View Full Version : Mach1 cap tube length????
Hey. When I changed my fans in prom I noticed the cap tube only being about 5 to 6 inches long. My vapo has much more...
Hmm. What about that??? :confused:
Did chip-com forget putting in a longer cap tubing? No. Sounds silly, doesn't it :rolleyes: ?
The Capillary tubing is wrapped around the hose.
Originally posted by bmg
The Capillary tubing is wrapped around the hose.
Oh :eek:
I think I saw some pics with it being like on the vapo... :confused: I mean those pics were from chip-con.
Yep it's wrapped round and round....
Oh LORD :D
Thx for confirming this. I wonder how to add some???
When changing to 404a do they add cap tubing to the little loop or do a/c men have to add it wrapped too. Silly question, heh :rolleyes: ?
Not that I am planning this but maybe this year after being up to date a little more :)
Gary Lloyd
08-22-2003, 05:53 AM
It is better to completely replace the cap tube than to add to it, but extremely difficult to do on a prommie since part of the cap tube is inside the evaporator.
Originally posted by SAE
Oh LORD :D
Thx for confirming this. I wonder how to add some???
When changing to 404a do they add cap tubing to the little loop or do a/c men have to add it wrapped too. Silly question, heh :rolleyes: ?
Not that I am planning this but maybe this year after being up to date a little more :)
It's not recommended but yes there is a way to add it. It still works well on a Prommie. Easiest way is adding some to the loop just after it and before the Dryer. Leave some length away from the Dryer so as to minimise damaging the dessicant.
An AC guy should easily be able to add some for you.
Hmm. Gary, I thought only if the hose is broken directly behind or on the cooling head it has to be completely replaced. IMO Bowman did this with Opp's prom...
Sure, Bowman knows how to add. Or I 've got it wrong when he said to add capillary tubing :confused:
Thx LORD.
That is what I wanted to hear :D
With this small ID the cap tubing is really hard to solder/braze (or what it's called here) IMO :)
Gary Lloyd
08-22-2003, 06:48 AM
Yes, it can be done. Replacement is better.
Gary Lloyd
08-22-2003, 06:59 AM
Keep in mind what the goal is. In almost all refrigeration systems, the goal is to maximize capacity for a given temperature. We want to pull down to that temperature quickly and shut off.
Here the goal is lowest possible temperature for a given capacity. That changes everything. We want to squeeze every last degree out of the system. Fine tuning is everything.
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
Keep in mind what the goal is. In almost all refrigeration systems, the goal is to maximize capacity for a given temperature. We want to pull down to that temperature quickly and shut off.
Here the goal is lowest possible temperature for a given capacity. That changes everything. We want to squeeze every last degree out of the system. Fine tuning is everything.
Hmm. I think the a/c guy would earn a lot when finetuning the prom ;) It should take hours, shouldn't it :confused:
So afaik the exact charge for r404a can't be told because of tolerances? I know chip-con charges its units with an exact 57,5g iirc :rolleyes: (It's noted on the back prom sticker) That's why these units perform differently... heh?
bowman1964
08-22-2003, 07:39 AM
Well adding cap tube isnt too hard after you learn how to do it,but it can be very tricky.i have to hand make my unions since i havent seen a connector offered anywhere.(gary unless you have)
if you get one drop of solder wrong it is blocked.i had one a week ago drove be crazy.it seams a drop got melted when i was working on the drier and under pressure it flowed 6 inches down the tube.took be a while to find it...
i still use 95/5 solder on cap tubes because i am adjusting so much the acetyene torch from the heat can leave oxidation inside the tiny tube even with nitogen or other gas in the line,and ONE flake of trash and you have a system you will never get straight.
and although i do brase the rest of the system ,the 95/5 on such a small tube size will not leak even if the pressure rises enough to blow the main copper tube that is brased.
i have many a pic posted in my Bowmans Mod Shop thread and i have some cap tubes shown.
i am working on a small manifold on paper today to connect cap tubes for me easily without lots of trouble.
right now if you dont get the 2 tubes close to butting to each other you get a slight boiling of the gas at times at the joint.this causes bubbles in the liquid past that joint.this decreases the effectiveness of the cooling.so proper and excate joining of the 2 is so very very important,that is why replacing the entire tube is reconmended so much.
and on a prommie you can not replace the entire cap tube without unbrasing the evaperator and risk ruining the plastic cooling head.
Okayokay. I already knew it could only be done by an extraordinary genius like you are :D
But on the charge one should start you cannot comment :confused:
It's veryvery bad there is nobody like you experts here in Germany who could do any comparable work on a prom... at least afaik :(
bowman1964
08-22-2003, 08:17 AM
i know alot of people want my charge but it is never the same.i custom each unit for a given heat load.
i dont mind telling the amount, but to be honest i havent taken the time to weigh it out.
i dont have a set of scales at home.
i could bring a set from work,but to be honest me knowing the weight changes nothing on how i adjust the system's.
i may one day if i get the time do some scaling and see but right now i havent gotten a chance to.:(
SAE,
After adding the extra amount of cap tube. Let's say if you added an extra 20cm...You'll need around 60g of gas. Cause that's how much will be needed with the extra length mentioned. Less cap tube will need less gas. Longer will need more etc. The length mentioned isn't what was settled on the Prom I experimented with though.
Really the best way to tell how much is needed is to look at your temps which is why it's good to have a maximal heat load on the evaporator.
Other things to look for are icing on the suction line close to the compresor....If it show's ice forming, to much gas is in there. There are some other things that can also be an indicator of performance on the Prom and how much work the system is doing as well. It can help with cap tub length selection.
Now while the system is under load. Let small amounts out. To get the lowest temp. Once the temp drops off put more gas in.
This is why most are hesitant to say exactly the amount you will need.
Tom Holck
08-22-2003, 02:46 PM
The extra Tube lenght must bee 1.5 meter or a little more
bowman1964
08-22-2003, 03:36 PM
ok guys anytime we want to post about how long a cap tube is...please post the size.the lenght makes absoutly no differance if the size isnt stated.
i can add 6meter of one size and it will equall 1 meter of another.
Tom Holck
08-22-2003, 03:45 PM
Originally posted by bowman1964
ok guys anytime we want to post about how long a cap tube is...please post the size.the lenght makes absoutly no differance if the size isnt stated.
i can add 6meter of one size and it will equall 1 meter of another.
Right Bowman
1.5 meter more of the same dimension as standard
Looking forward to se some results from Your Triple Head Cascade cooler.
For a few month ago I asked Chip-Con to help with a mod with 2 cooling head on a Prommy, They ansered, that it don't work?!:(
:toast:
bowman1964
08-22-2003, 03:47 PM
Originally posted by Tom Holck
For a few month ago I asked Chip-Con to help with a mod with 2 cooling head on a Prommy, They ansered, that it don't work?!:(
:toast:
well i have already proved them wrong.....my twin head works great,the triple is a bit harder.
Good luck, Bowman. I will be amazed by ya temps as always ;)
Hey Tom. I read you were using a vapochill directly behind the condenser to cool refridgerant down even more... Would it also work out well with the r134a gas because I don't wanna change gas now... :confused: