watercooling hardware compatible with phase changers

[Athanatos]

any of you experts know if the the current hot items in watercooling today can handle the cold temps put out by phase changers? specifically for AMD AM2 and 2x 8800gtx

thanks a lot

[Cupcake]

what are you trying to do ?

[n00b 0f l337]

Wait do you mean if the pumps and water blocks can?
With pumps, probably not, you need something like a mag drive 3, my favorite, for chillers. Then for waterblocks you need solid construction. Buying a block with a metal top and metal bottom then brazing it togethers a great way.

[epion2985]

Amen on the blocks. For pump I like to play it safe, panworld 40PX (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PW-40PX&Category_Code=Panworld) or iwaki MD20 (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IWMD-20RLT&Category_Code=Iwaki) are my choices. The standard water cooling pumps tend to crack and leak, freezing and shrinking of o-rings, fracturing in the housing and impeller.

[Modzilla]

Yes to the Mag Drive 3 for chiller use, but first you need to take it apart, and re-assemble it using an industrial adhesive like Devcon 250 to seal all the joints, threads, and screws. You won't be taking it apart again...

[n00b 0f l337]

Heh never done that with mine and it works just fine.

[epion2985]

Heh never done that with mine and it works just fine.

for now :)

[Big SturL]

Neither the panworld, mag drive or md20 is easily accessible here in Norway. So, could someone point me in the direction of a rather cheap, easy to insulate and reliable pump?

[epion2985]

They have dealers in europe as well. Also order online, cross europe or cross atlantic shipping is not that big of a deal for something this small. Suck it up :)

[Big SturL]

Well, if we look away from the whole accessability issue, are there any cheaper pumps that will work?

[Athanatos]

imma looking at the waterblocks from dangerden for the GPUs and cpu (but prob have to remove the plastics they use (polycarbonates and acrylics) and make copper plates and braze them

as for tubing, is tygon stable to the chilled temps or is there more laboratory style tubing that's better

[o2bme]

Amen on the blocks. For pump I like to play it safe, panworld 40PX (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PW-40PX&Category_Code=Panworld) or iwaki MD20 (http://www.premiumaquatics.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=IWMD-20RLT&Category_Code=Iwaki) are my choices. The standard water cooling pumps tend to crack and leak, freezing and shrinking of o-rings, fracturing in the housing and impeller.

That PanWorld pump, my chiller supports 100-400gph; The pump would not be too powerful would it? Can you tune the performance?

[serialk11r]

imma looking at the waterblocks from dangerden for the GPUs and cpu (but prob have to remove the plastics they use (polycarbonates and acrylics) and make copper plates and braze them

as for tubing, is tygon stable to the chilled temps or is there more laboratory style tubing that's better

Well polyurethane tubing is way more chemical resistant :rolleyes:

[epion2985]

Well, if we look away from the whole accessability issue, are there any cheaper pumps that will work?

eheim pumps have been "reported" to be working out for a few people here. But I just don't trust anything like that. I guess its also an issue of piece of mind. How much would you care if your pump failed? If it won't be a big deal then you can try a few things if it is a big deal like for me then pay the premium for piece of mind. Shrug :shrug:

imma looking at the waterblocks from dangerden for the GPUs and cpu (but prob have to remove the plastics they use (polycarbonates and acrylics) and make copper plates and braze them

as for tubing, is tygon stable to the chilled temps or is there more laboratory style tubing that's better

Easiest way to go about it is buy an all metal block, take out the o-ring, and braze or as some people did here epoxy it shut with a low temperature epoxy.

Do you know what laboratory tubing means? Its used in a lab. If you use tygon is a lab its lab tubing. It doesn't mean anything. You pick the tubbing by the specs. Ideally you should look for tubbing that is made to work in your temperature range. Mcmaster lists all the specs for the tubbing they have, poke around. Though tygon will work I don't remember its operational temperature range, and there are many many types of tygon, not all are the same. Just keep in mind that the colder it gets the more brittle it is, so while it may "work" it also might crack if it is disturbed if its outside of its operational parameters.

That PanWorld pump, my chiller supports 100-400gph; The pump would not be too powerful would it? Can you tune the performance?

Max flow is given with zero restriction, which is far from that in a pc water cooling loop. Trust me you wont see anywhere close to half that flow. Flow doesn't mean anything, you have to look at the flow vs pressure curve. So to answer your question no its not too powerful. I have used it and my friend has used it in his chiller, good pump.

The faster you can get hot coolant out of your block and cold coolant in to your block the better temperature cpu will be at. However on the flip side the more powerful pump you use the more heat you dump. There is a balance somewhere in there. I personally haven't experimented with small pumps as these work out great for me and can be used in ambient water cooling too where flow is more important.

No you can't tune it. If you want to tune and adjust the pump speed iwaki RD30 is a killer pump, its 24v dc and is probably the best water pump out there for ambient and chiller needs, I love mine. However its a lot more expensive and hard to find. If you want shoot me a pm and I can sell you one of mine as I have two.

[Big SturL]

I found some adds on ebay for the MD-10 and MD-15, but they're all 100V... Also found this MD-30 (http://cgi.ebay.com/IWAKI-MD-30R-Mag-Drive-Pump_W0QQitemZ300093788787QQcategoryZ46547QQssPage NameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem), but I'm not too sure about its physical measurments. I would guess some of you have owned one, and can tell me about its size.

[epion2985]

I think they make 240v models too, but if you can't find one you can always use a cheap $15 voltage converter
http://www.220-electronics.com/Transformers/lttrans/prod.html

md30 is way to huge for what you need and dumps and ungodly amount of heat. Its about 11" long and 4" in diameter.

[serialk11r]

I think they make 240v models too, but if you can't find one you can always use a cheap $15 voltage converter
http://www.220-electronics.com/Transformers/lttrans/prod.html

md30 is way to huge for what you need and dumps and ungodly amount of heat. Its about 11" long and 4" in diameter.

Whoa that big?

[epion2985]

My bad, its 4" in diameter but length is closer to 9", still pretty big though.

[iNF3rN0]

has anyone used a Laing DC 12V or Laing D5 pump? Just curios cause I have the ddc12v from a watercooled kit im using in my old socketA setpu right now. I wanna make a chilled liquid setup for my new FX-70's. Does anyone know the lowest operating temps on these pumps? they only post the max operating temps.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

I used a D4 with my chiller, but remember I am in it for practicle temps for a larg system, My chiller ran at a max low of 0C and as warm as 21C At 6,000BTU@21C

The D4 would sweat but opperate fine.

[epion2985]

Above 0C d4 is probably fine, but I wouldn't use it below 0C.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

I had it going for a while with the system off at -20 with out even a complaint from it, though it was with a differant coolant cut.

Next pump I'll use a 1/3Hp motor with a brass impeller pump off a boat and insulate it.