First VPC Setup

[zSilver_Fox]

I've been hoping to get into this for awhile, and joined the site a couple years ago, before realizing that "I have no idea what I'm getting into." Then, after finding my brother's R134a stuff lying about, I figured "Well why not."

First off, yes I've read the stickies, and have learned quite a bit. But I have a few more questions ;). If these have already been answered, I'll try the search function.

First off, I have a Tecumseh AZ400AR034 compressor (sticker says it's for R134a) lying on my bedroom floor. There are three lines in it. On one side there are two, one which leads to the filter/drier and condensor, and one above that which has broken off. On the other side there is one which has been crimped and brazed shut. Which of these lines would be which?

Also, the compressor has been open to the atmosphere for a good four or five years now. Is it still workable, or should I just salvage an old AC unit?

Thanks!

[jinu117]

The least you should do is to drain the oil out if not already, check if it is acidic (most likely is), purge the thing few times with PoE oil (probably a can worth $20-30) and retest. In all honesty for that compressor, easier to find new one on e-bay as acidic test kit isn't too cheap either.
As for line by back is service port, broken one is suction line (you will notice it being bit larger than the other 2)

[zSilver_Fox]

Thanks :). Pardon my ignorance... but by acidity, you mean the oil, right? And for eBay, you're saying to find one that's new enough so that I won't have to purge the oil? And thanks again for clearing up what the lines are.

[runmc]

If and when you find a compressor, you need to learn to search the manufacturers site for information on that particular compressor. You should be able to find all the data you need, as well as schematics which show the compressor and explain what each part is. It may take a little while to search but the information is there and will benefit you a lot and you won't have to wait on an answer from some one who may not know what they're talking about.
Good luck and welcome to Phase :welcome:

[ginnz]

jinu, why run an acidity test, wouldn't it be advisable to just drain the oil anyway? or is the test to dermine if the compressor is damaged?

[jinu117]

Well draining oil is a must. But it doesn't get rid of all the oil that could be sitting inside as
1) You can't get rid of all oil really typically.
2) Coated oil can contain them too.
I suppose you could flush few times with POE (to dilute it for whatever stubborn ones and hopefully get it all out) than check it afterwards. Only bad thing is... POE oil isn't that cheap really...
If compressor is damaged, it isn't worth bothering. Basically unless you have really nice compressor sitting in there and know that winding and vavles are fine it is worth bothering. Otherwise, easier to grab one from e-bay surplus (new one not used one just surplus) that is clean to begin with.
For me Danfoss NF10FX and NF11FX barely cuts the line of having to go through the pain of cleaning up compressor considering cost involved.

[killermiller]

I haven't seen those surplus danfoss on ebay lately.

[[XC] gomeler]

No more surplus NF11FXs as the guy that was selling them has since sold them all sadly. Had to move on to other sources :(

Welcome to phase change, work safe and ask tons of questions.

[teyber]

Well draining oil is a must. But it doesn't get rid of all the oil that could be sitting inside as
1) You can't get rid of all oil really typically.
2) Coated oil can contain them too.
I suppose you could flush few times with POE (to dilute it for whatever stubborn ones and hopefully get it all out) than check it afterwards. Only bad thing is... POE oil isn't that cheap really...
If compressor is damaged, it isn't worth bothering. Basically unless you have really nice compressor sitting in there and know that winding and vavles are fine it is worth bothering. Otherwise, easier to grab one from e-bay surplus (new one not used one just surplus) that is clean to begin with.
For me Danfoss NF10FX and NF11FX barely cuts the line of having to go through the pain of cleaning up compressor considering cost involved.
By purging do you mean drain old oil, Fill with new oil, Drain new oil, Put new oil back in again? And by acidity tester, does it have to be specific or can a cheap one made for water work?


GOod luck building!

[zSilver_Fox]

Thanks for the motivation :). Are there any places you'd recommend looking for copper for the evap block?

[teyber]

Yes yes yes! first check a local machine shop, but that requires you to get off your butt and drive now doesn't it :D

Check www.mcmaster.com
Go to the bottum of the page, well bottum right it says raw materials. Click on metals. Then go to copper. Lots of variations. Good prices :D

[Xeon th MG Pony]

you can use 99% pure isopropyle alcohol to flush it out with out damaging the insulation on the windings.
then dry and give a flush of oil then main oil chargre this should clean it out excently.

[DetroitAC]

Alcohol can make the insulation on the motor windings degrade, I wouldn't use alcohol except to do very minor cleaning of connection tubes where it will evaporate quickly.

zSilver Fox, I'd suggest you stick with good compressors that are clean and designed for the refrigerant and conditions. You'll waste less time and money that way.

[august123]

Some other opinions with isopropyle alcohol for cleaning the inside of compressor before change form Mineral Oil to Esteroil?
Does it harm the Windings or not?

[PhilippF]

As I think the insulation is standard laquer insulation on copper wire (as in almost every motor, correct me if I´m wrong), I think it should be safe to clean with Isopropyl alcohol.

If there are other things that might interact with the isopropanol please tell me.

I found a thread long ago here on XS where someone built an autocascade for a special purpose: To condense alcohol vapor coming out of refrigeration units being cleaned with alcohol. I think he knew what he was doing.

Regards,

Philipp