View Full Version : Anyone know anything about this PSU?
Any information would be kwl, thanks!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190093006266&rd=1&rd=1
(ASTEC VS1-C5-04 PSU; 24.0V @ 37.5A; Maximum Power: 1500W)
S/N: 06160005; Part No.: 73-180-5019CE
How much do you suppose this is worth? Initial offering is $250
Is $100 a good price?
STEvil
03-19-2007, 10:35 PM
No good for anything that doesnt uuse 24v power. $100 is a steal. $250 is a steal too.
littleowl
03-20-2007, 12:17 AM
it don't look adjustable. so you would have to run it at full load all the time!
Cracker
03-20-2007, 12:25 AM
If the last couple posts didn't clarify it for you... that is not a computer power supply. ;)
littleowl
03-20-2007, 02:09 AM
hey cracker it for a tec not a pc!
No good for anything that doesnt uuse 24v power. $100 is a steal. $250 is a steal too.
Yep; gonna use it to power a 24V TEC only
littleowl;2079913']it don't look adjustable. so you would have to run it at full load all the time!
That's true. I suppose I could use a varistor to draw off some power if necessary. Though that would be kinda a waste... so let us hope that 24V is perfect! ^__^
If the last couple posts didn't clarify it for you... that is not a computer power supply. ;)
Hehehe. I think I need one more post to let that point sink in hehe jkjk. Yea its for the one TEC unit only. The other TEC unit will use a 13.8V PSU.
Well anyway I was wondering, where did you guys find information on it? I couldn't find any pages that specifically dealt with this one PSU; I found pages that dealt with various series, including the VS1 series (which means that it has two slots -- meaning that it can "contain" two PSU's, although this one only contains 1 I guess). C5 means 24V @ 37.5A. I guess I'm going to try calling their phone numbers... 1.760.930.4600 and 1.888.412.7832. Size isn't bad at all according to their series information: the VS1 series is 5x5x11 [in].
Side note: Congratz littleowl, for joining XC!! So what game are you gonna be playing now?
EDIT: Here is some information that I found:
http://www.astecpower.com/products/datasheets/hp/VS%20Series.pdf
http://www.astecpower.com/reference/instalnotes/vsinstallRevK%20.pdf
They say this has an adjustment range of +/- 10% Minimum... I don't really know what that means, since I don't know is the minimum.
STEvil
03-20-2007, 08:45 PM
Didnt look up any info, you gave us all we needed in the first post.
Didnt look up any info, you gave us all we needed in the first post.
Hehehe. Well, I talked to NOL. According to him, the PSU is indeed adjustable, albeit not by that much... I can't remember the exact amount... But this thing is worth quite a bit right?
littleowl
03-20-2007, 11:52 PM
Side note: Congratz littleowl, for joining XC!! So what game are you gonna be playing now?
I am part of CTX as well as part of XC! :) xc is extreme crunchers. I have been playing guild wars nightfall.
Do you crunch yet L33t? You should join us it is fun and helps out lots of people!!
littleowl;2082067']I am part of CTX as well as part of XC! :) xc is extreme crunchers. I have been playing guild wars nightfall.
Do you crunch yet L33t? You should join us it is fun and helps out lots of people!!
Mmmm well I fold on a tiny team hehe. But I'll join XC! I read some of the subforums for the different teams, but I'm a bit confused... which project am I supposed to be working on to be part of XC? And how do I sign up? :confused:
TopherTony
03-21-2007, 11:35 AM
If you want to fold for stanford, then download the f@h client and where it asks for your team enter 36362
For WorldCommunityGrid, "To find XtremeSystems team, just search XtremeSystems and hit Join Team"
Which one is [XC] though? Or does Xtreme Crunchers just refer to everything?
littleowl
03-21-2007, 04:39 PM
they are all part of [XC]! I do wcg because of the cause it is for. It is to help find cures for cancer and several other things. For XS wcg (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=207)or go to wcg www site and learn more about it over here (http://www.worldcommunitygrid.org/)
yea... but bad news... I'd like all you ppls' help, plz; thanks:
I originally offered this: "$100 Buyer message: Item listed must be fully functional and working in excellent condition. Additionally, must not have blemishes. Should these conditions be unmet, I reserve the right to a full refund. These terms override any conflicting terms in the listing."
