Prometeia problems plz help [Archive]

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 03:21 PM

The evap temp actually gets lower. When the evap reaches -43C the prometeia shutsdown. It says that the boot temp for the cpu is -33c or whatever but when it cools down to that temp, I get no video signail. ..Nothing starts up

Ok guys everything is working fine now. I dont even know what the hell i did.

Do you guys know when you have to connect the blue/white wire(power wire) from the prommy mach2 to the blue/whire (power wire) of the enlight/lianli chasis...Is the white supposed to match the white and the blue is supposed to match the blue? Or not?

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 03:38 PM

Anyways everything is working fine. No overclocking tonight. I have to clean up my rom its a HUGE mess boxes and sealstring is all over the place lol

Hey prommy users have you ever touched the back of evap (where hose is) while prommy was on? When it touched it was VERY hot although the evap temp is -45c and the mb temp is -3C via bios

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 04:03 PM

Back to square one....

Ok guys same problem again. And it had nothing to do with the blue/white wires either...

The system was working fine and I shut it down because the evap was hot. Then I called nventiv and the call was transfered to some representive's house and its 12pm there. So he tells me that the evap is supposed to be hot because of the heaters in side of it. He couldnt really help me w/ the problem because it was night there.

Anyone have any idea what is causing this.

Also where does the yellow wire comming from the prom connect to and where does the black wire from prom connect to (im guessing to the internal usb ports0

When the system was working (normally where it says prometeia) it said NO SHUTDOWN and under it had the evap temp

now when its not working it says prometeia and evap temp and after it gets to -45 it says shutdown and then begin the count down so i can restart the unit.

i have no idea what can cause this. w/o the prom everythign works fine. Also what is the proper way to power the system on. First power on the atx button and than the case button or just hit the case button (the system powers on regardless of the atx button's position).

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 04:15 PM

heres how i mounted

http://mysite.verizon.net/erack/pict0768.jpeg

Holst

01-20-2004, 04:30 PM

Its a little hard to tell from the pic if your mount is good or not.

Can you explain in more detail exactly what happens when you power on the system?

I assume this is the order.

Press power button on case.. PC powers up, but is held in reset..
Evap cools down to -33. PC fails to boot.
Continues to cool down to -43 and then powers off.

Seem to me like you have a problem holding reset.... or you have a bad mount and thats why it wont post..

What motherboard is it?

The white and blue wires should be marked power and reset... they need to plug into your power on and reset plugs on your case, then into the motherboard.. on the right pins..

If you dont have them right then you may have problems..

Good luck.

Gary Lloyd

01-20-2004, 04:31 PM

It is mounted upside down. Turn it 180 degrees.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 04:40 PM

mikcey i am having a little trouble understanding

first of all where does the yellow wire from the mach2 go. my yellow wire is not connected to anything

also the enlight case has a white/blue wire and so does the prommy. those 2 wires are supposed to be connected togethor. correct?

is any wire from the prommy or enlight case supposed toconnect to the power header on the mb? if so which wire?

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 04:42 PM

gary it said that the pellet on the evap should be on top. and my pellet is on top.

holst mb is the asus sk8v...the blue&white wire from the prommy should connect to blue&white wire from enlight. and nothin else correct?

does any wire connect to the power header on the mb? yellow wire?

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-20-2004, 04:52 PM

Okay guys I checked one thing. I never had the yellow/yellow wire connected to the "ATX Power Switch" connector but now I connected it and i still get the same crap. :( :( :(

Gary Lloyd

01-20-2004, 05:20 PM

gary it said that the pellet on the evap should be on top. and my pellet is on top.

Does a glass hold more liquid with its opening on the top, or on the bottom?

The hose must be on the top. It is upside down.

JCviggen

01-21-2004, 02:54 AM

Gary,

you are correct in what you say, however, in the case of the SK8V, the socket is turned upwards, not sideways. Hence the only correct way is how he mounted it, with the hose sideways. The hose is still in the upper side of the evap. So there are 2 correct ways to mount it. One with the hose on the left upper side of the evap, and one turned 90deg to the right so the evap is horizontal with the hose entering at the top.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D, your problem seems to be that you are not following the manual correctly when it comes to wiring - no offence.

Connect the yellow wire to the on/off switch on the mainboard.
Connect the white/blue wire from the mach 2 to the on/off switch wire from the case.
...
profit!

also, this may be a bad camera perspective, but it looks on the pic like your coolinghead is mounted strangely sideways? I have used the exact same combo - SK8V + Mach II and it should all fit like a glove.

Gary Lloyd

01-21-2004, 03:05 AM

you are correct in what you say, however, in the case of the SK8V, the socket is turned upwards, not sideways. Hence the only correct way is how he mounted it, with the hose sideways. The hose is still in the upper side of the evap. So there are 2 correct ways to mount it. One with the hose on the left upper side of the evap, and one turned 90deg to the right so the evap is horizontal with the hose entering at the top.

I looked at the pic again. It looks to me like the hose is on the lower left, not the upper left. Am I missing something?

JCviggen

01-21-2004, 03:08 AM

Its on the upper left my friend, you can tell its right by the proximity of the upper screw to the thermal bus that the orientation is correct :) The one on the lower side is much further away from the bus.

Gary Lloyd

01-21-2004, 03:20 AM

Must be an optical illusion or something, but no matter how many times I look at that picture, it still looks like the hose is lower left.

Or maybe I'm just losing it in my old age... LOL

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-21-2004, 10:56 AM

JC at first I admit I was rushing and I forgot to connect the yellow wire to the mb header named "ATX POWER SWITCH". However I noticed my error and I had the same problem.

Mickey I had followed your first remedy. (Unhooking the yellow wire from mb and clearing cmos and shorting pins with screw driver and and hooking yellow wire back in windows. I took all of the steps and than I shutdown the computer. I waited the 2mins and then I pressed the atx button on back of the psu. Next I pressed the atx button on front of the case. The prommy cooled down to -33C and my system powered on. I reinstalled WinXP and everythign was working fine. Finally I turned off my computer. The mach2 was idling. 12hours later I tried to power on my system. First I turned on the switch on back of the psu (i did not press the front atx switch yet). Then the system immediatly powered on (which is not supposed to happened) and then it shut off right away. The mach2 went into restard delay.l Next I pressed the atx power switch on the enlight case (leaving the atx switch on the back on). The mach2 went all the way down to -43C and shut down. My system never powered on. And here I am in school writing to you guys. Worried as hell.

Any idea what should I do. I connected the yellow wire to the header labled "ATX Power Switch" on the bottom of the control panel. The header is 2 pins which are the 4th and 5th pins from the right side of the control panel.

Also how am I supposed to start the system.

2ways:

1st way: just press the atx button on the front of the enlight case (leaving atx switch on psu off) and prommy powers on.
2nd way: first turn atx power switch on psu on and then hit atx switch on enlight case.

Also I had a slight problem with mounting the cpu kit but it had nothing to do with this though. The instructions said that the flatside of the top bracket should point to the edge of the mb and the side with the little bump on it should point to the inside of the mb. However the top bracket (flat side) would rest on top of a ic. So I flipped the bracket theother way (now the side with little bump is pointing to edge of the mb). This way the ic is not in the way.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-21-2004, 02:49 PM

also just to make sure according to this pic the yellow/yellow wire goes on the bottom 4th &5th pins from the right. correct? my manual is a bit messed up. i know i got them in the right place but i am just making sure.

http://mysite.verizon.net/erack/s.jpeg

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-21-2004, 02:53 PM

mickey one more thing for this mb did you have to d/l GART drivers from via to use the 9800xt

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-21-2004, 03:36 PM

Mickey this prommy is wack and i do mean wack. I did all you told me and it still didnt work. Then I tried something. After the evap cooed below -33c but before -40c i took the yellow cord out of the header and right away the system posted. Weird or what?

Any ideas. If you have any please tell me. Meanwhile I am going to try to get kit-tronics to send me another prom and take this one back.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-21-2004, 05:16 PM

Ok now I tried to start the system again. The evap cooled down to -33C but no post.

So I took the yellow/yellow wire out from the header and then plugged it back in. System booted.

What the hell is causing this?

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-21-2004, 05:54 PM

Hey guys just booted up without the mach2 and everything seems to run faster w/o it lol...

Hey does anyone know how i can use dual psus w/ mach2. (starting the unit by itself and then starting the system manually).

Marci

01-22-2004, 10:17 AM

Righty...

1 - Remove mobo etc from your case, and assemble it on a desktop with a heatsink and test it fires up on air. Get everything working on air first.

2 - Replace mobo etc back in case. Yellow wire from prommi goes to the two pins labelled PWR/Grnd in the pic you posted above. Blue/White goes to front panel. Red Wire with a plastic 2 pin header is for the REAR pin heater to plug into.

As board is preset up and tested ok on air, there is no reason why it won't fire up with the prommi unless:

A - there is a fault on the prommi controller
B - plain old bad installation of the prommi head resulting in condensation resulting in spurious performance from your motherboard.

You don't need separate PSUs. There is no reason to need separate PSUs.

Last tip - DON'T OVERCOMPLICATE THINGS!

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-22-2004, 10:47 AM

Marci. The mobo works fine without the mach2. That I have tested.

