GTX285 various mods.. which may work for GTX260/280/295 also

[NapalmV5]

*** please mod at your own risk ***

before any further my cooling to vmodding recommendations
- stock cooling: step 1 + ocp mod
- better air/water/phase cooling: steps 1-3 + ocp mod
- multi phase/ln2/helium cooling: crotales vgpu/ocp + napalms steps 1-3

the following pics and mods @ evga ssc 285
http://i38.tinypic.com/2czexck.jpg

http://i35.tinypic.com/1zml668.jpg

10v 1500uf rubycon blackgate nx cap @ vacant C561-4
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/6677/capmodvh5.jpg


crotale vgpu/ocp mods: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=220607

before attempting any vmod please measure your current voltage/s

measure points
- red:vgpu
- green:vmem
- courtesy:CryptiK
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww206/CryptiKone/vgpuvmemmeasurepoints.jpg


step #1
- for better understanding please check dengyongs post #80 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3639820&postcount=80) cryptiks post #112 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3648634&postcount=112) and #118 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3648838&postcount=118)
- simple way to increase vgpu from 1.15v reference
- mod increments vgpu ~1.2-1.3
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/998/49555888ru5.jpg

step #2
- for those of you that dont want to do step 1
- bridge 2 vacant from factory
http://i45.tinypic.com/nwwk03.png

- for those of you that dont want to do step 1
- 1/2/3/11 bridged from factory
http://i50.tinypic.com/2jg17cm.png

- for those of you that still want to do step 1
- for those of you not gaining much @ step 1
- for those of you that have already done step 1 and want to take it a bit further
- 1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged
http://i46.tinypic.com/24erssz.png


step #3
- one more vgpu mod :)
- mod increments vgpu ~1.35-1.4+
http://i45.tinypic.com/ml349t.jpg


http://i48.tinypic.com/651ooy.jpg


thanks goes to
- Cryptik for all the help/confirmations
- crotale for his vgpu/ocp mods
- dengyong, andressergio and everyone else contributing @ thread

:toast:

[Stelios]

Interesting ... Thanks for sharing !!! :)

[bito]

I wonder if having an eight pin power cable in place of the 2nd six pin would help any ?

[dengyong]

Thank you for sharing. :up:

[Orangeblast]

Outstanding, thank you for this.

Where did you get your SSC from? Newegg...Mwave...Tiger??

[dengyong]

Where did you get your SSC from? Newegg...Mwave...Tiger??

Would that make a difference ?

[NapalmV5]

i got my ssc from newegg..

which gtx285 brands @ 4908 pcb ?

[Orangeblast]

Would that make a difference ?

It might...never know.

[Orangeblast]

i got my ssc from newegg..

which gtx285 brands @ 4908 pcb ?

Not sure, that might be mfg. specific. XFX and BFG have different PCB numbers? Can anyone check? It also might just be a batch number to a set of PCBs...anything is possible.

[NapalmV5]

evga ssc @ 1.20v
my ssc @ 1.23v
vmod @ 1.26v

no oc gain

vgpu mod does not work on the ssc until ovp is removed/increased

so if anyone could/would share that would be greatly appreciated

[TheKarmakazi]

evga ssc @ 1.20v
my ssc @ 1.23v
vmod @ 1.26v

no oc gain

vgpu mod does not work on the ssc until ovp is removed/increased

so if anyone could/would share that would be greatly appreciated

I think everyone is looking for OVP for these 285/295 cards... Tough to find though. From what I gather the best way to increase Mhz is better cooling. with a 295 @ 1.26-1.3v (OVP/OCP kicks in around 1.3) on stock cooler you can get about 750-775 core. With watercooling people have been getting 800-830. I imagine once we can get our hands on some Tek5.0 slims and LN2 these babies we will see big gains in the core clocks

[NapalmV5]

yeh 1.3v ovp :down:


heres the 285 vcore mod by Dural @ luxx forums:

http://www.forumdeluxx.de/forum/showpost.php?p=11158792&postcount=1340


22k fixed resistor gets 1.26v on my ssc

[NapalmV5]

deleted

[SAE]

Don't ya cool these memory and pwn parts originally touched by the stock HS? :eek:

What did the last mod gain you in clocks?

[Slovnaft]

wow, i'd be scared to kill my board with that much capacitance.
jesus.

[Orangeblast]

this is fantastic. I can't wait to try this out on my 2 SSCs

[phinix_mike]

wow... nice...

[persivore]

I think you would be much better using low value (~100nf) distributed capacitance in high load areas to catch spikes and high frequency noise than addling large ammounts of bulk capacitance to the outputs of the regulators, especially with the long lead lengths which it looks like you're using. Using long lead lengths will increase ESL and ESR of the capacitors and will likely negitively effect the response of the voltage regulators.

[NapalmV5]

yeh i agree persivore.. this was just the first recap.. more recapping to come

the capping on the back of the card ^ at first i used 4 x 6.3V 470uf blackgates

but the 4 x 10V 1500uf blackgates/results @ 1st ^ post is what made me post the mod up

im looking into tantalum/film caps aswell

there are more components in the way of this recap which are deemed to be replaced

for an sli/trisli setup id recommend 4 x high quality 10V 330uf tantalum caps @ C561-4.. if you got the space for electrolytic caps go ahead

at the moment i dont recommend the recapping of the 8x100uf.. i need to recap some more.. when i do find the better the caps/capacitance ill let you guys know.. still experimental

the memory runs fine @ 1500 naked cooled just by the airflow

having said all that im playing ETQW @ 800/1750/1500

20mhz core +
50mhz shader +

the hr03 cooler itself @ idle is only about 1 C better than the stock cooler.. @ load probably 2-3 C

[largon]

^nVIDIA skimping on memory vDD and vDDQ chokes. No surprise.
tsk-tsk...

But good to see they put some sense in the layout of GTX285's vGPU VRM area after the mess on GTX260/280s.

[CryptiK]

Nice work Napalm, thanks for sharing. Those 4 x 6V-10V 1500uF blackgate caps have a huge can size for 1500uf. I suppose that's one of the benefits of using high quality audio caps. The lead length is a worry though, if you can reduce that perhaps the results will be even better. I have some Sanyo WG's and Rubycon MBZ's that may be suitable for this mod.

It's also somewhat surprising that the HR-03 is only marginally better than the stock cooler.

[NapalmV5]

sure as persivore stated shorter leads would benefit even more.. but space on the card is a beatch.. not only that but the ram on the mobo is in the way aswell

yeh its the nx 10v 1500uf bgs.. sounds as good as it performs on the 285

[ChinStrap]

how much gain ? ill find out later today

waiting like a little kid @ xmas. :P

[NapalmV5]

lol ok ill get to it in a moment..

i was trying to get true120 copper on.. it fits! :D

though ill go back to hr03 after this test run

[SAE]

Dayum... I can hear that card moan because of the weight on its shoulders (and maybe because of pimped guts that got no chance to "heal" yet :D). :lol:

[LexDiamonds]

Interesting mod, but video cards are not 12v car amplifiers... it would seem the initial load on the FETs from charging the caps would eventually kill the card. It is one thing to reduce ripple, but another to overload the card with capacitance....

[NapalmV5]

well last night after true120 copper install (stupid idea) :shakes: everything went to hell

at first the card didnt boot.. after adjusting the cooler i got it to boot.. the weight of the cooler pulled on the backplate after i removed it i noticed one of the small ceramic cap on the back of the gpu might have been touching the metal plate.. or at least it looked like it im not certain.. most im concern about.. as for the caps ive recapped several times to no available.. the card is in bad shape.. everything gained was lost even default clocks stability is gone lol kaos!

hope the ceramic cap @ the back of the gpu is fine.. recapping to tantalum caps is what i wouldve done in the end anyways.. the next mod was gonna be the inductors but im gonna leave it that for now

let you guys know in a couple of days how the recapping to tantalum caps goes

btw.. have been playing around with a zotac amp 285.. vcore modded @ same voltage as ssc.. its doing exactly the same: 750/1700/1490 only 10mhz less on memory just a slight v increase to match ssc's voltage/clocks is all it needs

[dengyong]

well last night after true120 copper install (stupid idea) :shakes: everything went to hell

at first the card didnt boot.. after adjusting the cooler i got it to boot.. the weight of the cooler pulled on the backplate after i removed it i noticed one of the small ceramic cap on the back of the gpu might have been touching the metal plate.. or at least it looked like it im not certain.. most im concern about.. as for the caps ive recapped several times to no available.. the card is in bad shape.. everything gained was lost even default clocks stability is gone lol kaos!

hope the ceramic cap @ the back of the gpu is fine.. recapping to tantalum caps is what i wouldve done in the end anyways.. the next mod was gonna be the inductors but im gonna leave it that for now

let you guys know in a couple of days how the recapping to tantalum caps goes

btw.. have been playing around with a zotac amp 285.. vcore modded @ same voltage as ssc.. its doing exactly the same: 750/1700/1490 only 10mhz less on memory just a slight v increase to match ssc's voltage/clocks is all it needs

Must be luck of the draw cause my vanilla zotac does over 1500mem stable with no mods. (yet)

[NapalmV5]

^ nice.. what core/shader @ ?

yeh im not surprised.. its luck of the draw since all 285s use the same memory

[dengyong]

^ nice.. what core/shader @ ?

yeh im not surprised.. its luck of the draw since all 285s use the same memory

Using precision I run 753/1675/1507

I think the memory will do a bit more but I haven't tested.

[NapalmV5]

i precision set @ those clocks and when i run ETQW the system reboots lol vcore modded!!

looks like i got the vanilla and you got the amp for a vice versa $$$ :rofl: not fair!!

[dengyong]

i precision set @ those clocks and when i run ETQW the system reboots lol vcore modded!!

looks like i got the vanilla and you got the amp for a vice versa $$$ :rofl: not fair!!

I'm getting a full cover block for it as soon as they're available, I have to turn the fan up to 90% to play crysis for more than 15min.

[NapalmV5]

water should help get 50/50/50 + on top of mods


amp @ 1.26v i can game ETQW stable @ 800/1764/1485 @ precision.. no cap mods

though a few mem mhz less thats smgt my ssc is not capable of @ same voltage without the cap mods

[NapalmV5]

deleted

[NapalmV5]

update: ssc gpu is fine.. ssc is back!

i just tried 4 x 820uf 4V chemicon caps where 4 x 330uf tantalum caps normally occupy and now at least stock clocks are stable again

now i can breathe easier.. :) whephew

time to find out what really makes the 285 tick :D

[Biker]

He he he....

I think that poor SSC needs to be booked in for some trauma support :D

[kiwi]

Napalm, have you tried RT softmod to overcome OVP?

I like your true120 copper on GPU, almost 2Kg is pretty extreme :up:

[NapalmV5]

^ lol its finally out of intensive trauma unit and doing well now

^ unfortunately isl6327 + rt: no go


clocks back @ ~800/1750/1500 @ ETQW

no loss @ clocks/performance

as for gain.. instead of the bulky caps on the back.. these kemet caps perform just as good and keep temps down

the cornell fim caps are bulky themselves and the leads would be even longer so i didnt even bother.. the small film caps would go better

[NapalmV5]

vmem
http://i48.tinypic.com/651ooy.jpg

10K : 2.25-2.29v
4.7K : 2.34-2.37v

[CryptiK]

Those caps look much better, although having as much value as the card in caps added to it was good for the extreme factor ;) If they give so much benefit (30MHz core) I wonder why for the sake of saving a few cents Nvidia didn't put caps on the vacant spaces in the first place.

Just to clarify, was it the addition of the caps on the 4 vacant spots on the back of the card that gave the initial 30MHz increase in core? Then the swapping of the solid caps for the 1000uf 16v blackgate fk's that gave the extra 20MHz?

