First SS build(already read the stikies god knows how many times :D)

[p8ntslinger676]

Well i would finally like to move from water+tec to a nice phase unit, this is going to be a year long project (for my senior project in my hs engineering class)so im just trying to get everything together as to a list of what im going to use. I will be building the case myself out of aluminum (im going to mill a front plate for it to match the front of my TJ-06) and i already know how to braze and have watched many a build here and the whole process. The only thing that im having problems with is parts. If at all possible i would like to buy everything from Ron since he is closest to me and i already talked to him a little about getting the unit charged since im not certified to do so. Here is what i have so far and please correct me if you see anything because im new to this and im here to learn and be as safe as possible:

-Danfoss NF11FX
-CryoStar CPU Evap
-Sporlan Filter/Drier C-052-S
-Blue Condenser
-Stainless Steel 3/8\"X 24\" Suction Line
-3/8" x 10' Dehydrated Refrigeration Line
-Capillary tube - 10ft - .031
-3/8" Standard "T" Fittings
-3/8" Schrader (5 Pack)
-all the closed cell insulation stuffs too

And on an overclocked (3.6-4.0ghz) Quad Core what would it be better to run, r402a or r507a? And how long should the captube be cut to for such a load? What controller should i use for a nice SS? I am still new to the whole phase building process but am eager and willing to learn and i would love a professionals opinion on the subject.

Thanks for all of your time,

-David-

[AliG]

sheesh, for a first build, that's some mighty fine hardware you have going there, but if I may, for the compressor you may want to check out embarco aspera nek line compressors, those are supposedly even better, but expensive. If you are willing you could always try ebay, I pulled an nf11fx off ebay from stu's stuff for $46 including shipping.


You seem to have your head in the right direction, so all I'll say is be careful and good luck. And don't forget to post results and pictures!

[p8ntslinger676]

you people dissapoint :( but thanks for the advise AliG

A simple yes or no would even suffice.

[Fhqwhgads6680]

hey man, you are going to get that kind of response here, its onlt because the community cares and wants to make sure people get into this hobby the right way. I honestly like the fact that you are going with good parts from the beginning instead of trying to piece together an entire system for $200 and be disappointed. It looks like you've done a fair ammount of homework and if you take your time and be patient you will end up with a great first build. Good luck on your first frost man!

edit: as far as gas, 507 is great to work with, I have used 402a and it works well too, but not a whole lot maybe a few degrees cooler, but a good bit higher discharge pressures plus 402a is harder to find for a good price.

[rogard]

Im not knowledgable enough to give advice..yet :)

However I would say good luck and stay safe!

[tim-]

you will get a good unit out of those parts but remember to purge while brazing. I would suggest to purge as much as possible. some people doesn't purge as much as they should. One thing to remember you ALWAYS have to purge evap while brazing it, same with condenser. otherwise you will have oxidation inside 'caused by the heat. whole evap will be destroyed inside and condenser will have oxide 2-3inch into condenser which mean a small lost in capacity. but if I'm not wrong cryostars comes with out/inlet brazed? still you should purge while brazing flexhose and captube.

10' captube is to long for decent load. but I expect you know you will have to adjust captube length while tuning.

regards
Tim

[Freddie123]

I would say about 220cm of 0.31in cap tube. A golden froster controller and R507a

[[XC] gomeler]

R507 for sure. I personally use the SupCo SUD111 charging filter/dryers as they eliminate the need for a t-connection + valve on the discharge side. Place a valve in the service port to charge/tune the system and you don't have to worry about a cold suction-line shrinking the seals on your valves. 1/4" valves slide nicely into the service port on the NF11FX(I believe it's 1/4", check the documentation, I haven't got a spare NF11FX sitting around to doublecheck) Purge Purge Purge and you'll be fine. I currently use 8'4" of 0.031" cap-tube and it works like a charm with R507. Should be able to push 4+GHz with that build if your board/chip can handle the FSB.

[n00b 0f l337]

Cap tube is somewhat dependent on evap as well, no real results out of these evaps yep, so your going to have to due the tuning yourself.

[Clemmaster]

It doesn't depend of what is after, I'd put 2m20 meter too. R402a involve to high discharge pressure to be interesting with that kind of condenser, so R507c seems to be a better choice ;)

[n00b 0f l337]

Yes it does depends whats after it, we dont work with large evaporator coils.

[Fhqwhgads6680]

I would guess that since these evaps have relatively low intenal volume compared to other evaps it may need to be lengthend a tad ? not sure, I have yet to use a maze although hopefully we will get ours done soon :) then I can speak from experience. I usually shoot a tad short as I like to hold high loads... so if you are getting mild flood back problems just increase the cpu voltage a tad. then just run the system on WCG 24/7 :)

Edit: gom thats pretty close to what I use too. I found 507 likes shorter cap tube than R22 did.

[n00b 0f l337]

8.5' of .031" works well for me to 270-300 watt range on a Chilly1.

[Clemmaster]

Yes it does depends whats after it, we dont work with large evaporator coils.

