[OT] What's the BTU output of a high-end gaming pc?

[entropy]

This is kind of off-topic, but I think if anyone knows the answer to this it's the guys in this forum. Basically, summer is approaching and I don't have central A/C. I've been trying to calculate what BTU A/C I'm going to need to install in my room (as a window unit).

Anyway I was wondering if anyone could give me a ballpark of the total BTU or watt heat output of a high-end gaming system (2 gfx cards, OC Conroe, etc). I just need a general idea so I can get an A/C with the right amount of BTU.

[Exahertz]

well hmm... all i can give here is a cpu wattage chart. (it helps right?)

CPU wattage chart (http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=135701)

[- Feedback]

You, your computer, and a couple other electronics will be around 3,000 BTU/hour. What you have to remember is that the colder you make your room, the more heat will be drawn through the walls.

Put the above on the back burner for a minute.

Area in
square feet Btu/hour
100 to 150 5,000
150 to 250 6,000
250 to 350 7- 8,000
350 to 400 9,000
400 to 450 10,000
450 to 550 12,000
550 to 700 14,000
700 to 1,000 18,000

Take the room area and look at BTU next to it. They compensate for some heat such as electronics and people, but not a power hungry computer. The range that you might want to get will be between the the above chart BTU output and the sum of that number and the 3000.

For example, if you have a 250 sq. ft. room, the BTU would be between 7,000 and 10,000. BTU.

There are two factors to consider when choosing a AC unit size. Too small and the unit can't keep up. Too large will cause the unit to run for short periods of time which is both less efficient and doesn't run enough to remove humidity.

You might want to compensate for other factors such as how well the walls, windows, and ceiling are insulated. The better the insulatation, the less A/C you will need and vica versa. Also consider how far you will typically cool below outside temperature. It's anticipated to cool by up to roughly 12C or 20F. The more temperature difference that you will want, the more capcity that you will need.

[wdrzal]

Kinda funny the question you asked as to your user name.

In the next day or two I'll pm you ,for now do the following and keep those answers for a start . I would need answered in the mean time: start with room height x length x width, number of windows measure window size W X L & # of panes and direction faced ,north,south ,east ,west. good to know but not necessary unless you have a very large picture window

since you said window unit,we also have to consider the temperature in surrounding rooms,and on insulation values . once I get to speak to you its not complected,but thats just some of the general questions.

then we will need a design parameter do you want your room 72F when 90F outside or 100F outside. just pick indoor & where you live will give us a idea of outdoor.

Also what electric item are usually always on when you are in room. there are a few others details. just get that list for now and we can talk in pm or messenger if you use that when I have time.

most room A/c have guides just using room dimensions and climate zone but their is so much more to consider for a accurate estimate,the above is only part.

[entropy]

Small room 13x10x8.
Two 3x3 windows with 12 panes.
One thin wood door which will remain closed most of the time.

The room is surrounded on three sides by rooms that stay in the 70s, probably mid-high 70s during a hot summer day. Window and wall insulation is poor, I could probably find more details if necessary.

The problem is my computer is literally a giant heater which would bring my room to upper 80s easily during the height of summer. I'd like to keep my room temperature in the 68-72 range.

I live in NJ, this (http://www.wunderground.com/NORMS/DisplayNORMS.asp?AirportCode=KEWR&StateCode=NJ&SafeCityName=Middletown&Units=none&IATA=EWR&lastyear=on&normals=on) graph illustrates our highs/lows/averages for the year.

Lots of humidity, although I imagine that will not be a big factor.

My only appliance running that is significant is the computer. Lights are usually off during the day. Here are more detailed specs:

Conroe @ 1.4v OC
Two x1900xt Crossfire [probably a big source]
3 hard-drives
DVD Burner
1900x1200 BenQ monitor
Watercooling system, with DDC-2 pump
700w PSU
4 fans

I will probably be doing a major upgrade during the summer to the high-end dx10 cards, which will probably be more energy-hungry too.

Hope that covers it. Thanks for the help guys!

