Water Chillers

[leathal]

What do you guys think about this product?

http://www.marinedepot.com/ps_ViewItem~idProduct~CU02635.html

Do you think if I had two koolance 5.25" pump systems (22PSI each) that I could keep the flow rate to the 7-12gpm spec?

Thanks
Leathal

[roofsniper]

putting two of the same pump in series doesn't have a large effect on the gpm.

[MasterOfTheReal]

Any opinoins on some of the smaller aquarium systems on weather they'd be on any use in a traditional loop?

[leathal]

Any opinoins on some of the smaller aquarium systems on weather they'd be on any use in a traditional loop?

I don't get your question!

Leathal

[roofsniper]

hes asking if a small aquarium pump would be good in a computer watercooled system.

[leathal]

hes asking if a small aquarium pump would be good in a computer watercooled system.

No idea but I would probably use the computer ones to pump the fluid through the chiller which I would sit beside the case on the outside and drill two holes and run tubbing inside since I doubt I will be able to put the chiller inside the case and have room for hard drives etc. :)

LEathal

[Aphex_Tom_9]

just a few years ago, it was mainly just aquarium pumps being used in watercooling. decent sized ones though.

[leathal]

just a few years ago, it was mainly just aquarium pumps being used in watercooling. decent sized ones though.

I am sure a lot has changed since then, I am sure a 1400 BTU pump would be able to keep up with the demands for cooler temps.

Leathal

[MasterOfTheReal]

Sorry should have phrased it better.
I was looking at some of the smaller in tank waterchiller systems, smaller ones that bring the tank temp to within a few degrees of ambient.
I was wondering in the larger cases that we have available nowadays (v2000 etc) wether it would be feasable to create an in-case chiller system on a smaller scale that would chill but keep temps above ambient thus negating the need for insulation.
Ill look for some links to the systems I've seen in my local aquarioum supplies store.

[leathal]

Sorry should have phrased it better.
I was looking at some of the smaller in tank waterchiller systems, smaller ones that bring the tank temp to within a few degrees of ambient.
I was wondering in the larger cases that we have available nowadays (v2000 etc) wether it would be feasable to create an in-case chiller system on a smaller scale that would chill but keep temps above ambient thus negating the need for insulation.
Ill look for some links to the systems I've seen in my local aquarioum supplies store.

I think the trick is finding out if the chillers are able to bring the temp down if the constant water flow is 21 degrees celsius and go from there.

There are a lot of smaller chillers out there now that are not compressor based that worries as I don't think they will really put a dent in the water temp but I could be wrong, that's why I trying to find out from my end as much as I can before I purchase anything.

I am also thinking of buying a water pump from an aquarium store as they can easily move more water per hour, but at the same time I am trying to figure out (and find out) if I need to move the water at a slower rate to chill it or a quicker rate. So for instance I see chillers are only 50GPH or 1.2GPM 38f to 60f that are smaller in size compressorless, and I also see ones that are slight larger with a compressor that do between 40f and 60f that move between 300GPH and 420GPH.

Leathal

[NaeKuh]

these water chillers were not ment to be cooling off the additional heat of modern processors.

The medium size ones are to keep your tank at a constant 75-80F. You guys who been in the fish hobby know this is the Prime spot for salt water.

There ment to cool off a tank to fight evap, and also the added heat of a few compact flourescents. The most light you'll have on a meidum size tank is most likely is around 2:1 ratio in wattage to volumne of water.

meaning a 20 gallon tank usually has 40W of light on it for a easy coral tank, and up to as much as 5W per gallon on hard corals.

Still any modern processor will eat 100W, and since you got 20Gallons of coolant that chiller isnt worked at all.

Put it in a computer tho, with smaller volumnes of water, and more heat source, i only see bad outcomes.

[Levish]

these water chillers were not ment to be cooling off the additional heat of modern processors.

The medium size ones are to keep your tank at a constant 75-80F. You guys who been in the fish hobby know this is the Prime spot for salt water.

There ment to cool off a tank to fight evap, and also the added heat of a few compact flourescents. The most light you'll have on a meidum size tank is most likely is around 2:1 ratio in wattage to volumne of water.

meaning a 20 gallon tank usually has 40W of light on it for a easy coral tank, and up to as much as 5W per gallon on hard corals.

Still any modern processor will eat 100W, and since you got 20Gallons of coolant that chiller isnt worked at all.

Put it in a computer tho, with smaller volumnes of water, and more heat source, i only see bad outcomes.

Could work if you leave a decent radiator in place to pre-cool the water before entering the chiller

[KaptCrunch]

1/10 hp forget about it

[leathal]

1/10 hp forget about it

Why?

[NaeKuh]

Could work if you leave a decent radiator in place to pre-cool the water before entering the chiller

No..

trust me.

You'll kil your compressor cuz your radiator will mess everything up.

Inline rads on any chiller = waste of time.