Quick Q on Mach I

[G H Z]

Well I have joined the ranks and bought my first Mach I:D I must say I was a little excited opening the box up.

Now this unit is slightly used and was still in the shipping box from nVentiv after the recall. In looking at the evap head it looks like it could use some lapping.......so

-Is it ok to lap the evap head on a MachI? It is a little discolored indicating some slight corrosion. And if it is ok, what is the best method to do that with the system pressurized/assembled?


Or is this even a necessary step with Prometia cooling?

[Slickthellama]

yeah, It's fine to lap it. Dunno why you would want to tho. Just get some ceramique. It'll close the gaps. You can also get tarnish remover from major hardware stores if you feel the need to tho.

[gokickrocks]

dont forget to let it settle before using it

[G H Z]

Settled 2 days

So is this normal temp for a naked Mach I? Reading -46°

[chilly1]

Originally posted by G H Z
Well I have joined the ranks and bought my first Mach I:D I must say I was a little excited opening the box up.

Now this unit is slightly used and was still in the shipping box from nVentiv after the recall. In looking at the evap head it looks like it could use some lapping.......so

-Is it ok to lap the evap head on a MachI? It is a little discolored indicating some slight corrosion. And if it is ok, what is the best method to do that with the system pressurized/assembled?


Or is this even a necessary step with Prometia cooling?
Lap away just band sawed one and there is a good 0.2 inch there to play with...

[G H Z]

I used to hack up cars...but I think I'll keep the new prometia away from the cutters and torches for now.

Thanks Chilly1:D

[chilly1]

I modded a prommie for a member here and installed a new captube and baker gpu block..., cut the prommie block up to get the temp probe off it. didn't work the epoxy held too good.. the block face does have enough material to lap, but if you do take too much off there is the issue with contact with the cpu, which on the prommie is an issue even without any thinning of the block.

[G H Z]

Should I use the rear cover? I did not have any "Fitting foam gasket" like they mention here. Can I simply use closed cell and dialectric grease to condensation proof the rear of the MB and toss the heater all together?

[chilly1]

Closed cell neoprene that is soft would work best. do seal it good I saw some pics that showed a green board under the insulation...

[G H Z]

"Green" as in corroded?

Hmm,

Maybe I can cut a piece of foam to duplicate the "fitting foam gasket".

Think that would work ok chilly1?

Btw, thanks for helping me. I am tryin to get her up and running right now.

[chilly1]

Insulate then when you are done insulate again. just make sure that the seal is air tight or as tight as you can get it. di electric grease is ok but colsed cell neoprene is best.
\
Yes green as in copperoxide, with the stock prommie kit... board still running though...

[JCviggen]

If you lap it you might have to alter your CPU kit to get good contact. keep that in mind :)

[G H Z]

I got good contact, but no boot either?

Feeling the cooling head hose I felt what I thought was a twist in the line. Is it copper????

I was panicked and thought that due to the socket orientation of the NF7 and the required 90° evap rotation that I had screwed it really good. I was planning the R507 mod and cursing when after an hour or so I started to feel the hose up better.

Well it seems that that is a smaller tube spiral wrapped along the main line. Is that the cap tube or something?

I feel better after realizing this.....but I need to figure out the boot problem.

So.....

Is it possible to overtighten the prommy head to the CPU? I tightened it all the way down with 4 washers on the spring screw.