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View Full Version : Question on Asus Striker II Extreme Fuzion NB block


EchoBlack4
05-17-2008, 04:31 AM
Hi all,

Do you know if the Fuzion NB block that comes with the Asus Striker II Extreme is made of copper or if it has some aluminium on it (I don't know if the top is just nickel plated or if it is made from alu)?

Also, how can you get 1/2" tubing to fit on it? Adapters? Is there any aftermarket block we can use without removing the heatpipe-heatsink stuff?

Thanks.

varrius
05-17-2008, 09:02 AM
It includes white adapters to use any size tubing. However, it looks ridiculously stupid.

You basically have these small crappy tubes, which were included, going from the block to these big white plastic adapters.

Also, it's copper and seems to have some aluminum on the top.

varrius
05-17-2008, 09:04 AM
Hi all,

Do you know if the Fuzion NB block that comes with the Asus Striker II Extreme is made of copper or if it has some aluminium on it (I don't know if the top is just nickel plated or if it is made from alu)?

Also, how can you get 1/2" tubing to fit on it? Adapters? Is there any aftermarket block we can use without removing the heatpipe-heatsink stuff?

Thanks.

I suggest using 3/8" tubing so you don't need those lame adapters.

EchoBlack4
05-18-2008, 06:28 AM
Thanks. I have found a pic of the adapters that come for the block of a Maximus Formula SE, which seems to be similar.

http://www.clunk.org.uk/images/maximus/IMG_1006.jpg

I agree, they are lame and crappy besides being total flow killers. A total :bananal::bananal::bananal:

Another surprise, it seems that the heatsink stuff, though looks like copper, isn't copper actually but copper or brass coated aluminium (???)

http://www.clunk.org.uk/forums/712-post4.html

Does anybody know how good this fusion thing performs? I think I am going to replace it for a more decent aftermarket setup unless it really performs good (which seems doubtful).

Thanks.

b@llz0r
05-18-2008, 07:08 AM
http://hardwarelogic.com/news/132/ARTICLE/3182/2008-04-28.html

crap review but it does comment on the quality of those fittings

After adding the Fusion Block System to the water cooling loop using the included parts, I could not reach a tight seal and ran into leaks on three separate attempts! Swapping out the tubing and clamps with our own solved the issue which points an angry finger at ASUS' parts.

I ordered EK blocks for my S2E, so i dont mind tearing mine apart for you guys.

the nb heatsink is not copper as previously stated... looks like alu painted copper colour

I managed to rip the water block off the alu heatsink, it seems to just be glued on, but it does look like the water block is all copper.

so you have a sandwich of copper base plate, aluminium heatsink, copper water block.

from the looks of it thermal performance will be bad due to the glue and it'll be a flow killer due to the small tubes... id be interested to see results from people who have actually used it.

EchoBlack4
05-18-2008, 10:55 AM
Thanks, this has been of great help. If it had 1/2" fittings I would give it a try (after replacing the glue crap for some Artic Silver Ceramic). Sad since the concept looked good... :shakes:

Utnorris
05-18-2008, 11:55 PM
So I have the Blitz Formula SE with the Fusion block and I have it with my D-Tek Fuzion V1 and MCW60. My pump is currently the MCP350. I use 7/16 ID Masterkleer tubing and use the kit that comes with the MB to convert from the 3/8" to the 7/16" (1/2" barbs in the kit). I ran it before as a separate loop and adding it into my current loop did not increase/hurt my temps. The bonus is that my NB temps went from 50c under load to never being above 38c under load. Now for the bad news, it has not allowed me to increase my O/C. In fact any review on the Blitz states that while it does lower the temps it won't help in the overclocking. That being said, I did read on many forums that the Blitz becomes unstable if the NB starts to go over 50c, so in that sense it does help. I only did it because I didn't want to have to replace the entire heatsink with separate heatsinks, although a lot of people do. If you go with 3/8" tubing you don't have to use the ugly conversion kit. Here are a couple of pics of mine:
Utnorris

Kurz
05-19-2008, 05:31 AM
Get a blow dryer and heat that bad boy off.
Did it with mine though You should search up on Heatsink removal in these forums.

gcardinal
05-29-2008, 08:15 AM
My system has full Aqua-Computer's Plug&Cool loop using 8mm PU tubing 8 mm/6 mm.
Is there any hope of connecting this fusion block to my loop?

Maybe its possbile to remove the fusion block and replace it with another block that fits in the same spot?
Like aftermarked fusion block for the same spot.

b@llz0r
05-29-2008, 08:27 AM
you would need to replace the fuzion block with nb mosfet and sb (or a heatsink is a popular choice) because its all linked up with heat pipes

gcardinal
05-29-2008, 09:24 AM
Yes, but why not just replace Fusion block? It will be much cheaper an faster solution.

http://www.pvxbuilds.com/water.jpg

bigslappy
05-29-2008, 09:47 AM
rip it all off & water that BadBoy down u'll be happy in the long run !

gcardinal
05-29-2008, 09:53 AM
Yes, but I still think that replacing only the fusion block it self will be MUCH cheaper and faster solution. Specially with popularity of this MB - I think its not that bad idea and there will be people who will replace Fusion block.

Regardless what people reported this block can't leak. Its solid. Lock on the top - is just a fusion plate without any function.

Demensions of the Fusion block is: 36 x 36 mm

http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/1.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/3.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/4.jpg
http://www.pvxbuilds.com/AsusSIIE/7.jpg

b@llz0r
05-29-2008, 07:38 PM
its pretty hard to get off mate... I had to distroy mine to get it off. Those two little screws do nothing... the block is superglued to the heatsink.

Sadasius
05-31-2008, 07:02 AM
its pretty hard to get off mate... I had to distroy mine to get it off. Those two little screws do nothing... the block is superglued to the heatsink.

Use a hair dryer on high setting. Heat up the back of the board. Use a flat screw driver and do just a little twist and off it come without any damage at all. Took mine off with ease. Without the heat I would have destroyed the board trying to take it off. They used two different pastes. The grey stuff that seemed to be pre-applied to the blocks and white stuff on top of that. Makes it like glue or heck perhaps it is glue.

Fusion2002
08-18-2008, 01:35 AM
Any other tips for removing the fusion block? I tried heating the block, I cant get a screw driver under it. I also tried some blunt force with a block of wood and a hammer after heating it up and it still wont budge.

hotdun
08-18-2008, 02:14 AM
...Now for the bad news, it has not allowed me to increase my O/C. In fact any review on the Blitz states that while it does lower the temps it won't help in the overclocking...

Hey Utnorris, try bumping up the VTT and NB Voltages. Temperature is usually not the restraint, rather lack of power to the components. As long as you don't get too crazy, your system will be safe....