Drilling a Swiftech Micro Res for a Temp Sensor

[Zaskar]

Anyone ever drill/tap the side or bottom of a Swiftech micro res to support a temp sensor? Cant use the top fillport even if its re tapped G1/4 because its too high up, would need it filled to the brim and then after a little wile will lose contact with the water and would require much more frequent fill ups.

Looking for any info on the best way to do it, or if its even a good idea, my main concern is that because of the placement of the baffle, that the temp sensor that sticks out a bit will reduce flow (Even though its not in between the 2 barbs, and would just potentially slow down the speed at which water from the upper portion of the res gets to the lower portion where the barbs are, so probably not even a concern)

Pic of the Micro Res:
http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-65556269779593_2000_65182839

Pic of the Bitspower temp sensor:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/images/products/BP-WTP-CT_01.jpg

If it wont be a problem, whats the best location to put it?
I'm getting a G1/4 tap anyways so I can retap the top fillport (Petras is out of them) but any other advice you can give, like What size drill bit should I be using to make the initial hole before using the tap to thread it?

[evil-98]

youll need a 11.8 mm drill bit i would personally pilot a hole first

id personally think that putting the temp sensor at the lowest
point or the bottom of the res would be best, but to be honest
i bet it doesnt matter where you put it in the res as long as it
gets an adequate amount of water passing it

remember its acrylic so its not the hardest material. when you
start drilling use water to cool it, because it will heat up and
melt, and if it doesnt, it will heat up harden and crack, so be
careful. i suggest using a drill press and properly clamp down
the res before anything, and take your time.

good luck! :up:

edit:

for flow, though it maybe another thing in the way which blocks
flow, the way the barbs are arranged it wont effect it, no matter
what because the inlet and outlet will still have the same amount
of room to suck and push as much liquid as it possibly can, the
divider is only there to slow down cavitation so dont worry about
if you are put it above the divider.

[shabranigdo]

I drilled and tapped 3 for the same purpose. I made the hole in the middle of the bottom of the res. Drill slowly and use lots of lube. I used a spray silicone lubricant. A drill press is your best bet, if not you need a steady hand and go slow. I used a 3/4 forstner bit to make a slight indent for the washer then the 11.8mm bit to drill the hole. I did not drill a pilot hole, but it cannot hurt to try it that way. Do not apply alot of pressure to the drill let it slowly cut through. For tapping same thing used the silicone spray and one revolution forward then 1/4 to 1/2 rev back once the tap is started in the material. Then alot of rinsing and a long twezers to get the plastic scraps out. Don't have any pics of the res's atm or i would post them. Overall it was alot easier than I figured it would be and came out good.

[spotswood]

If it was me, I'd put it in a T-fitting on the outlet.

[b@llz0r]

Id recomend against a pilot hole... my worst hole was with a pilot hole drilled :(

Regular drill bits can bite too much causing cracking... here is a good guide to modifying your drill bit to drill Acrylic
http://www.hawkfish.org/snailman/acrdrill.htm

[jonny_ftm]

If it was me, I'd put it in a T-fitting on the outlet.

Not a so good idea on high flow loops

There are two other threads on this, one of them I started. This question raises from time to time.

I know it is out of topic, but, for people not having the necessary tools, the drills, tappers... cost a lot.

I, my self, opted for an EK res with a multifunction top/bottom. With small tricks you can mod them so you don't expierience turbulence. The EK 100 res is smaller than a mcres too

[shabranigdo]

Not a so good idea on high flow loops

There are two other threads on this, one of them I started. This question raises from time to time.

I know it is out of topic, but, for people not having the necessary tools, the drills, tappers... cost a lot.

I, my self, opted for an EK res with a multifunction top/bottom. With small tricks you can mod them so you don't expierience turbulence. The EK 100 res is smaller than a mcres too

Yeah the initial cost of the bit($10) and tap ($17) are a little more but I guess it depends on how much you think you will use it. I got them along with a block of 1" square X 12" of delrin($13). I cut that down and made my own elbow, T fitting and some custom fittings. Once you have the tap its pretty cheap and easy to make the connectors. Gotta love McMaster, they have just about everything, and I must be near one of the hubs cause I always get my order in 1 and rare occasion 2 days.

[jonny_ftm]

Yeah the initial cost of the bit($10) and tap ($17) are a little more but I guess it depends on how much you think you will use it. I got them along with a block of 1" square X 12" of delrin($13). I cut that down and made my own elbow, T fitting and some custom fittings. Once you have the tap its pretty cheap and easy to make the connectors. Gotta love McMaster, they have just about everything, and I must be near one of the hubs cause I always get my order in 1 and rare occasion 2 days.

Ohh
Here, a tap costs much much more, 3 times your 17$

[Zaskar]

Not a so good idea on high flow loops

There are two other threads on this, one of them I started. This question raises from time to time.

I know it is out of topic, but, for people not having the necessary tools, the drills, tappers... cost a lot.

I, my self, opted for an EK res with a multifunction top/bottom. With small tricks you can mod them so you don't expierience turbulence. The EK 100 res is smaller than a mcres too

Just out of curiosity howcome doing a T connector for it isn't a good idea?

Unless you don't use a spacer of some sort so that the temp sensor is partially obstructing the main tube and restricting flow :D

[lyl]

Just out of curiosity howcome doing a T connector for it isn't a good idea?

Unless you don't use a spacer of some sort so that the temp sensor is partially obstructing the main tube and restricting flow :D

I agree, as long as the end of the sensor isnt too far into the T-connector it cant be very restricive. i could be wrong

[NaeKuh]

Just out of curiosity howcome doing a T connector for it isn't a good idea?

Unless you don't use a spacer of some sort so that the temp sensor is partially obstructing the main tube and restricting flow :D

this is why im an advocate of the EK and Koolance Res's. EVen though massive cyclone, find a way to get past that, and there universal for every need you want.

[shabranigdo]

Just out of curiosity howcome doing a T connector for it isn't a good idea?

Unless you don't use a spacer of some sort so that the temp sensor is partially obstructing the main tube and restricting flow :D

Yeah that was my original plan was afraid at first to drill into my res, but the alphacool sensors are alot longer and would not even fit in a 1" delrin T it was too long, let alone it blocked the water flow. The bitspower one looks alot shorter.