$100 budget cooler

[blinky]

hey everyone, im currently building a cheap cpu cooler for my friend sheograth
the main restriction in this build is the $100 budget

heres some specs and a pic:
Embraco 1/5hp - $28 off ebay
chilly1 small condenser $20
shamino style cap evap $10
stainless flex line - $7
r290 refrigerant - $4
20' of 1/4" tubing - $10

$79 so far

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v339/blinky2183/pictar123s.jpg

parts still needed:
compressor oil
.028 cap tube
evap base plate (already ordered)

[JSU]

I think you got a bad hose :( . if thats a washing machine line/ has a rubber inside you cant use it. You need one of those corrogated ones ofr gas. they are yellow alot of the time.

[embro]

check your pm

[blinky]

I think you got a bad hose :( . if thats a washing machine line/ has a rubber inside you cant use it. You need one of those corrogated ones ofr gas. they are yellow alot of the time.ok, LOL i got like 3 of those yellow lines in my room, but the problem with those is brazing to stainless steel, i gotta get myself some high silver content braze :(

i had a feeling that suction line was gonna be bad, ow well

[blinky]

im going to pressure test the flex line tomorrow, i got this hose if that one wont work i got this

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v339/blinky2183/pictar124.jpg

[kayl]

ok, LOL i got like 3 of those yellow lines in my room, but the problem with those is brazing to stainless steel, i gotta get myself some high silver content braze :(

i had a feeling that suction line was gonna be bad, ow well

brazing stainless steel to copper can be done with 15% silver brown tip).
with the correct heating and use of white flux

[Russell_hq]

I hear that those hoses expand in length quite considerably, you may want to get one with a stainless steel braid. If you do use it, then I would advise not to run the cap tube inside it but instead wrap it around the outside.

[DGeNeRaT3]

If you can accomplish this build for around $100 bucks, that will truely be impressive. I sure would like to know where you guys get those perfect little condensers.

[Tyrou]

Chilly1 sells these condensers ;)

[_Eduard_]

OMFG where the f*ck do you get all that stuff so cheap? only $4 for a canister of r290 (propane)? and $28 for a 1/5 hp compressor? lol... that would be easily 4x as expensive here... can you build me one too? I'll give ya 200 euro's (about $250)

[REDKEN]

If it's not too much trouble and you have the time.
Could you post the dimensions of the condensor? I'm planning on doing a shroud for one before I get it.
http://img86.exs.cx/img86/7053/pictar123scopy9yd.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

Good luck with your build

Thanks :toast:

P.S.:
evap base plate (already ordered) Where?

[JSU]

you dont need to braze the hose in. just get some 3/8in flare washers and you should make a good/leak free flare connection to the copper.

[LostInSpace278]

HxWxD=3 3/4"x6"x4 1/2"

[blinky]

you dont need to braze the hose in. just get some 3/8in flare washers and you should make a good/leak free flare connection to the copper.i spent two hours yesterday at two different stores finding fitings that fit these threads, and nothing fit. apparently these use "compression" threds which are different from normal pipe threads

so.... i gave up and cut off the nuts at the end with my hacksaw, so ill definitely solder this one

[blinky]

If it's not too much trouble and you have the time.
Could you post the dimensions of the condensor? I'm planning on doing a shroud for one before I get it.
http://img86.exs.cx/img86/7053/pictar123scopy9yd.jpg (http://www.imageshack.us)

Good luck with your build

Thanks :toast:

P.S.: Where?height = 6"
width = 4.25"
depth = 3.75"
the little metal tab is 1/2" wide

i ordered from onlinemetals.com

[REDKEN]

HxWxD=3 3/4"x6"x4 1/2"
:toast: :toast:

[blinky]

I hear that those hoses expand in length quite considerably, you may want to get one with a stainless steel braid. If you do use it, then I would advise not to run the cap tube inside it but instead wrap it around the outside.yah ill definitely wrap it on the outside

[REDKEN]

height = 6"
width = 4.25"
depth = 3.75"
the little metal tab is 1/2" wide

i ordered from onlinemetals.com

Thanks! We must have posted at the same time. I didn't see your post there:) :toast:

