Overclocking reboot failure

[masterg]

i just got an Arctic Cooling Freezer 7 Pro for my E6400 cpu. installed it using MX-2 thermal paste worked fine.

i turned it on and went into setup and tried out the cooler by pushing my FSB from 266mhz to 351 mhz. it did work and it did boot into windows and everything was fine got a few pictures:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a269/Masterg_/cpuz.jpg

it said the CPU was only @ 36 C in the bios setup so i restarted it, took it to 360mhz and saved and it got stuck at the logo screen. i figured it failed:rolleyes: so cleared cmos and put it back to 351mhz. i tried to boot and even 351mhz wouldnt post now.

a few things seem wrong to me in this picture. did i damage the cpu by going to 360mhz and that is why 351mhz wont even work now? and if the cpu is only 36C surely its not overheating by such a small number?

Also, my motherboard is only rated at 1066mhz fsb so why when i increase the cpu, does cpu-z read it at 1405mhz?

[TV Addict#2]

thats good idle temperature,your cpu probably just needs the vcore bumped up a notch to be stable
you could get realtemp and coretemp,two good free programs to monitor your cpu temperatures than run occt,a good stress testing tool to put full load

that value indicates you are in an over clocked bus speed range

different opinions but low 70's for a safe air cooled full loaded temp

[masterg]

i tried changing the voltages and rebooted and the multiplier dropped from 8 to 6 and its not going back.

also upon restarting i was getting BSoD's that lasted .5sec then restarted computer. upon succesfull startup windows says a hardware error is causing some sort of failure

im watching cpu-z and the multiplier is @ 6x and every 2minutes will switch to 8x for 2sec then go back to 6x

[masterg]

apparently there was a recent bios update to fix which multiplier to choose 6-8. updated and ran, i selected 8x but cpu-z still shows that its running at 6x and occasionally 8x. is this because its not getting enough voltage? because i see the core voltage also fluxuating wildy (1.136-1.152-1.296)

[xMrBunglex]

i suggest reading. this forum has tutorials and FAQs to help new overclockers. your multiplier is dropping because of something called C1E, which is just doing its job. you can disable it in your BIOS if it bothers you, but it's designed to help your CPU run cooler at idle and use less energy.

to run a 350 FSB with that CPU and mobo, you're probably going to have to raise the vCore, vFSB, and vMCH up from stock a bit. i'd think 400 FSB should be your minimum goal, but you'll really want to do some homework before you start changing values you don't understand. also, download Orthos and make sure you run it for at least eight hours when you want to test for stability. just because you can boot into Windows doesn't mean your OC is stable.

welcome to the club and have fun.

[masterg]

the first boot was completely stable, not just by booting to windows. i was playing final fantasy xi, i did testing and i went out shopping for 4hours and was still running when i got back. it was completely stable @ 2.80998ghz for about 7 hours til i rebooted

[ExodusC]

apparently there was a recent bios update to fix which multiplier to choose 6-8. updated and ran, i selected 8x but cpu-z still shows that its running at 6x and occasionally 8x. is this because its not getting enough voltage? because i see the core voltage also fluxuating wildy (1.136-1.152-1.296)
Do you have Intel SpeedStep disabled? Correct me if I'm wrong, but SpeedStep will lower your multiplier/voltage when the system is idle, and turn it back up when under load. Most people just turn it off in the BIOS because it sometimes helps with stability.


different opinions but low 70's for a safe air cooled full loaded temp
I've had my Q6600 hitting 99C under load on all cores.

It's probably not safe, but I wouldn't mind it dying so I can RMA it and hopefully get a G0. ;)

[masterg]

do you mean SPeed Spectrum? if so that is already disabled

[eternaljammer]

i suggest reading. this forum has tutorials and FAQs to help new overclockers. your multiplier is dropping because of something called C1E, which is just doing its job. you can disable it in your BIOS if it bothers you, but it's designed to help your CPU run cooler at idle and use less energy.

to run a 350 FSB with that CPU and mobo, you're probably going to have to raise the vCore, vFSB, and vMCH up from stock a bit. i'd think 400 FSB should be your minimum goal, but you'll really want to do some homework before you start changing values you don't understand. also, download Orthos and make sure you run it for at least eight hours when you want to test for stability. just because you can boot into Windows doesn't mean your OC is stable.

welcome to the club and have fun.

Yes, make sure C1E, and EIST are disabled. They will cause your multiplier to lower when idle.

[masterg]

how do i disable the eist? i dont see it in my bios

[xMrBunglex]

EIST is also called Intel Speed Step Technology. the other option is C1E. you want them both disabled if you don't want your multi dropping when idle. i've never owned a DFI board, but i imagine those two options are in your BIOS, clearly marked.

playing a video game for four hours does not count as a stability test. download Orthos and run it for a minimum of eight hours if you want to make sure you're stable. i always start by running Memtest off a boot disc, then running Orthos if i can pass Memtest with no errors. your computer can appear to be fine for months and then you'll wake up one day to find your OS has been corrupted by a bad overclock. do it right the first time.

[masterg]

the bios on my board does not match what the manual says is in the bios settings, but neither show EIST.

[masterg]

is it possible that a type of EIST is labeled as Frequency Unlimit? when that is enabled, CIE is unabled to be changed but disabled nonetheless