View Full Version : Wiring Help Needed
Cupcake
03-29-2007, 02:52 PM
Ok I have my mach II ready to hook up to a switch cause the control board died
anyway the switch is in the case and now I just need to know how to hook it all up
I wish I wasnt such a noob when it comes to things that arent directly related to computers
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/1628/1002176xv3.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7866/1002177am5.jpg
http://img441.imageshack.us/img441/7624/1002178zk2.jpg
Cupcake
03-29-2007, 02:56 PM
yes it is
What colors are for what in the states on you mains?
Green earth?
Black live?
Guessing the cable comes directly off the comprsser
Cupcake
03-29-2007, 03:00 PM
if you already read this disregard it
I have no Idea and I am now thinking guessing on which line is which isnt such a good idea
sacha35
03-29-2007, 03:03 PM
it should have some righting on the back of the switch saying something like C - N - L1, can you please confirm this, if this is correct if so then you would take the live supply to C then a neutral link to N and L1 would be the switched live.
But you need to confirm the markings on the switch first before wiring this up.
Green is earth
Black is ''hot'' live
White is netural
Google hahah
Whats the markings on the switch?
Make sure you have the right colots on the plug to match the lead coming in belive!
Xeon th MG Pony
03-29-2007, 03:17 PM
Wiring goes as follows from the cord wire the black wire to a fuse (You'll have to install a fuse holder as the fuse would have been on the board) then to the switch
Black --------Fuse-----Switch------Compressor
Green directly to the grounding bolt
White------------------------------Compressor
You see the grounding Bolt lower left hand corner in the picture. You MUST have a fuse or interrupter on there, fuse is simplest and cheapest, the fuse all ways goes be for the switch and on the hot wire (Black). Judging from the size of the unit a 5 to 6Amp slow blow will be within a safe range with out nuisance blows.
Check the wire with a DMM or analog meter, ground resistance should be lowest as possible, like .03 Ohms as in the resistance shouldn't even show up on the meter.
Check to ensure there are no shorts, IE the total system resistance with the switch in the on position should appear as apx 3-5 Ohms; With the switch in the Off position it should indicate an open circuit.
Check recheck and triple check your wiring and connections, remember you are putting your life and the lives of all in your house in this units control when play with the wiring!!!!
I would strongly recommend having a professional check it for you when don, usually if you ask them to just have a quick look politely they will do it for a tiny fee or even free.
Which in on the switch dude?
sacha35
03-29-2007, 03:34 PM
Wiring goes as follows from the cord wire the black wire to a fuse (You'll have to install a fuse holder as the fuse would have been on the board) then to the switch
Black --------Fuse-----Switch------Compressor
Green directly to the grounding bolt
White------------------------------Compressor
You see the grounding Bolt lower left hand corner in the picture. You MUST have a fuse or interrupter on there, fuse is simplest and cheapest, the fuse all ways goes be for the switch and on the hot wire (Black). Judging from the size of the unit a 5 to 6Amp slow blow will be within a safe range with out nuisance blows.
Check the wire with a DMM or analog meter, ground resistance should be lowest as possible, like .03 Ohms as in the resistance shouldn't even show up on the meter.
Check to ensure there are no shorts, IE the total system resistance with the switch in the on position should appear as apx 3-5 Ohms; With the switch in the Off position it should indicate an open circuit.
Check recheck and triple check your wiring and connections, remember you are putting your life and the lives of all in your house in this units control when play with the wiring!!!!
I would strongly recommend having a professional check it for you when don, usually if you ask them to just have a quick look politely they will do it for a tiny fee or even free.
I know the wiring regs are different in the US for the UK but the fuse needed should suite the application, I guess he is using an 11cc compressor in that unit so he would not need that big a fuse, See what wattage the compressor pulls then install a fuse to suite this as having a to bigger fuse in is a bad as having know fuse in at all, you should look at it this way for every 250watts of power being drawn then 1 amp is required, so if that unit is putting out 500watts then a 2amp fuse will be required, this should be a slow burn fuse as it is a motor which will have a start up current of something like 3x the wattage of the motor, hear in the UK we tend to use MCB’s/RCD’s instead of fuses as they will trip within 0.4 of a second, for normal power consumption a type B or c is fine for this but if being used for a motor a type D would be used because of the start-up current being drawn.
The switch that you have shown has neon in it that will require it to have a power supply together with a netural.
But if you are in doubt about connecting this up take the unit to a reputable electrician to connect this up for you to be safe rather than be sorry.
sacha
Cupcake
03-29-2007, 05:28 PM
Well its all hooked up now
Im getting a fuse tomorrow
I hooked it up without one to see if it worked and it did so I wont be using it till I get a fuse :)
Good lad, does the switch light up?
n00b 0f l337
03-29-2007, 06:10 PM
Nope, I've never gotten those to work as they require independent power it would seem.
wdrzal
03-29-2007, 07:19 PM
Never go by wire color not everyone follows standards especially a modified or unit built by a builder they may use what every color wire they have. I dint know you Pete but this is a good time to stop .get a multimeter and learn how to use it. and the basics of electrical wiring.
You never guess At any connection because most of the time you have a 50% chance or greater(more wires)of being wrong.
sacha35
03-30-2007, 12:49 AM
Nope, I've never gotten those to work as they require independent power it would seem.
Don’t know where you got the idea that the switch needs an independent power supply, all it needs is for the neutral to be split from the main source, one neutral to the compressor and another to the switch for the neon.
Hears a pic of the basic wiering.
http://img180.imageshack.us/img180/9018/untitledoj3.th.jpg (http://img180.imageshack.us/my.php?image=untitledoj3.jpg)
Cupcake
03-30-2007, 06:02 PM
well guys I got it right anyway, Works fine , I only had 18g wire so I thought I would give it a try thinking it would probably heat up or something and need to be replaced
It didnt :D
anyway Its working fine, switch still dosent light up :(
anyway thanks to everyone who helped :)
sacha35
03-31-2007, 05:23 AM
well guys I got it right anyway, Works fine , I only had 18g wire so I thought I would give it a try thinking it would probably heat up or something and need to be replaced
It didnt :D
anyway Its working fine, switch still dosent light up :(
anyway thanks to everyone who helped :)
You just need to tap of the neutral to the switch and it will work unless its broken that is.
andybg
04-03-2007, 09:39 PM
I know the wiring regs are different in the US for the UK but the fuse needed should suite the application, I guess he is using an 11cc compressor in that unit so he would not need that big a fuse, See what wattage the compressor pulls then install a fuse to suite this as having a to bigger fuse in is a bad as having know fuse in at all, you should look at it this way for every 250watts of power being drawn then 1 amp is required, so if that unit is putting out 500watts then a 2amp fuse will be required, this should be a slow burn fuse as it is a motor which will have a start up current of something like 3x the wattage of the motor, hear in the UK we tend to use MCB’s/RCD’s instead of fuses as they will trip within 0.4 of a second, for normal power consumption a type B or c is fine for this but if being used for a motor a type D would be used because of the start-up current being drawn.
The switch that you have shown has neon in it that will require it to have a power supply together with a netural.
But if you are in doubt about connecting this up take the unit to a reputable electrician to connect this up for you to be safe rather than be sorry.
sacha
We're on 120VAC so for every 250 watts we'd need 2 amps :D
sacha35
04-04-2007, 12:49 AM
We're on 120VAC so for every 250 watts we'd need 2 amps :D
Sorry about this, to forgot about you guys running 120v, but even so do you not have MCB's or RCD's out there as these will trip in 0.4 of a second compared to a fuse which can take anything up to 4 seconds
Xeon th MG Pony
04-04-2007, 10:12 AM
Ya we do but they are much more pricier, you find them lots in commercial equipment, in canada any ways, I have to assume same for US.
sacha35
04-04-2007, 11:39 AM
Ya we do but they are much more pricier, you find them lots in commercial equipment, in canada any ways, I have to assume same for US.
Just the norm hear in the UK, yes they are used in commercial but also in domestic as well, but I think hear in the UK the regulations are a lot more stringent than the rest of the world, and cost does not come into it when you think it saves life’s.