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View Full Version : Help Wanted - Mach II faulty (and no nVentiv to support)



matt simis
06-05-2004, 04:09 AM
Hi,


Its a damn shame nVentiv are out of the picture, not only because I preferred their gear, but also because I was awaiting support/RMA from them. I havent got a reply in 2 weeks.

I have a Mach II and basically the "yellow wire" (the one that goes to Power On on the motherboard) from the base unit to the motherboard no longer "closes" during the boot up, ie it doesnt complete the circuit, the motherboard doesnt start.

The leds on the back tell me "System didnt respond during given time" or something to that effect. I have taken the side of the base unit off and confirmed the yellow wire is connected, which is was (loosely incidentially).

Ive tried changing the firmware and also confirmed the problem on the yellowwire with a multimeter.

Does anyone have any idea on whats wrong with this stupid yellow wire??



Matt


PS: Motherboard is an Shuttle AN50R

Ragnarok
06-05-2004, 04:17 AM
I get that problem sometimes with the shuttle as well, the board just wont start...

try run the Mach II off a seperate PSU

matt simis
06-05-2004, 04:26 AM
Really? Hmm...

Im working around it in a way at the moment:
I currently power on the MachII, let it cool, then it shuts off, then I wait till about 30 secs (that protection thing is on beforehand), then press the power button on the board it self (the tiny power buttons built directly onto the AN50R).
This then triggers the MachII to start.

However, the temps I get are lousy, right now its not even overclocked, only overvolted: 2200, 1.71v = +13 IDLE!

I was hoping that problem is related to not starting it properly.



Matt

texuspete00
06-05-2004, 07:51 AM
Or your board has no idea what the temperature is. ;)

NyCUndaGrounD
06-05-2004, 11:47 AM
I believe i have similar problem to you guys. MIne just plain doesnt start when i press the power on button. Everytime i wanna turn on computer i gotta take off side panel. remove the yellow wire and short it with a screwdriver then place the yellow wire back to the pins and then it will start normally reaching to -33 degrees to power on. Its not the motherboard that is the problem because i tried 2 p4c800-e and a Ic7-g and still same problem. Might be the front panel power on button.

matt simis
06-05-2004, 12:25 PM
Actually, after reading another post here and consulting the manual, as well as a little playing around, I think the problem with my unit is rather more serious that I first thought.

The temps are correct, and looking back at my recorded temps over the last few days, seem to have got dramatically worse.

The Yellow line is fine, the problem is the unit does not reach a low enough temperature to boot ("Too Slow", only red LED flashing). Its been getting worse and worse, though I dont believe it ever worked correctly (I posted here soon after I received the Mach II, the CPU temps I got on initial boots were worse than my Mach 1's). Im sorry to say it, but this is my 3rd faulty Prometeia (2x Mach 1, this Mach II). :(

Its quite likely the compressor pump is jammed/broken or there is a leak somewhere. Im wonder if there is another company handling warranty now, I think legally that usually how this works?


Matt

matt simis
06-05-2004, 12:29 PM
To make matters worse, I found that upon ringing the Support number from my manual ( 0045-72-40-1525 ) went through (eventually) to some Danish guy, who was apparently having a party, and told me that I had the wrong number. :mad:

While I wasnt expecting an answer (its Saturday), I thought they may have further info set up on their answering machine.


Matt

SAE
06-06-2004, 02:08 AM
My defective Mach1 was right in its RMA process... but now it wouldn't very likely be called back for repairs at all :(

matt simis
06-06-2004, 11:16 AM
Perhaps it would be easier for me to get this repair/refilled by a refrigerant specialist? Any tips on what Im asking for? Can a standard fridge repair guy detect and fix a leak?


Matt

SAE
06-06-2004, 11:41 AM
Originally posted by matt simis
Perhaps it would be easier for me to get this repair/refilled by a refrigerant specialist? Any tips on what Im asking for? Can a standard fridge repair guy detect and fix a leak?


Matt

I also wondered about that... but I don't trust their hands on one of my best pieces (of hardware of course, hehe :lol: )...

Often they only do bigger things like those IMO.

matt simis
06-06-2004, 01:07 PM
Good point.

