Crazy voltage lines on my new Antec True Control 550

[eclypse]

I think i've made a discovery.. Theres something wrong with these Antec True Power supplies.

I'll go back and document the exact voltages on paper and report back but for now i'll tell ya what i've found.. You tell me if it makes any sense..

Well after ordering a new board from newegg last night i was still pondering what Sae was saying about my board.. that it might be still good.. So this morning i started testing everything on it with a multimeter.. testing the ohms to see if all these cooked chips were still good.. and it looks like they still are... i dont know if any traces are bad though.. So anyways the fact that that antec 550 watt TP PS had those crazy flucuating voltage lines was still bothering me.. So i was thinking lets test the new P/S (Antec True Control 550WATT) and see if there any different..

Well after taking it out of the box and jump starting it i started testing the lines to come find out that there the same... well the only really bad line is the 12V line thats all over the place from 11.5-12.17 i think.. The +5v line stayed in the in 5v area and the only thing that stayed close was the +3.3 line that held around 3.30 something to 3.41 max..

SO i was thinking heh who knows maybe it just needs a freakin pull on the line and something will kick in to make this thing stable.. so i slap on my new 120MM fan.. No difference in the voltages.. the 12v is the same.. but i noticed something that alearted me.. THe damn noise from the fan.. It was pulsating... i set the thing down on the table and it was shakin all over the place like someone was turning a light switch on and off..hmmm.. Must be that the voltage is runing all over the place.. Next thing i did was test out the pots they have on that drive bay thingy..

I maxed every line to find that it only went up a little and did nothing to stablize the voltages.. ofcourse it wouldnt hehe. But anyways.. i was kind of dissapointed in the adjustment for the +3.3 line.. It only went as high as 3.41.. Which leads me to the other part of my findings..

I have a super cheap 300 WATT ATX P/S that i never used that came with a cheap 20 dollar case.. 2 of them to be exact.. So i said lets test them to see if there lines are all over the place..

So with this one all the lines stayed still on the digital multimeter.. I'm saying they didnt budge one bit! Plus the +3.3 line was solid at 3.42v, the 12v was at 12.17 and the 5v was at 5.07 i think.. I'll retest and verify it..

So anyways i put the same damn 120MM fan on that P/S and guess what... no pulsating noise period.. just a nice solid tone.. Set it down on the table and guess what? Its still, not bouncing all over the freakin place like it was on the Antec True control 550Watt..

So this is telling me that, that damn Antec 550Watt True Power i have that i thought was bad because of a "VDD mod gone wrong" is infact a defective god damn P/S.. probably from the getgo.. Just liek this brand spanking new Antec TC 550.. Becuase infact that pin i used was only a ground... i checked again to make sure

One other thing.. Just to throw in another P/S.. I also tested my older Antec 400Watt P/S... i think the model was the 412 or something.. Anyways.. its being used in this spare computer i'm writting to you on right now.. I just tested it and guess what??? Solid voltages on the +5 and +12 lines.. i tested it from a molex connector. I even raised the +12 and +3.3 pots on it long ago and there solid freakin readings.. no movement what so ever..

So what do you think??? Is these Antec True power P/S no good? Or did i just get lucky and have 2 bad P/S's???

[Kunaak]

my antec True control 550 is a damn fine PSU, tested many times with my multimeter (a Fluke True RMS 177) and the voltages available are up to 12.5, 3.6 and 5.3.
running the 12 volt line high seems to make my northbridge temps high, but other then that, I have no issues with it :)

[Hell-Fire]

Well, I personally think that maybe ya got a bad psu or 2.

The TP line isnt geared towards giving you over spec rails, but it is geared toward solid lines at whatever voltage you are getting...I am guessing somewhere between 5-10% of spec.

I modded my TP550 so that my rails run above spec for overclocking purposes and they barely budge under pretty xtreme loads.

I didnt have time to read your full post..but I will later..THE TITLE just caught my eye as I own the same psu.

[STEvil]

Recheck the PSU at the molexes for AC voltage that may be leaking through, that would answer the pulsating fan.... and is also bad!

[eclypse]

Originally posted by STEvil
Recheck the PSU at the molexes for AC voltage that may be leaking through, that would answer the pulsating fan.... and is also bad!

K will check that shortly... After my next post.

[Shane5578]

okay i'll take the antec 550w TC off my shopping basket!

[eclypse]

After going back and checking out the P/S's and writting down the results... Here they are.