The prommy even works with the mach2 (if I jump the power header with a screw driver). I am FAR from an expert or an intermediate user because this is my first prom. I am guessing it is a fault with the chip controller because the mb works fine without it and the mb works with the mach2 (iff I jump the 2 pins on the header)

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-22-2004, 03:12 PM

Ok guys things are looking good so far. I am hoping this will last. Today I have recieved an email from nventiv adressing my problem. Heres what they said.

"First of all we suggest you check the yellow wire is placed correctly.
Next step would be to flash the firmware of the chip-controller. The
firmware can be found here: http://www.nventiv.com/index.php?pageid=75

1. Save the file to the harddisk.
2. Unzip the the file using a standard decompression tool.
3. Start the bootload.exe program located at: "\Program
files\Chip-con\Prometeia\bootload.exe"
4. Point to the decompressed STE file and start the firmware upload
procedure.

Remember that you have to install the Mach II software on the pc to be
able to use the firmware update function (Manual page 20-26).

Report back and tell us how it went."

Ok guys I want to tell you everything I did just because its intresting to talk about it.

I had a bit of trouble installing the prometeia software on winxp due to usb porblems. I did not realize that I had to install usb drivers for the asus sk8v. I went into device manager and I noticed that there was a yellow checkmark next to Via usb 2.0 enchanced host controller. This is why my mach2 program would fail to open. After I installed the software from the cd the controller was detected. Next I installed the prommy software on the pc and it loaded perfectly. After I downloaded firmware 700 from nventiv site and flashed it. Flashed successfull. After I shutdown my computer, waited for restart delay. Turned on atx switch on psu and hit power button on enlight case. -33C BAM my computer bursts into winxp and everything is fine. So far I am very happy. I will continue to use winxp and I will shutdown within an hour or two. Then I will wait for a few hours and power the system back on and see if these changes are permanent or if my problems will come back again. Sorry no overclocking for now. Have to see if everything will work out.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-22-2004, 03:52 PM

for now enjoy some stock screenies

http://mysite.verizon.net/erack/stockscreen.jpeg

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-22-2004, 04:12 PM

ok problems re appear.

i shutdown comp and waited a while and then i turned it back on. same problems as always. -33c and no boot.

so i took out the yellow/yellow and then plugged it right back in and i have a boot. however this is not a fix.

Marci

01-22-2004, 04:17 PM

If it isn't caused by condensation then it sounds like possibly a faulty relay on the controller... contact nVentiv.

Other than that I'm clueless.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-22-2004, 05:10 PM

Does the sk8v have a history of any issues with the prommy? Maybe sk8n will be a better choice since nventiv uses it for its mach2 barebones

JCviggen

01-23-2004, 12:15 AM

I have heard of this problem before with the SK8V - however i never experienced it on any of the boards here.

Did you flash the firmware already? You didnt mention if you did that yet...i know it solved the problems completely on one SK8V system at least.

Marci

01-23-2004, 03:22 AM

Yep... he's done that. Worked fine for a while, shut down then wouldn't come back on again. Hence I'm thinking condensation:

On fer a while and all ok - block of ice grows
Switch off - defrost, liquid everywhere
Switch on - refreezes / evaporates during chill-down but not enough by -33
Hits -35ish and by this time it's vap'd or woteva and now it switches on fine.

Only thing I could think of... last thing I asked him to try was to set controller to boot at -40 instead of -33 and see if it behaved any differently...

JCviggen

01-23-2004, 03:37 AM

I believe this is an SK8V related anomaly which can occur but there isnt any explanation for it yet...it doesnt really make much sense but its happening nonetheless. I dont think he has any condensation

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-23-2004, 03:39 PM

Well who knows. Marci I have to try your suggestion...But just curious. If it was condensation -- wouldnt i get any problems once I boot into windows. I mean the mb is working fine all the time.

I talked to my reseller....kit-tronics.com they told me that 5 other end users had experienced the same problem as I did. They said that the SK8V is a new motherboard and this is new technology. They said that the mach2 is doing its job and it is the board that is having the issues with the prommy controller -- just like the p4c boards with the vapos. Well after talking to kit-tronics I also heard that one user solved this problem permanently by upgrading the bios to some beta version which he found on the taiwan part os asus site. they said that this bios is not that widespread.... hrm..i am using the stock bios atm...version 1001.013..have to try a few beta bios and boot temp @ -40c. if problem keeps up i will rma the cpu, mb, ram and get a 3400+ on a mb that is guaranteed to work w/ mach2 or try an early prescott if i can wait.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-23-2004, 05:24 PM

Just talked to kit-tronics again. They said their going to look for the asus sk8v beta bios and email it to me asap. This bios is not found in the d/l section on the asus site (usa page). They told me that this bios fixed the boot problems for some of their customers.