[Eradicator]

i spent two hours yesterday at two different stores finding fitings that fit these threads, and nothing fit. apparently these use "compression" threds which are different from normal pipe threads

so.... i gave up and cut off the nuts at the end with my hacksaw, so ill definitely solder this one


They are fine thread 3/8" flare.. I have had luck finding them at lowes and at a local plumbing shop... Only way I have ever gotten a leak proof seal is either to make copper gaskets for them by flaring a 3/8" copper pipe and cutting the flare off or by using this blue stuff called leak lock.. Stainless to brass no matter how tight still leaks, well for me anyways.. Good luck with the build..

[GunnerMan]

Wow 100 bucks, I need to look at Ebay more closley....

[gkiing]

They are fine thread 3/8" flare.. I have had luck finding them at lowes and at a local plumbing shop... Only way I have ever gotten a leak proof seal is either to make copper gaskets for them by flaring a 3/8" copper pipe and cutting the flare off or by using this blue stuff called leak lock.. Stainless to brass no matter how tight still leaks, well for me anyways.. Good luck with the build..

Don't use blue leak lock, it's awful to remove and leaks after a few months. It's often the reason behind the failure of many many commercial units (walk ins etc). Loctite makes a good thread sealant, ill try and find the part # and get back here.

[gclg2000]

I've used the blue leak lock on my cascade. On the 1st stage TEV. It held over 400psi for server hours no problems. And held 100psi for 5 days w/o moving.

Not try to over rule gkiing, but it has worked out for me fine. not only on flaire fittings but on other stuff too.

[Sheograth]

:).

[Eradicator]

I've used the blue leak lock on my cascade. On the 1st stage TEV. It held over 400psi for server hours no problems. And held 100psi for 5 days w/o moving.

Not try to over rule gkiing, but it has worked out for me fine. not only on flaire fittings but on other stuff too.


Yah Ive been using the stuff for two years on various single stage DD units, not a leak yet, not to say it cant or will not happen though.. Im no expert, just learn as I go.

[JSU]

well i hope that doesnt happen to me, i love the stuff! btw blinky you should have asked someone to send you the parts before you cut off the ends. iam sure there are a ton of member including myself who could have sent them in a small envelope...

[Cra$h 0veride]

It is illegal, in canada at least to use compression fittings for gas

[Revv23]

looking good so far blinky ;)

[blinky]

pressure testin... doesnt look good :( ... dropped from 110 to 50psi... could it be the thread fittings? im gonna go buy some pipe thread sealant tomorrow
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v339/blinky2183/pictar125.jpg


the base plate for the cap evap arrived: :)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v339/blinky2183/pictar126.jpg

[gkiing]

It's that teflon hose leaking.. my best guess.. or your charging hoses

if you do want to use propane (some might consider this foolish), at least use it with the can upright so you're not testing with liquid propane.

[stockhatch]

Looks like some good progress. I hope you can get that suction sorted out.

Im just thinking out loud here, but how large is your smallest copper cap for your evap? I wonder if these can be too small? My take on it is that if pressure in the first cap can be minimized the liquid will boil off more quickly and evenly. This may be totally wrong, but if the cap gets too small couldnt you run into the majority of the refrigerant just being pushed into the next cap as a liquid because there is no room for expansion into a gas? This would not be good for cooling obviously as the center cap is right over the die. Let me know if this doesnt sound right. I used a 1/2" cap for my smallest one. and drilled a pretty good sized hole in it to try and avoid this. I hope somebody who knows more about these types of things can clarify this :)

[Revv23]

Looks like some good progress. I hope you can get that suction sorted out.

