View Full Version : No BS, watercooled temps 4 real!
charlie
05-16-2004, 04:07 PM
I'm paranoid about how my WC system is functioning. With Dtek Spir@l, Jr120, 125cfm 120mm Delta, 1/2" DD UV tubing, and a 1200 liter Quiet One, here's my temps as read by NF7-S v2:
room temp: 26C
idle temp at 1.5V - 33C
Load at 1.5v - 38C
idle temp at 1.9v - 42C
load temp at 1.9v - 49C
is this right or does it suck? And why would it suck? Does the NF7-S have reputation for reading HIGH?
All the time I see these quotes like, errrr... yeah I idle at 27C in a 25C room and load up at 29C oh yeah at 2.05V.
??
wtf?
c
sandman
05-16-2004, 04:15 PM
Looks about right to me. My tubing is slightly kinked, and full load for my A64 @ 1.7Vcore is about 47C.
With Maze3, Danner mag3, jr-120 and a 72cfm fan.
BTW, you're restricting your pump inlet a decent amount with that 90 degree fitting.
GAMER512
05-16-2004, 04:31 PM
Your temps do see a little high, my A64 on 1.7v never goes over 33c under full load. Your setup just not be powerfull enough. I only have 1 double heatercore and a 5 gallon res.
BlindViper
05-16-2004, 05:22 PM
what bios are you using in your nf7
charlie
05-16-2004, 06:23 PM
d22 tictac mod....
TheWeaseL
05-16-2004, 07:32 PM
Is the fan blowing or sucking air across the rad? Make sure it's pulling air across, not blowing through the rad. And if there are any 90 degree angles, get rid of them if you can, flow killers. I don't know anything about that pump, and I don't know what your exact tube routing is, and along with what fluids you are using, which could be variables that affect your temps.
charlie
05-16-2004, 07:36 PM
Originally posted by TheWeaseL
Is the fan blowing or sucking air across the rad? Make sure it's pulling air across, not blowing through the rad. And if there are any 90 degree angles, get rid of them if you can, flow killers. I don't know anything about that pump, and I don't know what your exact tube routing is, and along with what fluids you are using, which could be variables that affect your temps.
Blowing through....because i don't want a fan on the outside of case. But I stuck a second fan on the outside to test and it didn't change .1C!!
And yes, I do have a 90 degree elbow at my pump intake :)
It's just distilled water with a splash of auto antifreeze.
C
charlie
05-16-2004, 07:39 PM
routing
charlie
05-16-2004, 07:41 PM
oh and that t-line and fitting is GONE now....bled system in a bucket submersed.
For what you showed your high'ish temps are solely beacause of your rad using warm in-case air as intake air - bad idea!
If you want performance together with compact system you need to duct air into your rad from outside. Adding more fans won't haelp since intake air is warm...
just for testing put your rad/fan assy aout of your case and see temps dropping. The only situation is not going to work is when you already have almost ambient (~3C diff max) air tamp in your case
weedkiller420
05-17-2004, 03:43 PM
temps depend on how hot my room is.
p4 2.6c@3250 1.6vcore
37idle
45full
dangerden kit.
Also i tried fans blowing and sucking and got diffrence off 5c when sucking air through the rad into the case.
John Cena
05-17-2004, 03:51 PM
Morning:
Idle temp: 16 Celcius MBM(6 celcius in bios)
Load temp: 28 celcius MBM( 18 celcius bios)
Afternoon:
Idle temp : 24 celcius MBM ( 14 celcius in bios)
Load temp: 30 celcius MBM ( 20 celcius in bios)
Load temp was taken by running 2 folding prompts, playing a movie, zipping, and running a game all at once for 10 minutes
Idle temp was doing nothing ecept listen to music
saaya
05-17-2004, 04:23 PM
charlie, the blocks sux... a second rad might give you 1-2°C lower temps, but the best investment would be a rbx or lrww.
Craig
05-17-2004, 05:45 PM
Charlie,
You've a hard 90 in the WOREST possible place, at your pumps inlet. I'd suggest you get a small section of 1.25" copper pipe along with a unequal T 1.25" x 3/4" x 1.25" along with a 1.25" cap and a tapered reducer.
Use the reducer for your return line to connect to leading into the 1.25" "res" pipe. The 3/4" then connects to your pumps inlet. The 3/4 line will allow for low to no resistence on the pumps suction side. Will improve you pumps function and the loops flow.
You could also use up to 2" where I've noted 1.25" pipe which would give more volume to the res. For that matter you could go down to 1" and it'll still do a good job. Just use the largest (widest) pipe your pumps inlet can accept.
Or you can make something up along these lines from polycarb or acrylic plexi if you want a better bling bling look.
But however you do it, you need to be rid of that hard 90 at the pump inlet.
This along with the points already made regarding the use of warm case air & the spir@l CPU block, is what's up with your temps.
charlie
05-17-2004, 06:35 PM
so maybe eliminate the 90* and and get an RBX... ??
I know it's not the warm air/cold air thing....it was similar on the test bench with no case...Oddly enough, when I put my hand on the radiator it doesn't even feel warm, and the air coming out is not warm...it just seems like the WB just DOESN'T carry heat away...I thought it may have been my water pump making the heat, but I tried checking it when cold and turned off...and with in 5 minutes CPU would be idling @ 43C @ 1.9V. again, radiator cold...also I hate those springs, wish I could just tighten the hell out of the brass thumbscews...never sure about contact. What about water flow? Here's the pump, $25 :D I checked the pump running into a bucket with another 3 feet of hose attached and it still moved a pretty good amt. of water!
model 1200 of course
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9849&Ne=40000&R=23377&Nao=18&N=2004+22788
charlie
05-17-2004, 06:44 PM
you guys are thinking more like tHIS:
weedkiller420
05-17-2004, 07:13 PM
Not to get off topic or anything but whats a good cooling solution? Water+?
saaya
05-18-2004, 04:16 AM
Originally posted by charlie
so maybe eliminate the 90* and and get an RBX... ??
