Opinions on TEC waterblocks?

[zippyc]

Ok, I'm curious if anyone has compared the Dangerden Maze 4 (which will support a 50x50 MM TEC) to the AquaJoe Gold block, specifically for cooling the CPU with a tec and coldplate.

http://www.aquajoe.com/AquaGold.htm

It looks ot me that the Gold block has better design for cooling a Peltier, although it seems as if they only support up to 40x40 MM pelt???

And I heard that the DD Maze 4 TEC/Coldplate cools better than the Swiftec MCW462-UHT with the same size pelt?

Anyone have experience with these?

And what do you belive is the best GPU/peltier block for a Radeon 9800?

Thanks guys....I'm pretty sure I don't want to use my Whitewater to cool my pelts! :p:

[]JR[]

Well the aquajoe thing looks like it was designed by the same people that make the GI Joe toys ;)

The difference between the maze and swifty will be minimal. But the swifty comes with all the condensation protection and tec included making it, imo, a better buy.

]JR[

[zippyc]

Do you have personal experience with both the swifty and the Maze four to base your opinion on?

I agree the condensation proofing helps make it a better buy, but I've heard/seen people make improvements to that, and I'm going to have to custom insulate as I will be seeing much colder results than swiftech design originally planned for....

I agree the Aquajoe is not he sexiest block in the world (and their website definately needs work), neverless they seem to have solid product from the reviews I've seen, and it looks like it's design would be superrior for TEC cooling vs the Maze 4.

Anybody else have some input? Agree/disagree with JR? Anyone used an Aquajoe block?

[]JR[]

Well ive got experience of the swifty, an atlantis tec block, a maze 2-2 and limited maze 3 experience.

The atlantis was the best by far but no condensation proofing, maze2-2 running dual 172's was pretty good.

But the condensation proofing of the swifty makes it the best buy.

How cold is your water going to be? If its anything less than -15c you will do better without the tec at all, and get a ww or another solid wb.

]JR[

[Jabo]

Originally posted by ]JR[

How cold is your water going to be? If its anything less than -15c you will do better without the tec at all, and get a ww or another solid wb.

]JR[

Tend to second that unless you run 226watt tec @7volts... It's a pity Kryo do not have 226watt modules to run sims on...

[zippyc]

Initially I'll have water at ambient. Then at around 0-5C when I add my pelt sandwich loop with these babies (see pic).

And later down the road it will be -15 to -40c hitting the hot side of the pelts with the addition of a AC chiller to the hot loop side of the pelt sandwich.

[\/icious]

well when you go ac chiller you will be better off without the pelts cooling the water. As far a chilling water for a pelt cooled cpu, ive heard that the results are no better than without the tec but ive seen no proof of this so i say go for it

[zippyc]

Well my experience has been that the colder the water is that you use to cool the hot side of a pelt, the colder the cold side of the pelt gets....in an almost linear relationship. Colder =better. However if you get below -30c you quickly hit the point of diminishing returns.

As for the pelt sadwich, this is something that is not done very often becasue of how terribly inefficient peltiers are.

But, with the right switching power supplies and by using lower voltages (7v) this can be managed a bit more.

I am essientially planning stacking the cooling in stages, with and intended 366W (226 and 130W pelts) on the CPU and GPU blocks (running at lower voltages than 14v), in turn cooled by another 1000W of pelts in the sadwich, in turn cooled by the AC.

It is simply another way to "stack" pelts.

No doubt the most efficient would be an AC cooler straight to the GPU and CPU pelts, but thats not quite extreme enough for me! lol. ;)

[]JR[]

TECs are uber efficent if run properly ;)

Jabo- you can simulate the 220w fairly closely by using 3 of the frost tecs iirc lemme just check...

edit: no its 3 of the TB-119-1.4-1.15CH 's in the special tem's menu...

]JR[

[Jabo]

Cheers mate, off playing with this great proggie :)

zippyc -> using the same proggie as mentioned above I discovered that the best is to keep hot side at no lower than -30. Beyond that point as you rightly remarked there's too less drop of cold side's temp for hot side drop to justify going any lower. With 24v 176watt module at -110C 'hot' side you are only getting -115C 'cold' side - any lower and 'cold; side is going to have higher temp than 'hot' side :).

Man power consumption of your setup is going to make all neighbours' lights go dimm and next day after you switch it on feds are going to be storming your house suspecting you of some sinister bad dids :) LOL

[zippyc]

I know, my electrical meter is going to do a simulation of a B-52 on a bombing run....

But I have a secret weapon....temperature controlled pulse modulator (not from Martin the Martian in Bugs-Bunny but from here: variablepc.com)

I also believe that I'll be able to get good results running 7 to 10V over more pelts than using fewer TEC's at full voltages.

We'll see!:D

Yeah, the feds might think I'm powering grow lights...lol.

[]JR[]

Check my solid state waterchiller thread, its got an efficency of > 1 ;)

]JR[

[Stang_Man]

Originally posted by zippyc
But I have a secret weapon....temperature controlled pulse modulator (not from Martin the Martian in Bugs-Bunny but from here: variablepc.com)

hahaha:p: