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sacha35
03-29-2007, 07:36 AM
Well guys this is a new load tester that I have made, 4Qman and I are building a cascade and our current load tester was only good for about 150watts which will not be good enough for this load tester so I thought what I could do and have come up with this.

It has a verbal load setting with anything from 0watts right up to 500watts of which we won’t be testing this high but it is handy to have all the same, as you can see this has been made with safety in mind and has a 3amp MCB in place and full earth protection and clamp so that whatever we are testing can be earth bonded as well for added protection, this is all in line with IEE 16th edition regs.

The unit has now got to be calibrated showing what wattage is being put out to the heat source, this will be done when the cascade build has been finished as I have put a thermal cut off switch in place on this which cuts the power to the whole unit at 5c for protection, so will need some low temperatures that can hold below 5c so that I can calibrate the unit.

Anyway here are some pics for your viewing.


http://img363.imageshack.us/img363/8489/pict0148im2.jpg

http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/2926/pict0149lf5.jpg

http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/5625/pict0151uq3.jpg

http://img472.imageshack.us/img472/1192/pict0153en1.jpg

Gebba
03-29-2007, 08:39 AM
wow very nise thing you got :)

can you mesure the temp of the "core" on your devise :D ?

Pete
03-29-2007, 08:46 AM
Thats nice, any photo of the IHS unit and what the thermal heat thing is?

I would put the IHS up a bit more so you insulate around it..more like a cpu then, still it's very very nice

500w...should cover 6 core cpu's when they come out then

Ssilencer
03-29-2007, 10:28 AM
Really nice device, we had the idea for a long time, adding k type readings, but not much time do do it.
Yes, the ihs a little bit higher would be nice.

sacha35
03-29-2007, 11:33 AM
Thanks for the comments guys, as for having the ihs a little bit higher, I wanted to have this how it is, as I am able to have this fully insulated this way so that all the heat source will be at the top and not spreading though the bottom or sides thus only a small amount of heat loss from this unit and giving a more accurate reading when under loads.

I have done things this way as this is more like a conventional M/B, Buy having the studs in this formation I am able to just put the evap with its enclose straight on the unit as you would on the M/B so this will be insulated as well, so again I have done things this way as 99% of the heat source will be directed directly though the evap

Thanks Again, it’s nice to see what you guys think and what you guys are looking for, so all comments welcome.

sacha

Barnsley-Bill
03-29-2007, 11:46 AM
looks the dogs sacha35 realy nice job once more :).

Stapler
03-30-2007, 05:22 PM
Very nicely done, it's good to see safety precautions with such devices. I'm sure Walt will approve.

As for the mounting, have you considered using springs with the hold down, it should improve contact.

sacha35
03-30-2007, 05:31 PM
Very nicely done, it's good to see safety precautions with such devices. I'm sure Walt will approve.

As for the mounting, have you considered using springs with the hold down, it should improve contact.

Thanks for the kind coments Guys, should be able to do some testing with it over the weekend on a S/S unit,yes springs will be in place below the wing nuts, a standerd type evap encloser will be used to hold the evap in place with full insulation just as though you where fixing it to a M/B then the springs will be placed ontop of this and then the wing nuts to hold down.

kayl
03-30-2007, 05:44 PM
very nice work, love the stickers as well :toast:

Marvin
03-30-2007, 06:18 PM
excelent job.
congratulations.

Cupcake
03-30-2007, 07:17 PM
OMG that is amazing :D

Exahertz
03-30-2007, 09:14 PM
Nice!

More pictures, i wanna see its internal construction.

Exahertz
03-30-2007, 09:16 PM
very nice work, love the stickers as well :toast:

Yes, but whare is the "HOT" sticker? not that it sould get hot but it could. lol

sacha35
03-31-2007, 12:43 AM
Yes, but whare is the "HOT" sticker? not that it sould get hot but it could. lol


It will never get hot, well not any hotter than +5c anyway as the thermal cut off switch will cut in and power the unit off.

LittleDevil
03-31-2007, 01:13 AM
Really nice load tester, do you have some inside pics?

regards

sacha35
03-31-2007, 01:15 AM
I will take some when the unit has passed all the test's and setting i am doing with it.

4Qman
03-31-2007, 07:06 AM
I was as impressed when i see it as well, :slobber:

I am sure this weekend we will have it put through its paces and collaborated. :)

Exahertz
03-31-2007, 09:26 AM
It will never get hot, well not any hotter than +5c anyway as the thermal cut off switch will cut in and power the unit off.

Even better!

so what was the total cost of materials and time?

sacha35
03-31-2007, 10:06 AM
Even better!

so what was the total cost of materials and time?

Well lets put it this way, it was not cheap to make taking the quality parts I have used and the price of copper at the moment, but I think you will agree it was well worth it as this should hold up for a few years to come with the newer chips coming out.

Dualist
03-31-2007, 01:38 PM
Beautiful piece of kit there Sacha..!! :clap:

sacha35
04-23-2007, 05:00 PM
Ok guys a bit of an update with the load tester, the first attempt worked well but did fluctuate between 5w-10-watts so was not that accurate for the purpose in which it is being used so I went back to the drawing board to see how I could improve things a bit and have not made this second tester which works very well and is within range of 1-2 watts accrete, I have also added the enclosed a multi function meter that shows how many watts I want to be using, as this is much easier than having my Fluke connected to the unit.

Hear is some pics of the finnal build.

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/1472/pict0168qh6.jpg

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/6559/pict0169lr6.jpg

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/4127/pict0196xs9.jpg

http://img359.imageshack.us/img359/6807/pict0199iv1.jpg

Ssilencer
04-23-2007, 06:46 PM
Really nice work
Congratulations!

4Qman
04-24-2007, 09:40 AM
WOW:D

You have done a outstanding Job on this mate. Will look forward to using it this weekend. ;)

Brettbeck
04-24-2007, 12:50 PM
Awesome job!!

I need to learn a bit about electronics lol :p: .

wdrzal
04-24-2007, 02:10 PM
Very Nice job :clap: :clap: :clap:

here's some electrical info fo all XS members, all AC power is generated in three phase even that your home gets only 1 phase. all power goes to earth ground, that eliminates the power companies using a extra wire in their grids. Actually every pole put in has a copper wire running into earth as each service entrance has at least 1 ground rod now on 200 amp single phase services the power company's wants 2 rods in my area. They want 3 for three phase , rods are either solid copper or galvanized steel X 8' long. actually the customer is helping build their ground bed. when multiply rods are used they need to be bonded together then the solid copper wire of appropriate gage is run to the ground bar in service panel. Do not forget to install the green bonding screw unless panel is feeding a sub-feed panel then neutral bar needs to be isolated.leave green screw out.& 4 conductor wire of correct size shall feed sub panels.

Check with codes and requirement from power supplier in your area as some have tougher restriction than the NEC.

sacha35
04-24-2007, 02:25 PM
Very Nice job :clap: :clap: :clap:

here's some electrical info fo all XS members, all AC power is generated in three phase even that your home gets only 1 phase. all power goes to earth ground, that eliminates the power companies using a extra wire in their grids. Actually every pole put in has a copper wire running into earth as each service entrance has at least 1 ground rod now on 200 amp single phase services the power company's wants 2 rods in my area. They want 3 for three phase , rods are either solid copper or galvanized steel X 8' long. actually the customer is helping build their ground bed. when multiply rods are used they need to be bonded together then the solid copper wire of appropriate gage is run to the ground bar in service panel. Do not forget to install the green bonding screw unless panel is feeding a sub-feed panel then neutral bar needs to be isolated.leave green screw out.& 4 conductor wire of correct size shall feed sub panels.

Check with codes and requirement from power supplier in your area as some have tougher restriction than the NEC.


Thanks for the heads up mate,

I think you are talking about TT systems earthing systems; this arrangement covers installations not provided with an earth terminal by the Electricity Supply Company. Thus it is the method employed by most (usually rural) installations fed by an overhead supply. Neutral and earth (protective) conductors must be kept quite separate throughout the installation, with the final earth terminal connected to an earth electrode by means of an earthing conductor.

We do still have this type of system hear in the UK but this is very old now and most properties are protected via TN-S system, this is probably the most usual earthing system now in the UK, with the Electricity Supply Company providing an earth terminal at the incoming mains position. This earth terminal is connected by the supply protective conductor (PE) back to the star point (neutral) of the secondary winding of the supply transformer, which is also connected at that point to an earth electrode. The earth conductor usually takes the form of the armour and sheath (if applicable) of the underground supply cable.