:27 PM
Well, I don't have a mouse pointer visible. All I know is that the only way out of the black screen I have been able to find is hitting the reset button! I'm pretty sure it's the same problem? Do you have a card that you can force to a black screen? Are you able to ping that machine while it's sitting black screened?

Just had another thought. Maybe turning off monitor power savings might stop it going to a black screen? The black screen is actually my monitor going in to standby... do you have the monitor set to go to standby when idle for X minutes?

Still awake ;) (In Finland it is already monday now..)

--

Yep. The mouse pointer comment was for Bertos - I think he is only one with THAT feature (?)

I do not have BS-card right now, so it can not tested. For me the BS's have not been like monitor standby. It is easy to proof: the measured voltages before and after BS in certain TP's are different and those indicates that card has been shut down. In the datasheet for the switching regulator there is mentioned that from that kind of state the only way out is having hard reset for supply voltages - which can be only obtained by switching PC OFF/ON i.e. it can not be wake up by software.

What do you think, could you measure e.g. memory voltage after BS (or during freeze)?

markiemrboo
05-15-2005, 02:04 PM
lol yep! It's 11pm here. Gonna go to bed after I write this most likely :)

Well if your voltages are different than when it isn't black screened, I think it may well be both of us having something a little different. When mine's black screened, the extra capacitor reads 2.78v like it should do, but since my problem seems memory related that's the only voltage I measured. From your little table on page 1 it looks like TP9 and 10 should be dead in the black screen state though! The newer revision card still has a voltage on TP10, but that doesn't black screen!

I guess this must be something different that I am getting then? How very odd! Well, looks like we now have two totally different types of black screens with these cards then I guess :)

dandaman
05-16-2005, 02:34 AM
does anybody know if the Gainward PowerPack! UL/2100 TV-DVI GF6800 128MB
Gainward 471846200-6084 has suffered from BS?

and if noit, how noisy is the fan on that?

markiemrboo
05-16-2005, 04:17 AM
http://www.nvnews.net/reviews/gainward_geforce_6800_golden_sample/page7.shtml

Looks like there are two versions of that 'pack' thing. One with the dual fan cooler and one with a quieter reference style cooler.

SikaRippa
05-16-2005, 05:31 AM
lol yep! It's 11pm here. Gonna go to bed after I write this most likely :)

Well if your voltages are different than when it isn't black screened, I think it may well be both of us having something a little different. When mine's black screened, the extra capacitor reads 2.78v like it should do, but since my problem seems memory related that's the only voltage I measured. From your little table on page 1 it looks like TP9 and 10 should be dead in the black screen state though! The newer revision card still has a voltage on TP10, but that doesn't black screen!

I guess this must be something different that I am getting then? How very odd! Well, looks like we now have two totally different types of black screens with these cards then I guess :)

I think it is quite clear if you can measure correct Vmem after BS: it is a 'different' BS.

--

By the way that 'version 1b'-card is measured has (or had I fixed it :D ) MANUFACTURING FAULT and therefore voltages were too high - I will post details in next update.

SikaRippa
05-16-2005, 05:36 AM
http://www.nvnews.net/reviews/gainward_geforce_6800_golden_sample/page7.shtml

Looks like there are two versions of that 'pack' thing. One with the dual fan cooler and one with a quieter reference style cooler.

I found exactly the same figures before, but I put only the 'one fan' version to the document (Fig 6) and it seems (?) to have "4 3 470 6E" caps = might be BS-affected. Figure for the dual fan was so poor that I could not get the values for caps. This card might be quite rare since only a few figures/comments can be found..

SikaRippa
05-16-2005, 01:35 PM
A version 1.6 has been posted !!!

- EASY memory voltage modification
- Comments about 'GW version 1b' -card with manufacturing fault - that was the reason WHY memory voltage values were too high level

dandaman
05-19-2005, 01:01 AM
thanks, yes ive seen there are two version. im interested in the single fan one but Im afraid it might BS on me.

Anybody got that card?

dandaman
05-19-2005, 01:03 AM
well the company im dealing with have both Gainward version in stock, and plenty of them.

i am concerned about BS on the single fan version

i may just pay an extra 70 quid and get the Galaxy Glacier 6800GT. any reports of problems with that? Or maybe with a AMD 64 3200 + CPU it wouldnt be worth it?

SikaRippa
05-19-2005, 01:47 PM
well the company im dealing with have both Gainward version in stock, and plenty of them.

i am concerned about BS on the single fan version

i may just pay an extra 70 quid and get the Galaxy Glacier 6800GT. any reports of problems with that? Or maybe with a AMD 64 3200 + CPU it wouldnt be worth it?

I wonder that anybody can guarantee wheather those will give (or not) BS in future since nobody has been reported anything about those versions (as I know).

If you consider GW 'version 2': those cards are working at first very well, BUT many users are complaining about BS after some months. The very wierd version 1b seems to be modified afterwards (see comments in #1), BUT it is not yet shown to be BS-affected (used ~1 month). How long this version will survive without BS (forever???). The reasons why I am very suspicious of this model are:

- This model generates exactly the same noisy audio as other versions (=switching regulator is not working very well)
- Quite same capacitors (c136 & c143) are used as an output filter and only little modifications were carried out at the feedback loop

Are those two models you reported similar to these version (nobody knows..)???

--

I suggest that if you want to be sure not to get BS and you have extra 70$ go for Galaxy. However, it would be good idea to before ask wheather these GW's are new/better models and is it now guaranteed those are non-BS-models !

If you mind ask this from you PC-company, please post their answer :) Also if you are able to take a close look of cards, could you check out what codes are at top of those green-labeled caps (c136 & c143) i.e. "4 7 470 6E" ;)

dandaman
05-20-2005, 03:47 AM
The supplier is not very good at allowing me to check what the versions are.

the customer services dept and the stock pickers who send the cards out dont seem to comunicate very well because its quite a big company so i seem to be wasting my time when i request that they check the capacitor labels before despatching them.

So i dont hold much faith in them being able to tell me if the Gainwards are old or new models. Like i said, ive had the dual fan Gainward already, but unless u are deaf its not worth it. i didnt get BS with it but then i only played for an hour before removing it and sending it back.

Theres only GBP35 ($65) difference between the Gainward and the Galaxy GT and for that I get a quiet cooler and a GT version! i guess its worth it. Im just a little concerned that i cant find a website for Galaxy.

Im also a little put out that these cards cost 50% more than the PS3 and Xbox 360! are we mad!?

SikaRippa
05-21-2005, 01:32 PM
The supplier is not very good at allowing me to check what the versions are.

the customer services dept and the stock pickers who send the cards out dont seem to comunicate very well because its quite a big company so i seem to be wasting my time when i request that they check the capacitor labels before despatching them.

So i dont hold much faith in them being able to tell me if the Gainwards are old or new models. Like i said, ive had the dual fan Gainward already, but unless u are deaf its not worth it. i didnt get BS with it but then i only played for an hour before removing it and sending it back.

Theres only GBP35 ($65) difference between the Gainward and the Galaxy GT and for that I get a quiet cooler and a GT version! i guess its worth it. Im just a little concerned that i cant find a website for Galaxy.

Im also a little put out that these cards cost 50% more than the PS3 and Xbox 360! are we mad!?

OK. I am sure you are right, they propably do not want anybody to check they hardware except very good reason :rolleyes: But, if they would be aware of this problem (?) I wonder they would not want to sell products coming back during a few months.

--

I checked the figures of Galaxy, and it has nice cooler :D (NV 5?). So, if you do want a new card go for Galaxy..

--

Yes, we are mad when buing these (even working ones) !!! I had ti4200 and STILL all games released so far are working somehow with that model... so, why .. we have been manipulated by all reviews/benchmarks/a-friend-having-brand-new-card to belive that without a new card cannot live.

The reason why consoles are so cheap is purely business. After buing one (=at price lower than manufacturing cost) you will buy 'again' your console with license fees of each game.

KoR_Wraith
05-23-2005, 12:36 PM
Hello, is the "Enhanced capacitor modification" possible to do without removing the NV5 Silencer from the card?

SikaRippa
05-23-2005, 02:05 PM
Hello, is the "Enhanced capacitor modification" possible to do without removing the NV5 Silencer from the card?

Hi KoR_Wraith,

Yes, very easily. Place capacitor at bottom side of the card . Use the figure to locate the TPs, and be sure about the polarity of the capacitor !!

wiredhand
05-23-2005, 03:25 PM
It's funny that this error is collectively known as BS. I've been looking for the solution to this error on my system. This exact problem of BS happens to my BFG Tech 6800GT OC (factory overclocked) PCIe. My first call with tech support had me downloading EVEREST Home Edition to see if my card was overheating. Thats what I thought was happening because you can fry an egg on the back of the cards. My card is only at about 75 celcius when it drops out and the tech said these babies dont shut down until 135 C! Also, they had me switch the power cables around to no avail. I found this thread and have since called tech support for the second time. Looks like they will RMA but want to charge me for shipping it to them. I'm still talking to them about waiving this.
For me, Far Cry 64 drops out on Windows Pro x64 Beta after just 10 minutes usually. Both 3dMark05 and 3dMark03 go BS half way through. Aquamark and Alpin will not run (they dont want to install).
For $400 USD you would expect the product to work the first time around. They need to bench these card properly before they leave the factory. Do these people know about this and ship the cards anyway? I kind of expect the PCIe cards to be 'newer', and not have a design flaw carried over from the 6800le.

I've got:
AMD64 3000+
MSI Neo4-f Nforce4
Corsair Value Select D. Channel 1024mb
Themaltake PurePower 480w
BFG 6800 gt oc pcie 256

bertos
05-23-2005, 09:46 PM
Hello again,

I'm thinking about adding this capacitor to my card, to check if it will solve the problem with pausing and hangin' up...
Cause I'm a little bit confused with this all electronical spec. you've given here, I'm asking you for a kind of recapitulation: what should I tell to my reseller in electronic parts shop to buy a good capacitor for easy cap. mod.? (I have GW 2100 LE)

thanks in advance

DeNs
05-24-2005, 05:41 AM
Incredible. Just incredible.

I just read through the whole of the first post about this whole BS issue.

My Sparkle 6800NU had a problem with BS back when it was in my old P4 Prescott setup. I had lockups under heavy load in progs such as 3DMark03 and 05 as well as Games like Doom3 and HL2 (HL2 moreso). I really could not figure out the source of my problems, and the card worked fine in any other PC, which was what led me to believe that this is not the same problem as what people were experiencing here.

In the end I upgraded to A64 at the start of this year and that remedied all my problems. I've since upgraded my PSU to an OCZ 520W (Antec 480W before) so one of these days i'll see if i've got the same prob when using another PSU. I've babbled on enough though.