By which I mean $100 total; although the seller wanted $27 for shipping, since I stated in the last clause anything that conflicts my terms take precedence, the total price should be $100.
However, now the guy doesn't want to pay for shipping and pretends like he doesn't understand =(
What should I do?
He wants to back out =(
littleowl
03-22-2007, 12:10 AM
You didn't really say that the total included shipping so I would offer to pay him 14 (half) the shipping cost of it. IMO
littleowl;2084203']You didn't really say that the total included shipping so I would offer to pay him 14 (half) the shipping cost of it. IMO
2nd that ( altough Id be more than happy if you could get it for 100).. in case you do have to pay for shipping thats a steal anyway :cool: . I would not let it go. Consider you' ve been going round the psu issue for such a long time and now that you've finally got one that meets your requirements..
Just dont :slap: me , its my HO
littleowl;2084203']You didn't really say that the total included shipping so I would offer to pay him 14 (half) the shipping cost of it. IMO
2nd that ( altough Id be more than happy if you could get it for 100).. in case you do have to pay for shipping thats a steal anyway :cool: . I would not let it go. Consider you' ve been going round the psu issue for such a long time and now that you've finally got one that meets your requirements..
Just dont :slap: me , its my HO
---
Thanks both of you; I'll try to cut a deal with him.... I love this quote:
Just dont :slap: me , its my HO ^__^
UPDATE:
Man I'm so glad all you guys instilled some sense into me. I bought it, even though he refused to do 50-50 for the shipping. W/e. I'll be a gentleman, not because he is one, but because I am one ^__^
Well, he tried filing a complaint against me when I asked if he wanted to do 50-50. ...Oh well, what a jerk. Its not the $20 that bothers me, but the fact that he doesn't seem too honest... but that's okay.
I bought it now!
=D
I can't wait until it gets here... shipping from sunny Cali to my beloved Boston.
From the sunny cali to the intellectual Boston :cool:
Boston kind of makes me sad: my grandpa died at the MGH ( mass.. general hospital) :S
hope you gives us some pretty good numbers on a 473 watter TEC :slobber:
Sry to hear that dude =\
Hey anyone know any way I can quiet down the fan to this PSU? According to the specs, its 49dBA...
Holst
04-02-2007, 09:54 AM
Lets hope it actually arrives and he wasnt just stealing an extra $20.
(sorry im a born cynic)
What TEC and block are you going to use with this monster.
Have been waiting anxiously for a reply for a while..
Yea sry man been traveling actually...
Well, here's the update:
First, the 437W TEC will be used with this PSU ^__^
So my friend actually was like, "hey, why don't you check the fuse? coz that's the first thing i would do".
Well, easier said than done, I told him: for the fuse is internal, and opening the PSU would require removing a "WARRANTY VOID IF REMOVED" sticker, and another sticker as well. One thing is for certain, if I opened it, checked the fuse, and the that did not fix the problem AND if I broke any stickers, the seller would certainly notice and say that I said it broke only to cover up some accident I did to the PSU. Considering that he opened a dispute (he wanted to have both of us pull outta the deal -- which I rejected), and he virtually threatened ("Now I'm not threatening you with negative feedback, but....") me with negative feedback.
Nonetheless, I was pissed at him: first, we agreed it was for $100. For anyone who wants to see the agreement, it is available here:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=009&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=190093006266&rd=1&rd=1
Click on "Purchases" and you'll see the terms I presented. I believe I made it rather clear that any terms he presented are NULL AND VOID. He did not think so and threatened to drop negative feedback AND he actually did open he dispute.
Second, you'll see that the item is listed as "NEW IN BOX", which is a lie. The item dented and chipped in several places, and the Vout connectors had a lot of scratches, indicating that it has been used before several times.
On the other hand, there wasn't much dust in the product at least; at least he had the decency to vacuum it or something...
So that nite I was thinking: this is an industrial grade PSU worth over $1000. It has been used, but it is hasn't been used much. How likely is it that such a PSU would break? Not too likely, especially given the end-customer.
