Hows about this for an evap !

[migginz]

Stick a copper top on it think it could be a winner !


http://homepage.ntlworld.com/lee.nagle/newblock.jpg

[]JR[]

wtf did that come from?

]JR[

[charlie]

It looks like all the "knobs" are threaded, screwing into threaded holes in the base...
C

[Marci]

It also looks like a rendered job slightly, but I could be wrong.... lol!

Certainly looks impressive but would the refrigerant not be better coming in lower into the block than that, rather than at the top of the screw threads...

[bowman1964]

nice block/:toast:

looks like a roughing end mill was used,it will give those ridges on the walls,but the center posts apear to be brass and screwed in to the block.or pressed in

very nice:toast:

[migginz]

Its all copper, including the screws which are brazed in !

[migginz]

more surface area on the pins Right above the CPU core for more resistance and turbulence and obviously heat dissipation.

I didnt do it but you will be able to buy them soon.

[ellsworth]

the refrigerant enters in the middle, and exits where? the 2 sides? i guess you could make the suction exit at 2 places but that would be a pain for mounting. a good design but that looks more like a water block imo.

[migginz]

it is, refrigerant will enter bottom and get sucked out of top when its mounted on the motherboard

[ellsworth]

the reason why i say it looks like a waterblock is becasue of the finned sides made for wall wetting and higher turbulance. refrigerant doesn't act like water does in cooling in many aspects. the refrigerant doesnt cool by flowing like water does, it cools by evaporation. of course it needs to flow so that the heat is transfered evenly in itself, but more importantly even evaporation along the heatsource. if your design is propped up in a normal computer case, sideways, the refrigerant will pool on one of the side sections and sit and transfer the heat from the copper top and the half of the base (the bottom half where it is pooled). this block would definately work better lieing flat so that the heat is removed from the base by selectively pooling the refrigerant at the heatsource.

[migginz]

its not my design BUT if what you say is the case how do all these other evaps work when mounted in a tower ?

[bowman1964]

well the only downfall i see is going to be insulating it.because of the size.unless you put it into a vacuum case(like dabit) it will be nearly impossable to insulate it and still be able to mount it without it hitting and board componates.
unless the evap is smaller in the pic that what it looks like.

this is why none of mine or bakers designs are made in this size.
40mm x 40mm or round is about the only size you can use and still insulate it properly to prevent condensation.

[migginz]

it has a mounting clip its actually no wider than the socket lugs.

If I were to get this block and use It I was going to make a box for it and fill it with insulation foam like I think I saw you do in one of your projects.

[bowman1964]

what are the specs on the block size wise.
because it looks to be wider than 40mm.and if is it will extrreemely hard to insulate

[migginz]

hmm its dimesions are : 78mm x 56mm x 87mm

[bowman1964]

Let me give you a idea of what it will take to make a fully insulated cover to prevent insulation.
it will require at least 15mm around all sides of foam to reduce the temp enough to stop condensation,you take a 40mmx40mm and add 30mm you get 70mm square ,and that is very tight to get on a amd board as it is.that is why i make mine tall.you have lots of room longer than you do wider.

[charlie]

Dabit's case is airtight, and the interior is dried with a dessicant IIRC, a true vacuum sealed case would be VERY interesting, links anyone?
C

[migginz]

so It'd be a wee bit hard to stick on an 8rda+ then !

This is the whole watercooling kit.

http://www.wayvet.com/bianhao13.htm

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by migginz
hmm its dimesions are : 78mm x 56mm x 87mm

well you may can insulate it for a intell board,but i think even that isnt going to work too well.it is too large.to have the insualtion around it.

i know no one thinks about insulating it untill it is too late.but that has to be the #1 thing you consider when you design it.

one drop of condesation and a $200 board is toast

[bowman1964]

if you can wait until tonight i will post some pics of a 8rda and a nf7 with a evap mounted and insulated to show you how close it is to mount one.
but please if i forget..pm me

[migginz]

cool, that'd be good thanx!

[charlie]

Bowman,
I've discovered the key to mobo condensation with my dry ice rig... I take the mobo and I open a can of Star Brite Liquid Electrical Tape and I du mp the WHOLE can on the PCB near the socket, using the attached brush i spread it over the board ensuring that all IC's resistors and ESPECIALLY capacitors are coated. Water going under a cap is where 99% of all mobo's are fried. After spreading 2-3mm of this stuff all over (I don't actually use it near the PCI slots, BIOS or RAID controller...
Works for me...
C

[charlie]

Yeah, yeah I know...everyone cringes and rolls their eyes! Heres how I killed my first P4C800-e on my first noobish dry ice rig, the last time I ran it, with the new insulated tube and treated mobo, no probs...and the pcn had a LOT of ICE on it :D

Condensation gets HERE (see pic) and yer board is DONE

[bowman1964]

Charlie...that works great,as i have the same stuff,even some better stuff.
but.....one thing i try and always look at is tommorow.

now what happens when the board dies,not by condesation but just really dies...defective...

you are out of luck RMA'ing the board.with all the coating on it.

but with proper insulation and proper designing.you can always RMA a board and it will look like the day you recieved it.even my volt mods i do as i can remove them without and visable damage.

it is just i believe in the total package.fully designed out as best i can to think of every possable configuation problem..

[charlie]

Yeah,
True...
My worst dream is to pull a new shiny SK8N (or SK8V or K8NNXP) out of a box....water proof the heck out of it.... and then discover it has a bad voltage regulator or something...lol
So I always run my stuff on AIR for a while to make sure it works well. I'd really like to try that Liquid Rubber stuff they use on the grips of tools, it looks like it could be peeled off if need arises!
But I agree, designing a mount/system that doesn't need such heavy handed measures is the best strategy!
C

[migginz]

this 8rda is modded beyond RMA so I dont mind the spraying ! where can I get it in the uk is my next problem.

[Nookie420]

great stuff. my 8rda+ is modded beyond rma also, kinda sucks cause i mighty been able to sucker epox out of a rev 2.0