Very nice guide. :)

---dens

SikaRippa
05-24-2005, 06:19 AM
It's funny that this error is collectively known as BS. I've been looking for the solution to this error on my system. This exact problem of BS happens to my BFG Tech 6800GT OC (factory overclocked) PCIe. My first call with tech support had me downloading EVEREST Home Edition to see if my card was overheating. Thats what I thought was happening because you can fry an egg on the back of the cards. My card is only at about 75 celcius when it drops out and the tech said these babies dont shut down until 135 C! Also, they had me switch the power cables around to no avail. I found this thread and have since called tech support for the second time. Looks like they will RMA but want to charge me for shipping it to them. I'm still talking to them about waiving this.
For me, Far Cry 64 drops out on Windows Pro x64 Beta after just 10 minutes usually. Both 3dMark05 and 3dMark03 go BS half way through. Aquamark and Alpin will not run (they dont want to install).
For $400 USD you would expect the product to work the first time around. They need to bench these card properly before they leave the factory. Do these people know about this and ship the cards anyway? I kind of expect the PCIe cards to be 'newer', and not have a design flaw carried over from the 6800le.

I've got:
AMD64 3000+
MSI Neo4-f Nforce4
Corsair Value Select D. Channel 1024mb
Themaltake PurePower 480w
BFG 6800 gt oc pcie 256

I agree the name 'black screen' or BS is not very informative. However, that name was used in GW's forum at first and I think that it is the most commonly used term ..
but now there is no idea to change it now !!

--

Is your card exactly similar to post #1 ? I mean you have magenta labels top of those caps (c136&c143) ??

--

I wonder you have (also) some extra problems (windows?), because you cannot install Skialpine and pass 3dmark's (e.g. I have never encounter BS with 3dmark's)

SikaRippa
05-24-2005, 06:26 AM
Hello again,

I'm thinking about adding this capacitor to my card, to check if it will solve the problem with pausing and hangin' up...
Cause I'm a little bit confused with this all electronical spec. you've given here, I'm asking you for a kind of recapitulation: what should I tell to my reseller in electronic parts shop to buy a good capacitor for easy cap. mod.? (I have GW 2100 LE)

thanks in advance

Yes, there are maybe too much specs and requirements, here is a very simply list for shopping:

- Voltage rating > 6 V (too large means large can)
- Capacitance 3300 - 4700 uF (microfards)
- LOW ESR !!!

SikaRippa
05-24-2005, 06:30 AM
Incredible. Just incredible.

I just read through the whole of the first post about this whole BS issue.

My Sparkle 6800NU had a problem with BS back when it was in my old P4 Prescott setup. I had lockups under heavy load in progs such as 3DMark03 and 05 as well as Games like Doom3 and HL2 (HL2 moreso). I really could not figure out the source of my problems, and the card worked fine in any other PC, which was what led me to believe that this is not the same problem as what people were experiencing here.

In the end I upgraded to A64 at the start of this year and that remedied all my problems. I've since upgraded my PSU to an OCZ 520W (Antec 480W before) so one of these days i'll see if i've got the same prob when using another PSU. I've babbled on enough though.

Very nice guide. :)

---dens


First Sparkle !!! The list of affected cards will be looooog quite soon..

--

Could you give labels of those green capacitors c136&c143 (e.g. "4 8 470 6E) ? Do you know a web-page having a good-quality figure of your card ?

bertos
05-24-2005, 06:58 AM
Thanks for the advice, SikaRippa

Best regards

KoR_Wraith
05-24-2005, 08:00 AM
Hi, don't know if this is relevent or not but I have the MSI card featured in

http://img260.echo.cx/my.php?image=msi6800lev14jo.jpg

And it is most certainly affected by BS. If I don't lower the memory clock speed it can also frequently black screen just running windows...

sunn
05-24-2005, 09:21 AM
It might have a good idea to buy a BS-affected card for heavy-duty-testing-purposes :D . But I wonder that £145.00 (that one is yours ?) is too high cost for that purpose: removing capacitors etc. and measuring them i.e. most likely destroying the card.


if you're still interested my old Gainward has went down to £99.00 (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/BGrade_Graphics_Cards.html) - £116.33 inc VAT

SikaRippa
05-25-2005, 05:42 AM
Hi, don't know if this is relevent or not but I have the MSI card featured in

http://img260.echo.cx/my.php?image=msi6800lev14jo.jpg

And it is most certainly affected by BS. If I don't lower the memory clock speed it can also frequently black screen just running windows...

It seems to have all features to be a BS-card. Do you have markings of "4 3 470 6E" or "4 8 470 6E" above green labelled caps ? When having "3" usually black screen has been appeared VERY soon, when tested with proper games.

If you want, you can test cap modification very easily without any soldering (see instructions). When testing with cap AND having normal clock frequency, you should see immediately the difference at performance (no more BS..)

SikaRippa
05-25-2005, 05:48 AM
if you're still interested my old Gainward has went down to £99.00 (http://www.overclockers.co.uk/acatalog/BGrade_Graphics_Cards.html) - £116.33 inc VAT

You were right getting cheaper :D !! It would be nice to have a test-rat, but if that one is still working ....

I wonder if somebody has a completely DEAD BS-affected 6800le-card i.e. almost free (?) and does not annoy anybody to solder some/every components away.

dandaman
05-26-2005, 02:36 AM
thanks for the advice. i have asked them for the Galaxy. Ill let u know what they say.

KoR_Wraith
05-26-2005, 06:30 AM
Hi again, there are any electronic shops near where I live...anyone know a good website that I can get one of the recommended capacitors off of?

P.S. I live in the UK

SikaRippa
05-26-2005, 11:12 AM
Hi again, there are any electronic shops near where I live...anyone know a good website that I can get one of the recommended capacitors off of?

P.S. I live in the UK

I live in Finland, so I do not hanging around those corners too much :rolleyes:
I am sure you can find a proper electronic component shop in every big/moderate size city in UK

BUT you can easily find (=rip off) a suitable component from old motherboard or PC supply etc. (Please check first that it is not broken/too old cap!) Those caps might not be the best you can find, but you can test the mod without any cost (and delay). I have myself tested mod with regular cap and it worked !

However, if you buy capacitors for this purpose select a good quality component.

KoR_Wraith
05-28-2005, 08:37 AM
Hello again, I found the site of an UK electronics shop - www.maplin.co.uk. Anyway, they have a whole list of different types capacitors . If you would be so kind as to kindly choose what one would best suit this purpose it would be a great help :D . The list is available at :
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?Criteria=capacitor&amp;doy=28m5

Thanks, KoR_Wraith

SikaRippa
05-28-2005, 01:51 PM
Hello again, I found the site of an UK electronics shop - www.maplin.co.uk. Anyway, they have a whole list of different types capacitors . If you would be so kind as to kindly choose what one would best suit this purpose it would be a great help :D . The list is available at :
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?Criteria=capacitor&amp;doy=28m5

Thanks, KoR_Wraith

I checked the list.. I wonder that they do not have optimal models for this purpose, but IF you should select from those:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Mproduct.asp?oc=TX84F

.. should meet the electrical requirements. Why not optimal ? The voltage rating is quite high (63v) which makes the physical size of the capacitor quite big (30x60mm).

I wonder why they have so few different capacitors ? I you are extrelemely interesting/and not afraid of Finnish language :D take a look list of local supplier (a very small BUT good shop):

http://www.partco.fi/luettelot/PARTCO2005-OSA2.PDF

(in page 10 there are electrolytic capacitors, in the middle of that page one can see the exact model I have used "ELKO LOW ESR PYSTYMALLI").

KoR_Wraith
05-29-2005, 02:00 AM
w00t, I think I found ones that would work good! Which would you go for:

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=CA01869&N=411

or

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=CA01879&N=411

SikaRippa
05-29-2005, 09:25 AM
w00t, I think I found ones that would work good! Which would you go for:

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=CA01869&N=411

or

http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSearch/partDetail.jsp?SKU=CA01879&N=411


Yes, those look like just perfect :D

Take one having value of 3300 uF.

--

If/when you have done the mod, please post how it succeeded :)

markiemrboo
05-30-2005, 04:15 AM
EDIT: Ooops, never mind. I read the table wrong! I'll go measure the right points now lol

Ok, even worse? TP5, which should be reading half the memory voltage (1.36v on your table)?? Well, that appears to be reading 0v on my card? TP7, which is right next to TP5, is reading 3.3v like on your table.

Next to TP7, is that TP8 or TP9? Because that is reading 0.6v on mine. I think that's TP8 and it's alright though.

Do those sound wrong to you?? I'm a little concerned that TP5 is reading 0v..

UPDATE: Just seem something else a little weird, there's three points to measure memory voltage? Well, TP10 reads 2.82v ... but TP14 is only reading 2.72v still! I'm gonna stick a lead on TP1 and measure that now too..

Perhaps I didn't do the memory vmod quite right?

UPDATE 2: TP1 also reads 2.82v .. it's just TP14 which is reading lower!

SikaRippa
05-30-2005, 11:31 AM
I updated some missing links for figures, those figures were DISAPPEARED from 'imageshack', wierd...

SikaRippa
05-30-2005, 11:51 AM
EDIT: Ooops, never mind. I read the table wrong! I'll go measure the right points now lol

Ok, even worse? TP5, which should be reading half the memory voltage (1.36v on your table)?? Well, that appears to be reading 0v on my card? TP7, which is right next to TP5, is reading 3.3v like on your table.

Next to TP7, is that TP8 or TP9? Because that is reading 0.6v on mine. I think that's TP8 and it's alright though.

Do those sound wrong to you?? I'm a little concerned that TP5 is reading 0v..

UPDATE: Just seem something else a little weird, there's three points to measure memory voltage? Well, TP10 reads 2.82v ... but TP14 is only reading 2.72v still! I'm gonna stick a lead on TP1 and measure that now too..

Perhaps I didn't do the memory vmod quite right?

UPDATE 2: TP1 also reads 2.82v .. it's just TP14 which is reading lower!

The table is not so nice, but I could not tabulate it since you can not put any extra spaces etc. between numbers :mad:

--

Please, check the figure 13, to be sure you have measured correct points. Here, a short list (maybe more clear one) what I got (measurement accuracy +/- ~10mV):

TP1 = 2.72 V (VDD_MEM)
TP2 = 0 V
TP3 = 1.37 V (VDD_MEM/2, VTT/VREF for memory ?)
TP4 = 0 V
TP5 = 1.36 V (VDD_MEM/2, VTT/VREF for memory ?)
TP6 = 0 V
TP7 = 3.35 V (some REFERENCE ?)
TP8 = 0.60 V (Internal REFERENCE buffered out ?)
TP9 = 0 V
TP10 = 2.72 V (VDD_MEM)
TP11 = 1.12 V (VDD_GPU, not directly)
TP12 = 0.61 V (REFERENCE for Vgpu, for feedback)
TP13 = 3.31 V (VREF, used for Vmem generation)
TP14 = 2.72 V (Generated from VREF with resistor division determines VMEM)

--

If you measure VERY different values, something is badly wrong ..

--

Are you still ready to measure capacitances :)

I found a way to measure ALL feedback component values without removing those components from card :D The accuracy is not 1%, but I think that enough the compare BS and non-BS cards and cards modified afterwards !!

I'll try to make instructions&figures quite soon..

markiemrboo
05-31-2005, 07:08 AM
The table is not so nice, but I could not tabulate it since you can not put any extra spaces etc. between numbers :mad:

--

Please, check the figure 13, to be sure you have measured correct points. Here, a short list (maybe more clear one) what I got (measurement accuracy +/- ~10mV):

TP1 = 2.72 V (VDD_MEM)
TP2 = 0 V
TP3 = 1.37 V (VDD_MEM/2, VTT/VREF for memory ?)
TP4 = 0 V
TP5 = 1.36 V (VDD_MEM/2, VTT/VREF for memory ?)
TP6 = 0 V
TP7 = 3.35 V (some REFERENCE ?)
TP8 = 0.60 V (Internal REFERENCE buffered out ?)
TP9 = 0 V
TP10 = 2.72 V (VDD_MEM)
TP11 = 1.12 V (VDD_GPU, not directly)
TP12 = 0.61 V (REFERENCE for Vgpu, for feedback)
TP13 = 3.31 V (VREF, used for Vmem generation)
TP14 = 2.72 V (Generated from VREF with resistor division determines VMEM)

--

If you measure VERY different values, something is badly wrong ..

--

Are you still ready to measure capacitances :)

I found a way to measure ALL feedback component values without removing those components from card :D The accuracy is not 1%, but I think that enough the compare BS and non-BS cards and cards modified afterwards !!

I'll try to make instructions&figures quite soon..

That table is a lot clearer, thanks.

My main concern is that I don't seem to be reading anything at all from TP3 or TP5. All the rest are ok, but aren't TP3 and TP5 for the memory? I was hoping that maybe I had found a cause why my memory won't clock as high as it should? Could this perhaps be why? I assume with a memory voltage of 2.8v I should be getting readings of 1.4v from those two points?

I finished my last exam today, so I would be more than happy to measure anything you want... although I perhaps don't have the same black screen as others are experiencing, perhaps my results could still come in useful. :)

:toast:

SikaRippa
06-02-2005, 09:44 AM
That table is a lot clearer, thanks.

My main concern is that I don't seem to be reading anything at all from TP3 or TP5. All the rest are ok, but aren't TP3 and TP5 for the memory? I was hoping that maybe I had found a cause why my memory won't clock as high as it should? Could this perhaps be why? I assume with a memory voltage of 2.8v I should be getting readings of 1.4v from those two points?

I finished my last exam today, so I would be more than happy to measure anything you want... although I perhaps don't have the same black screen as others are experiencing, perhaps my results could still come in useful. :)

:toast:

That is very wierd indeed.. as you can I measured VMEM/2 also with Gainward 1b (which had wrong memory voltage). So, there IS something wrong with your card - maybe this causes your problem.

I assume that these TP's corresponds to VTT/VREF voltages (not sure !), and by having 0 V in those point means for me that card cannot work !

--

Do you think that layout of your card is EXACTLY the same as shown in those figures (e.g. GW-cards) . Could your measure resistance & capacitance values of those TP's (you can compare to values I have posted!).

--

Measurement instructions are not ready, I will add they to next update
(nice that you still want help :) )

markiemrboo
06-02-2005, 03:59 PM
That is very wierd indeed.. as you can I measured VMEM/2 also with Gainward 1b (which had wrong memory voltage). So, there IS something wrong with your card - maybe this causes your problem.

I assume that these TP's corresponds to VTT/VREF voltages (not sure !), and by having 0 V in those point means for me that card cannot work !

--

Do you think that layout of your card is EXACTLY the same as shown in those figures (e.g. GW-cards) . Could your measure resistance & capacitance values of those TP's (you can compare to values I have posted!).

--

Measurement instructions are not ready, I will add they to next update
(nice that you still want help :) )

It's incredibly weird, and I am rather worried about it :) It's definately odd that I get 0v from both TP5 and TP3 but my card still actually still works. I've double checked the readings, i've put a wire in the TP point, tight fit, and measured by the wire... but still 0v readings.

If anyone else with a Leadtek 6800NU could measure TP3 and TP5 and tell me if they also get 0v that would be interesting for me.

The layout of my board seems to be the same. I'll measure those values tomorrow morning and get back to you.

markiemrboo
06-03-2005, 06:52 AM
Ah ha! Turns out I was measuring TP2 not TP3, as the board is reversed from the picture (I was measuring the back of the card and the picture I was using as a reference was a shot of the front of the card), oops!!

SO, I get 1.40v on TP3, but still 0v on TP5. Definately TP5, I can just about read the writing saying TP5 on the hole from underneath the Arctic Cooler, as it's close to the edge of the board!

SikaRippa
06-04-2005, 12:15 AM
Ah ha! Turns out I was measuring TP2 not TP3, as the board is reversed from the picture (I was measuring the back of the card and the picture I was using as a reference was a shot of the front of the card), oops!!

SO, I get 1.40v on TP3, but still 0v on TP5. Definately TP5, I can just about read the writing saying TP5 on the hole from underneath the Arctic Cooler, as it's close to the edge of the board!

OK :), nice that TP3 is clear now ! Are you still sure about TP5 and you are not measuring TP4 (see Fig 13). At least I measured that point :rolleyes:

markiemrboo
06-04-2005, 05:19 AM
OK :), nice that TP3 is clear now ! Are you still sure about TP5 and you are not measuring TP4 (see Fig 13). At least I measured that point :rolleyes:

Absolutely sure, I can see TP5 written on the spot underneath and it reads nothing :(

krille
06-04-2005, 06:35 AM
I'm prolly gonna buy a Leadtek 6800NU monday. Saw that there had been one incident of BS on a Leadtek 6800NU. Had an MSI 6800LE before which was BS, RMA'd it but only got aprox 80% of my money back, no explanation why. I'd hate to have BS problems again. Do you know if the Leadtek 6800NU still has these problems?

Thanks. :toast:

markiemrboo
06-04-2005, 07:04 AM
I'm prolly gonna buy a Leadtek 6800NU monday. Saw that there had been one incident of BS on a Leadtek 6800NU. Had an MSI 6800LE before which was BS, RMA'd it but only got aprox 80% of my money back, no explanation why. I'd hate to have BS problems again. Do you know if the Leadtek 6800NU still has these problems?

Thanks. :toast:

That would be my card. My black screen is something totally different I think. I still get voltages when it black screens and I can still ping my machine, only happens when I overclock the memory too high.

If you do get it, would you be able to measure TP5 with a multimeter for me, just to see if you get a voltage reading there? I have a feeling there may be something wrong with my card :)

markiemrboo
06-04-2005, 12:35 PM
Ah ha! I was looking through all your figures and saw one that you had drawn arrows pointing at every TP point (http://img112.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img112&image=fig82gl.jpg)

It seems either you have TP5 and TP6 mixed up, or TP5 is labelled wrongly on my card. The point I have labelled TP5 on your diagram definately reads TP5 on my card and not TP6.

Anyway, the good news is that the voltages are correct, both at 1.41/1.42v, now that I found the right spot. The bad news is...... that my memory still just won't overclock like it should. I think I will just have to give up on trying to get the memory on this catd running at the spec sheets rated stock speeds (900MHz) :slobber:

I'm beginning to think that the memory chips on my card have been labelled wrong and are actually 2.5ns chips :( Ah well!

krille
06-04-2005, 02:10 PM
That would be my card. My black screen is something totally different I think. I still get voltages when it black screens and I can still ping my machine, only happens when I overclock the memory too high.

If you do get it, would you be able to measure TP5 with a multimeter for me, just to see if you get a voltage reading there? I have a feeling there may be something wrong with my card :)

Heya mate! Sorry, about your card/mems. I'm not that into electrics, but I'll do what I can if you supply further instructions. :)

I'll prolly get the card tuesday, and since you think it's your specific card that's wrong, hopefully I won't (shouldn't you RMA?). Anyway, my previous experiences with Leadtek have been very good so far. Once again, just tell me exactly what to do and what equipment I need and I'll be happy to help out, bro! :toast:

markiemrboo
06-05-2005, 03:35 AM
Heya mate! Sorry, about your card/mems. I'm not that into electrics, but I'll do what I can if you supply further instructions. :)

I'll prolly get the card tuesday, and since you think it's your specific card that's wrong, hopefully I won't (shouldn't you RMA?). Anyway, my previous experiences with Leadtek have been very good so far. Once again, just tell me exactly what to do and what equipment I need and I'll be happy to help out, bro! :toast:

It's actually OK, I think. It looks to me like Sika possibly got TP5 and TP6 mixed up, or TP5 is a different point no the Leadtek boards? But I got the reading I was after on a different point :) Back to square one again now lol

The black screen issue I was having definately isn't the same as the black screen other people seem to get.Their cards shut down when they black screened, mine didn't.. there was just no picture on the screen. I think it's just badly marked memory chips on my card and the issue I am having *may* happen for everyone if you push the memory too far. They're supposed to be 2.2ns chips on mine, but they're acting very very much like 2.5ns. There was no difference in overclocking from 2.7v to 2.8v (800MHz), from 2.8v to 2.95v it looks like I can manage 850MHz... but from 2.95v to 3.05v I get no improvement at all, again, just like the jump from 2.7v to 2.8v!

SikaRippa
06-05-2005, 01:02 PM
It's actually OK, I think. It looks to me like Sika possibly got TP5 and TP6 mixed up, or TP5 is a different point no the Leadtek boards? But I got the reading I was after on a different point :) Back to square one again now lol

The black screen issue I was having definately isn't the same as the black screen other people seem to get.Their cards shut down when they black screened, mine didn't.. there was just no picture on the screen. I think it's just badly marked memory chips on my card and the issue I am having *may* happen for everyone if you push the memory too far. They're supposed to be 2.2ns chips on mine, but they're acting very very much like 2.5ns. There was no difference in overclocking from 2.7v to 2.8v (800MHz), from 2.8v to 2.95v it looks like I can manage 850MHz... but from 2.95v to 3.05v I get no improvement at all, again, just like the jump from 2.7v to 2.8v!

Yeah .. those labels ARE very bad. In Fig 1 the TP5 is 'clearly' TP6 and it looks like a Leadtek-card (i.e. green). In many other cards (e.g Fig 3) label could be identified as TP5 (I'll check mine after opening case!).