No it doesn't, we just want the accurate massflow, whatever the evap used it's always "filled of liquid" (the succion line is always frozen, that's what I mean :p). The evap just change the "thermal resistance", not the massflow (pressure drop isn't high enough, whatever the evaporator we use, to see any difference).

And 2m60 of TC-31 is too long to get best results with such compressors. It's only 3/8hp and 11cc displacement, the pressure drop is too high for the temperature it's able to provide under such loads.

[n00b 0f l337]

Your thinking about the best possible scenario, I'm telling you about the real world implications.
You need to have the evap in mind.

[Clemmaster]

No, you want the system to carry a load, whatever the temperature the CPU will be, there's a given captube length for a load and vaporizing temperature couple and it's the same with each evap as the superheat inside is very low.

[n00b 0f l337]

Yes except some evaps are more efficienct then others and thus when aiming for the best temp for a system, and not just a temp, the capillary can be tuned longer or shorter.

[Clemmaster]

Off course not, their efficient doesn't play any role in the vaporizing temperature! Whatever the evap you're using you've got the same power to cool. only the CPU is concerned by the evap (the deltaT between its temperature and the temperature of the evap), not the system until its not too big (like waterchiller for example, but for an other reason)

[killermiller]

-Danfoss NF11FX
-CryoStar CPU Evap
-Sporlan Filter/Drier C-052-S
-Blue Condenser
-Stainless Steel 3/8\"X 24\" Suction Line
-3/8" x 10' Dehydrated Refrigeration Line
-Capillary tube - 10ft - .031
-3/8" Standard "T" Fittings
-3/8" Schrader (5 Pack)
-all the closed cell insulation stuffs too

-David-

That is sure to be a nice setup. I bought all that same stuff for my first build. Planning for a quad core too but I spent too much money on tools and such. I think the Embraco Ron carries is actually a smaller compressor.

NEK2134GK (http://www.embraco.com.br/portugue/produtos/03017.pdf)

NF11FX (http://www.ra.danfoss.com/ra/Products/ProductCatalogue.asp?BA=&Division=HC&HL=4&HLID=39&AppID={c2a95dac-5e01-47df-92cd-5972d837cf1a}&selectedTab=LI&Show_All=True#)

[n00b 0f l337]

Again but your saying to tune for a temp at a load, then your ansers are correct, but tuning for the BEST TEMP at that load within decent operating parameter is different. Then your evap does come into play, and its not about just having a cap tube length that is short enough to hold.

[Clemmaster]

The evaporator doesn't give any capacity more to the system :|. It just allows the heat transfert between the CPU (/GPU) and the gas, that's all. The better it is, the lower is the deltaT but anyway we don't care about it for tuning : we want the system to be able to carry a load at the best vaporizing temperature possible. Whatever the evap you're using, the vaporizing temperature/cooling capacity is the same. The massflow will be exactly the same. the cooling capacity depends only of it, the way the heat is transfered is something really different and concern only the evaporator ;)

There are 2 parts of a system when you buy/set it (industrial, or not) :

The condensing unit : We are given its capacity under specific conditions --> The different massflow at given (working) temperatures.

The evaporator : We are given its cooling capacity under specific condition (The deltaT, the most important, and the vaporizing temperature)

What if the cooling capacity of the evaporator isn't enough? The deltaT increase, that's all, the condensing unit is still able to carry the load anyway, that's its job . The tempearture of the room is higher so you're given 2 choices :
- Change the condensing unit to something more powerfull --> The same cooling capacity than before but under lower temperature so that in the end the temperature of the room is what you want
- Change the evaporator to a bigger one : the deltaT decrease, the room is at the temperature you want.

When we're tuning unit, we are talking about the condensing unit only. You can, for example buy an evaporator that is 1.2kw rated at 8°C deltaT and -25° vaporizing temperature and set an condensing unit that is only 600w rated at -25°C. What happen? The cooling capacity is only 600w, but the deltaT decrease to 4°C, that's all. We have to play that with and find an evaporator that will give the good temperature.

[p8ntslinger676]

so after all of this arguing, would it in fact be better to go with a regular spiral evap or the new cryostar evap?

[Duh]

Im not knowledgable enough to give advice..yet :)

However I would say good luck and stay safe!

same here :)

[n00b 0f l337]

so after all of this arguing, would it in fact be better to go with a regular spiral evap or the new cryostar evap?
We got no real info on that. But we think cryostar might be better.

[p8ntslinger676]

k, thanks nol :D

[p8ntslinger676]

what about this NF11FX? the only problem is there is no electrical (capacitor and other random bs) and no mounting brackets. worth the $?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=300145527268&Category=42910

[n00b 0f l337]

Heavily mixed results there. At least I've had.

[killermiller]

what about this NF11FX? the only problem is there is no electrical (capacitor and other random bs) and no mounting brackets. worth the $?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=300145527268&Category=42910

For the parts needed it is about $80 anyway. I don't think you end up saving enough for the hassle.