I got dressed again and pulled out that PSU. I slapped a quarter on the "WARRANTY VOID IF REMOVED" sticker and warmed up the soldering iron. After about two minutes, I slowly tried scraping for an edge of the sticker, but that didn't work. Then it dawned upon me that there was another sticker partially under it... Please look at the photos... If I could remove that large sticker, I could use that to pull off the warranty sticker. Twenty minutes later, I successfully removed the stickers. Then there was another sticker, which took another ten minutes. I then removed all the screws and disassembled the PSU so that now I had a PWM + chasis in one hand and a DC-DC converter in another. I noticed that the fuse wasn't seated well... I removed it and checked for continuity: check. I reseated it and plugged in just the PWM/chasis. Surprise: the light turned on and the fan started spinning. I disconnected the power and reassembled the PSU. I reconnected the power and checked the Vout: 24V!!!! Sweet.
So its a working PSU, just hastily assembled. It could not have been shipping, because I carefully looked at the tabs holding the fuse in place. There was no possible way that a fuse could have gotten lose. It took significant force using a hex "key" to "fish" the fuse out.
According to the seller, he "had no means to test it". I guess he lacked three wires and 120V power socket. What a jerk.
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Aside: BTW Duh, do you follow bodybuilding? And did you see Jay Cutler's victory over Ronnie Coleman coming? Coz I thought RC would be undefeated yet another year.
Oh dude you had to deal with a jerk and a liar but the price youev paid for that psu is actually a steal :D. The 437 watter you be put into shame with the 1.5k w psu :D
You do have an Arctic Web right?
EDIT: remembered Devin told you he did not have any available :S .Has he provided you an ETA?
How about rad/s and pump/s and cpu?
Yea it is, but for I'm afraid there simply isn't any more room in the case to place a third pump. I'll have to suffice with just a single line with Y connectors.
Indeed, yes: http://dizastix.com/PSU13V40A.aspx
How about this project? Have you gave up now that youve got this baby?
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I kind off accidentally saw what you ve posted about Jay and Ron. I do not follow the day to day as I have pretty tight schedules and in Argentina ( 10 k km South of the US) you can t see much at TV ( nothing really).
Being honest, I do not watch TV at all :S ( I am at the med school and apart from studying like a son of.. I make some body building, browse the net ( XS mainly) and sleep :P
Kwl that.... well, that other project.. its all one big project, and u can check out all my projects at my website.
I didn't know when the Arctic Web would come in, so I decided to just use the Swiftech MCW5002 and see how well it works (prolly not too well, but its worth a try to just see anyway). Now that'll cool the 437W TEC. The 8800GTX will be cooled via the 320W TEC.
CPU: 437W TEC / MCW5002 / ASTEC 24V 1200W PSU
GFX: 320W TEC / Apogee GT base w/ MCW50 top & G80 adaptor / custom 13.8V 40A PSU
The 13.8V psu will also power the dual DDC2 w/ Petra tops!
The line merge via a y-connector: two 1/2" ID tubes change into a 1.25" ID tube. So the KOYO radiator box cools the entire system. I plan on using no fans for it. The fans of the ASTEC PSU are loud enough as it is... 59dBA =\ I should prolly either replace the fan or I donno, use a pot?
Well, yea I don't watch much TV either actually... I'm an undergrad student... I get my occassional dose of bodybuilding through magazines.. prolly a magazine every few weeks... sometimes much more often.
Kwl that.... well, that other project.. its all one big project, and u can check out all my projects at my website.
I didn't know when the Arctic Web would come in, so I decided to just use the Swiftech MCW5002 and see how well it works (prolly not too well, but its worth a try to just see anyway). Now that'll cool the 437W TEC. The 8800GTX will be cooled via the 320W TEC.
CPU: 437W TEC / MCW5002 / ASTEC 24V 1200W PSU
GFX: 320W TEC / Apogee GT base w/ MCW50 top & G80 adaptor / custom 13.8V 40A PSU
The 13.8V psu will also power the dual DDC2 w/ Petra tops!
The line merge via a y-connector: two 1/2" ID tubes change into a 1.25" ID tube. So the KOYO radiator box cools the entire system. I plan on using no fans for it. The fans of the ASTEC PSU are loud enough as it is... 59dBA =\ I should prolly either replace the fan or I donno, use a pot?
Well, yea I don't watch much TV either actually... I'm an undergrad student... I get my occassional dose of bodybuilding through magazines.. prolly a magazine every few weeks... sometimes much more often.
:clap:
Looks very promising..
There are some fans called noctua that are said to be dead quiet, maybe you could use them in the astec. Someone said they were a :nono: for radiators ( you should either run it fanless as you said or make a shroud and throw in some Yate Loons). What s a pot?