Anyway, nice that you got the same voltages :)

--

Have you tested any timing tricks to get more speed ? You can find info at least in guru3d-forum:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133245&highlight=6800+timing

markiemrboo
06-05-2005, 01:54 PM
Yeah .. those labels ARE very bad. In Fig 1 the TP5 is 'clearly' TP6 and it looks like a Leadtek-card (i.e. green). In many other cards (e.g Fig 3) label could be identified as TP5 (I'll check mine after opening case!).

Anyway, nice that you got the same voltages :)

--

Have you tested any timing tricks to get more speed ? You can find info at least in guru3d-forum:

http://forums.guru3d.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=133245&highlight=6800+timing

I tried adjusting timings too over the past few days, made absolutely no difference at all for me! I think it's just a lost cause :) May be one day I will figure it out ( probably when there's a Geforce 9 out and my card is totally obselete :) )

SikaRippa
06-06-2005, 12:54 AM
I tried adjusting timings too over the past few days, made absolutely no difference at all for me! I think it's just a lost cause :) May be one day I will figure it out ( probably when there's a Geforce 9 out and my card is totally obselete :) )

I think you were absolutely correct with TP5 and TP6 ;) . I took a close look about those labels and it is more likely that TP6 is for memory and located at lower part of card (=AGP side). The reason I am (was) not sure is that there are holes (vias) under TP5 and TP6 labels, which makes labels unclear (in GW-card you can see only a part of those labels).

Thank you very much for this information !

--

No performance increase with any timing settings ? And you are totally stuck to 800 MHz with any voltages ? Maybe you have indeed 2.5 ns chips..

If I remember correct, you got some boost when adding a capacitor (?) That would indicate some mechanism/correlation (also in your case) between OC-capability and memory voltage (stability). Therefore, it is wierd that voltage increase does not boost OC.

Have you any experience about Vcore overclocking/voltage mod vs. memory OC ? Just wondering if the core would be a bottleneck when OC the memory.

markiemrboo
06-06-2005, 04:44 AM
I think you were absolutely correct with TP5 and TP6 ;) . I took a close look about those labels and it is more likely that TP6 is for memory and located at lower part of card (=AGP side). The reason I am (was) not sure is that there are holes (vias) under TP5 and TP6 labels, which makes labels unclear (in GW-card you can see only a part of those labels).

Thank you very much for this information !

--

No performance increase with any timing settings ? And you are totally stuck to 800 MHz with any voltages ? Maybe you have indeed 2.5 ns chips..

If I remember correct, you got some boost when adding a capacitor (?) That would indicate some mechanism/correlation (also in your case) between OC-capability and memory voltage (stability). Therefore, it is wierd that voltage increase does not boost OC.

Have you any experience about Vcore overclocking/voltage mod vs. memory OC ? Just wondering if the core would be a bottleneck when OC the memory.

No problem :)

No performance increase at all. Still stuck at the same speed as the default timings! I went ahead and increased the voltage to 2.9v and I can get 845MHz-850MHz on the test, but then I went to 3.05v and I was still stuck at 850MHz, timings didn't change that either! In short:

2.72v -> 2.82v = no increase
2.82v -> 2.95v = 835MHz -> 850MHz
2.95v -> 3.06v = no increase

I think I may have found somewhere I can get a nice quality capacitor, 10v, 2200uF, 105C and apparently low esr / 2.3A ripple. I'm gonna buy one of those and see if it helps.

I've also tried lowering the core to default speeds / default voltage and relocking the pipes, *just* overclocking the memory and I hit the exact same limits.

EDIT: Do you have those measurement figures yet? :)

KoR_Wraith
06-06-2005, 08:25 AM
Did the enhanced capacitor mod and it all works now :) . Thanks

P.S. I had to my capacitor in a pack of 5 so if your located in the UK and need a capacitor that works for the mod then send me an email at storm_gecko_2001@hotmail and I can post one/two to you.

krille
06-06-2005, 11:14 AM
So, just for the record the Leadtek 6800NU cards are *NOT* defective, your individual sample just had some bad mems, while most don't? The leadtek 6800NU is supposed to have 2.2 ns mems?

Oh, and btw, I never understood how to increase my vtt/vddr/vmem or whatever it's called the voltage to the mems on my prev MSI 6800LE, I just knew how to bump my core.

Btw, my old MSI card worked 100% fine when i literally halved the mems freq. But this you probably already knew, no?

markiemrboo
06-06-2005, 11:53 AM
So, just for the record the Leadtek 6800NU cards are *NOT* defective, your individual sample just had some bad mems, while most don't? The leadtek 6800NU is supposed to have 2.2 ns mems?

Oh, and btw, I never understood how to increase my vtt/vddr/vmem or whatever it's called the voltage to the mems on my prev MSI 6800LE, I just knew how to bump my core.

Btw, my old MSI card worked 100% fine when i literally halved the mems freq. But this you probably already knew, no?

They don't seem to suffer from the big nasty black screen, no. Just seems like the chips on my card, which are marked as 2.2ns, actually aren't 2.2ns so it doesn't overclock as high as it should do. Either that or my card has a strange fault :)

You need to do a volt mod to increase memory voltage, can't be done by a BIOS flash like the core voltage can!

krille
06-06-2005, 01:13 PM
They don't seem to suffer from the big nasty black screen, no. Just seems like the chips on my card, which are marked as 2.2ns, actually aren't 2.2ns so it doesn't overclock as high as it should do. Either that or my card has a strange fault :)

You need to do a volt mod to increase memory voltage, can't be done by a BIOS flash like the core voltage can!

Ok, cool. I'd love to do that with my card, any link/guide please? How far would it be safe to go? Is it permanent (i e, I won't have to keep doing stuff after vmem is increased), no really, I'd love to pump up them memories! :D

On a side note, do you know what would be better - stock Leadtek cooler or NV Silencer 5 or 4 or whichever for 6800 I have here laying around somewehre, thanks.

markiemrboo
06-06-2005, 01:57 PM
Ok, cool. I'd love to do that with my card, any link/guide please? How far would it be safe to go? Is it permanent (i e, I won't have to keep doing stuff after vmem is increased), no really, I'd love to pump up them memories! :D

On a side note, do you know what would be better - stock Leadtek cooler or NV Silencer 5 or 4 or whichever for 6800 I have here laying around somewehre, thanks.

It's pretty easy, and yes it is permanent. From the Hynix spec sheet 2.94v is within tolerable limits, so I should think you're probably safe running 3.1v 24/7 so long as you keep the RAM cool.

The stock cooler isn't too bad, it's quiet if you unscrew the nasty grill. But I would recommend an NV5 if you're going to be increasing voltages :)

I used http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?p=646744&page=4&pp=25 to do mine, although there's no really any "instructions" to follow as such. If you want to see pretty much exactly what I did, see attached drawn on photo.

You can use any of the red parts + ground for the memory mod. I just found the little round solder point the easiest to solder to personally :) I need to take my card out of my system in a few days to add an extra cap, see if it has any effect on my crappy memory overclock.. so if you would like a close up picture, not drawn on, of how I did it I can probably get you one. Pretty sure the drawn on diagram should be good enough though? :)

EDIT: Oh and you can ignore that 12k ohm + arrows part. I didn't draw that. That may be another way of doing it.. but I don't really know :) Looks like it to me, but... im no expert :)

SikaRippa
06-06-2005, 02:28 PM
krille:

There is only little information wheather Leadtek-cards (le/nu) would suffer 'black screen' etc. problems. Therefore, I think (?) that those cards are 'clean' or at least much better than e.g GW/MSI-cards

If you consider Vmem-modification, please take a look in post #1 chapter '3.5 Memory voltage modification' there is explained A LOT easier way modify Vmem .. no soldering required :rolleyes: ..

SikaRippa
06-06-2005, 02:31 PM
Did the enhanced capacitor mod and it all works now :) . Thanks

P.S. I had to my capacitor in a pack of 5 so if your located in the UK and need a capacitor that works for the mod then send me an email at storm_gecko_2001@hotmail and I can post one/two to you.

Nice to heard :) Your card is born again...

markiemrboo
06-06-2005, 02:46 PM
krille: If you consider Vmem-modification, please take a look in post #1 chapter '3.5 Memory voltage modification' there is explained A LOT easier way modify Vmem .. no soldering required :rolleyes: ..

Another no solder required mod. These cards seem good for those...

SikaRippa
06-06-2005, 03:02 PM
Another no solder required mod. These cards seem good for those...

Yep... I found that one by mistake :D (that is true!!). I was trying to identify ALL components etc. in the feedback path, and I discovered that the original Vmem mod is too complex - or at least it is not too easy way to perform due to small soldering areas. Moreover, the original mod modifies feedback voltage (=not very optimal way), and this one modifies only the reference voltage i.e. feedback is unchanged !!

dandaman
06-07-2005, 04:50 AM
[QUOTE=SikaRippa]OK. I am sure you are right, they propably do not want anybody to check they hardware except very good reason :rolleyes: But, if they would be aware of this problem (?) I wonder they would not want to sell products coming back during a few months.

--

I checked the figures of Galaxy, and it has nice cooler :D (NV 5?). So, if you do want a new card go for Galaxy..[QUOTE]


I dont beliiiiieve it!!! :slash:

After writing to them TWICE to ask them to send me a Galaxy and ill send them the money, the IDIOTS have sent me another MSi!!!!!!

here we go again.....

SikaRippa
06-07-2005, 07:55 AM
[QUOTE=SikaRippa]OK. I am sure you are right, they propably do not want anybody to check they hardware except very good reason :rolleyes: But, if they would be aware of this problem (?) I wonder they would not want to sell products coming back during a few months.

--

I checked the figures of Galaxy, and it has nice cooler :D (NV 5?). So, if you do want a new card go for Galaxy..[QUOTE]


I dont beliiiiieve it!!! :slash:

After writing to them TWICE to ask them to send me a Galaxy and ill send them the money, the IDIOTS have sent me another MSi!!!!!!

here we go again.....

'They' did it again :dammit:

I know exactly the same kind of story: A BS-affected GW-card was RMA'd and it was 'kindly' asked to get an ASUS 6800le-card, but no way 'they' sent similar GW back..

--

Please, calm down .. I wonder if you could cancel a deal totally ? In Finland that could be possible when getting faulty product, at least in cases when it can be shown that product has been faulty even as a new.

--

Have you already tested your card, does it give BS right away ? If you mind, could you check those geen caps - wheather you obtained a working card ;)

dandaman
06-07-2005, 08:55 AM
well im gonna take delivery and see. it might be a BS free MSI card..... i live in hope.

it was gonna cost me nearly 150 euros more to upgrade to the Galaxy, and i cant afford that. well, its not important enough to me anyway.

there is nothing else they have in stock from Nvidia which tickles my fancy.

i just hope i dont have to send it back before the end of the week

dandaman
06-07-2005, 08:55 AM
i wont get it till wednesday

ill let u know how i get on and check the caps

Flip
06-07-2005, 11:41 AM
I've got a Gainward 6800LE with these caps:
"4 8 470 6E" - usually no BS when new, BS after some months (MSI, GW)

Let's see how it does in a few months then :p:
The card runs at 12/6 und 390/850 (stock voltage - stock cooler)

If it gets BS, I will replace the caps

SikaRippa
06-08-2005, 01:15 AM
i wont get it till wednesday

ill let u know how i get on and check the caps

It is curious that they did not change the card even if you offer 150 e ..