These findings are from the ATX connector.. Readings are what i seen over a short period of time.. like 30 secs.. from lowest reading to max.

Antec True Control 550WATT <--Brand new never used yet in a system.

First test= Pots maxed from the drive bay controller.

(These were rapid movement voltages)
+3.3v = 3.35- 4.41v
+5v = 5.11- 5.21v
+12v = 11.83-12.34v

Second test pots set to minimum

(These were rock stable voltages)
+3.3v = 3.21v
+5v = 4.91v
+12v = 11.62v

Third test were with the pots half way

(these moved a little bit)
+3.3v = 3.22- 3.29v
+5v = 4.94- 5.01v
+12v = 10.98- 11.72v <-- This one was rapid..All over the place.

Fourth test was with the drive bay dissconnected

(these were rock stable)
+3.3 = 2.95v
+5v = 4.59v
+12v = 11.50v


I'm going to split the tests in different post.. so i dont loose these by mistake.

[eclypse]

Now for the old Antec TP 550WATT

Results taking from the ATX connector.

(All of these lines had fast movement readings as well)

+3.3 = 3.31- 3.35v
+5.v = 4.18- 5.07v
+12v = 11.56-12.05v


Now for the PowMax 350WATT P/S

(All of these lines were dead stable)
+3.3v = 3.42v
+5v = 5.15v
+12v = 12.30v



On my Antec 400WATT 412 all the lines were dead still as well.. And that P/S has been pod modded over spec and there still dead stable readings.

[eclypse]

Now i'm no P/S expert by any means but these findings on the Antec TP and TC line dont look to good to me..

I'm hoping that someone that understands these reads can explain them and tlel me if this Antc P/S's are safe or not to use.. Cause i've had to Abit M/Bs go bad now from that Antec True Power 550WATT that i thought was just a VDD mod gone wrong but i'm thinking not.. THere was no VDD mod going on, on the new Abit board i just had yesterday that had to go back cause of the same damage found on the back of the M/B..

Now i just bought this Antec TC 550 last night and havent used it yet but i was plaining on using it to replace the bad Antec TP 550..(WEll i think its bad) with the new Abit NF7-S thats coming in the mail tomorrow.

[Hell-Fire]

Originally posted by eclypse
Now for the old Antec TP 550WATT

Results taking from the ATX connector.

(All of these lines had fast movement readings as well)

+3.3 = 3.31- 3.35v
+5.v = 4.18- 5.07v
+12v = 11.56-12.05v


Now for the PowMax 350WATT P/S

(All of these lines were dead stable)
+3.3v = 3.42v
+5v = 5.15v
+12v = 12.30v



On my Antec 400WATT 412 all the lines were dead still as well.. And that P/S has been pod modded over spec and there still dead stable readings.

Took readings from the ATX connector? You should take them from the molex connectors...the ones that plug into the drives.

Yellow --> 12v
Red --> 5v
Orange --> 3.3v (its the one thats real thin and has 5 wires to it. 3 black grounds, 2 / 3.3 orange, and 1 / 5v red.)

I usually stick paper clips into the connector (thin one) to check the 3.3v while psu is on..very easy way.

[STEvil]

I think it could be just a bad egg is all, it happens.

Check for those AC voltages, though, because they can kill stuff...

[eclypse]

WEll heres the resutls with the fan connected on the Antec TC 550.

THese were takin without the drive bay/pot thing connected since i had the most dead stable voltages without it even though the voltages are too low.

+12v = 11.50v w/o fan
+12v = 10.33 - 11.38v w/fan Also had some extreme voltage dancing going on.. :(


For the hell of it i did the same with the PowMax 350 WATT.

+12v = 12.30v w/o fan
+12 v = 12.14v w/fan Dead stable


These readings were from the same molex connector that the fan was on.. I took a reading fro mthe chain before and even after the fan connect since the fan had its own Y connect.

Once again fan smooth on the PowMax and dancing on the table with the Antec TC 550.

I also took reading from all 12v connectors from the ATX, molex down to the 12v connector.. same on the PowMax 12.30.. On the True Power TC ... heh well you know with all that dancing going on i couldnt keep track between the connectors.. I would have to be "Rainman" or something to keep track.

:p:

[eclypse]

Welp if its true that this is bad or not i'm still gona have probs exchanging this thing for another of the same.. I just have a feeling that i'll get home and test it and it will be the same...

Can someone with a true Power P/S test there voltages with nothing connected to the P/S and tell me there findings??

[eclypse]

Damn that was some testing... Fun but i'm exausted!

[Kunaak]

just a side note for people.

the antec true Power 550 is different from the Antec true Control 550. ;)

[L1ThIuM]

Shocking results mate :(

I hope that it's just those 2 that you've had though and that the replacement will be ok.

I've got a Qtec 550w and the 12v line goes from 11.73-11.93v and the 5v and 3v rail hardly move from 5.05v and 3.33v respectivly. This is using the setup in my sig. I was thinking of getting an Antec but this really puts me off :\

[Kalway]

That's extremely interesting. I want to say that it's just a couple of bad PSUs but 2 from the same company and different models... Extremely odd. I personally prefer to use Raidmax because I get them really cheap and they're super reliable. I haven't had one Raidmax die on me yet and I've surged a few just for fun (I was being naughty :devil: ) After all I've heard about Antec this is strange. I never use em because they're 3-4x the price of Raidmax and if I need more than 500W I'll just get a redundant one from work.

[eclypse]

Well i guess if i dont hear from more people with a Antec True Power P/S, i'll just exchange this one for the same one tomorrow.. But i'd hate to have to run back and forth to the store cause i'm expecting my new replacement motherboard tomorrow on Friday and i'm gona need a good P/S.. Unless someone has some better suggestions of what i should pick up at Comp USA..

[Penti]

eclypse
Sorry to hear that your antec psu don't work good, i havn't heard anything like it before and i dont have one so i cant help you :/

Originally posted by Hëll ‡ Fîrë
Took readings from the ATX connector? You should take them from the molex connectors...the ones that plug into the drives.

Yellow --> 12v
Red --> 5v
Orange --> 3.3v (its the one thats real thin and has 5 wires to it. 3 black grounds, 2 / 3.3 orange, and 1 / 5v red.)

I usually stick paper clips into the connector (thin one) to check the 3.3v while psu is on..very easy way.

Why measure at the molex? Atleast i want to measure how high voltage the motherboards get. There can be some voltage loss over the atx connector/cables due too strong currents...

[S370sNAKE]

i have an antec 550w true control.

i dont't find any problems with it because it works great for me.
t think the best buy i ever made.

[Hell-Fire]

Originally posted by Penti
eclypse
Sorry to hear that your antec psu don't work good, i havn't heard anything like it before and i dont have one so i cant help you :/



Why measure at the molex? Atleast i want to measure how high voltage the motherboards get. There can be some voltage loss over the atx connector/cables due too strong currents...

You just contradicted yourself bro...

You said why measure at the molex...then said there can be some voltage loss at the atx connector. i dont follow that at all man.

You measure at the Molex and the other one I mentioned because those will show you what the motherboard as well as all other components will be receiving.

To be safe, just unplug the psu,,let it sit a a minute, then bend a paper clip so that it fits into the ATX connector for the green wire and a black wire.

Plug in psu and it will fire right up without it having to be plugged into the motherboard or other components. That way you can adjust your volts without fear of damage to your rig.

[Penti]

Originally posted by Hëll ‡ Fîrë
You just contradicted yourself bro...

You said why measure at the molex...then said there can be some voltage loss at the atx connector. i dont follow that at all man.

You measure at the Molex and the other one I mentioned because those will show you what the motherboard as well as all other components will be receiving.

To be safe, just unplug the psu,,let it sit a a minute, then bend a paper clip so that it fits into the ATX connector for the green wire and a black wire.

Plug in psu and it will fire right up without it having to be plugged into the motherboard or other components. That way you can adjust your volts without fear of damage to your rig.

I mean that its best to measure at the atx connector becuse there can be a difference voltage (voltage drop in the atxcables) then on the molex connector becuse heavy load.
I wouln't adjust my pots in the psu without having some load ethier becuse then i dont know how high the rails will be, but thats me..

please dont say that it cant be any voltagedrop at the atx cables becuse it can, but hopfully it isn't. If you where talkning about adjusting the psus rails only and not measure them in load then theres another thing, what i ment with what i said was that i didnt get why measure the voltage on the molex if you want to know the voltage that are supplyed to the motherboard under load.

[Hell-Fire]

Ahhhhh.ding ding ding.

Reason you want to measure at the molex and adjust pots before connecting to motherboard and components is to make sure a safe voltage is set.

Then you can worry about how it does under load. And even then, its still better to measure from the molex since those voltages are the ones that matter most during o/c.