Nice work on the vmem mod too :up:

[NapalmV5]

thanks

yeh the caps on the back and front pushed the ssc further.. it wouldnt budge no matter what.. vcore only .03v higher didnt help anything.. neither the cooler

without the caps 800/1750/1500 no way in hell @ ETQW

[ptelles]

Nice work Napalm! :up:

[NapalmV5]

thanks


well guys i believe this is the ovp mofo:

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5889/ovpod3.jpg

pretty easy to find thanks to the isl6327 datasheet

the 100K resistor rings all the bells to me.. what do you guys think?

it would have to be removed and replaced with a ~50k or less or vr

can you guys confirm? if someone confirms ill replace the damn thing in a heartbeat :)

[CryptiK]

I know you know what you are doing, but I have to ask are you certain it is OVP triggering the shut down though? That is, if you raise vGPU during idle, does the card get a black screen and vGPU ~0v or reboot when ~1.30v+ is reached? Or is it only under load it results in black screen or shutdown? If its the second option it is most likely OCP being triggered, unless under load there is .

I'd need to see a close up pic of the area surrounding the ISL627 chip, but from the circuit diagram it appears OVP is controlled by one pin (44), and you may very well be correct with your identification. Can you locate pin 44 and follow where the trace from that pin leads?

To completely remove OVP it says to leave the pin open so removing the resistor completely would remove OVP. However if you wanted to increase OVP point you could add a 100K resistor in parallel giving 50K total, giving a 50% reduction in OVP signal, or you could use 100K VR in parallel and tune total resistance to allow and adjustable OVP point.

Doing the OCP mod is harder obviously, as you'd need to do something similar to what I did with the G80 OCP/vdroop mod which was solder SMC resistor across each capacitor in each phases R/C circuit controlling Isen for each phase (linked to Isen+ & - pins for each phase).

[NapalmV5]

pin 44 doesnt lead to anything on the front so it leads to the back.. right to that resistor.. at least how i see it


even @ 10k/15k resistor the vcore still remains @ 1.26 and the card doesnt os boot.. i say it has to be ovp kicking in.. i dont think ocp would be active before the ovp at this voltage

thanks for the help.. ill try that ^

[CryptiK]

Ok sure, can you measure if there is continuity between pin 44 and one end of that 100K resistor? (I'm not sure if the pins are large enough to probe individually). If so, I'd go for it.

If it won't even load OS @ 1.26v then I'd agree its probably OVP triggering shutdown. It would IMO be safer to add a 500K VR to the 100K resistor in parallel so you'd only be getting around 83K total resistance reducing the OVP signal by ~17%, so if its not the correct resistor it wont be causing a very large alteration in circuit behaviour. If this at least lets you load OS at 1.26v then you know you're on the right track, so reduce it to 50K and try again.

[NapalmV5]

i added a 100k resistor and now the cores finally getting 1.3v @ 10k but no os boot :(

added 47k 22k 10k (1.32vcore) no os boot

ill try 200k next

edit: @ 200k added to the 100k vcore @ 1.27 @ 10k

still no os boot

[CryptiK]

Do you mean you'll now remove the existing 100K resistor and put in its place a 200K resistor?

The minimum OVP point with a valid VID is VID + 150mv, so if EVGA have set VID to 1.20v OVP should not trigger until 1.35v minimum. However if they are adjusting vgpu above the set vid by bios or another method, while retaining the standard VID of 1.15v, that puts OVP at 1.30v like is happening.

Since that lowering that resistors resistance is having the effect of raising the vgpu the core receives, but even adding 10K to it decreasing OVP signal by ~91% didn't allow OS boot at only 1.32v, perhaps it's worth considering removing it entirely leaving the OVP pin open? This isn't 'safe' but shouldn't cause any negative effects as pin 44 is only used for OVP. If that doesn't allow boot at any voltage, something else must be limiting it.

That's if adding the 200K resistor doesn't work.

[NapalmV5]

yeh i was thinking the same.. removal

im doing this on the amp 285

havent tried it on the ssc yet

[CryptiK]

It doesn't show on the circuit diagram what OVP pin connects to. The pins that are connected to ground through a resistor is pin 11 (I out), TCOMP, OFS, FS, SS. SS is pin 43, right next to OVP.

Sure pin 44 is connected to that 100K resistor?

The only real way to work this out is find continuity between pin 44 and a nearby component with the DMM.

[NapalmV5]

i removed the 100k resistor.. 10k @ vcore: 1.27vcore still no os boot

1.26vcore os boot
1.27vcore no os boot

something else in the way..

it sure looks ovp pin goes to the back of the card to that resistor.. i could be wrong

[CryptiK]

You'll have to use DMM to find continuity between pin 44 and a nearby component.

EDIT - perhaps altering the VID resistor arrangement is a way around this issue? See the table in the data sheet.

[NapalmV5]

^ indeed.. vid resistor arrangement for higher vcore should work


ive read more @ datasheet.. looks like ocp occurs @ 2v+


If the voltage is higher than
2V, ISL6327 will go into the OCP mode


do you think vrrdy (pin 45) has also smtg to do with this?


VR_RDY - VR_RDY indicates that the soft-start is completed
and the output voltage is within the regulated range around
VID setting. It is an open-drain logic output. When OCP or
OVP occurs, VR_RDY will be pulled to low. It will also be
pulled low if the output voltage is below the undervoltage
threshold.

[NapalmV5]

check this out:


Overvoltage Protection
Regardless of the VR being enabled or not, the ISL6327
overvoltage protection (OVP) circuit will be active after its
POR. The OVP thresholds are different under different
operation conditions. When VR is not enabled and before
the 2nd soft-start, the OVP threshold is 1.275V. Once the
controller detects a valid VID input, the OVP trip point will be
changed to the VID voltage plus 175mV.

[CryptiK]

VR_RDY appears to trigger the phase shutdown after OVP or OCP is triggered, so although it does have something to do with it, it's not the cause of the problem. The main issue here is the data sheet doesn't show how OVP is configured.

As you saw, before a valid VID is read its 1.275v and after its VID + 175mv. Getting around this is not straightforward. At this stage all I can think of is VID alteration unless I can figure out how to get around the OVP sensing the actual voltage.

However it seems that this VID + 175mv is set internally, as for example with the OCP point they explain which resistors control this, but there is no mention of how OVP is controlled with resistors or an R-C circuit.

[NapalmV5]

vid resistor arrangement ?

http://img244.imageshack.us/img244/2594/vmodph8.jpg

ssc has a resistor at the spot where the amp does not

my ssc: 1.23v
my amp: 1.13v

[CryptiK]

looks like they have to be as there are none on the front side i can see corresponding to the VID pins.

However all those spaces are filled and I cant see any VID's that have all 1's. Unless the resistors differ in value so for ex a 30K is read as open and a 50K is read as closed.

What do those resistors measure? Are they all the same? Just wondering where the 30-50K on your pic comes from. They may be part of a circuit that adds to the resistance so the actual resistor may be less than that.

Also I have a non ssc model coming in a couple of days and i'd like to add a resistor in the space to raise VID to SSC level if i can confirm they are the VID resistors and confirm the value of the resistor to add there.

[NapalmV5]

dont mind the 30-50k

thats what i used to increase vcore and vmem on the amp.. posted that @ news forum thread

i did measure but i forgot.. let me measure again

be right back

[CryptiK]

So what exact resistance did you use in that space on the zotac to raise vgpu & vmem? (I will do this on mine when it arrives).

I'm just thinking if we can see a high/low resistance pattern and match it to the open/closed pattern in the VID table we could figure out which resistor is which in the VID table.

[NapalmV5]

22k produced 1.26vcore/2.17vmem


so there are 16 spaces.. on the ssc 1/2/3/11 are occupied where 1/3/11 are occupied on the amp the rest are vacant

on my not so great dmm all resistors are of the same value: 1ohm

gotta get a better dmm for such finesse measuring

[CryptiK]

I can't see an obvious pattern there. Nvidia have been known to put VID resistors in strange arrangements, like 1,4,2,3 left to right for example.

Are the VID pins on the ISL6327 chip large enough to get the probe of a DMM on? If you can find which VID pins have continuity with specific resistors in that row, that should allow resistor identification.

[NapalmV5]

after more fiddling around i doubt any kind of vid resistor arrangement allows past the 1.27/1.3 limit.. they built it such.. no way around that if theres limit elsewhere

the 100k may be the vr_rdy why it allows 1.32vcore @ 100k added

all 3 right here are 10k which possibly have to do with the 1.3ovp
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/7918/10kst7.jpg

which one.. ill look into later on tonight

[NapalmV5]

tried 10k resistor at all 3.. still no os boot

as for finding continuity my dmm is not up to the task.. will get one more appropriately

only so much info to go by from the datasheet.. im gonna let the experts have at it

once vcore freely gets more voltage.. clocks will take off

in the meantime.. cryptik/if you guys have anymore ideas.. let me know


after reading some more @ page 18-19


ISL6327 begins the
soft-start and ramps the output voltage to 1.1V first. After
remaining at 1.1V for some time, ISL6327 reads the VID
code at VID input pins. If the VID code is valid, ISL6327 will
regulate the output to the final VID setting

ill remove all mods and play around @ vid pins

[NapalmV5]

well looks like vid pins are more effective than resistor @ vcore

after several combos.. 1.00-1.25vcore most im getting

no resistor required just by connecting the points

so what is the combo to 1.3 1.4 1.5vcore ?

anyone ? :)

[persivore]

The OVP and VR_RDY pins are only logic level outputs to indicate the status of the voltage regulator, and shouldn't have any effect on the OVP threshold. The OVP threshold is derived by comparing VDIFF (effectively the output voltage of the regulator) and the reference VID value from a DAC + 175mV.

You might be able to tweek the reference voltage from the DAC by pulling the DAC pin up to a higher voltage (depending on the output impedance of the DAC), although doing this might damage the voltage regulator. If that doesn't work, the only other way to overcome OVP is to change the VID values.

[CryptiK]

I thought about that option but deemed it too risky considering the expense of these cards.

That's why I thought the only safe option is to attempt to modify the VID value through addition/removal or resistors/bridges. However its the identification of the appropriate resistors/spaces that is the tricky part without being able to test continuity between the VID pins themselves and the resistors.

[CryptiK]

I did the VID mod to get 1.22 vgpu, 2.13/2.14 mem. I had 1.15/1.16 vgpu and 2.11v mem stock.

Did you figure out if bridging any of the other VID contacts raises the vgpu any more than just having 1/2/3/11 bridged?

[NapalmV5]

The OVP and VR_RDY pins are only logic level outputs to indicate the status of the voltage regulator, and shouldn't have any effect on the OVP threshold. The OVP threshold is derived by comparing VDIFF (effectively the output voltage of the regulator) and the reference VID value from a DAC + 175mV.

You might be able to tweek the reference voltage from the DAC by pulling the DAC pin up to a higher voltage (depending on the output impedance of the DAC), although doing this might damage the voltage regulator. If that doesn't work, the only other way to overcome OVP is to change the VID values.

any idea to 1.3 1.4 1.5 heck even 1.6 ? :)



I did the VID mod to get 1.22 vgpu, 2.13/2.14 mem. I had 1.15/1.16 vgpu and 2.11v mem stock.

Did you figure out if bridging any of the other VID contacts raises the vgpu any more than just having 1/2/3/11 bridged?

bridge 4 and you may get 1.24-1.25v

after numerous combos on the amp i got to remove all 1/3/11 bridges.. i got as low as 1v and as high as 1.25v

havent had the time since then to try some more

its possible that the vid code validity goes hand in hand with the vid pins + vid bios.. im not sure since i didnt get to try

looks like nibitor maker finally released 4.8 but not the 4.9 going around that no one is sharing

dont know if 4.8 supports 285


still doesnt support 285

anyone out there willing to share 4.9 ?

[bito]

I did the VID mod to get 1.22 vgpu, 2.13/2.14 mem. I had 1.15/1.16 vgpu and 2.11v mem stock.

Did you figure out if bridging any of the other VID contacts raises the vgpu any more than just having 1/2/3/11 bridged?

CryptiK
Did you use a resistor at vid point 2 or just join the contact pads to end up with 1/2/3/11 on a std card?
Has it helped at all ?

[NapalmV5]

just bridge the points by solder/wire

if you use 22k resistor @ one of the points or by bridging the points with a 22k resistor then you get 1.26vcore/2.17vmem

[CryptiK]

CryptiK
Did you use a resistor at vid point 2 or just join the contact pads to end up with 1/2/3/11 on a std card?
Has it helped at all ?

As Napalm said just bridge it with solder, the 'resistors' they use are 0 - 0.1 ohms anyway (basically a dead short between the 2 contacts). Max stable clocks did improve after the mod.

On my card (base model EVGA):

1/3/11 = 1.16 vgpu / 2.11 vmem
1/2/3/11 = 1.22 vgpu / 2.13-2.14 vmem

EDIT - bridged the 4th contacts (so now have: 1/2/3/4/11 bridged), now have 1.23 vgpu / 2.15 vmem under load, basically at SSC voltages now.

Raising voltage hasnt had a large effect on load temps, before mods on auto fan speed it was ~80*C in really heavy scenes of crysis, at 1.22v is was around 83*C, and now at 1.23v it's around 85*C (but today is warmer weather too). Fan doesn't go over 72%.

[bito]

Great.....I have some silver conductive paint here, from the old Athlon days which i used for the same thing :D
Can be removed as well if need be. Thank you for sharing your efforts.

[dengyong]

As Napalm said just bridge it with solder, the 'resistors' they use are 0 - 0.1 ohms anyway (basically a dead short between the 2 contacts). Max stable clocks did improve after the mod.

On my card (base model EVGA):

1/3/11 = 1.16 vgpu / 2.11 vmem
1/2/3/11 = 1.22 vgpu / 2.13-2.14 vmem

EDIT - bridged the 4th contacts (so now have: 1/2/3/4/11 bridged), now have 1.23 vgpu / 2.15 vmem under load, basically at SSC voltages now.

Raising voltage hasnt had a large effect on load temps, before mods on auto fan speed it was ~80*C in really heavy scenes of crysis, at 1.22v is was around 83*C, and now at 1.23v it's around 85*C (but today is warmer weather too). Fan doesn't go over 72%.

Thank you CryptiK and NapalmV5.

I bridged 2 and 4 as well today, for a nice little performance boost on my vanilla zotac. http://service.futuremark.com/compare?3dm06=9927577
9436594366

[NapalmV5]

nice ^ :up:

your welcome :)

[nickless]

@NapalmV5, is there any chance for pencil vcore mod for GTX 285, as softmod is impossible for GTX 285 and GTX 260 55nm?
Thank's!

[NapalmV5]

sorry nickless no pencil but all it takes is silver conductive paint to bridge a vid pin

http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3619512&postcount=56

if you bridge vid pin 2 and 4.. take a look at post #71 by cryptik

and results @ post #73 by dengyong

[nickless]

sorry nickless no pencil but all it takes is silver conductive paint to bridge a vid pin

http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3619512&postcount=56

if you bridge vid pin 2 and 4.. take a look at post #71 by cryptik

and results @ post #73 by dengyong

Thank's mate, you are great. Last question, can I remove this silver conductive paint and how, when I decide to sell the card?

[CryptiK]

Yes silver conductive paint is easily removed with some isopropyl alcohol or acetone on a Q-tip. If you use acetone be careful what you get it on, it is quite a strong solvent, but I have not had an issue with it yet.

[CryptiK]

Napalm, would you mind measuring the shader voltage on your cards? I use one of the small caps a centimeter or so towards the rear of the card from the shader chip (on the back of card) - I'm pretty sure this is the shader voltage anyway.

[dengyong]

For anyone confused about the vmod here's a pic.
All credit to CryptiK and NapalmV5.
94504

[nickless]

I made it, I bridged 2 and 4 pin with silver conductive paint and now I have 1.22v Vcore and 2.12v Vmem. Thank's a lot to NapalmV5, dengyong and CryptiK :worship:.
Get some test now :hehe:

[dengyong]

I made it, I bridged 2 and 4 pin with silver conductive paint and now I have 1.22v Vcore and 2.12v Vmem. Thank's a lot to NapalmV5, dengyong and CryptiK :worship:.
Get some test now :hehe:

NapalmV5 and CryptiK did all the work and deserve all the credit. :up:

[ChinStrap]

hmm, i have an eVGA SSC - the first three from the left already have resistors on them. thats all though, 1,2 and 3 - the rest are blank.

would bridging set 4 help any you think?

[ChinStrap]

actually, looking again - 1,2,3 and 11 are resistored already.

[CryptiK]

1/2/3/11 is normal for SSC version, this gives ~ 1.23vgpu/2.15vmem. If you bridge 4 you will get a little extra voltage. I currently have 1/2/3/4/11 bridged and I'm experimenting with other arrangements.

[ChinStrap]

As Napalm said just bridge it with solder, the 'resistors' they use are 0 - 0.1 ohms anyway (basically a dead short between the 2 contacts). Max stable clocks did improve after the mod.

On my card (base model EVGA):

1/3/11 = 1.16 vgpu / 2.11 vmem
1/2/3/11 = 1.22 vgpu / 2.13-2.14 vmem

EDIT - bridged the 4th contacts (so now have: 1/2/3/4/11 bridged), now have 1.23 vgpu / 2.15 vmem under load, basically at SSC voltages now.

Raising voltage hasnt had a large effect on load temps, before mods on auto fan speed it was ~80*C in really heavy scenes of crysis, at 1.22v is was around 83*C, and now at 1.23v it's around 85*C (but today is warmer weather too). Fan doesn't go over 72%.

hmm. i just saw this. adding the 4th pin does infact give the extra .01 on vcore?

[ChinStrap]

this is a great thread. i thank you guys for your willingness to share!

your efforts are appritiated :)

[CryptiK]

Yes for me bridging 4 gave me an extra 0.01v on both vgpu & vmem.

[chispy]

Thanks for this guide guys ,well done. I would like to know where to measure v.core and v.mem ? where are the points to check with DMM ? i just got an xfx GTX 285xxx and i would like to measure my stock voltage and try this mod after testing the card on stock volts.
Any help and guidance will be greatly appreciated.

chispy.

[CryptiK]

I made it, I bridged 2 and 4 pin with silver conductive paint and now I have 1.22v Vcore and 2.12v Vmem. Thank's a lot to NapalmV5, dengyong and CryptiK :worship:.
Get some test now :hehe:

I was going to reply to your PM but it looks like you have it sorted now.


Thanks for this guide guys ,well done. I would like to know where to measure v.core and v.mem ? where are the points to check with DMM ? i just got an xfx GTX 285xxx and i would like to measure my stock voltage and try this mod after testing the card on stock volts.
Any help and guidance will be greatly appreciated.

chispy.

Hey Chispy, here's the points I use. Red = vgpu measure point, green = vmem measure point.

http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww206/CryptiKone/vgpuvmemmeasurepoints.jpg

[NapalmV5]

^ dengyong/cryptik - thanks

nickless - looks like you got it figured out thanks to cryptik/dengyong

if you guys also bridge vid 10 you may get 1.24-25vcore

if you guys want ~1.26vcore which is the most doable right now/~2.17vmem.. just solder a 22k resistor from ground to one of the points @ vid 2

your welcome guys :)


NapalmV5 and CryptiK did all the work and deserve all the credit. :up:

forget credit.. sharing is more rewarding :)

[NapalmV5]

Napalm, would you mind measuring the shader voltage on your cards? I use one of the small caps a centimeter or so towards the rear of the card from the shader chip (on the back of card) - I'm pretty sure this is the shader voltage anyway.

is it the smaller cap above/right of C1285 ?

[CryptiK]

I measured 1.18v at both caps to the right of where 'C1277' is written on the PCB. I may be wrong though this might not be shader voltage.

Also I just bridged VID 10 (as well as having 1/2/3/4/11 bridged) and got no change in voltage. Then I removed VID 4 leaving 1/2/3/10/11 bridged and got 1.21v load and a BSOD at stock clocks. No idea what caused it but I'm removing VID 10 and hope stability returns.

[nickless]

If 2/4/ give 1.22-1.23v, can I try 2/4/10 for some extra vcore?

[off] Are commands for GTX 285 in nvflash the same like GTX280:
For Normal Flash: nvflash -5 -6 newbios.rom
For Forced Flash: nvflash -4 -5 -6 newbios.rom [off]

[NapalmV5]

I measured 1.18v at both caps to the right of where 'C1277' is written on the PCB. I may be wrong though this might not be shader voltage.

Also I just bridged VID 10 (as well as having 1/2/3/4/11 bridged) and got no change in voltage. Then I removed VID 4 leaving 1/2/3/10/11 bridged and got 1.21v load and a BSOD at stock clocks. No idea what caused it but I'm removing VID 10 and hope stability returns.

sorry about that.. after so many combos..

i had:
1/2/3/4/5/11
1/2/3/4/5/10/11
1/2/3/4/5/9/10/11
many others

i dont remember exactly how i reached ~1.25vcore

probably vid 5 so: 1/2/3/4/5/11

im gonna confirm that in a bit..



If 2/4/ give 1.22-1.23v, can I try 2/4/10 for some extra vcore?

[off] Are commands for GTX 285 in nvflash the same like GTX280:
For Normal Flash: nvflash -5 -6 newbios.rom
For Forced Flash: nvflash -4 -5 -6 newbios.rom [off]

no just 1/2/3/4/11

let me see if i can get it ~1.24-25vcore


yes same commands

[chispy]

[QUOTE=CryptiK;3640847]I was going to reply to your PM but it looks like you have it sorted now.



Hey Chispy, here's the points I use. Red = vgpu measure point, green = vmem measure point.
QUOTE]


Thanks a lot Cryptik , appreciate your help bro. Testing today i will let you know how this mod goes on my card.


chispy.

[CryptiK]

sorry about that.. after so many combos..

i had:
1/2/3/4/5/11
1/2/3/4/5/10/11
1/2/3/4/5/9/10/11
many others

i dont remember exactly how i reached ~1.25vcore

probably vid 5 so: 1/2/3/4/5/11

im gonna confirm that in a bit..




no just 1/2/3/4/11

let me see if i can get it ~1.24-25vcore


yes same commands

Don't apologise, I'd been bridging things experimenting myself, and was minutes away from bridging VID 10 of my own accord.

I tried 1/2/3/4/5/11 and it didn't cause any change in voltage for me. I'd like to get 1.25v, I think that would be a good balance between heat & speed.





Thanks a lot Cryptik , appreciate your help bro. Testing today i will let you know how this mod goes on my card.


chispy.

No problem mate, hope you get some good results with it.

[NapalmV5]

i just redid 1/2/3/4/5/11 and @ startup its ~1.24vcore and @ load ~1.25-26vcore



next ill try 1/2/3/4/5/6/11

edit: startup @ 1.23vcore load @ 1.25-26vcore

[NapalmV5]

http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3635652&postcount=77


fgw,

Shall do that mate and get back to you.

I just finished reading and re-reading the Intersil ISL6327CRZ multiphase closed-loop feedback and compensation PWM Voltage Reg datasheet, the VR used by NV in the die shrink G200 reference cards, GTX 260 55nm and GTX 285 55nm.
Seems NV screwed you guys over with VR cost cutting this time around, mind you the IC itself only costs $5usd or so.

It's a VR designed with cost savings and affordability in mind so it lacks any kind of external low-pin count bus interface accessibility and relies on the pcb designer to set up all the necessary operational values in design and testing phase. There are 8 VID pins which when pulled up the base VID is read by which pins are 0 or 1 and converted to digital signal by DAC. '

Voltage adjustment is done through current offset via the OFS pin, which is polarity dependant for negative or positive offset, switch to Vss (gnd) for neg, switch to Vcc (vin) for pos. Offset is configured through external resistors connected between the DAC and REF pins, the impedance dynamically controls the current which in turn determines the Vout (voltage out).

Long story short, unless NV have some kind of low pin count programmable interface to adjust a pull up or pull down resistor connected between DAC digital VID signal pin and REF voltage reference pin there is absolutely NO CHANCE AT ALL to control Voltage Adjustments via software on either the GTX 260 55nm or GTX 285 55nm. The only way would be to change the resistor between DAC and REF pins, to give a greater current offset to drive Voltage out higher.

If EVGA is saying it is possible on their cards, short of physical changes to the NV reference cards to add this basic functionality I can't see how it is possible at all. I read over the datasheet a good 4 or 5 times just to make sure I completely understood the electrical design and don't see any way to do it.


lower resistance @ the 1kohm resistor dac/ref might lead to the back of the card lowers vcore.. higher resistance doesnt allow os boot @ 1.33vcore

suggestions?


cryptik.. what you think about the 1k resistor on the back.. its the 1st resistor at the bottom right of the vid pins.. the 26.6k resistor is the 2nd one

[CryptiK]

Interesting, what do you get with just 1/2/3/4/11 ?

[10acjed]

Thanks for all the info guys.. I will be doing some testing this weekend on my BFG OC to see what stock vgpu and vmem are and seeing if i cant grab an extra few mhz from this.....

:up:

[NapalmV5]

Interesting, what do you get with just 1/2/3/4/11 ?

im gonna play around with the 26.6k later today

1/2/3/4/11: 1.22-23vcore



Thanks for all the info guys.. I will be doing some testing this weekend on my BFG OC to see what stock vgpu and vmem are and seeing if i cant grab an extra few mhz from this.....

:up:

good luck :up:

[10acjed]

edit.. i found the vgpu 1.18 load, and 1.09 idle with it downclocked...

thanks

It appears that on my BFG OC version pins 1/3/11 are already bridged as well. So Id like to see what I get by bridging 2/4. are there any other combo's that may help?


Also, does anyone know a chain store for a conductive pen? Im getting low and I dont feel like waiting if i run out.... thanks again

[dengyong]

edit.. i found the vgpu 1.18 load, and 1.09 idle with it downclocked...

thanks

It appears that on my BFG OC version pins 1/3/11 are already bridged as well. So Id like to see what I get by bridging 2/4. are there any other combo's that may help?


Also, does anyone know a chain store for a conductive pen? Im getting low and I dont feel like waiting if i run out.... thanks again

Radio shack has conductive ink pens.

The answer to your other question is in the previous posts. :up:

[MisterMagoo]

For anyone confused about the vmod here's a pic.
All credit to CryptiK and NapalmV5.
94504

Forgive me for sounding like a noob here.

Can this be done with a pencil for easy reversal? Also how are you all seeing voltage?

Edit: Sorry.


sorry nickless no pencil but all it takes is silver conductive paint to bridge a vid pin

http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3619512&postcount=56

if you bridge vid pin 2 and 4.. take a look at post #71 by cryptik

and results @ post #73 by dengyong

[dengyong]

Forgive me for sounding like a noob here.

Can this be done with a pencil for easy reversal? Also how are you all seeing voltage?

Edit: Sorry.

No pencil, use conductive ink for easy reversal.

For voltage check post 90.

[MisterMagoo]

When measuring the voltage where are you pointing the negative on the multi?

[NapalmV5]

@ psu molex black wire plug

[MisterMagoo]

Thanks.

[MisterMagoo]

How long should I let the ink dry before installing/running a bench?

[dengyong]

How long should I let the ink dry before installing/running a bench?

Until you're sure it will stay where you put it.

[CryptiK]

If you are going to use ink, measure the resistance between the 2 contacts you bridge with ink - when the ink is wet the resistance is high, and it falls as it dries. Once it's close to a dead short (the value you get on the DMM when you touch the 2 probes together) you can install & power on.

Also make sure you don't bridge anything you are not supposed to, just the 2 small contacts at each VID position.

[MisterMagoo]

Ok,

I am getting 1.25v on gpu with 1/2/3/4/5/11 and 2.15v on the mem. Time to play.

[ChinStrap]

so going 1/2/3/4/5/11 loads @ 1.25vgpu?

i was wondering this.

thank you

[MisterMagoo]

Yep.

[MisterMagoo]

801/1730/1452 on my vanilla...

I have had so many bsod the past week trying to bang out benches at 4.6ghz that I think I borked my OS install. So I am also having driver issues...going to reformat and see where I get.

[tranceaddict]

I'm confused do you bridge vid pin 2 and 4 or 1/2/3/4/5/11? Can someone clear this up for me? Also does this work on all GTX 285s or just certain brands?

[CryptiK]

1/3/11 are already bridged from factory on a standard card.

On an EVGA SSC card, 1/2/3/11 are already bridged from factory.

When we talk about bridging 2/4/5 we are meaning bridge them in addition to the ones already bridged from the factory.

If you have a standard card (1/3/11 already bridged):

Standard vgpu is ~1.16v

Bridging (2) will give ~1.23 vgpu load.

Bridging (2) & (4) will give ~1.24 vgpu load.

Bridging (2), (4) & (5) will give ~1.25 vgpu load.

If you have an EVGA SSC card (1/2/3/11 already bridged):

Standard vgpu is ~1.23v

Bridging (4) will give ~1.24 vgpu load.

Bridging (4) & (5) will give ~1.25 vgpu load.

If the card is reference design (which I think they all are but I can't be certain) then it should work fine.

[tranceaddict]

1/3/11 are already bridged from factory on a standard card.

On an EVGA SSC card, 1/2/3/11 are already bridged from factory.

When we talk about bridging 2/4/5 we are meaning bridge them in addition to the ones already bridged from the factory.

If you have a standard card (1/3/11 already bridged):

Standard vgpu is ~1.16v

Bridging (2) will give ~1.23 vgpu load.

Bridging (2) & (4) will give ~1.24 vgpu load.

Bridging (2), (4) & (5) will give ~1.25 vgpu load.

If you have an EVGA SSC card (1/2/3/11 already bridged):

Standard vgpu is ~1.23v

Bridging (4) will give ~1.24 vgpu load.

Bridging (4) & (5) will give ~1.25 vgpu load.

If the card is reference design (which I think they all are but I can't be certain) then it should work fine.

Thank you for the very excellent answer; it is exactly what I was looking for.

[NapalmV5]

i got the ssc @ 1.29vcore load

i might be onto smtg

[NapalmV5]

yeh!! 1.33vcore @ load

pencil mod at it :)

[CryptiK]

Woah nice, what did you do?

I had no time to play over last couple of days been really busy.

[10acjed]

yes Napalm, please share the secret... 1.33 sounds real appealing....


good job BTW :up:

[NapalmV5]

still testing guys :)

got it up to 1.36vcore @ load

and i think i have it figured out :D

let me find some pix and ill explain in a bit..

[nickless]

still testing guys :)

got it up to 1.36vcore @ load

and i think i have it figured out :D

let me find some pix and ill explain in a bit..

Awesome man, I have no patience to see it. I need more power. With 1.22v I get 810/1764/1458 benchable , but I need more :D

[NapalmV5]

i took another look at the datasheet and its right there.. i looked too hard and didnt see it!

- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1671/20104163iv0.jpg
1.33vcore @ load

or

- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3606/54589411ae7.jpg
1.33vcore @ load


pencil + 150ohm resistor = 1.36vcore @ load

cryptik if you want to confirm .. and look at the vdiff pin @ datasheet ;)

[CryptiK]

cryptik.. what you think about the 1k resistor on the back.. its the 1st resistor at the bottom right of the vid pins.. the 26.6k resistor is the 2nd one

So sorry I totally missed this.

From the data sheet the only 2 100K resistors appear to be implemented in the phase switching frequency and soft start ramp rate circuits. There are other components that use an R/C circuit for adjustment though. However in a circuit, the 100K you measure is obviously the cumulative resistance of all the components in that loop so the value of the given resistor is bound to be different, and not 100K individually.

I will look over the circuit diagram/notes some more and try to elucidate some sense from it.

However from your last couple of posts it looks like you are onto something for sure.


i took another look at the datasheet and its right there.. i looked too hard and didnt see it!

- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1671/20104163iv0.jpg
1.33vcore @ load

or

- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/3606/54589411ae7.jpg
1.33vcore @ load


pencil + 150ohm resistor = 1.36vcore @ load

cryptik if you want to confirm .. and look at the vdiff pin @ datasheet ;)

Of course, that resistor corresponds to the vcore mod solder point on the back of the card and Pin 17 (vdiff), which is connected to the FB loop.

As you skew the vdiff reading the output voltage changes accordingly regardless of VID selected, as long as the VID is valid.

Excellent.

EDIT - 150 ohm is very low, whats the resistance from the mod point (on back of card in second pick) to ground? (I can measure if you want but I'll have to pull my card out).

[10acjed]

i took another look at the datasheet and its right there.. i looked too hard and didnt see it!

- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- vid 1/2/3/4/5/11 bridged.. pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1671/20104163iv0.jpg
1.33vcore @ load





Am I correct in reading the resistance by checking the 2 points we are shading? IE: red top green bottom and lower resistance to 350?

also what would the original be?

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/6461/20104163iv0in8.jpg

Thanks for this one... Great work :up:

[nickless]

NapalmV5, can I use silver conductive paint instead of pencil?
Thank's for the mod!

[SAE]

^^ :eek: Great job, mates. :up:

[MisterMagoo]

Let me know what results you guys get. With just 1/2/3/4/5/11 I can run 775/1700/1500 through vantage, havent tried more on the shader or mem. And I can run 775/1756/1533 through my other fav bench. 750/1700/1500 furmark stable 1920x1200 16X MSAA for 20 minutes 87C max.

[tranceaddict]

Are these voltage not getting a little too high for stock cooling? Is 1.33V not a little too high, after all the vanilla voltage is 1.16v?

[ChinStrap]

Are these voltage not getting a little too high for stock cooling? Is 1.33V not a little too high, after all the vanilla voltage is 1.16v?

no.

turn up the fanspeed or go aftermarket :)

[CryptiK]

NapalmV5, can I use silver conductive paint instead of pencil?
Thank's for the mod!

Absolutely not, the purpose of using pencil is to lower the resistance somewhat, to 300 - 400Ohms. If you use conductive paint, you will create a dead short (0 Ohms resistance) and this will almost certainly result in a dead card.

That said, it is always better to use a hard mod than pencil.

[nickless]

Absolutely not, the purpose of using pencil is to lower the resistance somewhat, to 300 - 400Ohms. If you use conductive paint, you will create a dead short (0 Ohms resistance) and this will almost certainly result in a dead card.

That said, it is always better to use a hard mod than pencil.
Thank's, now I'm going to make this mod 1/2/3/4/5/11 and pencil.



EDIT: Hm, I've I bridged 1/2/3/4/5/11 with silver conductive paint and pencil the resistor with 2B, but now I have 1.21v :(. Before with 2/4/ it was 1.22v. Maybe I have to add more pencil or ...

[NapalmV5]

guys this resistor you have to really pencil on well

why ive indicated 300-400ohm resistance so before you try the mod measure so youre close to 400ohm or below

guys, for now just try the resistor/pencil mod


this is a fresh mod just hours ago.. other things/ways to try im not done

but the vdiff mod works and brings performance but you gotta bring cooling i dont think air can handle this kinda performance

its been a long night havent slept at all due to other matters im just too tired to continue.. after im fresh later today will continue

[Orangeblast]

This is outstanding. Phenomenal work being done here!

I'm putting my 2 SSCs on water soon, these mods should be go perfect with my cooling.

currently my SSCs can do 735/16XX/2800

I have great cards...all they need is more push...and more cooling and I'm in business.

[MisterMagoo]

My vanilla's dont break 60C when gaming/benching at 1.25v 100%fan. Furmark is the only thing that heats them up into the 80's.

[NapalmV5]

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3061/94449032bo5.jpg

cryptik would you confirm for me D21 thru D14 as being VID7 thru VID0 ?

if so.. D19/D15/D14 being occupied.. would it suggest a reference voltage of 1.39375 ?

if so.. moving D19 -> D18/D15/D14.. would that make it a reference voltage of 1.49375 ?


or do i need more sleep.. thanks :)

[10acjed]

or do i need more sleep.. thanks :)

:clap: no rest for the wicked lol

[CryptiK]

http://img8.imageshack.us/img8/3061/94449032bo5.jpg

cryptik would you confirm for me D21 thru D14 as being VID7 thru VID0 ?

if so.. D19/D15/D14 being occupied.. would it suggest a reference voltage of 1.39375 ?

if so.. moving D19 -> D18/D15/D14.. would that make it a reference voltage of 1.49375 ?


or do i need more sleep.. thanks :)

Well those two patterns do match the patterns from the VR11 8bit table referring to the two voltages you mentioned. However I'm not sure what 'reference' voltage you refer to is.

In theory just altering the vdiff signal at pin 17 should be sufficient to raise/lower vgpu as necessary.

If you are thinking there is a maximum limit of 1.39375v imposed on the vgpu byt the diode arrangement, the only real way to test that semi-safely is put the card on water using a full cover block (covering mosfets as well) or even DICE if you have a pot and insulation and ramping the vgpu up.

[NapalmV5]

thats the reference voltage @ vid table

(DAC) generates a reference
voltage based on the state of logic signals at pins VID7
through VID0. The DAC decodes the 8-bit logic signal (VID)
into one of the discrete voltages shown in Table 3.

on the 285 amp i removed the 770ohm vdiff resistor and just soldered the points

1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged.. it bootsup @ 1.35vcore and load would be 1.40-1.41 but the screen just goes blank

so indeed i believe the max vcore is 1.39375 thanks to d19/d15/d14

vdiff is still limited by the reference voltage

yes this vid mod would be for better cooling than air

[CryptiK]

Yeah I was thinking you meant the max voltage set by those VID pins. Its definitely worth a try. I wish I had 2 cards, one for experimentation and one to use full time.

[NapalmV5]

im gonna do that if/when @ vapochill :)


well guys heres the guide to 1.36vcore (1.39375 max)

i bridged 1/2/3/4/11/12 according to the diodes (d19/d15/d14) on the front of the card

step #1
- simple way to increase vcore from 1.15v reference
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/998/49555888ru5.jpg
1.26vcore @ load

step #2
- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/1671/20104163iv0.jpg
1.29-1.33vcore @ load

step #3
- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9937/38313600hn4.jpg
1.36vcore @ load

2.20vmem @ load

unfortuanately no matter how low the resistance gets @ step #2

all is limited to the reference voltage: 1.39375

past this voltage further mods are needed

im sure this still confuses some so if you guys want to revise the mods feel free

[tranceaddict]

So connecting 12 gives an extra 0.01V over just 1/2/3/4/11?

[NapalmV5]

yes

i shouldve seen it before but last night i finally had an illumination and i straighten out everything :)

1/2/3/4/11/12 is more the "correct" way of bridging..

1/2 @ D14 (VID0)
3/4 @ D15 (VID1)
11/12 @ D19 (VID5)

or even more "correct" (0-15)

0/1 @ D14 (VID0)
2/3 @ D15 (VID1)
10/11 @ D19 (VID5)

:)

all vcore mods up till post #144 have been alpha/beta mods

[Blkout]

My vanilla's dont break 60C when gaming/benching at 1.25v 100%fan. Furmark is the only thing that heats them up into the 80's.

Crysis will drive temps into the 80's. These cards will run 85c at 100% fan speed during heavy load. It doesn't matter which model or brand of card you have, they all do it.

[nickless]

However I pencil the resistor with 2B, I can't reduce the resistance more than 600 ohm (stock was ~750ohm acc.to my DMM), I'm still on 1.22v, but this is better then 1.15v.

[CryptiK]

Crysis will drive temps into the 80's. These cards will run 85c at 100% fan speed during heavy load. It doesn't matter which model or brand of card you have, they all do it.

Sounds like you have high ambients or a bad HSF mount. I replaced the stock thermal paste with MX-2 and with the fan on auto I get 85*C load in Crysis with the fan at ~72% and that's with 1.23/1.24v load. With the fan at 80 - 85% it holds temps in Crysis to ~78*C.


However I pencil the resistor with 2B, I can't reduce the resistance more than 600 ohm (stock was ~750ohm acc.to my DMM), I'm still on 1.22v, but this is better then 1.15v.

I'm quite certain Napalm used pencil as an experiment to identify the target resistor. Pencil mods are uncontrollable and not advisable. There is a hard mod you can do as shown, the solder point is as easy as it gets. Then you have total control.

If you absolutely must use a pencil instead, try one with a higher graphite content.

[MisterMagoo]

Crysis will drive temps into the 80's. These cards will run 85c at 100% fan speed during heavy load. It doesn't matter which model or brand of card you have, they all do it.

Nope not for me. Only thing to bring those temps is furmark, I just got done with 3 hours of warhead at 4x AA 1920x1200 with SLI.

[10acjed]

Nope not for me. Only thing to bring those temps is furmark, I just got done with 3 hours of warhead at 4x AA 1920x1200 with SLI.

not me either, i run 16850x1050 with 4xAA and never see temps higher than 70-72. OCCT fullscreen will get me to 85c in 5 min, but if no game will do that, why bother...

[MisterMagoo]

I have a question. Is running 1.26v on stock clocks bad? I need to break in my new cards for SLI but already did the mod. I run my fans at 100% all the time, will the voltage hurt anything? I am guessing not since people are running 1.3 on 280s with the voltage tuner.

[10acjed]

So is anyone seeing any gains from this?

So far I am running at 1.28 vGpu, up from my normal 1.18. But I have only gained 25MHz on my core, I went from 725 to 756, the next step higher and it crashes..

shader clock is the same as before, any higher and games crash as well..

I havent started testing memory clock yet.....

[SAE]

^^ Needs better cooling, else it won't improve clocks.

[10acjed]

^^ Needs better cooling, else it won't improve clocks.

I am seeing 73c when games crash... Thats about 3-5c higher than I was with 1.18v at stable OC...

would that little of an increase cause instability? I would think these cards could handle temps in the 70's, I had it up to 85c in OCCT GPU test with no crashes or errors at current stable clocks...

[MisterMagoo]

Cooling is def. not the issue. Some cards just dont like high clocks. One of my cards hits 775/1740/1525 and one barely gets over evga FTW speeds. I have only had the second for a day so I hope it clocks better after a bit of a break in.

[NapalmV5]

However I pencil the resistor with 2B, I can't reduce the resistance more than 600 ohm (stock was ~750ohm acc.to my DMM), I'm still on 1.22v, but this is better then 1.15v.


I'm quite certain Napalm used pencil as an experiment to identify the target resistor. Pencil mods are uncontrollable and not advisable. There is a hard mod you can do as shown, the solder point is as easy as it gets. Then you have total control.

If you absolutely must use a pencil instead, try one with a higher graphite content.

yeh dont use #2 HB for ex. no good

i used just a #2 and went over the resistor good.. no mercy

i got it as low as 320ohm

400-500ohm noticeable vcore increase


updated step #3
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9937/38313600hn4.jpg

[NapalmV5]

Well those two patterns do match the patterns from the VR11 8bit table referring to the two voltages you mentioned. However I'm not sure what 'reference' voltage you refer to is.

In theory just altering the vdiff signal at pin 17 should be sufficient to raise/lower vgpu as necessary.

If you are thinking there is a maximum limit of 1.39375v imposed on the vgpu byt the diode arrangement, the only real way to test that semi-safely is put the card on water using a full cover block (covering mosfets as well) or even DICE if you have a pot and insulation and ramping the vgpu up.


Yeah I was thinking you meant the max voltage set by those VID pins. Its definitely worth a try. I wish I had 2 cards, one for experimentation and one to use full time.

so i moved diode @ d19 to d18 on the amp 285.. now vcore remains the same 1.24v at bootup/2D/3D.. load i didnt get to try cause as soon as it os boots after couple of seconds screen goes blank.. im gonna try higher resistance @ vdiff and see if that stabilizes

http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/2186/71228432tg0.jpg

D19/D18 both trace to Q44
D15/D14 both trace to Q42

the rest are vacant

[CryptiK]

They really cut back on these cards, the 280's are built so much better. Also the 280's have such a superior voltage controller, this cheap intersil and only 4 vid choices is laughable.

I'm a little concerned about what the PWM can take, there only 2 mosfets per phase, it reminds me of the 8800GT with only 2 phases with 3 fets per phase. There is a space for another fet in each phase but seems like they didnt use it for cost cutting reasons.

I wonder how much current they can take before they blow?

[MisterMagoo]

I sure hope they can take what I am putting through them! Maybe this is another reason for no voltage tuner, not just the vreg themselves.

[dengyong]

^ lol its finally out of intensive trauma unit and doing well now

^ unfortunately isl6327 + rt: no go


well after numerous recaps heres the final recap on the ssc:

4 x kemet 470uf 6.3V tantalum @ gpu/2 x kemet 330uf 10V tantalum @ mem


1 x kemet 330uf 10V tantalum @ mem/4 x kemet 470uf 6.3V tantalum @ gpu


clocks back @ ~800/1750/1500 @ ETQW

no loss @ clocks/performance

as for gain.. instead of the bulky caps on the back.. these kemet caps perform just as good and keep temps down

the cornell fim caps are bulky themselves and the leads would be even longer so i didnt even bother.. the small film caps would go better

NapalmV5, would you recommend this mod for my card ?

[NapalmV5]

They really cut back on these cards, the 280's are built so much better. Also the 280's have such a superior voltage controller, this cheap intersil and only 4 vid choices is laughable.

I'm a little concerned about what the PWM can take, there only 2 mosfets per phase, it reminds me of the 8800GT with only 2 phases with 3 fets per phase. There is a space for another fet in each phase but seems like they didnt use it for cost cutting reasons.

I wonder how much current they can take before they blow?


I sure hope they can take what I am putting through them! Maybe this is another reason for no voltage tuner, not just the vreg themselves.

exactly .. hence the 1.26vcore limit

[NapalmV5]

NapalmV5, would you recommend this mod for my card ?

just @ vacant C561-4 (1st post)

4 x 4V-10V 1500uF electrolytic caps

or

4 x 4V-10V 330uf/470uf/680uf/1000uf tantalum caps


i guarantee higher core clock :up:

[dengyong]

just @ vacant C561-4 (1st post)

4 x 4V-10V 1500uF electrolytic caps

or

4 x 4V-10V 330uf/470uf/680uf/1000uf tantalum caps


i guarantee clock increase :up:

Thank you, could you recommend an online store for parts.

[NapalmV5]

i mainly use digikey.. sometimes newark.. theres arrownac many others

[NapalmV5]

@ digikey

enter capacitor @ search

click tantalum caps

apply 4mOhm esr filter - lowest esr tantalum they got

and you get the kemet 680uf 4v cap

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=399-4817-1-ND

13.25$ a pop


they also got low esr electrolytic caps @ lower $

1200uf http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-3065-ND

you can even go with this 2.5v 1500uf http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-3061-ND

you can go with surface mount caps but you gotta find the right size no more than 6mm which is too small for proper cap

[NapalmV5]

as for the 8 x 100uf 16v 24mohm esr chemicon stock caps..

im going for this 9mohm esr 470uf 16v nichicon
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-3019-ND

and 10mohm esr 470uf 16v chemicon
http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=565-3234-ND

ill try both

+ http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=493-3061-ND @ C561-4

[dengyong]

@ digikey

enter capacitor @ search

click tantalum caps

apply 4mOhm esr filter - lowest esr tantalum they got

and you get the kemet 680uf 4v cap

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=399-4817-1-ND

13.25$ a pop

Ordered, thanks :up:

[NapalmV5]

already? :eek:

i got the same 680uf kemet on the amp 285 :)

was able to play grid ~5min @ 800/1800/1485 on the stock cooler

if your gonna water your gonna do better than that

you can reuse the caps on smtg else after youre done with 285.. worthy investment :up:

[NapalmV5]

update

1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged

1.30vcore @ load

anyone want to confirm ?

[CryptiK]

I have 1.24v load with 1/2/3/4/11/12, I have been running that config since yesterday. I get the exact same vgpu with 1/2/3/4/11 bridged, adding vid 12 made no difference.

[NapalmV5]

thanks Cryptik

yes still am.. i cleaned off the vdiff resistor

though i recapped the back C561-4 to 680uf 4v kemet and front to 8x1000uf 25v bg nx

why am i @ 1.30vcore load.. hmm

[Blkout]

Sounds like you have high ambients or a bad HSF mount. I replaced the stock thermal paste with MX-2 and with the fan on auto I get 85*C load in Crysis with the fan at ~72% and that's with 1.23/1.24v load. With the fan at 80 - 85% it holds temps in Crysis to ~78*C.


No and no. 37c ambient in an enclosed case is just fine, at least that's according to Everest, it stays 21c in my house most of the time so everything is just fine. My stock paste has also been replaced with MX-2 and it helped idle temps by 2-3c but didn't do anything for load temps using Crysis.


UPDATE: I believe I see how you guys are keeping your temps down. I've been using the auto fan setting which gradually raises fan speed as needed, but in doing so, it will allow the GPU to reach 85c before the fan ramps up to 100%. Usually Crysis will drive my temps to 85c within a few minutes at the auto fan setting and then it just maintains 83-85c with the fan running near 100%. I just played Crysis for about 10 minutes with the fan set manually to 85% and temps never went above 72c. I guess once temps really start to climb up around 80-85c, it's hard for the fan to bring them back down below 80c, so if you turn the fan up manually, the temps just never reach those levels.

[NapalmV5]

change has definitely occurred.. vdiff resistor back @ 770ohm

and im getting 1.30vcore @ load just by the bridges alone

still trying to figure out where how why im getting .04v higher

btw this is on the ssc 285

[Blkout]

No and no. 37c ambient in an enclosed case is just fine, at least that's according to Everest, it stays 21c in my house most of the time so everything is just fine. My stock paste has also been replaced with MX-2 and it helped idle temps by 2-3c but didn't do anything for load temps using Crysis.


UPDATE: I believe I see how you guys are keeping your temps down. I've been using the auto fan setting which gradually raises fan speed as needed, but in doing so, it will allow the GPU to reach 85c before the fan ramps up to 100%. Usually Crysis will drive my temps to 85c within a few minutes at the auto fan setting and then it just maintains 83-85c with the fan running near 100%. I just played Crysis for about 10 minutes with the fan set manually to 85% and temps never went above 72c. I guess once temps really start to climb up around 80-85c, it's hard for the fan to bring them back down below 80c, so if you turn the fan up manually, the temps just never reach those levels.


One more update:

Since changing my fan speed manually to 100%, my vanilla eVGA 285 reached new stable clock speeds.

Best clock speeds with fan set to auto is 729c/1620s/1458m.

Best clock speeds with fan set to 100% is 756c/1656s/1512m.


My silver conductive pen should be here Tuesday and I think I might go ahead and order a FC block today seeing that reduced temps seem to have more affect than I would have thought on my clock speeds. I certainly can't live with the stock fan set to anything above 65% for everyday use.

[10acjed]

change has definitely occurred.. vdiff resistor back @ 770ohm

and im getting 1.30vcore @ load just by the bridges alone

still trying to figure out where how why im getting .04v higher

btw this is on the ssc 285

same here, it changes once I did the pencil mod, and even tho i erased it it continued to add .02 - .04 to my voltage...

I was at 1.18 load when i started before any modding, now i am at 1.20 load...

All other ink mods were completely removed, so just by shading the resistor you will see an increase in vGpu.

Too bad I cant get any OC gains tho...

[NapalmV5]

@ 10acjed

you gotta keep 1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged

i want to make it as clear as i can to everyone about vcore increase on the 285

step #1 vid bridge/s
step #2 lower vdiff resistance
step #3 lower resistance @ the point on the back of the card where ive indicated @ guide

step #3 could be avoided if enough low resistance @ vdiff resistor but thats a maybe and how high the vcore you want to go

theres no one bullet kills all on the 285 :( not yet anyways

maybe the experts/professionals will bring that

[CryptiK]

change has definitely occurred.. vdiff resistor back @ 770ohm

and im getting 1.30vcore @ load just by the bridges alone

still trying to figure out where how why im getting .04v higher

btw this is on the ssc 285

That's strange, if its all back to stock (except caps) it should be back to the old voltages. Are your DMM batteries ok?

EDIT just saw 10acjed's post - sure all the pencil residue is gone? Did you clean resistor with acetone or isopropyl?


One more update:

Since changing my fan speed manually to 100%, my vanilla eVGA 285 reached new stable clock speeds.

Best clock speeds with fan set to auto is 729c/1620s/1458m.

Best clock speeds with fan set to 100% is 756c/1656s/1512m.


My silver conductive pen should be here Tuesday and I think I might go ahead and order a FC block today seeing that reduced temps seem to have more affect than I would have thought on my clock speeds. I certainly can't live with the stock fan set to anything above 65% for everyday use.

When left on auto, my fan never goes over 72% to keep the gpu at ~85*C, at 1.24 vgpu.

The fans do get pretty loud thats why I leave mine on auto. Water should allow it to clock higher, the GT2XX series is very responsive to temperature.

[Blkout]

That's strange, if its all back to stock (except caps) it should be back to the old voltages. Are your DMM batteries ok?

EDIT just saw 10acjed's post - sure all the pencil residue is gone? Did you clean resistor with acetone or isopropyl?



When left on auto, my fan never goes over 72% to keep the gpu at ~85*C, at 1.24 vgpu.

The fans do get pretty loud thats why I leave mine on auto. Water should allow it to clock higher, the GT2XX series is very responsive to temperature.


Yea, I'm fine with my vanilla 285, it runs faster than a stock FTW edition with no mods at all. With water and some minor volt mods it should run even better. It was worth saving the $40-50 over the top of the line overclocked parts to get the same or better results and now that money saved can be applied to a GPU waterblock.

[NapalmV5]

That's strange, if its all back to stock (except caps) it should be back to the old voltages. Are your DMM batteries ok?

EDIT just saw 10acjed's post - sure all the pencil residue is gone? Did you clean resistor with acetone or isopropyl?

thats what i used no residue left.. i removed the mod so i can tell what diff the kemet 680uf makes on the ssc and so far performance is looking good

dmm battery still good but im gonna change it just to make sure

[bito]

FYI Guys...the GTX 285 FTW bios is available now over at mvktech :D

[MisterMagoo]

Sweet I will probably flash mine. FTW for $330 :)

[NapalmV5]

thanks ^ bito

i flashed my ssc to ftw and lost ~18 fps @ 181.20

might be diff story @ 181.22/182.05

[MisterMagoo]

Ill let you know how it goes, I flashed both mine just reinstalling drivers now.

[Blkout]

thanks ^ bito

i flashed my ssc to ftw and lost ~18 fps @ 181.20

might be diff story @ 181.22/182.05

That doesn't make sense if it's just a clock speed change. Certainly they didn't change anything else in the BIOS, or did they?

[MisterMagoo]

FTW is a much better bios for me. My second 285 would barely overclock compared to the first. Now they are both running 760/1700/1490. I am sure my first which is an amazing card would run 800's on the core with the volt mod and the FTW bios.

[Orangeblast]

That doesn't make sense if it's just a clock speed change. Certainly they didn't change anything else in the BIOS, or did they?

Nope. Nothing changed in the BIOS just better binning.

Only thing different with the FTW is better binning....same factory volt mod...and the BIOS probably just reflects better "stock" clocks.

Most of us in this thread could probably flash to the FTW BIOS with no issues (like BSOD or artifacting) We all seem to have some pretty solid SSC cards.

[Blkout]

Nope. Nothing changed in the BIOS just better binning.

Only thing different with the FTW is better binning....same factory volt mod...and the BIOS probably just reflects better "stock" clocks.

Most of us in this thread could probably flash to the FTW BIOS with no issues (like BSOD or artifacting) We all seem to have some pretty solid SSC cards.

Well, I figured as much, but his results didn't reflect that.

[Orangeblast]

Yea...they were a bit strange...



On a side note. Do you think we can get a summary of this thread?

it would be cool to say a 1 - XX step guide on how to fully mod the 285s...

also, noobish question here, when doing the volt mods and bridging those pin outs...do you need to do the CAP mods too? or are they completely independent of eachother?


Is water needed for the volt mods or can we just use the stock cooling?

[10acjed]

Yea...they were a bit strange...



On a side note. Do you think we can get a summary of this thread?

it would be cool to say a 1 - XX step guide on how to fully mod the 285s...

also, noobish question here, when doing the volt mods and bridging those pin outs...do you need to do the CAP mods too? or are they completely independent of eachother?


Is water needed for the volt mods or can we just use the stock cooling?

post #144 is more or less step by step to get to 1.36 vGpu - 2.20 vMem

[CryptiK]

thanks ^ bito

i flashed my ssc to ftw and lost ~18 fps @ 181.20

might be diff story @ 181.22/182.05

Did you compare the memory timing table between the two BIOSes? They may have loosened the timings to allow a better memory overclock in the FTW BIOS and as result running the same memory speed as original BIOS you may have lower bandwidth/higher latency.

[10acjed]

@ 10acjed

you gotta keep 1/2/3/4/11/12 bridged

i want to make it as clear as i can to everyone about vcore increase on the 285

step #1 vid bridge/s
step #2 lower vdiff resistance
step #3 lower resistance @ the point on the back of the card where ive indicated @ guide

step #3 could be avoided if enough low resistance @ vdiff resistor but thats a maybe and how high the vcore you want to go

theres no one bullet kills all on the 285 :( not yet anyways

maybe the experts/professionals will bring that


I had taken them all off because I had no clock gains so I am holding off til I get better cooling. I saw no need in putting extra voltage to it if its running fine now.

I probably did not clean the resistor enough because even with everything removed I am getting a reading that is .02 higher than when I started.

[nickless]

yeh dont use #2 HB for ex. no good

i used just a #2 and went over the resistor good.. no mercy

i got it as low as 320ohm

400-500ohm noticeable vcore increase...
Ok, I've found 6B pencil, also 21/2=HB. I'll try both of them, I hope one of these pencils will help this time.

EDIT: Between I've flashed my card with FTW BIOS, but nothing changed with FW 182.05.

EDIT2: I've managed to reduce the resistance with 21/2=HB pencil to 330ohm, but it gives me only 1.24v (before only with 1/2/3/4/11/12 it was 1.21v). I'll clear everything and make the hall mod again, maybe some bridges are not connected very well :shrug:

[SAE]

6B should work very well. It contains a good amount of graphite. :D

[NapalmV5]

i finally found the identity of the 330uf caps on the 285

they aint no tantalum but panasonic ecg sp-cap/polymer aluminum 2.5v caps.. duh! :shakes:

6-9mohm esr/but also low 3-3.5arms ripple current

im gonna recap the 6mohm esr 470uf 6.3v kemet tantalum (C84-7) to:

kemet 680uf 4v 4mohm esr/high 8.2arms ripple current

i wish i could find the 1000uf 2.5v 4mohm esr kemet.. before i order the 680uf ill hunt these down

this is gonna surpass stock performance and bring extra mhz :)

[SAE]

We want to see photos for sure! :up:

[NapalmV5]

^ alright :)

heres a pic of what i mean by performance.. cinebench opengl bench is very sensitive to this

285 amp @ 4 x 680uf kemet @ C561-4.. normally @ 8xxx score
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6120/285xk5.jpg

285 ssc currently @ 112xx score with the 680uf kemet @ C561-4
normally 8xxx score

[ChinStrap]

i finally found the identity of the 330uf caps on the 285

they aint no tantalum but panasonic ecg sp-cap/polymer aluminum 2.5v caps.. duh! :shakes:

6-9mohm esr/but also low 3-3.5arms ripple current

im gonna recap the 6mohm esr 470uf 6.3v kemet tantalum (C84-7) to:

kemet 680uf 4v 4mohm esr/high 8.2arms ripple current

i wish i could find the 1000uf 2.5v 4mohm esr kemet.. before i order the 680uf ill hunt these down

this is gonna surpass stock performance and bring extra mhz :)

man, i give you credit for being able to do this. i wish i could recap a GPU - my hands shake tooo much and my eye sight is VERY bad.

Please link caps you used and *begs like child* please post pics of what you re-capped.

i have a trusted person in mind for re-capping. :)

[Orangeblast]

What kind of temperatures are you seeing with the voltage mods?

[MisterMagoo]

I am at about 70C in warhead a couple hours.

[Orangeblast]

only 70c with all those Volt mods?

[MisterMagoo]

Yep. Running stock speeds FTW bios.

[Orangeblast]

you didn't get any more gains from bridging all those connectors and doing the pencil mod?

[MisterMagoo]

I did, but I dont need to run that 247. I get 70 fps 1920x1200 8x AA in crysis wars. But for benching I run 760/1700/1480 for now. And I just did the bridging, not the pencil. I basically just made my cards FTW.

Also FTW speeds are 720/1620/1390.

[Orangeblast]

My SSCs both do 735/1656/2800

I really got to get off my butt and try these mods out...I'm sure i can achieve 800 or so on the core and at least 1750 or more on the shader.

The shader is only restricted by the temperature, so if put these 2 beats on water I should see some huge gains.

[MisterMagoo]

Temp never held my shader back. My first 285 vanilla does 775/1760/1550 easily. My new one isnt broken in yet but I can tell it is loosening up a bit.

[10acjed]

Temp never held my shader back. My first 285 vanilla does 775/1760/1550 easily. My new one isnt broken in yet but I can tell it is loosening up a bit.

the added voltage didnt really affect my temps either. I have read a few times about the higher temps holding back the OC on these. Not meaning that it is overheating, but just that the clocks respond better when the temps are cooler. I know my card didnt overclock any better with added voltage, and temps seemed to max at 73c when it would crash, where I have seen as high as 78c on stable OC with no issue.

I ordered a HR 03 GTX and Im trying to find the VRM heatsinks. Had some correspondence with thermalright, but if anyone knows an online retailer that carries them let me know..

[hehee]

vanilla 285
solder link 1/2/3/4/5/11...=1.22v
try to shade resistor ,but too hard to shade it to desire ohm value...
finally solder 500k vr...trying at 1.3v...warranty void....hehee

[NapalmV5]

i penciled the vdiff resistor down to 100 ohm with a #2 easily

its more than possible just gotta try diff pencils

the lowest resistance that works is 200 ohm any lower and protections kick in..

330 ohm or 200 ohm both same 1.33vcore @ load

vid pins are holding that back from any higher

unfortunately looks like even vids are limited to this voltage

i got a 330 ohm vdiff resistor on the amp on which i moved d19 to d18 and still 1.32-33vcore.. 2D @ 1.24

then i removed d18.. same voltage.. the only diff 2D voltage returned to normal 1.08v

[10acjed]

What would you recommend on leads, I managed to find 6B at office depot. Seems the HB are very common, all i see everywhere else..

I am just awaiting the HR 03 GTX with xtra VRM heatsinks to get in stock, Thermalright shipped them out to resellers this week... But I figure when I have it apart I want to shade it as well as possible and see if I can get any clock gains with cooler temps...

[nickless]

I also managed to reduce the resistance with some 21/2=HB pencil to 290 ohm. I've cleared everything and made the hall mod again, but it gives me only 1.24v again. It looks like 1.33v is a dream for may card without hard vmod :(

[Blkout]

Guys, how come no one else is reporting any gains from this mod? Certainly this thread has been seen thousands of times and certainly some people have performed some of these mods as simple as they are.

Fo the record, I used a silver conductive pen last night on 2 and 4 and gained nothing on my vanilla eVGA 285. It was already a great overclocker, but it seems if these voltage mods were actual, they would produce better results.

Not sure why no one is really gaining anything worth noting. I admire the effort involved here and I'm not downplaying what's been accomplished, I guess I'm just wondering if it's even worth it if no one is gaining anything and it seems that the same 4-5 people are the only one's posting in this thread. Where are the others with their results? :shrug:

[10acjed]

good question... and these mods do work in the sense that reading the voltage before and after the mods shows the exact change.

However the additional OC is yet to be seen. As well with the ongoing bios/software modding it seems these gpu's could care less about the added voltage, they just dont want to run any faster.

[NapalmV5]

after getting a pm about a recap gone wrong now this ^ *sigh*

goodness sake guys! i only recommend the back to be capped @ C561-4

i do not recommend recap of the panasonic 330uf spcaps and sanyo 220uf poscaps unless you know well what youre doing.. and i posted on how bad the card got after that recap.. took a number of recaps to get the hang of the gpu/mem

looks like ill have to revise/delete posts



what miracles do you guys expect from such low v increment ? i was already at 1.26vcore load.. now @ 1.33

fake voltage?? well i guess a 1.38vcore at which temp rise higher than at 1.26/1.33 is fake too..

1.38vcore via step #3 is too much for stock cooler/thermalright hr03/air

im looking and looking and i may just get more vcore via other means but i only got so much time i can spend on the 285 and im doing it all alone by myself with my very limited knowledge the only help came/comes from cryptic here @ thread.. whom i owe another thank you

[MisterMagoo]

Guys, how come no one else is reporting any gains from this mod? Certainly this thread has been seen thousands of times and certainly some people have performed some of these mods as simple as they are.

Fo the record, I used a silver conductive pen last night on 2 and 4 and gained nothing on my vanilla eVGA 285. It was already a great overclocker, but it seems if these voltage mods were actual, they would produce better results.

Not sure why no one is really gaining anything worth noting. I admire the effort involved here and I'm not downplaying what's been accomplished, I guess I'm just wondering if it's even worth it if no one is gaining anything and it seems that the same 4-5 people are the only one's posting in this thread. Where are the others with their results? :shrug:

What do you mean actual voltage? It is there no doubt...everyone has tested with a MM and showing the increase in voltage...how could you refute that?

I saw major gains on one of my cards. Also note that HEAT kills OC no matter what, there are people without the volt mod doing 800 on the core with water so....imagine what it would be with it.

If it was not for this thread I would have stepped up to 295 I am glad I didnt because I spank 295s all day long.

[SAE]

Upping the voltages using the crappy stock cooler ain't cutting it. When you're getting temps like 85-95°C under heavy load unmodded, what do you guys expect from upping the volts??? BBQ??? <- you should!

Cooling is evident for clocking the shader core, I might even state it's more important than increasing volts. You always should improve cooling first.
Just my :2cents:

[Blkout]

What do you mean actual voltage? It is there no doubt...everyone has tested with a MM and showing the increase in voltage...how could you refute that?

I saw major gains on one of my cards. Also note that HEAT kills OC no matter what, there are people without the volt mod doing 800 on the core with water so....imagine what it would be with it.

If it was not for this thread I would have stepped up to 295 I am glad I didnt because I spank 295s all day long.

What I meant by actual voltage is that maybe it's possible those voltages are bring measured but not actually what the GPU is seeing. Maybe there's other components in the circuitry preventing the GPU from receiving the extra voltage from this mod.

My 285 has yet to break 73c under 100% fan load during loops of Crysis and will often run in the very low 60's for any other benchmark. If heat is the real issue we'll know tomorrow when my FC waterblock shows up, but I'm doubting that's the issue at this point. While I'm certain I'll gain just a slight amount from watercooling, I don't think any additional voltage from these mods are going to push it any further because my experience with this mod so far hasn't shown anything.

And what do you mean by spank 295's? If you're using two 285's you would, otherwise a 295 is still a faster than your overclocked single 285 by a considerable margin.

[Blkout]

Upping the voltages using the crappy stock cooler ain't cutting it. When you're getting temps like 85-95°C under heavy load unmodded, what do you guys expect from upping the volts??? BBQ??? <- you should!

Cooling is evident for clocking the shader core, I might even state it's more important than increasing volts. You always should improve cooling first.
Just my :2cents:

As stated above, my temps aren't exceeding 73c under the worst conditions and often remain in the low 60's for normal use gaming. Watercooling should bring that down to the high 30's or low 40's but I still doubt cooling is the issue with this volt mod simply because voltage can overcome heat to a certain point and I've seen ZERO results from this volt mod. I think there's something else holding it back that hasn't been realized yet. As stated by many others here, it's a bit strange that temps aren't going up at all with this volt mod either, which also leads me to believe the GPU isn't actually seeing the increased voltage.

We'll find out tomorrow though after I watercool my card. In the meantime I've removed the volt mods since they didn't do anything. I'll re-do them after I get my max OC numbers with a waterblock. If I'm wrong and the volt mods, I'll certainly come back and scream fantastic, but if they don't, I'll also report no gain.

[10acjed]

after getting a pm about a recap gone wrong now this ^ *sigh*


what miracles do you guys expect from such low v increment ? i was already at 1.26vcore load.. now @ 1.33

fake voltage?? well i guess a 1.38vcore at which temp rise higher than at 1.26/1.33 is fake too..

1.38vcore via step #3 is too much for stock cooler/thermalright hr03/air

im looking and looking and i may just get more vcore via other means but i only got so much time i can spend on the 285 and im doing it all alone by myself with my very limited knowledge the only help came/comes from cryptic here @ thread.. whom i owe another thank you


NaplmV5, I apologize if I seemed ungrateful in that post. I am no way ungrateful for the effort you have put into this. And thank you for the hard work.

[Blkout]

NaplmV5, I apologize if I seemed ungrateful in that post. I am no way ungrateful for the effort you have put into this. And thank you for the hard work.

Same here and I've already stated once in this post that I appreciated the efforts that went into this thread. Negative results shouldn't be viewed as negativity but constructive criticsm to help find out why there aren't more positive results from this mod. I'm simply trying to say that maybe there's something else holding back this volt mod. Not sure how it got misconstrued any other way as I thought I was quite clear in my posts.

However, maybe it's just that these cards aren't really limited by voltage as I've noticed that even with eVGA's recently released voltage tuner for the 260, 280 and 295 that many people aren't gaining anything either.

[SAE]

Did you actually measure vgpu and vram after and before modding? Generally there are cards out there not benefiting from volt mods whatsoever... but you will definitely see gains from switching to watercooling. I wonder why your temps are this low considering all the peeps claiming overheating cards or temps in the high 80s to low 90s when pushing those cards.

BTW, there were infos from the German (European) Subsidiary that all (most?!) of the vanilla cards should be already factory-modded to 1.2Vgpu... Wonder if this is the truth.

[Blkout]

Did you actually measure vgpu and vram after and before modding? Generally there are cards out there not benefiting from volt mods whatsoever... but you will definitely see gains from switching to watercooling. I wonder why your temps are this low considering all the peeps claiming overheating cards or temps in the high 80s to low 90s when pushing those cards.

BTW, there were infos from the German (European) Subsidiary that all (most?!) of the vanilla cards should be already factory-modded to 1.2Vgpu... Wonder if this is the truth.

No, I didn't measure the voltage before and after, but I'm 100% certain I did it correctly as I've got an extensive electronics bakground.

Well, I can't speak for anyone else, but as I stated earlier in this thread, if I leave my fan set to auto, the GPU temps will rise to 85-86c before the fan reaches full speed in an attempt to bring temps back down but usually once they've reached that high, the stock cooler is only able to bring temps back down to 82-83c as I believe it's programmed to run as slow as possible without exceeding 85c so it's quite possible the fan isn't even reaching 100%. However, if I set the fan speed manually to 100% before I start a 3D app, temps never exceed low 60's in most games and apps, and will only reach 73c in Crysis.

I'm sure I'll gain a little OC room from the watercooling alone, but I'm just questioning whether these volt mods have any actual affect on these cards, with or without watercooling.

[NapalmV5]

NaplmV5, I apologize if I seemed ungrateful in that post. I am no way ungrateful for the effort you have put into this. And thank you for the hard work.

your welcome :)

the response was towards Blkout

i got no control how you guys mod and all.. thats one.. mobo/psu is a big factor when it comes gpu vcore.. for ex. my giga ep45 extreme on which im testing the 285s.. the diff betweeen the default q9650s 3ghz and 4.5ghz oc is about .03 gpu vcore increase @ 4.5ghz.. the mobo ramps up the voltages all the voltages

psu v12 rail is also a factor

we are not all gonna get matching voltage some more some less


No, I didn't measure the voltage before and after, but I'm 100% certain I did it correctly as I've got an extensive electronics bakground.

Well, I can't speak for anyone else, but as I stated earlier in this thread, if I leave my fan set to auto, the GPU temps will rise to 85-86c before the fan reaches full speed in an attempt to bring temps back down but usually once they've reached that high, the stock cooler is only able to bring temps back down to 82-83c as I believe it's programmed to run as slow as possible without exceeding 85c so it's quite possible the fan isn't even reaching 100%. However, if I set the fan speed manually to 100% before I start a 3D app, temps never exceed low 60's in most games and apps, and will only reach 73c in Crysis.

I'm sure I'll gain a little OC room from the watercooling alone, but I'm just questioning whether these volt mods have any actual affect on these cards, with or without watercooling.

look man i dont need/want anyone to scream fantastic.. if it works for someone (MisterMagoo) great if it does not im sorry.. its out of my control.. only so much i can do/offer

if someone/anyone.. you want to scream no gain no problem just make sure your sure on that.. looks like your not..

if you got "extensive electronics bakground" then i should be applying your vmods to my 285 :)

come on.. we need 1.4vcore+

~1.5 would be nice :)

[Blkout]

Sorry to offend. From here on, I won't post in this thread and I'll keep all mod and cooling results to myself. If everyone does the same, maybe we'll all learn nothing from each other. So much for constructive criticsm. :shrug:

[dengyong]

NapalmV5....there are many here who appreciate your efforts, please continue.

[Hondacity]

NapalmV5....there are many here who appreciate your efforts, please continue.:up:

+1 you're work is uber good...i got one card coming...

[NapalmV5]

Did you compare the memory timing table between the two BIOSes? They may have loosened the timings to allow a better memory overclock in the FTW BIOS and as result running the same memory speed as original BIOS you may have lower bandwidth/higher latency.

dont have nibitor 4.9 which supports 285

i wasnt sure its the ftw bios untill flash

its probably just the drivers.. didnt have time to check 181.22/182.05 on the ftw bios.. maybe ill do it later this morning

[NapalmV5]

I had taken them all off because I had no clock gains so I am holding off til I get better cooling. I saw no need in putting extra voltage to it if its running fine now.

I probably did not clean the resistor enough because even with everything removed I am getting a reading that is .02 higher than when I started.

without the vid your not gonna get any higher clocks on stock cooling

[NapalmV5]

Ok, I've found 6B pencil, also 21/2=HB. I'll try both of them, I hope one of these pencils will help this time.

EDIT: Between I've flashed my card with FTW BIOS, but nothing changed with FW 182.05.

EDIT2: I've managed to reduce the resistance with 21/2=HB pencil to 330ohm, but it gives me only 1.24v (before only with 1/2/3/4/11/12 it was 1.21v). I'll clear everything and make the hall mod again, maybe some bridges are not connected very well :shrug:

1.24v @ load ?

you should be @ 1.3v load

[NapalmV5]

man, i give you credit for being able to do this. i wish i could recap a GPU - my hands shake tooo much and my eye sight is VERY bad.

Please link caps you used and *begs like child* please post pics of what you re-capped.

i have a trusted person in mind for re-capping. :)

lol i just deleted the pix of the recaps ive been doing

later today i should get the 1000uf 2.5v 4mohm esr kemet caps.. cant wait to getem on

but as for posting pic of that.. idk.. some will attempt (someone already has) the recap using different caps available to them and may get worse results than default clocks like i did at first..

the pic is not gonna look any diff than what i had up before.. the caps are exactly the same just diff values

ill think about it

[NapalmV5]

What would you recommend on leads, I managed to find 6B at office depot. Seems the HB are very common, all i see everywhere else..

I am just awaiting the HR 03 GTX with xtra VRM heatsinks to get in stock, Thermalright shipped them out to resellers this week... But I figure when I have it apart I want to shade it as well as possible and see if I can get any clock gains with cooler temps...

no.2

one no.2 got it down to 320ohm max the other got it down to 100ohm

[NapalmV5]

I also managed to reduce the resistance with some 21/2=HB pencil to 290 ohm. I've cleared everything and made the hall mod again, but it gives me only 1.24v again. It looks like 1.33v is a dream for may card without hard vmod :(

1.24v load ?

[NapalmV5]

Sorry to offend. From here on, I won't post in this thread and I'll keep all mod and cooling results to myself. If everyone does the same, maybe we'll all learn nothing from each other. So much for constructive criticsm. :shrug:

well sorry to offend you.. what have i been doing all this time..

how about before constructive criticism you actually proceed with the mods correctly/surely

[NapalmV5]

anyone not getting 1.30v @ load from doing vid bridging and vdiff mod (step #1 and #2 @ guide) suggests a redo of the vmods until 1.3 is achieved

as for clock gains i cant guarantee anything there

my ssc was affected more from capping C561-4 than .03v increment

the amp on the other hand was affected more from higher vcore/than the caps further helped

[CryptiK]

Napalm no need to thank me mate, you have been doing all the work I have just put my 2c in here and there. I and I'm sure a few others do appreciate your work and time. Thank you.

I did see an increase in vgpu and vmem after doing the mods, and as a result in clocks, as I reported earlier in the thread. I measured at the measure points I showed earlier in the thread and also at the caps behind the gpu socket, and there is definitely a gain.

My card wouldn't run crysis at 1620 shader at stock voltage and auto fan, 1512 was max, but now with 1.24 vgpu it does 1620 no problem with temps hitting 86*C on a hot day with the fan on auto never going over 72% duty cycle.

Before the mods I could not run 756 core on auto fan in crysis for 30 seconds, now it lasts 5 mins before locking, its almost stable, with another 0.02v I think it would be totally stable. If I crank the fan up to 100%, I can run 756c/1656s/1512m in crysis no problems at all.

Guys as Napalm said, do not attempt things that are out of your ability level. Re-capping/adding caps is relatively high level as far as modding goes, and takes some good soldering skills, which Napalm and myself have. Also the caps characteristics need to be selected carefully, adding caps/coils & other components can have deleterious affects due to resonance and other factors.

[NapalmV5]

Napalm no need to thank me mate, you have been doing all the work I have just put my 2c in here and there. I and I'm sure a few others do appreciate your work and time. Thank you.

I did see an increase in vgpu and vmem after doing the mods, and as a result in clocks, as I reported earlier in the thread. I measured at the measure points I showed earlier in the thread and also at the caps behind the gpu socket, and there is definitely a gain.

My card wouldn't run crysis at 1620 shader at stock voltage and auto fan, 1512 was max, but now with 1.24 vgpu it does 1620 no problem with temps hitting 86*C on a hot day with the fan on auto never going over 72% duty cycle.

Before the mods I could not run 756 core on auto fan in crysis for 30 seconds, now it lasts 5 mins before locking, its almost stable, with another 0.02v I think it would be totally stable. If I crank the fan up to 100%, I can run 756c/1656s/1512m in crysis no problems at all.

Guys as Napalm said, do not attempt things that are out of your ability level. Re-capping/adding caps is relatively high level as far as modding goes, and takes some good soldering skills, which Napalm and myself have. Also the caps characteristics need to be selected carefully, adding caps/coils & other components can have deleterious affects due to resonance and other factors.

youve helped me greatly and i appreciate it

if you got any idea youd like to try out.. im here ill try it on my 285s.. i got amp and ssc to sacrifice for whatever mods



edit: (d18 d15 d14) d18 increased 2d voltage to 1.22v (330 ohm vdiff resistor) but 3d voltage remained the same 1.33v

3d shouldve went up .10-.14v (that wud be ~1.47vcore) as well.. what u think its holding it back ?

[NapalmV5]

updated guide to 1.39375vgpu max

before attempting any vcore mod please measure your current vcore

courtesy: CryptiK
http://i720.photobucket.com/albums/ww206/CryptiKone/vgpuvmemmeasurepoints.jpg
red:vgpu/green:vmem


step #1
- for better understanding please check dengyongs post #80 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3639820&postcount=80) cryptiks post #112 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3648634&postcount=112) and #118 (http://www.xtremesystems.org/Forums/showpost.php?p=3648838&postcount=118)
- simple way to increase vcore from 1.15v reference
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/998/49555888ru5.jpg
1.26vcore @ load

step #2
- the lower the resistance at this resistor the higher the vcore allowed
- pencil this resistor to bring resistance down to around 350ohm
http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/8472/61141334nx3.jpg
1.29-1.33vcore @ load

step #3
- this step is more for the water/more xtreme cooling
- this point increases vcore according to the resistor in above pic ^
- solder a 150ohm resistor to ground from this red point
http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/9937/38313600hn4.jpg
1.36vcore @ load

2.20vmem @ load

so far ive gotten 1.38vcore

unfortuanately no matter how low the resistance gets @ step #2

all is limited to the reference voltage: 1.39375

past this voltage further mods are needed


thanks goes to Cryptik for all the help/confirmations

dengyong and everyone else contributing @ thread

[10acjed]

no.2

one no.2 got it down to 320ohm max the other got it down to 100ohm

Ok, I had read a few posts back that said the no.2 HB arent good for this and out of the 3 diff stores I stopped at, they all carried a vast array of HB no.2 pencils... I found a 6B no.2 lead refill pack that i picked up so I will probably use that....

:up:

[NapalmV5]

the no.2 HB i got barely did anything

dont go below 200ohm.. if you can bring it down to 300ohm keep it there :up:

and with the vid bridging you should get ~1.3 @ load.. while 3D runs measure vgpu

[tranceaddict]

I'm about to get a vanilla XFX GTX 285 and want to use "step 1" to get 1.26vcore @ load. The PCB layout should be the same on XFX as on the picture above, can anyone confirm that please?

[G4h4o8s6T]

can anyone confirm that please?Newegg has some good highres. pics of most of their cards, always a good place to check

http://www.newegg.com/Product/ShowImage.aspx?CurImage=14-150-334-S02&ISList=14-150-334-S01%2c14-150-334-S02%2c14-150-334-S03%2c14-150-334-S04%2c14-150-334-S05%2c14-150-334-S06&S7ImageFlag=1&Item=N82E16814150334&Depa=0&WaterMark=1&Description=XFX%20GeForce%20GTX%20285%20GX285NZDFF %20Video%20Card%20-%20Retail

1,3,11 look bridged the same as other vanilla cards.

[tranceaddict]

Just one more question; in the above pic (2),(4),(12) are bridged in addition to the already vanilla bridged ones, but in post #118 it says to bridge (2), (4) & (5) in addition to the alreaddy bridged ones. I assume that the (2),(4),(12) + (already bridged 1,3,11) is the correct method?

[10acjed]

Just one more question; in the above pic (2),(4),(12) are bridged in addition to the already vanilla bridged ones, but in post #118 it says to bridge (2), (4) & (5) in addition to the alreaddy bridged ones. I assume that the (2),(4),(12) + (already bridged 1,3,11) is the correct method?

that is correct. I dont think bridging 5 did anything. But I did 2/4/12 and got the desired voltage...

[joshua7]

Do you think, that a fully stock GTX285 can do 850Mhz on the gpu? Without mods, aftermarket cooling, anything? Read a test on a site and the writer clamis it is true.

[LexDiamonds]

What are people using to connect the bridges? Can it be done with a small blob of solder?

[SAE]

Has to be a VERY tiny blob of solder then. I just looked at my card to confirm that. I am gonna try to connect them using silver ink and a hair of a brush to apply it.

[10acjed]

Has to be a VERY tiny blob of solder then. I just looked at my card to confirm that. I am gonna try to connect them using silver ink and a hair of a brush to apply it.

I keep the alcohol and q-tip handy... i think i removed one of them 3 different times before i got it just right :rolleyes:

if it can be done with ink rather than a solder, i always recommend the ink as you can remove it.... just my logic

[G4h4o8s6T]

So I did the mods today, bridged 2,4,12(in addition to 1,3,11) and penciled the resistor down to 300ohm, but dont think Im getting the results I should.

Core- 1.23v Load

Mem- 2.11 Load

The bridges look good, and measured the resistance 5x, so I know its not that. But I kinded jumped the gun and did them all at once instead of trying each at a time. Do you guys recommend starting over from scratch? Or any other ideas?

[10acjed]

So I did the mods today, bridged 2,4,12(in addition to 1,3,11) and penciled the resistor down to 300ohm, but dont think Im getting the results I should.

Core- 1.23v Load

Mem- 2.11 Load

The bridges look good, and measured the resistance 5x, so I know its not that. But I kinded jumped the gun and did them all at once instead of trying each at a time. Do you guys recommend starting over from scratch? Or any other ideas?


something sounds wrong. I did all 3 resistors at once and got results. you should be seeing at least clocser to 1.28 - 1.29 with all that..

I would double check all the resistors. Are you using conductive ink?

[nickless]

So I did the mods today, bridged 2,4,12(in addition to 1,3,11) and penciled the resistor down to 300ohm, but dont think Im getting the results I should.

Core- 1.23v Load

Mem- 2.11 Load

The bridges look good, and measured the resistance 5x, so I know its not that. But I kinded jumped the gun and did them all at once instead of trying each at a time. Do you guys recommend starting over from scratch? Or any other ideas?
Same here, I did the mods three times already, everything looks good, penciled the resistor down to 304ohm, but my vcore and vmem are the same like yours.