I understood your message


there is nothing else they have in stock from Nvidia which tickles my fancy

.. they would offer some other 6800le/6800 ? In that case (and if you will get BS again) I would myself try to get e.g ASUS 6800le - no BS-problem ever reported !

--

Thank you (beforehad) for cap-information :) ! GW has used at least "4 7 470 6E" -caps in their RMA-cards, and I heard some days ago that this model would give BS after some months :( (the list in #1 has to be updated..I'll do it soon)

dandaman
06-08-2005, 01:18 AM
they dont have the ASUS in stock.

i decided against paying the extra Eur150 for an upgrade. its just too much money. Doom 3 already plays perfectly well, when theres no BS, on the 6800le.


i should have the card at my desk soon....

SikaRippa
06-08-2005, 02:52 AM
I've got a Gainward 6800LE with these caps:
"4 8 470 6E" - usually no BS when new, BS after some months (MSI, GW)

Let's see how it does in a few months then :p:
The card runs at 12/6 und 390/850 (stock voltage - stock cooler)

If it gets BS, I will replace the caps

OK ! I have now quite good specs for those caps ;) (I'll post those in next update :D)

dandaman
06-08-2005, 04:41 AM
its here! well at least this time they have sent me a new one in the big box with all the games, the previous ones i got were in small boxes with only the drivers...

and the caps are...... CP136 = 46 470 6E
CP 143 = 46 470 6E

SikaRippa
06-08-2005, 05:06 AM
its here! well at least this time they have sent me a new one in the big box with all the games, the previous ones i got were in small boxes with only the drivers...

and the caps are...... CP136 = 46 470 6E
CP 143 = 46 470 6E

Thank you ! Nice you got even something extra..

Caps "4 6 470 6E" are rare.. I wonder you had those with your old MSI-card, and with that card you got BS immediately (correct??).

I really hope you got better one this time !

dandaman
06-08-2005, 06:14 AM
i cant remember what caps were on the old ones. but it looks liek before i was being sent RMA'd cards cos they just came in small brown boxes

this is new. fingers crossed

SikaRippa
06-08-2005, 07:45 AM
i cant remember what caps were on the old ones. but it looks liek before i was being sent RMA'd cards cos they just came in small brown boxes

this is new. fingers crossed

Neither I remember, but I checked your post no #71 ;)

dandaman
06-10-2005, 02:11 AM
IT DOESNT WORK!!!!!!!

I played Doom 3 for 20 mins and no probs, so i thought Id give Far Cry a go. It lasted about two minutes before black screening!!

any further attempts to play meant balck screening the second the game loads.

:slapass:

i cant believe it!

thats the THIRD MSI card to BS on me!

im losing the will to live.

:(

might it be my system thats messing it up? i cant believe i could get three cards that are faulty

SikaRippa
06-10-2005, 03:17 AM
IT DOESNT WORK!!!!!!!

I played Doom 3 for 20 mins and no probs, so i thought Id give Far Cry a go. It lasted about two minutes before black screening!!

any further attempts to play meant balck screening the second the game loads.

:slapass:

i cant believe it!

thats the THIRD MSI card to BS on me!

im losing the will to live.

:(

might it be my system thats messing it up? i cant believe i could get three cards that are faulty


:slobber: :slobber:

Unbelivable !!!! Go to that shop and INSIST they cancel the deal right away OR give DIFFERENT model.

--

This proofed that MSI having "4 6 470 6E" is in the same cathegory than GW "4 3 470 6E" i.e. BS even if brand new. This makes sense (if something makes sense with BS) since lot numbers 3,6 have to be mean an older lot than 7,8,9 (=these are working for a while). And is likely that they have improved the capacitor manufacturing in some point - between lots 6 and 7 !?

dandaman
06-10-2005, 04:19 AM
the problem is that the original card i had is the one that came with the system. i didnt actually buy it separately. on top of that the company i bought my PC from went bust and this other company bought the brand.

i lost my 5 year warranty as a result and had to pay 60 pounds for a 2 year warranty.

so i cant get my money back. but i have asked them for a 256MB ATi Radeon X800 AGP 8X S-video card, ive had enough of nvidia.

Flip
06-10-2005, 03:13 PM
In Germany you get your money back when they tried to repair or replace an electronic product three times without succuess.

Is it the same in America?

SikaRippa
06-12-2005, 03:39 PM
!!!! Document upadated to version 1.7 !!!!

Please see changelog for details, but here is a teaser:

I FINALLY FOUND INFORMATION (=DATASHEET) ABOUT THOSE GREEN CAPS !!

..thanks to my finger clicked a datasheet link by mistake :D :D

julianus
06-16-2005, 02:52 AM
I registered especially 2 say THANK YOU!! The capacitator-mod solved all the probs i head with my XFX 6800LE (old version). BTW it runs on a 200Watt PSU in my Shuttle SN45G :+]

SikaRippa
06-16-2005, 04:53 AM
I registered especially 2 say THANK YOU!! The capacitator-mod solved all the probs i head with my XFX 6800LE (old version). BTW it runs on a 200Watt PSU in my Shuttle SN45G :+]

Nice that you register to give comments :)

Your case is quite interesting, since nobody before you have reported a XFX6800le that has been repaired using cad-mod.

Please, if not a big deal answer following (regular) questions so I could make the document more accurate:

- How long it took before first BS
- What labels you have at top of those green-label caps e.g. "4 8 470 6E"
- Is there any official version code in your card (I gave those version 1 & 2 numbers for XFX corresponding different capacitors used, since no data was available)

Thank you beforehand ;)

dandaman
06-16-2005, 06:41 AM
I have decided to drop the 6800 and go for an ATI by gigabyte.

GV-R80P256D

SikaRippa
06-16-2005, 02:33 PM
I have decided to drop the 6800 and go for an ATI by gigabyte.

GV-R80P256D

Maybe (=sure) that is wise choice for you - after soooo many faulty NV's. It is pity that Nvidia suffers with these card, because the reason for this is poor design (manufacturing) of card NOT the GF-chips :(

SikaRippa
06-16-2005, 02:50 PM
Version 1.8 of the document:

- Added VERY short FAQ-list for FAST people
- 'Encahced capacitor modification' figure more clear

money2
06-17-2005, 04:24 AM
Hey SikaRippa

u are more than welcome for a quality :toast: in germany,Munich, too. :-)

I have the MSI 6800le card which u discribed in Figure 7.
as a "MSI6800le version 1" with the quadro cooler :confused: ^^

a few days ago i made the enhanced capaciator mod - now its no problem to run at standard clock rate. (300/700)
i used a 3300/16v capaciator cause i had those from former tests with memory capyiator mod... tp10 + gnd

i didn´t rma my card because i loved it - now it works proper and stable and i still love it - and u too :D

------------------

yesterday i tried to overclock to 400/800 ( a friend of mine did this without problems ) but then the bs came back.

Today i will try to overclock it step by step. And i will find out, at which stepping the BS comes back... do u think the capciator gives a limit to the overclocking level?
The question is: Can i overclock my card for example with a 1000/16v capaciator better than with a 3300/16V???

btw: i can unlock all pipes and vertex without faults :banana:


-------------------

at last:


SikaRippa, if u need any facts serial numbers. or else from this msi card vers. 1....
i can tell u what u want. Just ask for it.

THANKS A LOT - YOU ARE THE GOD :up:

SikaRippa
06-17-2005, 07:08 AM
Hey SikaRippa

u are more than welcome for a quality :toast: in germany,Munich, too. :-)

I have the MSI 6800le card which u discribed in Figure 7.
as a "MSI6800le version 1" with the quadro cooler :confused: ^^

a few days ago i made the enhanced capaciator mod - now its no problem to run at standard clock rate. (300/700)
i used a 3300/16v capaciator cause i had those from former tests with memory capyiator mod... tp10 + gnd

i didn´t rma my card because i loved it - now it works proper and stable and i still love it - and u too :D

------------------

yesterday i tried to overclock to 400/800 ( a friend of mine did this without problems ) but then the bs came back.

Today i will try to overclock it step by step. And i will find out, at which stepping the BS comes back... do u think the capciator gives a limit to the overclocking level?
The question is: Can i overclock my card for example with a 1000/16v capaciator better than with a 3300/16V???

btw: i can unlock all pipes and vertex without faults :banana:


-------------------

at last:


SKipaRippa, if u need any facts serial numbers. or else from this msi card vers. 1....
i can tell u what u want. Just ask for it.

THANKS A LOT - YOU ARE THE GOD :up:

Hi money2 !

Maybe I should take a trip to München during oktoberfest :toast: ..

--

About capacitor sizes.. I think that it does not make big difference be having 1000 or 3300 uF capacitor, BUT the quality of the capacitor is important: having lower ESR value (resistance) gives better results.

BS will occur ALLWAYS (with these card) when a HEAVY overclocking is applied. Moreover, memory chips are unique - the overclock capability varies. There are also different memory chips available in these cards e.g 2.2 and 2.8 ns, which has huge impact to OC. IF you want to try limits of your card make the memory voltage modification (see post #1 for details). It is also VERY easy to perform and quite impressive results have been posted:

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=62651

--

If you mind, you could post following information about your card:

- Exact version code of your card (maybe some label, I do know MSI cards very well)
- Estimate how long it took before the black screen occured first time
- Capacitor labels for C136 and C143 (green labels, e.g "4 8 470 6E")

money2
06-17-2005, 08:29 AM
If you mind, you could post following information about your card:

- Exact version code of your card (maybe some label, I do know MSI cards very well)
- Estimate how long it took before the black screen occured first time
- Capacitor labels for C136 and C143 (green labels, e.g "4 8 470 6E")[/QUOTE]


sure sure, you´re always welcome to munich especially for the octoberfest or soccer world championship (we have some free rooms ) :-), just sent me an email :) or pm or sth


I don´t have to estimate :p:
it was immediate if i ran the card at 300/700 and started a 3d application like
3dmark, counter strike or sth. like that. The card never ran properly since i bought it...

for the rest i have to be at home... i will post it soon

Godefroy
06-19-2005, 03:11 PM
(sorry for my english I'm french) Hi all. I carefully read the instructions about 6800 LE 's BS. I've a Gainward 6800LE 128mb.

My card started "blackscreening" after 4 months I think, on the games you said such as HL2, the Battlefield game serie (1942 and Vietnam) 3D mark 2001 and 2005. My screen turns off and PC doesn't respond to keyboard types or mouse clicks.

I tried to find the capacitors to put between TP9 and TP10 but i didn't. So i tried something other: as i have 2 PC in my house i tried the card in the other (mine is XP2000+ 512DDRpc2100). this computer is 800mhz (duron) and has got 368mo SDRAM (lol) with AGP 1x.

And you know what? My 6800 LE works in it with all the games that BS'ed before :confused: strange isnt it!

I gonna try my card in a PC of a friend of mine to check if my current OLD installation of windows XP pro is envolved in my problem.


Indeed, as far as i read here, you never asked "but wtf could it be my windows XP running off after a long time not formating the HDD?"
I will have the answer probably tomorrow but do you think, reading my problem, that a two old installation of windows could be the solution to many BS problems? That is the question.... :rolleyes:

vortex240
06-19-2005, 04:24 PM
Hello

I have BFG 6800 NU (16p 5v), it has good caps, non-bs. I have it moded to 1.4V gpu through the bios and I did the easy mem voltage mod. I was able to only raise the voltage from the stock 2.700V to 2.880V <-- this appears to be the max voltage that can be achived throught this mod. I tried different resisotrs and with a value of 1960 ohms and 2070 I get the exact same voltage. A 2230ohm resistor results in 2.855V

Also the card has a different then other 6800nu mosfet design on the bottom back corner, just under the isl chip. This might be the problem I belive.

SikaRippa
06-19-2005, 11:33 PM
If you mind, you could post following information about your card:

- Exact version code of your card (maybe some label, I do know MSI cards very well)
- Estimate how long it took before the black screen occured first time
- Capacitor labels for C136 and C143 (green labels, e.g "4 8 470 6E")


sure sure, you´re always welcome to munich especially for the octoberfest or soccer world championship (we have some free rooms ) :-), just sent me an email :) or pm or sth


I don´t have to estimate :p:
it was immediate if i ran the card at 300/700 and started a 3d application like
3dmark, counter strike or sth. like that. The card never ran properly since i bought it...

for the rest i have to be at home... i will post it soon

Thank you for invitation :D However, I wonder it sooooo hard to arrange that I will not promise anything..

---

If you could post that information it would be nice ;), since we have quite few info about MSI's.

SikaRippa
06-20-2005, 12:18 AM
My card started "blackscreening" after 4 months I think, on the games you said such as HL2, the Battlefield game serie (1942 and Vietnam) 3D mark 2001 and 2005. My screen turns off and PC doesn't respond to keyboard types or mouse clicks.

I tried to find the capacitors to put between TP9 and TP10 but i didn't. So i tried something other: as i have 2 PC in my house i tried the card in the other (mine is XP2000+ 512DDRpc2100). this computer is 800mhz (duron) and has got 368mo SDRAM (lol) with AGP 1x.

And you know what? My 6800 LE works in it with all the games that BS'ed before :confused: strange isnt it!

I gonna try my card in a PC of a friend of mine to check if my current OLD installation of windows XP pro is envolved in my problem.


Indeed, as far as i read here, you never asked "but wtf could it be my windows XP running off after a long time not formating the HDD?"
I will have the answer probably tomorrow but do you think, reading my problem, that a two old installation of windows could be the solution to many BS problems? That is the question.... :rolleyes:




Hi Godefroy !

Thank you providing your bug-report ! I think that capacitor information is not SO important, since by having GW working well ~ 4 months I would bet for capacitors "4 8 470 6E" (or "4 7 470 6E").

--

I was thinking your 'workaround' for a while, and it makes sense ! I myself investigated several combinations of hardware/driver/PSU and found that many things HAVE some effect to BS-propability. Using my theory, BS occurs when card is under a heavy memory usage i.e large amount of data is written or read AND the memory power supply (inside the card) can not source/sink required current (=finally, capacitors fail to do their job).

I your case (second one) you had a relative slow computer and more important SLOWER memories. So, this computer is not capable to provide data fast enough to reach the 'BS-level' of power consumption = games are working !

If your read the document carefully you found that even having win98 vs win2000 using the same hardware gives little bit different BS-propability (win98 working little bit better). I think this phenomena has the same origin: win98 cannot provide data as fast as win2000.

SikaRippa
06-20-2005, 01:04 AM
Hello

I have BFG 6800 NU (16p 5v), it has good caps, non-bs. I have it moded to 1.4V gpu through the bios and I did the easy mem voltage mod. I was able to only raise the voltage from the stock 2.700V to 2.880V <-- this appears to be the max voltage that can be achived throught this mod. I tried different resisotrs and with a value of 1960 ohms and 2070 I get the exact same voltage. A 2230ohm resistor results in 2.855V

Also the card has a different then other 6800nu mosfet design on the bottom back corner, just under the isl chip. This might be the problem I belive.

I have not myself tested the limits, but take a look this (post #11)


http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=62651

.. he used e.g. 1.5 kohm resistor to get 2.94 V. IF your really can not increase the Vmem by further decreasing resistor value, I wonder there is some other mechanism limiting the voltage (the regulator cannot provide required current for that voltage level ??)

Anyway, 2.88 V is near the 'safe' limit for these memories (2.95 V is max voltage, stated on datasheet)

--

Do you have picture of that card, or label for that different MOSFET ? Do you mean MOSFET's (3 pcs, two with 8 legs and one has 5) above of GW-label (left/bottom corner) ? Take a look figures in post #1 (e.g. Fig 5) ?

money2
06-22-2005, 12:59 AM
Sorry Sika, i am underway in vacation - somwhere in nowhere^^
so i ll let you know when i am back :-)
see you soon

money

Sidolin
06-22-2005, 04:47 AM
Hi,
I've got a Msi 6800le with the black screen "feature". (Its one with the 4 6 capacitor). I really tried every capmod (except the newest one), but everytime after about 1-2 hours, i got blackscreens. Without these mod, i get blackscreens after 5-15 minutes.

But, then i discovered something really interesting: When i run these games in windowed Mode, they work for hours, i never got a single blackscreen, when playing windowed :woot: (i prefer linux, so i use an extra X-server and fvwm to play games, and i configured it to just draw a small black border, about 5 pixels at the top and the left of the screen, and gta:sa worked for more than 10 hours without a blackscreen! With 700mhz memory frequency)
But when i move the window, so theres no border on the screen, i get bs, just like before. I'll try out later, how big the border has to be to get no blackscreens.

Anyone knows why it works in windowed mode? A explanation would be quite interesting...

Greets from Germany,
Sidolin

SikaRippa
06-22-2005, 06:51 AM
Sorry Sika, i am underway in vacation - somwhere in nowhere^^
so i ll let you know when i am back :-)
see you soon

money

No problem, have a nice trip :) . I will also be in vacation starting from friday :D :D

SikaRippa
06-22-2005, 07:03 AM
Hi,
I've got a Msi 6800le with the black screen "feature". (Its one with the 4 6 capacitor). I really tried every capmod (except the newest one), but everytime after about 1-2 hours, i got blackscreens. Without these mod, i get blackscreens after 5-15 minutes.

But, then i discovered something really interesting: When i run these games in windowed Mode, they work for hours, i never got a single blackscreen, when playing windowed :woot: (i prefer linux, so i use an extra X-server and fvwm to play games, and i configured it to just draw a small black border, about 5 pixels at the top and the left of the screen, and gta:sa worked for more than 10 hours without a blackscreen! With 700mhz memory frequency)
But when i move the window, so theres no border on the screen, i get bs, just like before. I'll try out later, how big the border has to be to get no blackscreens.

Anyone knows why it works in windowed mode? A explanation would be quite interesting...

Greets from Germany,
Sidolin

Thank you info ! Caps "4 6 470 6E" are rare, but I think that at least now those can be considerd as 100% BS-caps..

--

It might be good idea for you to test 'Enhanced version of cap mod'. Somebody reported similar problem you have i.e. the original cap mod did not help, BUT with the new one card is working ! And he had also MSI like you..

--

Explanation ? Impossible to give 100 % reliable answer, here is my guess. When running in window the load for graphic card is not so high compared to full screen. And the propability to get BS is related to load (=memory usage). I wonder you would get lower value for e.g. 3dmark03 when running in window (?)

So, you got BS when running these games under Linux ? What emulator you are using, cvswinex/winex ?

Sidolin
06-22-2005, 07:53 AM
It might be good idea for you to test 'Enhanced version of cap mod'. Somebody reported similar problem you have i.e. the original cap mod did not help, BUT with the new one card is working ! And he had also MSI like you..

I'll test this later, with a 4700/16 and a 1000/6.3 capacitor...


Explanation ? Impossible to give 100 % reliable answer, here is my guess. When running in window the load for graphic card is not so high compared to full screen. And the propability to get BS is related to load (=memory usage). I wonder you would get lower value for e.g. 3dmark03 when running in window (?)
Theres no 3dmark for linux, but in ut2004 for example, which runs without a windows emulator due to a great linux port, i get exactly the same fps with a 1280x1024 window and the fullscreen version with the same resolution...


So, you got BS when running these games under Linux ? What emulator you are using, cvswinex/winex ?
I use cedega (cedega is only the new winex with a new name), but some games run without it, like neverwinter nights or ut. I get blackscreens with nwn, ut and cedega games.

SikaRippa
06-22-2005, 08:20 AM
Theres no 3dmark for linux, but in ut2004 for example, which runs without a windows emulator due to a great linux port, i get exactly the same fps with a 1280x1024 window and the fullscreen version with the same resolution...



Yes, that true (and pity). So, 3dmark is not running under cedega ? However, the performance difference that triggers BS can be VERY TINY. As I explained in that document several things have some effect to BS-propability. E.g win98 vs win2000 using the same hardware etc. could result different results. Having different PSU or added capacitors to molex-connectors etc. My point was that when having windowed or full screen might give performance difference enough to trigger BS.

I wonder, when having full screen in cedega/linux, is the X-window manager down ? In that case the memory usage etc. might be totally different (due to different drivers or libraries) ?




I use cedega (cedega is only the new winex with a new name), but some games run without it, like neverwinter nights or ut. I get blackscreens with nwn, ut and cedega games.

I am (also) a big linux fanatic :D, but have not so far tested cedega. Tried cvswinex once, but it was disappointment since I could not get any 'good' programs working.
Can you recommend cedega for gaming ?

Sidolin
06-22-2005, 09:55 AM
I wonder, when having full screen in cedega/linux, is the X-window manager down ? In that case the memory usage etc. might be totally different (due to different drivers or libraries) ?
No, the windowmanager is still running, there should be no difference between windowed and fullscreen windows.


I am (also) a big linux fanatic , but have not so far tested cedega. Tried cvswinex once, but it was disappointment since I could not get any 'good' programs working.
Can you recommend cedega for gaming ?
Cedega is quite good, if you only play very popular games, mostly only they are supported. Theres a webpage, where you can see, if your game is supported: transgaming.org/gamesdb (if a game has four or more start, theres no problem, 3 stars mean there are some bug, and below three stars the game mostly wont even start ;)
But if the game's supported, you even can get higher framerates than with windows!

Flib
06-22-2005, 10:16 AM
I think I got Blackscreen!

Gainward 6800LE,
Caps postet above.
Baught the card on 25.05.2005
Card was at 8/6 (all Pixel Pipelines were damaged)
Voltage from 1.1 to 1.3
Clocked to 420/850

I clocked it back to standard but it didn't help.

A quick Question:
Does the screen go black (Like you view a black picture in fullscreen)
or does the monitor get no signal? (LED on Monitor blinks - Like the Computer is off)

My led blinks.

I don't think I will do the Capmad, cause they were only 8 Pixel Pipelines working, I will flash it back to 1.1V and RMA it.
I don't see why I should loose warranty cause of faulty caps...

SikaRippa
06-22-2005, 02:19 PM
No, the windowmanager is still running, there should be no difference between windowed and fullscreen windows.


Ok.. yes I know that fvwm or similar process is running, but I just doubt if the graphics are generated 'by other means' when in a window X-windows or in full screen. In old linux version there was so called '(s)vga-lib', which was used to generate full screen graphics and in this 'mode' the normal X was momentarily 'shut off/down'. Today this is most likely done with Xfree86 & OpenGL-libraries & NV-drivers. I am not expert about how 'they do trick', but some trick is required since in old-school UNIX (X-windows) there was no way to have full screen graphics - only windows under X (I have mostly been using Solaris ;) familiar to you?)




Cedega is quite good, if you only play very popular games, mostly only they are supported. Theres a webpage, where you can see, if your game is supported: transgaming.org/gamesdb (if a game has four or more start, theres no problem, 3 stars mean there are some bug, and below three stars the game mostly wont even start ;)
But if the game's supported, you even can get higher framerates than with windows!



Thank's about info. I had a feeling that the situation is as you explained: the code is optimized for some titles (GTA/WC3..) and other games are most likely not working.

It nice to heard that Linux gives better performance, even when emulating windows :D :D :D - this shows how unoptimized code there exists inside window$

SikaRippa
06-22-2005, 03:02 PM
I think I got Blackscreen!

Gainward 6800LE,
Caps postet above.
Baught the card on 25.05.2005
Card was at 8/6 (all Pixel Pipelines were damaged)
Voltage from 1.1 to 1.3
Clocked to 420/850

I clocked it back to standard but it didn't help.

A quick Question:
Does the screen go black (Like you view a black picture in fullscreen)
or does the monitor get no signal? (LED on Monitor blinks - Like the Computer is off)

My led blinks.

I don't think I will do the Capmad, cause they were only 8 Pixel Pipelines working, I will flash it back to 1.1V and RMA it.
I don't see why I should loose warranty cause of faulty caps...

I checked your old post:



I've got a Gainward 6800LE with these caps:
"4 8 470 6E" - usually no BS when new, BS after some months (MSI, GW)

Let's see how it does in a few months then
The card runs at 12/6 und 390/850 (stock voltage - stock cooler)

If it gets BS, I will replace the caps


So you had "4 8 470 6E" caps and it worked 12/6 for a while... less than one MONTH !! That is 'best'=worst result so far..

RMA that ASAP !!

--

About BS: I had like 'black picture'. Computer 'running' (=CPU fan), and I did not get 'check cable'-message (usually obtained when cable is removed). BUT my monitor does not blink led at any case (this feature depends on model ?), so maybe these results can not be compared.

--

I have been simulating the operation of the power supply of 6800-card (I will add results to document.. when they are ready), and hopefully I could give a more accurate theory about reason why those caps will fail after some weeks - months. I am (now) quite sure that those caps ARE GOOD (=meet their own specifications !!!!) BEFORE installed to those cards, and the (faulty) operation of the card will destroy them.

Flib
06-23-2005, 04:48 AM
Yes, I will return it. Could only run 8 Pixel, thought it are 12, but in some games I got artifacts.

I dont mean the message, that the Cable isn't connected to the monitor.
What happens when your computer is off, but the monitor is on?
My monitor blinks, what does yours?

This BS is BS!

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 05:55 AM
Yes, I will return it. Could only run 8 Pixel, thought it are 12, but in some games I got artifacts.

I dont mean the message, that the Cable isn't connected to the monitor.
What happens when your computer is off, but the monitor is on?
My monitor blinks, what does yours?

This BS is BS!

My monitor does not blink in any case i.e. BS appears in different manner for us due to this.

No doubt, I am sure you have BS ;)

julianus
06-23-2005, 07:16 AM
Sorry for te late reply, i was not around & had to remove my NV5 to check the capicitators on my XFX 6800LE. They are 44 470 6E. Still running well with the extra capacitator.

Flib
06-23-2005, 07:44 AM
I put voltage back to 1.1V
so far no BS.

Let's see how long it takes to get BS with 1.1V
Can'T return it, when it isn't BS affected with 1.1V.

So wait 2 or 3 weeks ^^

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 08:02 AM
Sorry for te late reply, i was not around & had to remove my NV5 to check the capicitators on my XFX 6800LE. They are 44 470 6E. Still running well with the extra capacitator.

No problem, nice that you care to remove NV :)

Good info !! It was not before 100% clear that those caps fail too. In fact the more data is collected the more clear it is that most/all (?) fail after some period - the code only (???) indicates HOW fast this propably will happen.

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 08:05 AM
I put voltage back to 1.1V
so far no BS.

Let's see how long it takes to get BS with 1.1V
Can'T return it, when it isn't BS affected with 1.1V.

So wait 2 or 3 weeks ^^

That is true (but sad): you should get BS during normal operation to get it RMA'd.
Have you already tested with SkiAlpine-demo ?

julianus
06-23-2005, 08:56 AM
BTW i tried all kinds of voltages in my card, from 1.1 (original) to 1.4 (Asus 9999GT). With all voltages i had crashes before i did the cap-mod, only with higher voltage it crashed earlier. Now all voltages work. I have it at 1.3 now i think, 16pp, 5 vs, 360/720. Hope this capacitator holds out for a bit, i have a 3 day lanparty tomorrow!! :+D Thx again for your help SikaRippa!! I'll try and spread the word.

Godefroy
06-23-2005, 09:19 AM
How do you change the voltage of the card, with what software? What will it do to my card? (GW 6800 LE). And what means RMA??????

I tried to find capacitors in the 2 TV local repair shops of my little french town and didn't find ANY (they don't sell any :@), and buying them on the internet will cost me 6x their price cause of the transport costs.... I feel angry lol :\\\\\ Are their any other type of shops that sell these caps? (not specialized, cause that would force me to go in PARIS to buy it :s )



EDITED (to not post again the same day):
I don't know if it is the place to talk about performance, but:

I just tested my card on AQUAMARK 3 and im a bit frustrated....
SCORE: 25712 (1024x768 32bits AA off aniso 4X details very HIGH)
Exploring results of 6800LE owners on the aquamark3.com forum i see results like 70000 :slobber:

So what i want to know is: is my config (XP2000+ 512mb PC2100) slowing my card a lot???? What config do you advice me to choose to solve the problem? I saw the famous T BREAK benchs page had a result of 42000..... :confused:

Flib
06-23-2005, 09:42 AM
How do you change the voltage of the card, with what software?
You have to read out the Bios w9ith a Dos boot disk with nvflash end edit the bios in nibitor and flash it back

What will it do to my card? (GW 6800 LE)
You would achieve higher Core Clocks 0.1V are mostely about a 20mhz increase.

And what means RMA??????
RMA means to send to Card back to the manfactuar.

@Rippa:
No SkyAlpine Demo.
I testet 3dMark 03 and GTA San Andreas.
3D Mark 03 was very sensitive.
When the error occurs at 1.1V I can go to the shop, show them that the card doesn't work and get my 150€ back, because they don'T have the card in stock. I think I will add 30€ to gut a full 6800 GFX card.
Is the 6800 also BS affected?

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 03:47 PM
BTW i tried all kinds of voltages in my card, from 1.1 (original) to 1.4 (Asus 9999GT). With all voltages i had crashes before i did the cap-mod, only with higher voltage it crashed earlier. Now all voltages work. I have it at 1.3 now i think, 16pp, 5 vs, 360/720. Hope this capacitator holds out for a bit, i have a 3 day lanparty tomorrow!! :+D Thx again for your help SikaRippa!! I'll try and spread the word.

I'll hope cap stand the lan-party :up:

--

Wait a minute .. You did cap mod to Asus 9999GT ?? But... it has a different PCB ??

--

Go for it to help/advice people suffereing this problem :clap:

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 03:53 PM
How do you change the voltage of the card, with what software? What will it do to my card? (GW 6800 LE). And what means RMA??????

I tried to find capacitors in the 2 TV local repair shops of my little french town and didn't find ANY (they don't sell any :@), and buying them on the internet will cost me 6x their price cause of the transport costs.... I feel angry lol :\\\\\ Are their any other type of shops that sell these caps? (not specialized, cause that would force me to go in PARIS to buy it :s )



EDITED (to not post again the same day):
I don't know if it is the place to talk about performance, but:

I just tested my card on AQUAMARK 3 and im a bit frustrated....
SCORE: 25712 (1024x768 32bits AA off aniso 4X details very HIGH)
Exploring results of 6800LE owners on the aquamark3.com forum i see results like 70000 :slobber:

So what i want to know is: is my config (XP2000+ 512mb PC2100) slowing my card a lot???? What config do you advice me to choose to solve the problem? I saw the famous T BREAK benchs page had a result of 42000..... :confused:

I will have a capacitor *special* offer :D, read the next update of the document... coming very soon.

--

I got AQUAMARK 3 score of ~38000 with AMD 2400+. Maybe this test is very sensible to CPU.

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 03:57 PM
@Rippa:
No SkyAlpine Demo.
I testet 3dMark 03 and GTA San Andreas.
3D Mark 03 was very sensitive.
When the error occurs at 1.1V I can go to the shop, show them that the card doesn't work and get my 150€ back, because they don'T have the card in stock. I think I will add 30€ to gut a full 6800 GFX card.
Is the 6800 also BS affected?

OK... some 6800-cards might be BS-affected. In this thread one post (I could not remember 'name') with MSI 6800 having BS.

Take ASUS or GT to avoid these problems

SikaRippa
06-23-2005, 04:09 PM
Version 1.9 of document posted:


FREE REPLACEMENT CAPACITORS AVAILABLE (see most wanted list for details)

---

SikaRippa is 'out-of-office' (vacation = BS ? :rolleyes: ) -> 25.7.2005 (I will *REALLY* be out of this project for a while i.e. answer questions only FEW times before that)

dandaman
06-24-2005, 08:24 AM
i thought the Asus cards didnt BS!!!???

the idiots at the company im dealin with are now saying that they wont exchange my faulty MSI for a different card and are offering me a refund, which im guessing will be 180 pounds.

