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n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 06:08 PM
04E20C1-R3022
Is the model number of a Parker solenoid valve I have, infact I have quite alot of these.
I think oddly enough, that its actually a NO valve, so normally open, and needs power to close. This would well, suck, as the application there in is supposed to go the OTHER way and triggering these to make them open would mean a pain in the buttocks.

ultralo1
01-13-2009, 06:21 PM
Just blow through one end of it. If it is NO you will feel it on the other side.

If it is NO just add a relay and wire the coil from the controller and wire the solenoid to the NC contacts.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 06:33 PM
There in a system, I'll go open up another.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 06:35 PM
Nope, can't blow through, as I thought, NC. Now why are these open when I'm not powering them... Hm....

[XC] gomeler
01-13-2009, 06:43 PM
Perhaps the valve is jammed? The orifice for the valves is quite small I believe, like a needle valve. I know small quantities of frozen oil can keep them from closing, perhaps you have something stuck in there? Or maybe you have a freak valve that really wants to be NO instead of NC :p:

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 06:46 PM
But two? The one I've got here I can't blow through, so it's cleared NC.
The others are the exact same. One's a hot gas bypass, unpowered, it's spitting heat, powered, the line isn't warm. So it's definitly OPEN when unpowered.
And I'm pretty sure my other valve is open, my pressures are a bit odd as they should be, but with the amount of ethylene in here, I should be seeing something else.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 06:53 PM
Tested out the second valve, hooked it straight up, no switches, Powers on. I hear solenoid noise that I'm used to. And low side rises, high drops a bit. So this ones apparently NC :P Well that's good to see! The other one is seriously perplexing me. Power on, hear normal noise, and low side drops and output line goes cold. Hmmmmm....

ultralo1
01-13-2009, 06:53 PM
Some valves have to be plumbed in a certain direction, check for directional arrows.

Is this one that your hired help brazed in? It should have been wet ragged atleast. It is better to disassemble them (if able) and braze, then reassemble.

There is also a possiblity that there maybe some leakage current going to the coil and causing it to open, Pull the coil and see if it still leaks.

ultralo1
01-13-2009, 06:57 PM
A little solenoid trick, get a strong magnet. Remove coil, use magnet to open and close valve. Just apply magnet ovet the top of the "stem" where the coil was.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 07:03 PM
I did this one a long while back. And this one valve seems to be my trouble spot. It's not a huge trouble, but I'd hate to have to constantly power a hot gas bypass.
And its all plummbed in the right way as well.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 07:14 PM
Belay that,
Plugging in that "proper" valve makes the low side pressure rise, the high drop, which would be evidence of a new "lack of restriction" present, aka the bypass. However, was thinking about it, and plugged valve in. Now pressures did just what I said. However, the evap immediately ices up, considering this valve removes gas that would be heading to evap, this would point to the fact that this valve is ALSO pulling an NO right now. Now I'm confused? Hahahaha.... Wow.

wdrzal
01-13-2009, 10:32 PM
Or the pressure you running is over the MOPD of the vave.In this case it also won't open.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 10:42 PM
However i'm not ;) And it's doing the opposite behavior of what it should be doing. I have to power the damn thing to keep it closed.

wdrzal
01-13-2009, 11:21 PM
That is a N/O valve then.

n00b 0f l337
01-13-2009, 11:52 PM
However the other two, exact same one, exact same model. Are definitly NC.

mytekcontrols
01-14-2009, 08:05 AM
However the other two, exact same one, exact same model. Are definitly NC.
Highly unlikely that the same model number valve would be N.O. in one case, and N.C. in another. So at least one of them must be broken (or stuck). Logic would dictate that if 2 of them are N.C. valves, then the one that appears to be N.O. is probably the broken one.

teyber
01-14-2009, 08:06 AM
However the other two, exact same one, exact same model. Are definitly NC.


Or the pressure you running is over the MOPD of the vave.In this case it also won't open.

you said you didn't run over the MOPD of the NO one, but did you with the nc ones?

n00b 0f l337
01-14-2009, 12:01 PM
Right but how does one "break"?
They're all exposed to the same pressure. Yet unpowered one is definitly open, and requires me to power it in order to be closed.

mytekcontrols
01-14-2009, 05:10 PM
What I meant by "break" was that something got stuck and jammed it open. However if you say you can energize it and get it close, then it must be a N.O. valve. As to how it got the same model number as the other N.C. valves beats me. Perhaps it was a Monday after a tough weekend of partying for the guy who puts these things together at the factory :D.

n00b 0f l337
01-14-2009, 06:16 PM
Looks the exact same though and the entire model series doesn't have an option for a NO in this style. Damn this is confusing :P