I just leave case open with meters plugged into a molex and watch the meters as I run 3DMark or whatever benching prog I am using at the moment.

[Penti]

aaaaaaaah maybe i'm using the default settings then adjust from that under load!

And say a good reason why its better to measure at the molex connectors.

[Hell-Fire]

Originally posted by Penti
aaaaaaaah maybe i'm using the default settings then adjust from that under load!

And say a good reason why its better to measure at the molex connectors.

We could go round and round about this forever....sheesh. :D

[eclypse]

Could easily just say its smart to check them dang voltages from all sorces!

Plus let me add that the length of the ATX connector can effect the outcome of the voltages... having too long a cord will weakin them lines some.. That and also heat itself in the P/S will weakin the lines..

[Hell-Fire]

Ditto on the heat.

I recently changed out my stock exhaust fan for one with more cfm...actually gettin more stable o/c.

I happended to reach around my case while it was on today and noticed that the air coming out the psu was quite warm.

Presto-Chango, 40cfm fan and now air is nice and cool.

[eclypse]

Yeah smart.. I took my 2 fans off the thermo controller in the P/S and wired them direct so they would run at full speed. Makes a big difference.. that was with my old Antec 550WATT TP..

[Walrusbonzo]

Just to say that I have an Antec TC 550w and the rails are the most stable I've seen of any PSU.

It would seem you've been unfortunate enough to get a faulty PSU :(

My 12v is solid at 12.3v(12.29 to 12.31), 3.3v is stable at 3.33v(3.30 to 3.34) and 5v(5.03v-5.05v). This is with my CPU at full load.

[STEvil]

You guys realize that a voltage differential between the ATX and molex connectors would create a ground loop, right? Drifting voltage all over the place is the devil. Noise, instability, you name it!

Car audio has problems with this, and if you are having that much of a problem with a PSU, its time to maybe look into a different PSU manufacturer.

Also, wheres those AC voltages I asked for??? 8-)

[eclypse]

Originally posted by STEvil
You guys realize that a voltage differential between the ATX and molex connectors would create a ground loop, right? Drifting voltage all over the place is the devil. Noise, instability, you name it!

Car audio has problems with this, and if you are having that much of a problem with a PSU, its time to maybe look into a different PSU manufacturer.

Also, wheres those AC voltages I asked for??? 8-)

I understand that and my Power source is from a dedicated surket <--However ya spell that one.

I've tested all power supplies from the same power source.. If 2 out of the 4 are good then thats fine with me cause the probs with the Antec True power and the true control which must be bad cause i've had a few people verify there lines to be stable.

[eclypse]

Originally posted by Walrusbonzo
Just to say that I have an Antec TC 550w and the rails are the most stable I've seen of any PSU.

It would seem you've been unfortunate enough to get a faulty PSU :(

My 12v is solid at 12.3v(12.29 to 12.31), 3.3v is stable at 3.33v(3.30 to 3.34) and 5v(5.03v-5.05v). This is with my CPU at full load.

Thanks for the info.. but i'd be more happy if ya took those readings from a mult then the hardware doc.

[Walrusbonzo]

It was from a multimetre! Except for 3.3v that is.

[eclypse]

K thannks!

[xgman]

I have 2 separate TC550's on 2 nf7-s 2.0's, both TC550's dials maxed out and I have no issues with either one .

[Golias]

My TruePower 550W is also reading weak rails in bios.

12v -> idle (11,67) load (11,64)

5v -> idle (4,91) load (4,89)

Stable readings yet a bit on the low side.

Thanks for all the help you´ve given me before hell fire.

[S370sNAKE]

bios,mbm or any other software readins not the same as multimeter readings.

[eclypse]

Ok i think i'm going to freakin lose it right about now.. I just got done testing the crap out of my new replacement Antec True Control 550 and guess what?????

Does the same damn thing as the other one did... Why? WHY? WWWWWWWWWWWHYYYYYYYYYYYYY!

I've done all this crap to get back to square one.. Also just got my new NF7-S v2.0 from newegg and guess what???????????? Yup you guessed it! It looks the same as the damn one i had that i thought was bad. :mad: WTF! WTH is the chance that i just bought 2 brand new items and both of them were previously used???

I'm i crazy? I'm i losing it? Might be but somebodys playing with my mind! The computer gods want me out! THats all i cant think of...

I havent even used the new MB yet but shockingly the back has the same crap that looks like it got hot as mine.. Hel the one i bought the other day didnt have anything wrong with the back but after 20 mins of use on my Antec TP 550, (the P/S that i thought was bad that i just made 2 trips to the store cause i thought the last one was bad) had the same cooked looking freakin resistors on the back as my own M/B.. So why and how could this one look like its already been used?? THe package looks new.. i dont see any signs of use.. no marks around the socket.. Could it be that that is normal and that happends when Abit pre tests the freakin board??? Or did Newegg send me a used board??

I havent even tried it yet cause i was waitin to replace the P/S since i thought that was bad but its the exact same as the one prier... Does it make any sense?? nope!

One thing that a friend told me that it might just be the thermo temp senser that controls the fans making the noise in the line.. I thought i'm not using that fan controller molex thats labled for fans... but he might be on to something since it is runing for the p/s's fans.. But i'm not willing to crack this thing open and take it off if i could..Then i wouldnt beable to take the thing back if i decide to..

THe P/S is rock stable as long as the fan controller knob is turned all the way to min on the drive bay controller.. but as soon as i crank it up a tad the 12v line is all over the place down to 11.11 i seen it go and back to 12.08 and back and forth in between rapidly..

He could be on to something since the other p/s's i tested the ANtec 412 and the PowMax 350 both dont have the thermo fan controller and there both stable.. dead stable.

So if his guess is right, then does that mean that my Antec TP 550 that i was using the whole time is not damaged??? It does the same thing but i thought i bypassed the P/S's fans off the controller and connected them from a molex so they would run max speed... but heh.. the thermo controller is still connected and runing.. hmmm...

But what about everyone else thats telling me that there Antec True Control 550 is stable after testing?? COuld it be that they didnt use a digital multimeter to verify this and just used some damn runing software on there system?? Might be.. i'm thinking they did.



ANy ideas about this is welcome since i dont have a clue as to what to do anymore or what to believe... WHat i do know is that i have to start runing something fast cause i have till monday to test these damn expensive sticks of Mushkin 3500 512 level 2 in dual channel... and if i cant get them to atleast 225, there going back... I already have the RMA # for the return since my 2 weeks of testing them are up today.. THey want me to return them by tuesday the lastest and i stil havent had a freakin chance!

[KennethChong]

Man, i wonder if its the store you got it from. Sometimes a load of faulty equepment can get sent in. I a while back i bought a dvd player from a local store, didnt work, went back and returned it 2 times and both didnt work.

[eclypse]

Originally posted by KennethChong
Man, i wonder if its the store you got it from. Sometimes a load of faulty equepment can get sent in. I a while back i bought a dvd player from a local store, didnt work, went back and returned it 2 times and both didnt work.

heh anythings possable.. but these 2 TC 550's were from 2 different stores.. WEll both Comp USA and both not even a half mile from eachother.. heh i know dont ask they bought out a competitor long ago and didnt both closing the other store and its like 5 years later.

I'll admit the first P/S wasn't sealed on both sides of the box as the second one.. but it didnt look used at all.. and there was no mark as if there ever was any tape..

[KennethChong]

ahh ok, well dang, sorry to hear about all this trouble your having, ive never had anything like that happen to me with any antec psu (and ive had a few). Looks like you just better invest in another brand.

[eclypse]

Originally posted by MickeyMouse
my truecontrol can take this and laugh at it.

2760mhz barton at 2.06v =162w
9800@540/395 or 5900@622/1020
240mhz dc fsb max timings 4,2,2,2 @"3.23v"
vdd at 2.1v
agp at 1.6-1.7v

all that and all rails are always above the 3.3/5v/12v spec.. you cant ask for anything more really :)

Well i could.. How about putting a multimeter on one of those molex connectors and tell me whats up! Does your 12v line go crazy from 10 something to 12v? How about your 5v line?

[IamAnoobieCheez]

Originally posted by MickeyMouse
my truecontrol can take this and laugh at it.

2760mhz barton at 2.06v =162w
9800@540/395 or 5900@622/1020
240mhz dc fsb max timings 4,2,2,2 @"3.23v"
vdd at 2.1v
agp at 1.6-1.7v

all that and all rails are always above the 3.3/5v/12v spec.. you cant ask for anything more really :)
is your video card peltier powered, by a same PSU too? (i think nut)

tbredxp1700@ 2794mhz@ 2.0v
GF3 card@ nearly 300mhz core + 80watt peltier
and the rest of drives and cd rom

All on a single cutie psu, Antec SmartPower 350watt. that's what I call quality PSU. Ha!!

[IamAnoobieCheez]

Originally posted by MickeyMouse
2760mhz barton at 2.06v =162w
9800@540/395 or 5900@622/1020
240mhz dc fsb max timings 4,2,2,2 @"3.23v"
vdd at 2.1v
agp at 1.6-1.7v

+

I 80w tec my NB and its off the truecontrol..

Im......pressive! :thumbsup: :wiggle:

[eclypse]

Originally posted by MickeyMouse
lol eclipse every stat i send is from a MMeter on the molex not a molex that has nothing on but the one on my 9800/5900 carsds of at the ATX/12v connector..

BTW add a 80w tec and a vapochill to that above... maybe the unit is bad or a peice of hardware is bad.. or in the end user error :(

I 80w tec my NB and its off the truecontrol..

Well i dont see how it can be user error since i have the damn plugs shoved all the way into the damn molex while its runing nothing other then the 2 fans in the P/S and one 120MM fan on the molex.. In fact it does the same without the 120MM fan. The lines dont go all over the place till i turn the fan control knob up on the control bay.. but that dont really matter cuase i can take the drive bay controller off and just hook a fan on it and it still will read all over the place... The 12v line that is since theres no pull on the other rails..

I'm not putting this P/S in the computer, its just sittin right here infront of me on the table.

[eclypse]

I dont care about the stats of someones computer right now.. I just am asking for a dang reading off the molex with or without a load so i can figure out if this stupid P/S is bad like the one before it and the one in the case so i can move on already and freakin put the new M/B in and finally play some Q3 and test some new ram before Monday comes and i gota ship it back so i dont loose 55 dollars cause i will have to pay 15% restocking fee if i dont need the ram.

[eclypse]

Originally posted by MickeyMouse
hehe, NA i was being sarcastic. I have heard of some units not working good or low rails at max adjustments with the VR's :( mine did 5.13v at max, but now does 5.23v, lol.. yeah I guess the mobo helps pull the sense wire to the PSU for more voltage...

Kinda makes some sense... Was askin that question first when i noticed the massive doo doo lines but no one answered me.. But the only way i'm gona know forsure is to install this new P/S and the new M/B in and fire it up which last time looked like it cooked a few resistors on the back of the last new M/B i had... Ofcourse this brand new never before used M/B looks like it already has some overheated resistors on the back.. :(

So to clarify, your saying that if the P/S has a nice size load on it the lines should level off meaning stay dead stable? And the Thermo tech bulit into the P/S that controls the fan RMP's is the cause of these major flucuating 12v line while having no other load on the P/S other then the fans its housing?

[eclypse]

Well what a know! Thanks Mickey!

To test the Antec True Power P/S ya must put a nice size load on it and then it will kick in and stablize the rails.. I just got done testing the old True Power 550 that i thought was bad with the bad motherboard.. since i didnt want to chance F'n up my new board just encase the P/S was bad and bamb! I ran memtest86 and while it was buzy i slapped the Digital multimeter on a molex and presto! 12.7v dead stable and 5.04 stable.. no movement period. :D

FINALLY!!! Some good news and i can finally rest on this damn P/S bullcrap!

Now i dont know if i should keep this old Antec TP 550 or not.. The old motherboard that was frying is definitly going out.. I cant even run test 5 in mem test at any FSB.. prob is the damn NB though since i did a bad lap job on her and the center dont touch much at all... THat plus after testing the VDD voltage its only giving the chipset 1.65v at a setting of 1.7v in the bios.. :(


Man i would love to save a 137 bucks and keep the old P/S but after that thing was cooking the back of a different non modded new Abit NF7-S i'm not totally convinced that its totally ok..

[Walrusbonzo]

Originally posted by eclypse
But what about everyone else thats telling me that there Antec True Control 550 is stable after testing?? COuld it be that they didnt use a digital multimeter to verify this and just used some damn runing software on there system?? Might be.. i'm thinking they did.

Are you saying I lied???? :mad:

I damn well used a digitl multimeter and my voltages are high and stable like they should be!!!!

[eclypse]

Well under the circumstances i didnt know what else to believe with having 3 of the same P/S's and the same crazy voltages and testing 2 totally differenet P/S's and they tested fine.

Though i'm glad you didnt cause if it wasnt for the few that did test there Antec TP and TC P/S's i would of never installed the old P/S and the old M/B to test it... prob would of kept going back to the store exchange happy till something came out different.