What does everyobidy think is the best card i can buy for that?

Flib
06-25-2005, 01:00 AM
Take ASUS or GT to avoid these problems

He said so!
In the EU it's like this:
When a company tries to change a product 3 times without success you can get your money back.

dandaman
06-26-2005, 04:15 AM
so what about the Gigabyte GV-N68128DH (128 MB) ??? any reports of BS problems with that?

its one of the silent cooler ones, a 6800le

other wise im looking at the Asus V9999 or V9999GT

any advice?

Flib
06-26-2005, 12:47 PM
Is it a passive one?
Haven't heard yet about BS with Gigabyte but the Passive card runs much too hot.
There is a high success rate in activating Pipelines with Asus Card.

dandaman
06-27-2005, 03:18 AM
yeah, its the passive one.

noise is important to me and ive read in one review that the Asus 9999GT (128MB) fan is noisy and doesnt vary in speed according to use, which is odd because Asus says it does.....

i have read the passive gigabyte can run hot but i never get to play heavy games for more than a couple of hours at a time anyway.....

damn i dont know what to do!

:confused:

dandaman
06-27-2005, 04:24 AM
i think the guys that did that Asus review must have forgotten to install the Smartdoctor software because they said it was really noisy and i cant find any other reviews that mention it being noisy

im leaning more towards the Asus

julianus
06-27-2005, 04:59 PM
Wait a minute .. You did cap mod to Asus 9999GT ?? But... it has a different PCB ??



Hehe no, i just flashed in the 9999 bios. It ups the voltage to the core, also the standard clockrates.

The cap survived many many frags during the LAN-party, and also some pretty extreme wars :+]

BTW It was really warm there, but NP :+]

SikaRippa
07-03-2005, 03:23 AM
Is it a passive one?
Haven't heard yet aso what about the Gigabyte GV-N68128DH (128 MB) ??? any reports of BS problems with that?

its one of the silent cooler ones, a 6800le

other wise im looking at the Asus V9999 or V9999GT

any advice?

I think refund/ASUS/anything is better than a NEW MSI, since there is no guarantee to get a working one from MSI/(GW).

I took a brief look about that Gigabyte, is it the same as this one (??)

http://img.neoseeker.com/v_image.php?articleid=1734&image=7

This card have the same PCB as MSI/GW/etc., so in theory it can give BS (I have not heard any comments yet: BS or non-BS)

--

Still having vacation = no internet :( , so I will not propably answer next time not until ~ a week.

(I edited the quote, which was a wrong one)

SikaRippa
07-03-2005, 03:26 AM
Hehe no, i just flashed in the 9999 bios. It ups the voltage to the core, also the standard clockrates.

The cap survived many many frags during the LAN-party, and also some pretty extreme wars :+]

BTW It was really warm there, but NP :+]

Nice, I hope (sure) you had good time :D

--

So, you have a cap in ASUS 9999 card ? Is the layout of the card similar to e.g. GW 6800le-card shown in the document ?

Flib
07-03-2005, 05:57 AM
€dit:
Game had problems!

Someone get this problem too?
Get them in every game now:
System freezes for about 5 secons, then game continues.
With 1,3V this bug got really extreme... 5second freeze...3seconds play...5secons freeze....3secons play...

Now I only get this bug once a hour.

I'M now having a 16V 1650uf Cap in TP9 and TP10.
Let's see if the problems are gone.

Can somebody tell me why I can't oc my memory higher than 840mhz without artifacts?
The specs of the memory say that it should do 900mhz+
It's Hynix 2,2ns.

€dit2:
I downloaded the datasheet and they should run at 450mhz
VDD 2,8V VDDQ 2,8V

Can someone give me the measure points?

SikaRippa
07-03-2005, 01:54 PM
€dit:
Game had problems!

Someone get this problem too?
Get them in every game now:
System freezes for about 5 secons, then game continues.
With 1,3V this bug got really extreme... 5second freeze...3seconds play...5secons freeze....3secons play...

Now I only get this bug once a hour.

I'M now having a 16V 1650uf Cap in TP9 and TP10.
Let's see if the problems are gone.

Can somebody tell me why I can't oc my memory higher than 840mhz without artifacts?
The specs of the memory say that it should do 900mhz+
It's Hynix 2,2ns.

€dit2:
I downloaded the datasheet and they should run at 450mhz
VDD 2,8V VDDQ 2,8V

Can someone give me the measure points?

Sorry, I quoted a wrong post.. Gigabyte comments were for dandaman

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There have been stories about similar problems i.e short freezes during games. I do not know (remember) if there is a one-fits-all solution but at least by setting Agp Fastwrite = off should have some impact. Maybe (=I hope) the cap will have some effect..

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About OC of memories. Those chips are more or less unique so the OC-cabability varies. As you can see (already seen ;) ) the more speed is used the more voltage is required. A voltage of 2.8 V is indeed for 450 MHz operation (2.72 V is a normal voltage). If you want the alter memory voltage please take a look post #1 (the BS document) in chapter 'Memory voltage modification'. There is a VERY easy way to do it. The measure points are between TP10 and TP9 (surprise !!)

Flib
07-04-2005, 02:00 AM
I measured my Rams and they show 2,7V.
So when I do a vMod to about 2,8V-2,9V they have to do the 900mhz, right?

Tomorrow I will use some better caps.
When using TP9-Ground cap I don't need to do a TP1-Ground cap, is that right?
Currently I am not having a BS or freezing with the new cap,
but sometimes I get BS during booting. When the system has booted up all is fine.

Does VDD tracks to VDDQ automatically?

dandaman
07-05-2005, 04:36 AM
yeah, thats the one!

i had decided on the ASUS GT but the offer on the site i had seen it on for 150 pounds has just ended! damn it.

ive found the Asus 6800 LE for 120 pounds! hows that then? the Asus LE is BS free right?

SikaRippa
07-11-2005, 07:09 AM
I measured my Rams and they show 2,7V.
So when I do a vMod to about 2,8V-2,9V they have to do the 900mhz, right?

Tomorrow I will use some better caps.
When using TP9-Ground cap I don't need to do a TP1-Ground cap, is that right?
Currently I am not having a BS or freezing with the new cap,
but sometimes I get BS during booting. When the system has booted up all is fine.

Does VDD tracks to VDDQ automatically?

Sorry, Took a little bit again to answer :(

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Having greater Vmem SHOULD give boost to frequency, not guaranteed because unique chips..

Yes, if you have cap between TP10-TP9 you do not need cap in TP1, since those nodes are the shorted inside the card TP10 = TP1.


It is quite wierd to get BS while booting... exactly in what point ? Before windows is starting ?

SikaRippa
07-11-2005, 07:14 AM
yeah, thats the one!

i had decided on the ASUS GT but the offer on the site i had seen it on for 150 pounds has just ended! damn it.

ive found the Asus 6800 LE for 120 pounds! hows that then? the Asus LE is BS free right?

Is there anything *sure* in world .. but I have NEVER heard BS-problems with ANY ASUS models, reason is totally different design of the graphic card (i.e. switching power supplies).

Take that one !! (if you have not already done..)

dandaman
07-11-2005, 10:54 AM
thanks.

unfortunately, the constantly changing situations wont allow me to. After insisting that i take a refund the supplier is refusing me a refund!

they really are useless. what i can or cant do or have depends on the day and/or customer service rep i talk to.

the latest is that they are telling me that i cant have a refund (which last week they insited i had to accept) because i bought a system and not the card alone so can only have a replacement!

:slapass:

i have to talk to the manager tomorrow to argue my case for not getting a fourth MSI card. but these idiots dont stock ASUS.

If i can manage to get a non MSI card replacement it will likely be a Connect 3D X800 Pro 256MB. fingers crossed

SikaRippa
07-11-2005, 12:38 PM
thanks.

unfortunately, the constantly changing situations wont allow me to. After insisting that i take a refund the supplier is refusing me a refund!

they really are useless. what i can or cant do or have depends on the day and/or customer service rep i talk to.

the latest is that they are telling me that i cant have a refund (which last week they insited i had to accept) because i bought a system and not the card alone so can only have a replacement!

:slapass:

i have to talk to the manager tomorrow to argue my case for not getting a fourth MSI card. but these idiots dont stock ASUS.

If i can manage to get a non MSI card replacement it will likely be a Connect 3D X800 Pro 256MB. fingers crossed

Sounds very *nice* company, indeed :( . Please, give a us the name of the company (just for warning for other users to avoid )

--

I wonder you should get ANYTHING (like X800 or money) except BS-card whenever they are in such *mood* giving some support/service/replacement.

dandaman
07-12-2005, 02:50 AM
i cant belive it!

they are now refusing to do anything unless i send the WHOLE SYSTEM back to them!!!!

they clearly think its impossible for four cards to be faulty and think its the system thats causing the problem. they wont send me another card or refund me unless i send them my PC.

they dont wanna know about BS.

im gutted. :explode2:

b*astards!

the company is Watford Electronics. its a Carrera system which i bought last year and Watford bought them when they went bust in January.

ive spent 6 months chasing them. ive had more than enuf

SikaRippa
07-12-2005, 04:06 AM
i cant belive it!

they are now refusing to do anything unless i send the WHOLE SYSTEM back to them!!!!

they clearly think its impossible for four cards to be faulty and think its the system thats causing the problem. they wont send me another card or refund me unless i send them my PC.

they dont wanna know about BS.

im gutted. :explode2:

b*astards!

the company is Watford Electronics. its a Carrera system which i bought last year and Watford bought them when they went bust in January.

ive spent 6 months chasing them. ive had more than enuf

So, that is the trick for today.. it sad such kind of companies exist :upset:

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How about taking that offer ? Send your PC back IF (!) you will get different graphic card. Yes, I know how *nice* it is to install everything again, but as a result you could finally have a working PC.

I will be 'offline' several days again, hope you get a decent deal meaning while ;)

dandaman
07-12-2005, 04:33 AM
thanks.

it wont get sorted in that time anyway!

mole101
07-15-2005, 04:33 AM
I have a 6800le 128mb agp oem made by point of view.
It has 2 green caps which have the code: 42 470 6e

The problems it has are not the same as far as i can see (please correct me if i am wrong).
It will boot go into windows etc etc But if i try and do anything abit more 3d intensive it crashs the game/benchmarking program. ie cs.cz will go into the main menu and just crash everytime.
I have a 500w true power psu and tried all the newest drivers older ones etc etc
cleaned all the drivers out in between.
On this set up i run a 6600gt normally. Before you say yes i know the 6600gt is more powerfull....i am trying to help out a friend....and he cant rma it...so
any ideas?

mole :) :D