I know it's not the warm air/cold air thing....it was similar on the test bench with no case...Oddly enough, when I put my hand on the radiator it doesn't even feel warm, and the air coming out is not warm...it just seems like the WB just DOESN'T carry heat away...I thought it may have been my water pump making the heat, but I tried checking it when cold and turned off...and with in 5 minutes CPU would be idling @ 43C @ 1.9V. again, radiator cold...also I hate those springs, wish I could just tighten the hell out of the brass thumbscews...never sure about contact. What about water flow? Here's the pump, $25 :D I checked the pump running into a bucket with another 3 feet of hose attached and it still moved a pretty good amt. of water!
model 1200 of course
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/prod_display.cfm?pcatid=9849&Ne=40000&R=23377&Nao=18&N=2004+22788
that sounds def like a weak block
iboomalot
05-18-2004, 04:57 PM
Originally posted by weedkiller420
Not to get off topic or anything but whats a good cooling solution? Water+?
i just use windshield washer fluid so far so good
John Cena
05-18-2004, 05:52 PM
Distilled water and a bit of anti-coolant is good. I use some yellow stuff that smells like pee from Dtekcustoms
Never use soap because it can scum up the insides of your waterblock.
Weapon
05-18-2004, 06:08 PM
i have seen a couple of mods on that block that increase the performance some - mainly, take the block apart and use a drill to dimple the surface in the channel directly over the CPU core area. if you dimple it to where the base thickness is only about 1mm-1.25mm over the core, the temps usually improve quite a bit. just don't overdrill that sucker - a bit stop is a good idea.
get rid of the 90 deg elbow for sure.
TheWeaseL
05-19-2004, 12:42 AM
That 1337 mspaint drawing you got charile looks good to me. RBX or WW, both will do go for you.
Unoid
05-22-2004, 11:45 AM
my setup here:
http://unoid.net/watermod/
my single 120mm alum rad exhaust fan at lowest rpm: idle= 38C, Load =43C
Highest RPM: idle=32C, load 40C
charlie
05-22-2004, 12:03 PM
With my new prescott 2.8A, @ 1.47V, 3800mHz, idle 45C, load 56C
C
I wouldn't worry too much charlie.
My load temps are over 50c but I'm still stable at 3.8. No rad fans or anything.
2.8 M0 @ 3779, using 1.68 actual
boshi
05-23-2004, 02:43 PM
I run the d22 bios and air cooling, with a 30C room temp I get 44C CPU temp at load with 2v...
your watercooling is not doing too well...
vengance_01
05-24-2004, 05:35 AM
your not doing to bad. I am at 46C full load With a Moblie 2400@2.58GHZ, 2voltcore, and folding right now at 46C, case temp at 28C, idle is around 39-40C
Dtek WW
Unknow dual 120 heatercore
quiet 1200 pump who is not quiet:p:
slavik
05-24-2004, 06:36 AM
not to hijack the thread or anything (related question)
would it be ok to place 2 elbows betwwen the pump intake and the res with the res being above the pump?
with a tube straight down between the two elbows.
res...-| < elbow
pump-| <elbow
Firelord-OCHW
05-24-2004, 09:19 AM
Go to the blocks first then the rad :)
The rad sucks some flow and that will affect cooling :) I have found rad after blocks works better by 5-6c than before the blocks :)
charlie
05-24-2004, 10:53 AM
Originally posted by vengance_01
your not doing to bad. I am at 46C full load With a Moblie 2400@2.58GHZ, 2voltcore, and folding right now at 46C, case temp at 28C, idle is around 39-40C
Dtek WW
Unknow dual 120 heatercore
quiet 1200 pump who is not quiet:p:
does your quiet one 1200 pump have that "rattle"?? Even when it's bled? Mine does :(
C
vengance_01
05-24-2004, 01:06 PM
Originally posted by charlie
does your quiet one 1200 pump have that "rattle"?? Even when it's bled? Mine does :(
C Yup. Its just as bad submirdged. It sounds like sand is going through it. I bought this to get a massive O/C and have quiet, which I will once I get a new pump. I will keep it as a backup though
iboomalot
05-26-2004, 03:24 PM
MBM temps about 4-5 degrees C above the BIOS temps.
MBM temps -- normal surfing with a few programs running 38C NB 39-41C cpu
MBM temps -- loaded running programs + video game = peak of 43C NB 51C cpu
this is with a zalman RESERATOR 1 Silent CPU Water Cooling System + DD--Z chipset block and Zalman video card block.
thinking a larger pump would help temps under load any suggestions on a pump that would fit inside the tower??
extremecorvette
05-29-2004, 03:03 PM
Looks good to me
iboomalot
05-29-2004, 03:55 PM
I got a 1048 on order thinking that might help.
like my new avatar ?? nearly the perfect body with face to match thought I'd share.
video card has been shutting down my system kinda sucking.
what video card block would you recommend that won't interfer with my ram sinks???
extremecorvette
05-29-2004, 04:36 PM
The swiftech works great, but I like the guys the make the braket to let the RBX work on there card. I like the silverprop better than the swiftech.
charlie
05-29-2004, 05:29 PM
Originally posted by iboomalot
I got a 1048 on order thinking that might help.
like my new avatar ?? nearly the perfect body with face to match thought I'd share.
video card has been shutting down my system kinda sucking.
what video card block would you recommend that won't interfer with my ram sinks???
:slobber:
Oh yeah....
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