New Guy - One Loop - Build has begun....

[Armstrong57]

Hey all, I've been lurking around for a week or so as I just ordered my first water cooling setup [insert plug for Linus over at NCIX :cool:]. As this is my first setup I tried to keep it fairly simple, but I want to make sure that the components are good enough to run as intended, or if I will need to run two loops instead of just one. I plan on splitting it into two loops in the future when I can afford the parts, but I'm hoping this stuff will work for getting started.

Case: Antec 1200
PSU: Antec Truepower Quattro 850W
CPU: Intel E8500
Mobo: Asus Striker II Formula
RAM: 8GB OCZ DDR2-800
Vid: BFG Geforce GTX260 Maxcore (216) OCX

The WC parts:

Pump: Swiftech MCP655
Rad: Feser X360
Res: EK Res250 w/ Anti-cyclone insert
CPU: Swiftech Apogee GTZ
N/B: MIPS
Vid: Koolance VID-428 full cover


If the WC parts aren't up to the task, I could hold off on putting the NB into the loop and wait until I get more parts. I eventually want to run the CPU on its own and have the VideoCard and NB in a second loop.

I appreciate any insight/advice that anyone might have, and look forward to joining the WC group! My system components are arriving today and the WC gear should be here in another couple days.

Thanks!

[hotdun]

Nice job picking out components. :up: I think you'll have pretty good flow with that setup but even better flow with a Fuzion V2. Since you're heading in the direction of CPU only loop, I'd say you're looking good with what you've got. :up:

[Armstrong57]

Thanks dun!

I'll be running this setup for a while, but eventually yes, I'd like to do a CPU loop and GPU/NB loop once I can get another pump and rad. I'm looking forward to getting the components in so I can at least mock things up in the case and work out the best placement. My biggest concern right now is radiator placement, which I'll have to work out once the parts are in.

[zlojack]

Just make sure you don't mix aluminum/steel and copper in the same loop. Check to make sure the stoppers on the Koolance block are not steel.

[Armstrong57]

The Koolance block is listed as "a full nickel-plated solid copper cooler", but on the Koolance site it lists Steel in the Materials section. So I'm wondering if that would be the stoppers or maybe the mounting screws or something. I'll be sure to take a look when the part comes in. If the plugs are steel, I'll make sure I get some Delrin plugs from DD to replace them. Thanks for the heads-up!


Edit: Posted on the Koolance website to get a direct answer about Steel components on the block.

[zlojack]

No problem.

CyberDruid made a good recommendation, which is to check them with a magnet.

[Armstrong57]

Got this reply on the Koolance forum today:

Dean"]The steel is the cover on the acrylic, the steel does not come in contact with liquid.

Great news! :)

[zlojack]

Got this reply on the Koolance forum today:



Great news! :)

Check the plugs anyway. Don't trust their answer.

http://www.overclock.net/4642659-post535.html

[Snyxxx]

Watercooling is like your first house. It gives you a better idea of what you want in the 2nd house. :D

You have got a good start. As you build and experiment you will learn and then make your own decisions for the next system or 2nd loop.

[Quad-Damage]

I have a similar setup you will love it

[BreeSpree]

Watercooling is like your first house. It gives you a better idea of what you want in the 2nd house. :D

You have got a good start. As you build and experiment you will learn and then make your own decisions for the next system or 2nd loop.

Wow, I never thought of it that way, but it's so true.:D At first I wanted a large house with lots of rooms. (Lots of blocks) After I got deep into watercooling I realized all I wanted a smaller house with nicer rooms and really nice hallways and doors. (Only a few blocks, Tygon tubing, compressions) What a great analogy. :up:

[evilsponge]

Agreed my first loop was the same

-sponge

[Armstrong57]

Awaiting Koolance's reply about the plugs being made of ferrous material. I'm going to replace them with Delrin plugs anyways, but it'll be interesting to see what their reply is.

[Conumdrum]

Armstrong 57! I welcome you to XS. Someone who has done thier homework and knows whats involved. I'm proud of you, and hope to hear how it goes. Pics and build logs are always appreciated.

What a fresh idea, think before you leap, he has WC genes from XS birth!

And Unobtanuim plugs are the thing now-a-days.

[Armstrong57]

Now you're just messing with me! :p:

[Conumdrum]

Now you're just messing with me! :p:

Darn, your smarter than I look.............

Look at the DD 260 block? Awesome flow rates, I use em, but not the most popular here, dunno why. Anyway, best of luck.

[fox3]

You might have trouble fitting that rad in a 1200 w/ out losing too many drive bays. I flirted with that or using a pa160.1 under the top fan. I am interested in how you solve this as I decided on an external rad placement with that case.

[Armstrong57]

I was looking around in my case last night for rad placement ideas, but without the actual rad in my hands it was tough to see what could and couldn't work. I'd like to put it in the front of the case where the HDD bays are (I only run one HDD, so I'm not too worried about losing the bays), which would involve some cutting, but my concern there would be the width of the rad.

The WC parts come in today, so once I get home from work I'll have a much better idea of what will and won't work. I'll be sure to keep you updated :)

[Armstrong57]

Look at the DD 260 block? Awesome flow rates, I use em, but not the most popular here, dunno why. Anyway, best of luck.

I was originally going to get the TIETON, but I chose to go with the Koolance because it came with a backplate and is easily SLI'able (:confused:) if I choose to get another 260 at some point.

...at least I guess that's why I did it. Deep down, subconsciously it's probably the fact that Koolance is an underdog around here and I tend to go for the underdogs :cool: haha

[dopestuff]

the rad should fit the front pretty easily (even whit a meched 5 1/2" bay covver)

Dimensions: 411mm(L) x 123mm(W) x 62mm(H) (rad dimensions)
and a 5 1/2" bay is 5.5 times 2.54 = 13.97 cm = 139,7mm

139,7 - 123 = 16,7 mm left for the bay covver and other stuff :up:

you are gonna lose 10 bays "high" though so you would only have 2 left (1 for dvd and 1 for hdd?? )
but don't worry it will fit (if all dimensions are right) :ROTF:

[RandomSuffix]

Well, since I'm planning my first system out at the moment too, would you mind if I asked for advice too?

I'm going to be cooling an E6600, hopefully OCed, and a 8800GTX. I'm planning on picking the Apogee Drive, the D-Tek FuZion 2 GFX (+ Uni-Sink), with a MCR320 cooled by 3 Yate Loons. My main concern really was the rad, I don't want to go for the Thermochill PA120.3 as the mount holes wouldn't line up - But the Feser *would*. Is it worth paying the extra for the Feser over the MCR, or would there not be a huge difference?

I'm asking really because I'll be using low RPM fans, and want to get the Rad that'll best suite.

[Armstrong57]

Build has begun. I really underestimated the time that goes into it. I'm used to building air setups that take less than an hour and it's good to go. After leak testing all of the components I started looking at how I was going to do things. Of course I'm doing things the hard way - instead of an external rear-mount for the rad I chose to modify my HDD cages at the front of my Antec 1200 to fit the rad in there. I managed to get it in, but space for everything else has been incredibly minimized.

Also, I won't be running the MIPS NB block, as the heatsinks and heatpipes for the SB, NB, and MOSFETS on my Asus Striker II Formula are all connected together, and I didn't want to start chopping things up - it works out well because with the minimal space and running only one loop, I'm totally comfortable running just a CPU/GPU loop and putting an air cooler on the NB.

Build log to come later on, I'll keep you updated :)