[wdrzal]

panes as in thickness single pane ,double pane 2 pieces separated by a inert gas,3 panes has 2 gaps.?????

humidity is a factor I live in western pa ,I know what to factor for there.

Does everything PC wise runs off that 1 700watt psu????? will factor for full load on it 700w X 3.412 BTU per watt =2,388btu from PC alone if psu is fully loaded .is monitor LCD or CRT

we will add 350 Btu's for you,are there more????LOL

what level is room on....ground ,2nd story or higher if apartment building ?????whats under and above your room????? temps in those places.

those are odd size windows how do they open and measure opening so you can get AC unit that fits

68F pretty cold with low humidity which you will have you may need a light jacket if inactive:D ,is it OK if a STEADY drip of water falls straight down from rear of unit????

answer those questions and I will calculate heat load thru walls and floor & ceiling and give you a answer over weekend.

[entropy]

Single pane windows, not very good at keeping the heat/cold out.

700W Gamestream PSU, monitor is LCD.

Just me in the room.

I'm on the second floor. There's an attic above, that basically is at the outside temp. Below is a room that will be in low 70 most of the time.

The window opening is about 30 x 17in. The windows are really old, but they open normally, from the bottom, which slides up behind the top panes.

Well I guess low 70s would be the ideal temperature. Will the drip be on the inside? I could probably live with that but the window is right above my bed.

Oh I forgot, noise is a factor too. I don't want something that will wake me up in the night.

Thanks for all the help.

[wdrzal]

Attics normally range around 120 to 140 unless there is power ventilation on hot days ,are you sure about attic? I have seen hotter even.

[[XC] MarioMaster]

well as an example, my room is probably around 150-200 sq feet, second floor with an attic above that is cooled with a fan. I have a computer (not quite as high heat output as yours) as well as a mini fridge and a 27" CRT TV, my desktop's monitor is LCD tho. a 5,000 btu window ac unit keeps my room cool during the summer but I also have central air conditioning (ventallation to my room sucks) so i would think 5k btus will be enough for your room but if your house doesn't have central air you might want to look into something more of the 6-8k btu area.

[- Feedback]

By the given information, I'd say a 6-7 k BTU/hour unit should work well. I'm interested in what wdrzal comes up with with themodynamic formulae.

You're going to have to do some shopping to get a quiet unit and will have to pay a little more. Better quality parts and better engineering does that. Personally, I find that noise is lower pitch and easier to sleep with than axial computer fans.

[entropy]

Not sure about the attic temperature, you're right it probably gets hotter than outside temps due to solar radiation.

I know the A/C unit will be much louder than my computer. I got 3 undervolted Yates strapped to a PA120.3 :D

I should have mentioned before, the house has central air, that is usually kept in the 70s, though it gets hotter upstairs, that's where I estimated the temperatures from. My room, however has no vent for whatever reason (house is old).

[wdrzal]

Ya the central air was important,doest if have extra capacity where you can adjust the balance push more cold are to your room there should be balanceing dampers @ the vent or in line if done right, you close all the other rooms a little so your room will get a higher cfm rate. unless your central AC was undersized it should handle the heat from your pc . find out how many btu or tons is the central and see if your dad know the sq footage of entire home

A central AC needs to be tuned just like a phase unit. its seems to be keeping up if other room are 70 I was going to ask about that. you just add extra cfm to your room and still a little from all the other rooms they will still stay cool cause the thermostate is in one of them, or is it zoned with multiply thermostates? some just did a poor installationnn and did not balance properly

[wdrzal]

windows units drip outside ,fan noise on high speed is considerable, I would like to exlplore the option of reblancing your central air,I would like to call more can be acompleshed when I can ask question and get responses. I don't know you age but if under 18 I would want to introduce myself to one of your parents first. then we can discuuss this . Thats my recomandation.I still figure heat gain for the room before I call . let me know what you like to do in pm.

why spend the money for a window ac if your central has the capacity,just needs balancing. I sure you'll hate the fan noise from a window unit.