I sent a mail off to:
http://store.over-clock.com/Refrigeration.html
(go to bottom of page)

Perhaps Ill turn this into an opportunity, get the leak fixed and regas to R507



Matt

HKY
06-06-2004, 07:09 PM
Originally posted by NyCUndaGrounD
I believe i have similar problem to you guys. MIne just plain doesnt start when i press the power on button. Everytime i wanna turn on computer i gotta take off side panel. remove the yellow wire and short it with a screwdriver then place the yellow wire back to the pins and then it will start normally reaching to -33 degrees to power on. Its not the motherboard that is the problem because i tried 2 p4c800-e and a Ic7-g and still same problem. Might be the front panel power on button.


I have the same problem a few weeks ago. It turns out that there is a leak around the joints of the high pressure tube. I took the unit to a local air-con guy that I know and get it fixed and recharge with 134a. Now its running again, but about 2C higher than before.

SAE
06-06-2004, 11:51 PM
Originally posted by HKY
I have the same problem a few weeks ago. It turns out that there is a leak around the joints of the high pressure tube. I took the unit to a local air-con guy that I know and get it fixed and recharge with 134a. Now its running again, but about 2C higher than before.

Did he add a Schrader valve? Is the compressor's bottom freezing under heavy load? Then it's overcharged for sure... would help the temps a lil, if you let out some gas under load (only minimal amounts, until you get optimal temps.

Could also be possible, there's some areas not insulated enough anymore... thus increasing temps... as Gary always says: the better the insulation, the better the temps.

That's what I learned from the phase change forums... so far :D

HKY
06-07-2004, 12:21 AM
No freezing etc.....I guess it is probably under charged rather than overcharged!

Anyway I'll probably recharge it when I can get a can of 404 here.

phobix
06-07-2004, 04:03 AM
Had I would of known they were in Bankcruptcy protection I would of bought an AMD-64 cpu kit. Now I can't seem to get them :( and it looks like I am stuck with my Socket 7 kit.

Does anyone know what is going on with Nventiv right now? Is JCviggen still working with them?

Reflex1
06-07-2004, 10:32 AM
this is why Nventiv is banbkrupt ...everyone send back their "faulty" MACH's as soon as something little is wrong...

2 days ago the temp sensor on my MACH II foked (i started a thread), but i'll just have to eat it. I now have changed the booting temp to 0C ! ...since the lowest temp. it reads is -12, but MBM5 says -36 Idle, like it was before so i know nothing is wrong with the cooling components :D, plus i can OC just as high as before which proves it. So i suggest u don't jump to the conclusion that u have a "leak" like what i thought.

gaddster
06-07-2004, 02:20 PM
Originally posted by a5h
this is why Nventiv is banbkrupt ...everyone send back their "faulty" MACH's as soon as something little is wrong...


maybe then they should have made MACH's that didn't develop 'little' faults. God knows I am so glad to have offloaded mine. What you have to consider is that not everyone who buys these systems is a refrig expert. After paying £500 for one then I didn't expect to have to keep making little fixes to it.

longshot
06-07-2004, 07:48 PM
Finally no more Asetek vs. Nventiv squables, guess all the nventiv lovers will have to switch to the Vapochill boat.

chilly1
06-07-2004, 08:10 PM
Originally posted by HKY
I have the same problem a few weeks ago. It turns out that there is a leak around the joints of the high pressure tube. I took the unit to a local air-con guy that I know and get it fixed and recharge with 134a. Now its running again, but about 2C higher than before.
Could be an over or undercharge or non-condensables in the system..

SAE
06-08-2004, 03:08 AM
Chilly, that's what I thought, too.

BTW, great avatar :)

Ragnarok
06-08-2004, 03:11 AM
a lot of those aircon guys just rush over ur job and dont bother pulling a decent vacuum and evac ur system :(

chilly1
06-08-2004, 05:17 AM
Originally posted by SAE
Chilly, that's what I thought, too.

BTW, great avatar :)

My Avatar is a picture of the front of my home looking towards the Northwest...at sunset....The reflection is my car..

SAE
06-08-2004, 05:24 AM
Originally posted by chilly1
My Avatar is a picture of the front of my home looking towards the Northwest...at sunset....The reflection is my car..

Impressive.... to catch this moment in the right moment :thumbsup: I love such pics... :D