Hey Marci i tried booting up at -40C and it booted up fine. Not sure for how long this will keep up. I will try it again soon....Could condensation be the problem? ALso I want to point out that my a64 top bracket was abnormal. The instruction manual said that the flat side (one w/o the bump) should point towards edge of mb but if I mount it this way a ic on the mb would get in the way and the top/bottom brackets wouldnt allign. So i flipped the bracket over and the bump was pointing to edge of mb (incorrect way) but nventiv said if its the only way it mounts then its fine. However after mounting my head I found a small part undcovered by the head (about 1cm) and air could easily get in there. So what I did was put a bunch of seal string in that gap and its covered up fine...i doubt this could be a prob because if i has condensation then i would get random lockups in windows, ect.

what do you guys think?

mdzcpa

01-23-2004, 06:14 PM

You definitely need to remount the head if you have a gap between the head and the mounting base. Something is not right at all. I wouldn't trust a wad of seal string to prevent condensation. Seal string is for sealing tiny gaps only.

By the pic you have, that mount seems aweful suspect.

You need to figure out how to get that plastic mounting base on correctly. There is a "clear zone" around the CPU area that should not have any ICs to interfere with. However, if you do need to turn the bracket around, you MUST remove the inner metal bracket and flip it around to be in the same position as before.

I still have no idea how the head is crooked. Did you break a post on the mounting plate?

EDIT spelling...yikes:)

Gary Lloyd

01-23-2004, 06:29 PM

The mount only looks wrong to people from the Detroit area. Must be something in the water... LOL

mdzcpa

01-23-2004, 06:46 PM

Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
The mount only looks wrong to people from the Detroit area. Must be something in the water... LOL

LOL...must be! Either that or all of the auto plant emmisions:D

All joking aside though the head should not be crooked.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-23-2004, 07:20 PM

Errr bangs head on the table...

Well kit tronics was not much help either. They sent bios 1002.019 or whatever. This is the one I am using. Boot at -40C didnt help either. Well the problem is the mb for sure. No condensation yet or else windows would get quirky.

For a min i was feeling l33t to be using the 2nd fastest cpu in the world. Oh well :(

From the way things look I am going to rma this...loose 15% restocking fee ($170) and get a Pentium 4 3.2EE, A64 3400+, or a Prescott if they come out soon. Btw when is the prescott going to be released? mdzcpa - how about a trade bro my fx51 sys for your 3.2ee sys :D LoL

hey guys btw winxp always gives me an error when i try to install my 9800xt drivers...that gehy...

Can anyone give me some advice. Which is the best a64 sckt 754 mb to get that will work 100% in the prommy. Let me know. mdzcpa just for the record i was originally considering buying an ee but i only had 30min to make the choice and i picked the fx51. LoL. guess rushing cost me.

D/SCoNn3Ct3D

01-23-2004, 07:31 PM

Just for the record I am angry, pissed off, frustrated, ect... not that anyone cares LoL

tip for nventiv add this on your front page "WE DO NOT SUPPORT THE ASUS SK8V"

I know its not their fault at all. Nventiv has really out done themselves and even surpassed asetek, who have been in the business for many more years.

hope i can get the rma done quickly...well going to wait a little bit ... maybe someone can help me from nventiv/kit-tronics/here

mdzcpa

01-23-2004, 08:13 PM

Originally posted by D/SCoNn3Ct3D
From the way things look I am going to rma this...loose 15% restocking fee ($170) and get a Pentium 4 3.2EE, A64 3400+, or a Prescott if they come out soon. Btw when is the prescott going to be released? mdzcpa - how about a trade bro my fx51 sys for your 3.2ee sys :D LoL

Ouch on the restocking fee. You might be better off just selling it on line....just a thought.

As far as a trade....mmmm...nope:) Sorry. I avoided the 940 pin FX for a few reasons...compatability, mobo maturity, mobo features, etc. I'm gonna jump when it's 939 pin time though:)

mdzcpa just for the record i was originally considering buying an ee but i only had 30min to make the choice and i picked the fx51. LoL. guess rushing cost me.

Perhaps all hope is not lost. There are many bright folks here that still might be able help you. But, I understand your frustration...it's a lot of money to spend without positive results. What's funny is that I am the one usually going with the bleeding edge stuff which gives me headaches at times. But I ended up going EE for plug n play compability, along with the maturity of the Intel chipset mobos....I was feeling lazy I guess:)

Hang in there. All hope is not lost.

BTW, did you figure out why the head mounted is crooked? With the two mounting screws in the mounting plate posts, the block should be totally straight:confused: