what sorta WC setups u all got....

[mrbios]

to cope with your TEC's? have any of you got just a normal WC setup with out it being chilled or whateva it is?

im getting my 1st water setup next week and wnat to add NB and GFX pelts at a later date

got any advise for me? and what setups ur using?

thanks

[KnightElite]

Yeah, I do. You can see what it used to look like (currently dismantled) at http://homepage.usask.ca/~kdh349/


Welcome to XS :toast:

[mrbios]

what parts you using there?

im gona take a guess say wether i get it right :) .... ehiem 1250 pump? 2x D-tek heatercores, block is obveous cause it says,

that right? (wild guess)

:toast: was told u guys are some of the best TEC coolers in the world is that right? :)

[chris4521]

hey knight,
had a look at your page with your tec setup.
what kinda PSU is that (for the tec)
btw, the setup looks nice, good work!

[Jabo]

Originally posted by mrbios
to cope with your TEC's? have any of you got just a normal WC setup with out it being chilled or whateva it is?

im getting my 1st water setup next week and wnat to add NB and GFX pelts at a later date

got any advise for me? and what setups ur using?

thanks

To make your WC setup upgradeable to TEC system in future what you eed to do is simply make sure your setup has sufcient BTU capacity (rads large enough or smaller rads but stronger -noiser - fans). Also strong pumps benefit TEC systems graet deal since TEC blocks dump much more heat through bocks into water than regular WC and the faster 'cooled' water can be delivered over block's inner heat exchange plate the better.

The other side of the story is condensation proofing. You may start doing it before you get your TEC installed.
Cover your mobo and all cards with conformal coating (check out this (http://rswww.com/cgi-bin/bv/search/SearchDisplay.jsp?BV_SessionID=%40%40%40%401312035 562.1066922266%40%40%40%40&BV_EngineID=ccccadcjjmejgmmcfngcfkmdgkldfhf.0&SearchType=quick&viewType=images&SearchText=conformal+coating&quickSubmit=Go) page). Inthis way even if there worst thing happens and one of your pipes got disconnected while system running you have very good chance of system surviving it.
Just make sure you cover all connectors,jumpers, switches sockets and things like mosfets and south bridge (any SURFACE emitting heat,) with maskingtape befor you start spraying. Do it on all sides of your mobo/cards.

Hope it helps :)

[Jabo]

Welcome mrbios to xtreme :)

Yes we are the best ;) :) LOL!

[KnightElite]

Originally posted by mrbios
what parts you using there?

im gona take a guess say wether i get it right :) .... ehiem 1250 pump? 2x D-tek heatercores, block is obveous cause it says,

that right? (wild guess)

:toast: was told u guys are some of the best TEC coolers in the world is that right? :)

Eheim 1250, MCW462-UH with TEC add-on and 156W TEC. I now have a 226W TEC I have upgraded it with, but I haven't installed it yet (/me is lazy ;)). The heatercores are actually 1973 Chevrolet Blazer heatercores, I think. They are about twice as big as the D-Tek cores.

The TEC power supply is an SEC 1223, 13.8V, 23A power supply. The fans on the radiators are Comair Rotron 172mm MajorDC fans, 235CFM at 12V. I was running them at 6.9V (in series from the SEC 1223).

chris4521: Thanks :banana:

[Stang_Man]

i have water hovering around freezing (0-3C), running through a Dtek TC-4 Rev2 for cpu and mcw50-t for gpu.

here are some pics (http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/krzysztof1659@sbcglobal.net/lst?.dir=/My+Computer/3dmark03+-+6217&.src=ph&.order=&.view=t&.done=http%3a//f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/) , sorry for the quality

[zippyc]

Hey Stang,

What are you using to chill the water down to freezing, and does it stay there under load?

Also the pics I saw linked had no insulation on the hoses, were you perhaps talking about CPU temps, not water temps?

[mdzcpa]

Here'e a link to a detailed article I wrote about upgrading a Swiftech Quiet Power for TEC duty (http://liquidninjas.com/reviews.php?op=showcontent&id=20&title=Swiftech%20Quiet%20Power%20Thermo%20Electric %20Cooling%20Upgrade)

Great results with no chiller. Yes, using a chiller would indeed be helpful, but it's got enough cooling to take my 3ghz P4 to 4Ghz. And it's 100% turn key and portable (it's been to many a LAN party).

[Stang_Man]

i'm using a 7,5k btu A/C chilling the water.


i am not using insulation, cause i really dont need, as if i dont touch the hoses, no water will drip.


the water itself is around freezing, not the processor.

this A/C is very old and inefficient. any 7,5k btu a/c would be able to bring you negative temperatures no problem

[zippyc]

Your pics were loading slow last night so I did not see the Igloo.

I C now....:up:

I'll be doing something similar, been really busy though.

My AC chiller will provide cold water to the outside two of three large pelt blocks sandwitched between about 1000w of switchable pelts. Resulting the center block taking supercold via seperate block and pump to GPU, CPU (LRWW), and NB. Insulation will be required.

It'll be a bit larger than yours, probably 10-12K btu.

And my design is not NEARLY as efficient as your setup, if one can call a pelt setup efficient....mine will make the meter propeller.

With winter coming up I'm simply opening the windows in the room that contains my radiators for a nice 10 to 20C drop...hard to get much of that in Austin right now though...we had a 90F halloween.

[sandman]

Got a question while on the subjeect. Is one D-tek pro-core enough rad for a 226watt on cpu, and 80watt on gpu. this is with an 80cfm fan.....If not, think I should get another one for the front of my case?

[zippyc]

A second heater core will definately improve your temps, maybe by as much as 10-15C.

I reccomend using a pump with at least ten feet of head and a series configuration for the radiators and a parallel configuration for the GPU and CPU TEC's.

If you have a lesser pump, you may get better results with exactly the reverse.

Try it both ways to make sure you are using the best routing before "nailing it in". And there are so many variables to consider on each rig it is always best to try a couple of different routings....you may be surprised by the results.

[Jabo]

Originally posted by zippyc
Your pics were loading slow last night so I did not see the Igloo.

I C now....:up:

I'll be doing something similar, been really busy though.

My AC chiller will provide cold water to the outside two of three large pelt blocks sandwitched between about 1000w of switchable pelts. Resulting the center block taking supercold via seperate block and pump to GPU, CPU (LRWW), and NB. Insulation will be required.



Hmmm, I am not sure i got the picture...
1000watts of pelts? How many units and of what Qmax?

So you'll be using petls to cool water down for your cpu and these pelts will be cooled by your chiller? Is your CPU going to be TEC'ed too?




As far as I tested parallel blocks setup iit was absolutely terrible. You'd need flow meters and valves to balance flow in such a setup and it'd be still much worse than serial - blocks ALWAYS give better CPU/GPU/NB temps with more flow (coolant velocity). Parallel setup will kill it stone dead.
Imo rads in parallel will give you lower coolan't temps - it was all pretty much disected in this longish thread about parallel v. serial setups.

[zippyc]

The concensus of that thread is that all things being equal, faster flow is better for cooling at the block level and the radiator level. And with a big enough pump Series rads are better than Parallel.

Problem is smaller pumps cannot always overcome the restrictions a series configuration.

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=21107


Basically, if your pump has a low head, and if your pump cannot overcome multiple restrictions a lower restriction setup may actually work better. That is why I reccomend trying both ways.

Especially if your GPU and Northy blocks are 3/8 ID and everyone else is 1/2 ID.

Same pump, same radiators, I got better cooling from a parallel setup through a custom 4-way manifold, with two routed to the CPU WW Block, one routed to NB, and another to the GPU, than I did going strictly series (CPU to GPU to NB).

If I forced all the flow through the CPU block first (and if it did not have two outlets like the WW), and then through two 3/8 ID devices like the CPU and GPU in series, the constriction of the smaller fittings in series would slow flow too much (with many pumps), resulting in much lower flow at the CPU block level, and then you also have hotter and hotter water going to the GPU and NB.

Currently I am using a a hybrid series then parallel block setup with 1/2 ID to the WW on the CPU, then with one WW outlet directed to the GPU and the other to the NB. This maintains 100 Pct flow through the GPU, and provides two 3/8 ID exits to the next two blocks (with two exits and split flow there is not as much of a bottleneck at the 3/8 ID blocks) . This is the most efficient method I have seen using the WW.

My rads are in series...cools better. But I have a monster pump.

As for the pelts I have a bunch, like 3x 226, 2, x 172w, and several 80's. All 14-16V.

Perhaps this thread will help....it shows the blue anodized blocks I used for a three pelt sandwich, and towards the bottom of the thread you will see the copper blocks that will accomodate six peltiers on the center block....

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=12255

I'm starting with the pelts as my cihiller, then I need to make the decision wheter to invest in the AC or the GPU and CPU TEC's next.

Eventually I want to use all three cooling methods in a stacked configuration ... IE: AC Chiller cools Pelt Sandwich, pelt sandwich cools hot sides of CPU and GPU tecs when I add em....

Not efficient but I expect killer results.