The Koyo rad is made of alu right? how are you going to cope with the issue of not mixing metals?
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Working out is really cool :cool:
BTW: I do not understand the way in which you call Univeristy and school as you say college to everything :p. Are you at University or at School? IF at unive.. what are you studying?
Cheers
J
Pot... potentiometer / trimmer ... (actually I usually call them varistor's)
The KOYO radiator is actually made of copper. It took a lot of work to figure that out, because there isn't a KOYO manufacturer's site that is easily found. This site: http://www.koyo-radiator.com/ is not the site of the manufacturer, but simply a distributor.... but at first I thought they were the manufacturer, so when I read that they only carried aluminum radiators, I thought they were all aluminum... but apparently that isn't so, which I confirmed through an Imports forum.
---------------
Yea working out is awesome ^__^
Well school I guess is kinda generic, though typically it refers to pre-college I think... but sometimes its used for college also. I'm studying mechE (actually at our school it is "Mechanical & Aerospace Engineering") @ Cornell U. Gonna be Vehicle Engineering & Aerospace dual concentration within mechE.
You are a hell of a cool guy!
Regarding varistors, although I have heard of theam did never know which was their use. I think I ll do some wikipedia research and ask my mate who is studying to be EE ( electrical engineer )
That koyo rad ( according to what i ve read is a butt kicker ) and now you tell me it s made of copper... I just wonder why people insist in thermochills; apart of dimensions and resistance to flow, do they actually have any advantage? I am just curious as I am not planning to get any of the two as shipping from the UK-USA to Buenos Aires would be pretty expensive.
Would like to see some progress of your rig but keep in mind the most importante thing at our age is the University, college or how you prefer :D
serialk11r
04-03-2007, 03:27 PM
You are a hell of a cool guy!
Regarding varistors, although I have heard of theam did never know which was their use. I think I ll do some wikipedia research and ask my mate who is studying to be EE ( electrical engineer )
That koyo rad ( according to what i ve read is a butt kicker ) and now you tell me it s made of copper... I just wonder why people insist in thermochills; apart of dimensions and resistance to flow, do they actually have any advantage? I am just curious as I am not planning to get any of the two as shipping from the UK-USA to Buenos Aires would be pretty expensive.
Would like to see some progress of your rig but keep in mind the most importante thing at our age is the University, college or how you prefer :D
A variable resistor is a resistor who's resistance can be tuned, hence the use of the word "variable".
A variable resistor is a resistor who's resistance can be tuned, hence the use of the word "variable".
I haven t seen the word variable in other part of the thread apart of your post and know hot to search for the word varistor at wikipedia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Varistor).
Thanks for your input :rolleyes:
Holst
04-03-2007, 09:27 PM
You are a hell of a cool guy!
Regarding varistors, although I have heard of theam did never know which was their use. I think I ll do some wikipedia research and ask my mate who is studying to be EE ( electrical engineer )
That koyo rad ( according to what i ve read is a butt kicker ) and now you tell me it s made of copper... I just wonder why people insist in thermochills; apart of dimensions and resistance to flow, do they actually have any advantage? I am just curious as I am not planning to get any of the two as shipping from the UK-USA to Buenos Aires would be pretty expensive.
Would like to see some progress of your rig but keep in mind the most importante thing at our age is the University, college or how you prefer :D
The only major advantages are that thermochill make the rads specifically for watercooling, so they are a convenient size and the pressure drop (resistance to flow) is kept as low as possible. The fin spacing is also designed for low airflow (better performance).
But.. a cheap copper heater core will still be very good at cooling a watercooled PC. For the difference in price you could probably buy two decent heater cores for the price of one "watercooling" radiator.
Im really pleased that you for the PSU working and for such a good price!!
Please keep us updated on progress. If you going to use the 5002 then try and maximise the flowrate as much as possible (as I think it will struggle)
I dont think you are going to be able to run this system fanless (if I understood propperly)
Remember that water temp is key to good TEC performance.
With the fans in the monster PSU.
If you can, find a datasheet for the PSU, this should tell you the safe operating temps at different loads. As you wont be stressing the PSU much I think you will be safe swapping the fans for quieter ones. Or you can add a Rheostat (http://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Rheostat&redirect=no) onto the existing fan.
I ve just noticed you are the crazy guy that went traveling all around the world..
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