Best Tool For Making Fan Holes?

[Zardokk]

I'm looking into getting a new case and possibly a better water cooling setup. I'm just wondering what the best tool would be for cutting 120MM fan/radiator holes. I was thinking maybe a hole saw would do the job well. I've considered a Dremel, but I'm not talented with a Dremel, so I would make sloppy holes. So...what do you guys think is the best tool for making holes in a case. I'm looking for something that will be a nice clean cut in steel preferably. So...am I right on the hole saw thing? If so, what size would make the best 120mm hole?

[FLMJIGGY]

Yes Hole saw.

The size of a CD Disc.

[Max Tractor]

Yup dremel is alright for holes that can't be seen, hole saw for the win

[GAM]

Depends on the thickness and type of material and the diameter of the hole you're cutting. Aluminium and acrylic is fine, probably up to 6mm or more for <=120mm. Steel is another story. It took me nearly half an hour to cut through 1.2mm mild steel using a small drill press and my 120mm holesaw, applying cutting oil throughout the process.

For big holes in steel, like 120mm, I suggest using a jigsaw (faster) or dremel and then hand filing and sanding. You'll be surprised how quickly and neatly you can do it. (Keep the jigsaw firmly pressed against your clamped and supported work piece.)

92mm and less I find the holesaw works beautifully in steel up to 2mm thick, just be patient and use a cutting oil to help it along.

[aznblueeboi]

either hole saw or dremel is what I've used

[qdemn7]

Be warned that a 120mm Holesaw is VERY heavy. A regular size cordless drill simply doesn't not have enough power to swing it fast enough to cut quickly. You really need a 1/2 inch chuck corded drill to cut quickly and cleanly.

[adamant415]

4 1/2" hole saw is what you need. When you are done use a file to smooth the edges or buy some moulding for the edges.

[Zardokk]

Be warned that a 120mm Holesaw is VERY heavy. A regular size cordless drill simply doesn't not have enough power to swing it fast enough to cut quickly. You really need a 1/2 inch chuck corded drill to cut quickly and cleanly.

So would my 3/8 chuck cordless 18v drill work? It's a little less than what you recommended, but could it get the job done? I've also considered using knock outs (at least I think that's what they're called) to make the holes, but they're god damn expensive and I don't know if they come in sizes big enough. I'll check eBay and see what I find...I've used knock outs before and they work great. If I can't get one, I'll go for a hole saw...

EDIT: HOLY :banana::banana::banana::banana: KNOCK OUTS ARE EXPENSIVE! I WAS LOOKING ON FROOGLE FOR 4 1/2" ONES AND THEY'RE LIKE $400 :banana::banana::banana::banana:ING DOLLARS!

[Max Tractor]

My poor dremel almost melted while cutting the front intake on my large chieftec, on my chieftec dragon I used a angle grinder to chop the front intake.

[qdemn7]

So would my 3/8 chuck cordless 18v drill work? It's a little less than what you recommended, but could it get the job done?
Nope, my 14v 3/8" cordless drill wouldn't do it, so I doubt your 18v will either.

[GAM]

Can you clarify what you're cutting? This is all important.

@Max Tractor, I concur. To cut a 120mm hole in the side panel and two sections for recessed handles in the top, all 1-1.2mm steel, I gave up on the Dremmel early too. I gave up on the holesaw even earlier as there is just too much load with a 120mm holesaw. It's doing a lot of work there.

I did manage to get a 120mm hole in the MB tray which seemed a little softer or thinner, but I think I was also more determined and patient and used a lot of cutting oil to help it along. My corded power drill was put under a very heavy load to do this. I don't expect ANY cordless drill to be up to the task really. 92mm or less, maybe, but nothing as big as 120mm.

In the end, the handle sections were roughly cut out using an angle grinder and then cleaned up using the angle grinder and finally with files and sand paper.

Plastic, acrylic and aluminium - no problem!