Im just thinking out loud here, but how large is your smallest copper cap for your evap? I wonder if these can be too small? My take on it is that if pressure in the first cap can be minimized the liquid will boil off more quickly and evenly. This may be totally wrong, but if the cap gets too small couldnt you run into the majority of the refrigerant just being pushed into the next cap as a liquid because there is no room for expansion into a gas? This would not be good for cooling obviously as the center cap is right over the die. Let me know if this doesnt sound right. I used a 1/2" cap for my smallest one. and drilled a pretty good sized hole in it to try and avoid this. I hope somebody who knows more about these types of things can clarify this :)


i am certainly not qualified to answer this, but from reading up on everything i can find, you theory is correct, you want as little pressure in the evap as possible, you want the refridgerant in the evap as long as possible, but you also want it moving quickly, from what i understand, this is why chilly1's evaps work so well, not very restrictive, and has tons of surface area for the refridgerant to evaporate in.

if the first cap was too small from my understanding, the refriderant would not be able to evaporate until it got to the outer shells of the evap, which would prevent the refridgerant from taking away heat in the hottest part of the evap.

please anyone correct me if im wrong.

[bh2k]

Man blinky those charging hoses are oooldddddd

[gkiing]

I think that something as small as a 3/8" or 1/4" cap could be used, because the channels in many blocks such as the prometia block are only 5 mm wide or so, yet the compressor is able to maintain a low pressure environment on the end of the captube. I think that it would have to be really restrictive nearly replicating the captube such as if a 1/8" pipe were used as an evap.

[blinky]

dont worry guys, for the first cap im drilling a 3/8" hole in the top

[hatemi]

TEst the hose under water to see if it leaks:)

[LardArse]

Well its hard to see what its like in the evap during the run... but I recall Gary our good teacher saying that the refrigerant would start to vapourise very quickly when out of the cap tube so I would think that even the smallest starting cap would be partly vapour already.

[Russell_hq]

If you look on a pressure enthalpy chart you will see the quality of the vapour (how much gas there is), if you look you will see that 20-50% of the liquid becomes vapour at the evaporating pressure depending on what gas you use

[blinky]

TEst the hose under water to see if it leaks:)thanks ill try that


Well its hard to see what its like in the evap during the run... but I recall Gary our good teacher saying that the refrigerant would start to vapourise very quickly when out of the cap tube so I would think that even the smallest starting cap would be partly vapour already.yah, i think it will be fine

[blinky]

ok i did up the gas line flex hose ill be using for suction line now
with enough flux the solder flows real nicely :)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v339/blinky2183/pictar135s.jpg

[webbyboy]

Hello just want to know where did you get those caps? :D

[BigPanda]

plumbing supply store is my guess.

[gkiing]

looks good just clean the excess flux off (the white stuff is fluoride)

[blinky]

Hello just want to know where did you get those caps? :D

plumbing supply store is my guess.yep :)


looks good just clean the excess flux off (the white stuff is fluoride)yah ill do that


im waiting on cap tube to do up the evap, im waiting on the case from chilly to put it all together

the case pushed me over the budget, but its okay cuz it will look rad :)

[Sheograth]

Yeh I figured I wanted the case, its still cheap overall, but will look much more professional. Especially considering that for the most part I use my computers in cases themselves.

[bxa121]

looking good blinky, especially for the price you paid.

[Eradicator]

blinky, what flux and braze did you use to braze the SS hose to the copper?

[Tonic]

Fluoride paste and XX% silver brazing rods, dunno what's silver proportion

[blinky]

harris white flux and 45% silver solder

[Gogeta]

Looking good blinky. I'd like to see a few pics of the evap construction, especially installing the cap tube if you get an extra minute. :)

Thanks!

[total_assault]

iono if it is against the rules to post a link to another forum, but the mods will correct me if it is, here gogeta http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=134188 a step by step of building one of those evaps, i have built 3 myself (first two were failures due to my brazing inexperince)

[Gogeta]

iono if it is against the rules to post a link to another forum, but the mods will correct me if it is, here gogeta http://forums.extremeoverclocking.com/showthread.php?t=134188 a step by step of building one of those evaps, i have built 3 myself (first two were failures due to my brazing inexperince)

Ah thanks total_assault. And thanks to JSU for writing the guide. ;)

[JSU]

lol i made that guide ages ago, btw that was before lardarse had one. his is alot better than mine.

[blinky]

nice guide JSU, when i do up my evap im going to write a small guide to show my method