[[XC] MarioMaster]

if his room doesn't have a vent then it would probably cost a lot more to have one installed versus a window ac unit, mine was like $80 at walmart for the generic GE 5k btu unit and while it does make noise, it is fairly tolerable

[Cracker]

I have central air although I live in an older house and the venting system was added on after the house was initially built so it is not the world's most efficient cooling but would probably be fine if I didn't have an overclocked gaming system(running 24/7 most of the time). My small room was getting far too warm in the summer and so I bought a small window air unit at Target for $69 plus tax for a total of ~$75 and it's been perhaps my best $75 purchase ever. :toast:

The noise when it's on might bother some but when the alternative is sitting there, sweating your ass off, and watching your system temps soar then the hum of the A/C unit is music to your ears. :) Plus, I can always crank up my Klipsch speakers to drown out the A/C noise... I do live in a house after all. :cool:

I am also able to sleep quite nicely in the summer due to the white noise and being able to stay cool. I have a very hard time sleeping while sweating and with the window air the biggest problem is the room getting too cool. :p:

[entropy]

Well, I'm 20.

Actually the other reason I need A/C is because I'm going to college in NY and will need to cool my room which probably won't have A/C at all.

My parents don't want to make any changes or spend any money on the house, because it needs fixing as it is, and they are gonna sell it soon.

I just want a window A/C because it's a useful thing to have if I can move it between my house and college room/apartment. It might be hard to get precise numbers because I'll need it in different scenarios (i.e. at home during summer with some central air, or during late spring/early fall at college with no central).

I just need a ballpark that will cover different scenarios of cooling a smallish room with a hot computer. Sorry if this was unclear.

[wdrzal]

Like someone mentioned above a AC unit is no good if oversized as it won't run long enough to dehumidify and of course too small won't do the job.

what I was suggesting about "blancing" your existing system will not cost a dime. it is closing some dampers a little and being sure the one to your room is wide open. I just thought this may be a "free" option for now, also if their is no air return duct in your room and no space below a closed door for air to move to a return vent,its justs like turing the system off as static pressure will slow cooling.actually there should be a return in the ceiling as heat rises. Have you ever left door open during day, just a 1" from being completly closed will do. to see how temps in the room react?

AC like refrigeration done correctly is much more complex than most relize

I figue you a estimate in a day or two ,it got cold again and I been spending a lot of time blowing and plowing snow,as we got quite a bit in the last 2 days.

do you have a central duct to your room? do you know diameter if round or L x W if retangular. that changes everything if your room is partly supplied by central ac.

[entropy]

For whatever reason my room is one of the few that don't have vents. That is the main problem.

The other is that usually during the day it'll be 72 downstairs where everyone else is. Meanwhile upstairs it'll be several degrees warmer. Then in my room it'll be like a furnace.

I leave my door wide open during the summer to get the hallway air. During winter I leave my door close and huddle around my rig, like it's a bonfire. :D

[andybg]

AC like refrigeration done correctly is much more complex than most relize



bah not according to my old boss (worked for him for 11 days)
house sq footage / 400 * .75 = condensing unit tonnage.
Who cares about those silly u factors
Luckily in utah latent heat isnt a big issue.
Been in attics and set attic fan tstat to 150 while installing...turned on as soon as power was applied. Never look back on the decision to switch to commercial/industrial work :D.

[wdrzal]

For whatever reason my room is one of the few that don't have vents. That is the main problem.

The other is that usually during the day it'll be 72 downstairs where everyone else is. Meanwhile upstairs it'll be several degrees warmer. Then in my room it'll be like a furnace.

I leave my door wide open during the summer to get the hallway air. During winter I leave my door close and huddle around my rig, like it's a bonfire. :D

Good to know I try to work the numbers as I got real busy last few days,sorry work comes first.


so no helpfrom central and with attic above ,heat rises,statisfies 1 degree per foot if not blown around.

[[XC] MarioMaster]

sounds like 6-8k btu/hour should be good for an average sized room with a bit more heat than usual (attic + rig)