Oils !!!!!!!

[m411b]

Hello agin.
I have been searching here and google and everywhere else, and I cannot find the answer.

Can I use Castrol Polyol ESter as a oil in a phase unit?

Thanx, m411b

[LostInSpace278]

http://www.cszindustrial.com/documents/articles/retrofitguidelines.htm

Read here

[m411b]

Thankx for the aticle. However, an excellent one it does not answer my question. I know there are numerous POE oils out and about. But has anyone ever used CASTROL SYNTHETIC POLYOL ESTER in their system? And how did it do?

Thanx, m411b

[star882]

Ester oil is ester oil. Just make sure it's refrigeration grade and it should work.

[m411b]

Sorry for double post but, This oil will not be used in a rotary. It will be used in a recip. compressor.

[m411b]

Thank you Star.

[wdrzal]

Not only does it have to be a refrigeration grade oil, it has to be compatable with the refrigerant used.

[star882]

Ester oil is compatible with just about all the refrigerants we use, though.

[m411b]

I plan on useing propane so it should work. The castrol polyol ester is refrigerant grade oil.

And you can buy it at your local Tractor shop or Auto shop for around $2.99 for 240ml.

[star882]

I have not heard much about propane as a refrigerant, but I think you can use alkyl benzene (good for low temperatures) or mineral oil since they are less sensitive to moisture. You must take proper precautions with ester oil (even more for PAG, which is not used much anymore) for it to work right.

[m411b]

correct

[epion2985]

I plan on useing propane so it should work. The castrol polyol ester is refrigerant grade oil.


Its not about being "refrigeration grade", its about chemical composition of the particular oil being compatible with the composition of the particular refrigerant as walt pointed out.

[wdrzal]

Please post a picture of container you don't buy refrigeration poe oil at most auto and tractor shops especially at that price,sounds way too cheap.

if your using propane just use refrigeration mineral oil

[[XC] gomeler]

I agree with wdrzal, go to your local HVAC store and pick up some refrig grade mineral oil, so much easier to deal.

[m411b]

Thanx for all the replies.
This is a pic of the same exact stuff I have:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/m411b/ester4.jpg

It reads on the back of the bottle --
" This is a high quality synthetic lubricant for air conditioning systems. Can be used in R-12 or R134a A/C systems."
Considering R290(Propane) can be used with Mineral and POE, then this should do the job.
Correct me if I am wrong.
Thanx,m411b

P.S. The part # for this is 6808 it is ISO100

EDIT: To add part # and better pic.

[Xeon th MG Pony]

thats what I use for my chiller.

[m411b]

You use it for the compressor or????

[star882]

Thanx for all the replies.
This is a pic of the same exact stuff I have:
http://i120.photobucket.com/albums/o184/m411b/ester4.jpg

It reads on the back of the bottle --
" This is a high quality synthetic lubricant for air conditioning systems. Can be used in R-12 or R134a A/C systems."
Considering R290(Propane) can be used with Mineral and POE, then this should do the job.
Correct me if I am wrong.
Thanx,m411b

P.S. The part # for this is 6808 it is ISO100

EDIT: To add part # and better pic.
Yes, that'll work. I'd recommend the type that comes in a metal can (pressurized with some R134a), so you can fill the system without exposing the oil to air. Basically, after brazing and pressure testing, pull a vacuum, purge it with nitrogen or other purging gas to 5PSI, connect the can and can tap to low side (keeping gauges connected to high side), pull vacuum again, then open the valve to fill the system with the oil. Once the oil is in, add purging gas to bring up the pressure to 5PSI if it isn't already. Now reconnect the low side gauge hose to the low side service nipple and continue the triple vacuum.

For oil that comes in an unpressurized can, use a service nipple with a piece of pipe connected as a dip tube. Then try to purge the oil container with purging gas (if the container still contains oil) so the oil that remains is still usable. It's even more important to triple vacuum right after adding the oil as some air almost always enters.

[m411b]

I am going to use a seringe that is used for putting meds in cattle. 60cc I believe. I will vacum, purge, vacum, purge, vacum, purge, fill with oil, trip evac, charge. Unless someone has a better way of doing this.
Thanx, m411b

[Xeon th MG Pony]

Ya I use it in the compressor.

[star882]

I am going to use a seringe that is used for putting meds in cattle. 60cc I believe. I will vacum, purge, vacum, purge, vacum, purge, fill with oil, trip evac, charge. Unless someone has a better way of doing this.
Thanx, m411b
Use a service nipple that has a piece of pipe already attached (they're about $1 each). Simply put the pipe into the oil and pull a slight vacuum in the compressor to suck in the oil.

[m411b]

Star do you have a pic of what you are talking about? I tried to find it tonight at the tractor place but didn't see anything like what you are talking about.
thanx, m411b

P.S. Thank you Xeon th MG pony.

[star882]

It looks like a service nipple with a piece of pipe connected to it. (They're normally used to connect the gauges to the system. There are several types, including the type with one pipe attached to it, the type that is integrated into a coupler, the type that is integrated into a service valve, and a few others. They are all 1/4" flares with valve cores.) You'll probably have to buy it from a HVAC shop. However, ACR and Johnstone do stock those.

[m411b]

Thank you star, as I have found what you are taking about at my local Royal King, and it worked very good. It limitizes the amout of moisture in the POE oil.

[wdrzal]

You can make a home system for pulling oil in easily heres how

find a cap plastic will work other than original that fits container, drill a 1/4 inch hole in center of cap.

Take a piece of 1/4 tubing long enough to reach the bottom and 8 to 12 inces extra out the top, carfully bend the tube out the top untill is faces about 45 degrees pointing down,the end should be lower then the cap even a few inches more is ok.

slide on 1/4" flare nut and and flare end.

now braze a schrader port on the service tube on compressor remove valve core first, now connest your oil can spout to schraeder valve by flare nut.leaving valve core out.

pull a vacuum thru either another acess point on low side or you can use a high side port but vacuum will be slower reaching low side due to metering device, but either way the oil will be drawn into system.

be carfull a vacuum can pull the oil in pretty fast if located on another low side port, use you manifold to limit vacuum pressure.

when correct amount is in stop,replace original cap on oil can and detach from compressor and replace valve core.

then continue to vacuum as you normally would.

A simple cheap quick way to draw oil into compressor without spilling. most containers have marks on side to show how much oil you put in. if not find a quart oil bottle that has the measurments on the side ,clean thourghly,then fill with refrigerant oil and use that.

[Stelios]

A few minutes ago Hitachi sent me the PDF specs for my R410A compressors .
The PDF states that the oil in this motor is : haf68d1 .
Is this an ISO 68 POE oil ???
What do you think ? I've seen most people recommend VG32 or lower. Is it OK to use it for my 1st stage ? (R410A)

Also , i'll have to precharge the oilseparator for the 2nd stage (it needs about 500ml) and here in Greece i can only find Suniso SL32 . Can i mix them ? Should i search to buy a VG68 oil from ebay ?

Thanks .