View Full Version : Making an evap?
afireinside
01-22-2004, 01:52 PM
Well I was thinking of making my own evap to cut some costs but considering I have no milling tool I'm pretty much screwed. I was thinking of getting 6 2x2" .25" thickness copper places and brazing them together into a box that cutting a hole in the top somehow to get a flare fitting for the suction line on there than another hole right next to it for the cap tube. Well unless you can tell me how to get it inside the suction line :p:
Would this be a decent evap? Is .25" to thick/thin? What size flare do I want? Would 2 plates with a 2-3" 2" OD copper pipe in the middle be better? Thats about all I could think of...
Russell_hq
01-22-2004, 02:50 PM
I think the best bet is to get a nice waterblock of copper heatsink, the ones with pins. Then slot a piece of 25mm pipe over the pins and get an endcap, braze it up and drill a hole in top for your flare connection and braze that in. I think that might be easier than trying to braze 6 blocks of copper together, that just spells disaster.
Something like this:
http://www.extremecooling.co.uk/s/product?product=601670
or this:
http://www.dabs.com/uk/productview?quicklinx=2WB9?refererid=t5
or this one:
http://www.dabs.com/uk/productview?quicklinx=2WB8
afireinside
01-22-2004, 03:19 PM
Any pics of that done?
Russell_hq
01-22-2004, 03:28 PM
nope, just an idea. :) i can draw you one if you want
migginz
01-22-2004, 03:44 PM
I got a Dragon orb 3 of ebay, clipped off the shroud and desoldered the ALuminium plate, hacksawed the fins to make them take up more of the block and then slipped a 42mm stop end (solder type) over the fins, with a hole for the pipe towards the top of it.
there is still room to resolder the aluminium plate (with a little modification) so I can use the socket clip but i think it be too hard to insulate.
should work good, its like the inside of a prommie head only bigger and round.
afireinside
01-22-2004, 08:20 PM
Well what about my tube and 2 plates Idea?
chilly1
01-22-2004, 09:33 PM
Jpg 1 tools to construct the evap
Sheet metal shears.. Right curve type
Seaming pliers
Small screwdriver
Materials
Socket 378 heatsink
10" 3/4 copper pipe
1.5" pipecap
3/8" male flare to flare adapter
15% silfos, silver brazing alloy
Oxy/Acetlene torchset
3/8 drill bit
1/8 drill bit
3/8 chuck drill
3'flexable refrigerant hose with 3/8" flare fittings
0.026 capillary tube 16'
http://www.blairwing.com/images/1a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/2a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/3a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/4a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/5a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/6a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/7a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/8a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/9a.jpg
http://www.blairwing.com/images/10a.jpg
Construction
First take the fan off the heatsink, cut straight down the center of the pipe use the seaming tongs to flatten the copper cut off all but 3/8 inch if pipe cap and drill 3/8" hole near edge. Jpg2
Set heat sink on flattened copper. Draw line around it. notch corners and bend up two sides, check to insure fit and shape,bend down other two sides and then trim all four sides to 1/16" above bottom edge of heatsink jpg3,jpg6, cut two pieces of copper to be used as shims, 1/4 inch wide by the width of block, then drill 3/8" hole near edge, and a 1/8" hole on oppisite corner Jpg 4, Jpg 4 shows you the parts you have made so far.
Use hack saw to cut interconnecting channels in block for refrigerant flow to the suction line from the cap tube inlet, remove material frim the corner where the captube goes Jpg 5.
Slide parts domn captube, bend end of cap to fit into place in block, thread through hole in cover,fit all parts together,cap tube will fit under notch in cover and then through hole, insert shims, and dress parts to fit tight.jpg 7, jpg 8
Weld parts together use care not to melt cap tube, fill all voids with braze.
Clean and polish jpg 9, thread captube through hose assy.
Hose can be gotten from auto ac hose shop for $40
Captube from Johnstone supply
Heatsink from computer supply company
Copper piping from Home depot
Silfoss from johnstone supply.
afireinside
01-23-2004, 08:49 AM
Maybe I'll just get a baker block...
chilly1
01-23-2004, 10:09 AM
Exactly a baker block is a lot easier than going through all that . I did this for someone who wanted a cheap way to build his own block.... It did work quite well (-68 unloaded) I never tested it under load.... added it to the dead pile of 20 other evaps....
vBulletin® v3.7.6, Copyright ©2000-2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.