temps too high :(

[JRY]

hi all

have just finished setting up my pelt rig,
consists of maze4 waterblock with 232W pelt
powered by meanwell psu
dual heatercore with 2x120mm fans sucking away.
and 1x black ice pro after the heatercore.
laing pump

current temp fluctuates like mad :(
previously it was as high as 30C
now surprising its registering as 14?!?!
have reapplied AS5 and reseated the block.
screws are quite tight and almost all the way down

current overclock is only at 2.525ghz from an xp2500-M

was thinking that the meanwell is not properly set?
have used it straight out of the box.
i know u can vary the power output?
will have a look l8ter

am also thinking of resetting the block another time when more dielectric grease arrives.

any help appreciated
thx :)

[Silver]

Is the cold plate thin? If so do not over torque the screws as this may allow for poor contact with the tec due to bowing of the cold plate (assuming it does not break the tec). 1/4 inch cold plate should work nicely.

[Slickthellama]

ok i will need your voltages, pics of the setup if possible, is that 14 a mobo temp or cpu temp? I will need to know how your motherboard reads temps. Also, i need to know if your waterblock's copper is hot to the touch, warm to the touch, colt to the touch, etc. Exact ranges of voltages, previous temps. I have expierienced all the problems with TECs you can imagine but I need to know more to help.

[gkiing]

Temps with tec's are whack, often because the temp is read not on die but from underneat the cpu, which is usually covered in dielectric grease. I remember my temps use to bonk around from 30C to 10C to 5C to 26C etc etc, the only reliable way is a temp probe under the coldplate.

[JRY]

Originally posted by Silver
Is the cold plate thin? If so do not over torque the screws as this may allow for poor contact with the tec due to bowing of the cold plate (assuming it does not break the tec). 1/4 inch cold plate should work nicely.

the cold plate isnt that thin. it is around 1/4" inch thick :)


Originally posted by Slickthellama
ok i will need your voltages, pics of the setup if possible, is that 14 a mobo temp or cpu temp? I will need to know how your motherboard reads temps. Also, i need to know if your waterblock's copper is hot to the touch, warm to the touch, colt to the touch, etc. Exact ranges of voltages, previous temps. I have expierienced all the problems with TECs you can imagine but I need to know more to help.

core voltage is 1.85v in the bios. am using a NF7-S so it slightly undervolts?. 14 is the CPU temps. now its currently at 23C am using winbond hardware doctor which reads the temps using the thermister on the board. system temps is 21C currently. will use my own temperature probe later today as i've just received more dielectric grease. when u say exact range of voltage...do u mean wot settings i have in the bios? like ram voltages etc?

cpu core voltage: 1.85v
DDR voltage: 2.8v
chipset voltage: 1.7v


temps have been fluctuating like mad. everytime its high i keep tightening the bolts. doesnt seem 2 help.

am using two L joints. that might cause poor flow which causes bad temps? flow rates are
pump>dual heatercore>black ice pro>cpu>gpu>northbridge>tank-O-matik res


thanks guys

[JRY]

Originally posted by gkiing
Temps with tec's are whack, often because the temp is read not on die but from underneat the cpu, which is usually covered in dielectric grease. I remember my temps use to bonk around from 30C to 10C to 5C to 26C etc etc, the only reliable way is a temp probe under the coldplate.


yup
am going 2 stick a temp probe under it. issitt ok to sandwich it between the coldplate and the side of the chip? or maybe will stick it on the side of the cold plate

[JRY]

http://free.one.picturehost.co.uk/Resize%20Wizard-1.jpg

pic of the case with everything hooked up roughly
heatercore at the top of the case. connects to the black ice pro behind and exits at the back of the case as well(via L joints)

http://free.one.picturehost.co.uk/Resize%20Wizard-2.jpg

pic of the top half of the case. the meanwell psu is on the other side of the case. its enclosed in a box that i made for it :)


http://free.one.picturehost.co.uk/Resize%20Wizard-4.jpg

pic of the meanwell box at the other side of the case. its not complete yet. hence the wires coming out the fan holes :)
also pic of the tank o matic


http://free.one.picturehost.co.uk/Resize%20Wizard-3.jpg

pic of the bottom half of the case. sorry pics are not of better quality.
wot do u guys think of the meanwell box? :) have run out of space in my case...so decided it had 2 be mounted else where.

[JRY]

ok guys....have a probe on the cold plate now :)
running at 2.525ghz
probe temp is around the 8C mark
should i assume this is the most accurate?

have downloaded and am now using abit monitoring software
its saying 15C

[Slickthellama]

i hope to god im not seeing what i am... um... thats really dumb, you dont use TECs with plain water blocks... dont ever do that... that heatercore can only support that TEC by itself, not the CPU, chipset and TEC... that's too much load... um, i dunno where you go from here but you have a choice to make, keep the TEC or keep the chipset and the GPU cooling... but you absolutely cannot keep both.

[gkiing]

he's right, mixing tec and non tec's isint a good idea, unless the tec is only on the gpu and the cpu is plain water. I would trust the temp probe on the coldplate the most, the other temperatures are likely incorrect. If the probe is reading 8c, it means your cpu temp is probably a few C higher. That's about average for 2.5ghz by the way.

[JRY]

am sorry :( :stick:
never read that u arent supposed 2 do that!!
but am still learning
hmm..well i can remove my northbridge....but can i keep my graphics block? or will i have 2 remove that too?
guess will have 2 do that heatsink mod for the graphics i've always wanted 2 do :P

sorted the probe
temps are about right.
i guess that's the main reason for the fluctuation?
i came down to the conclusion that the rad cant dissapate enough of the heat.
this again brings us back to wot u guys said. max temps was about 22C full load at 2.535ghz. cant seem 2 push more than that :(

so u guys think i will be able to push further if i lose the chipset and graphics?(or just lose the chipset?)

[JRY]

ok guys...i think am gonna run just the pelt block :D
it make sense that am actually feeding warm water from the pelt to the rest of the parts....

sigh...sorry 4 the silly mistake :stick:

[Slickthellama]

no problem sir, we are all learning.

[JRY]

cheers m8
just running the tec block now.
temps seem fine. but will have 2 add another fan to the rad to improve cooling(only 2x120mm pulling atm)

running at 2.593ghz (225x11.5) temps are around the 12-13 mark
i guess it a little high? seems to be a really bad overclocker this chip. have had it to over 2.65 but temps were very high.
might have 2 do some v mods to push the fsb higer