FYI, pics of sawing 120mm hole in MB tray:
On your marks, get set,
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG3535.5a.67.jpg
Go... after 4 mins.
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG3538.5a.67.jpg
Another 8 mins.
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG3540.5a.67.jpg
Added cutting oil... another 15mins.
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG3541.5a.67.jpg
Another 5mins and thankfully we're done.
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG3542.5a.67.jpg
Photo taken 33mins later!!! That was hard work! Note, it produced a good circular hole but leaves some sharp thin edges. That said, the edges clean up very easily and neatly with a file and then sandpaper.

The finished job along with the rest of the cable management openings I made. Note that all the straight edges there were cut using the jigsaw in seconds, bar a couple that couldn't be accessed with the jigsaw due to obstructions (these were cut using a Dremmel quite easily).
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG3578.33a.jpg

BTW, I was too lazy to disassemble the case i.e., remove all pop riverts, otherwise I would have used the drill press with more accurate results (less straying). As it happens, you can't fit a case into the drill press unless you want to drill out a corner ;)

[ooeric]

Air saws FTW. fast, not too much vibration of nicer models. cuts alot of things nicely

[flavoraid]

hole saw if you can manage
dremel if the cut is tricky (rare occasion)

[Maviryk]

You should use whatever tool that fits the bill. I dont' like hole saws on steel, especially for large holes. For long straight cuts A jigsaw is much better than a dremel.

YMMV, along with skill.

[Sneaky]

after using a 4 1/2" hole saw and a nice drill for a long time, i've made up my mind that a scroll saw with a fine-tooth blade is the best modding tool around - you're not just limited to circles and can do the octagonal shaped fan holes as well

the dremel is nice, but the aluminum oxide cutting disks are terrible for cutting holes in aluminum cases, and even with steel cases, you'll go through $10 in cutting disks for just a couple holes

[Quest_7F]

i actually am limited with tools so i spent 45 minutes cutting a 80mm fan hole with a cordless drill bit

[Maviryk]

Whatever tools you use, please remember to wear safety glasses. Nothing tops off a day better than shrapnel in the eye.

[Robbie]

I cut them with tin snips, sheet metal shears, and possible a dremel.

[Bbq]

plasma torch.


I like blowtorch + dremel + file. Blowtorch for the rough, smooth it out with a dremel, take off the sharp edges with a file.

[Sneaky]

plasma torch.


I like blowtorch + dremel + file. Blowtorch for the rough, smooth it out with a dremel, take off the sharp edges with a file.


that might ruin the paint/cause decoloration around the hole(s) on painted cases though, wouldn't it?

[clokker]

One of these (http://power-tools.hardwarestore.com/54-393-adjustable-hole-saws/circle-cutter-635144.aspx) adjustable hole saws, used in a drill press, will do just about anything you need to do, casemod-wise.
Unlike solid holesaws, the cutting bit is able to be sharpened/replaced when necessary.

[GAM]

I've seen them, but never used one. I'd like to check them out sometime.

[Roger_D25]

Great thread, I just finished reading through it and have a couple things to add as well as a question or two. I have a 4.5" hole saw (the kind with drill bit in the middle) and I have used a 14.4v Dewalt cordless drill to cut three holes throgh 1.2mm thick aluminum without too much trouble although I went through three battery charges to make it happen so it can be done with a cordless drill if you have no other options.

I currenlty have a Gigibyte 3D Aurora case with the acrylic side panel window and I'd like to cut a hole out for an additional 120mm fan to blow over graphic card and chipset. I did read a few posts above where people mentioned cutting through acrylic but I've never done it before so I'd like to know any tips for doing it with a hole saw, if it's possible at all? I was going to just do it earlier but I'm very worried about cracking the acrylic side panel! I've drilled holes in plexiglass before and cracked it quite easily with just a drill bit so I imagine it would be even easier to crack it with a big 4.5" hole saw? Thanks guys for any help you can give!

[Bbq]

that might ruin the paint/cause decoloration around the hole(s) on painted cases though, wouldn't it?

not when it's not in sight :D

nothing a wire brush and some paint can't fix. I wouldn't do the torch on the outside surface, but if it was on the motherboard tray or similar, it would be great. very fast.

[GAM]

@Roger, a holesaw will cut through acrylic easily and make very nice, clean holes, but, the WORKPIECE MUST BE SECURED firmly to the table/bench with clamps or the like.

Normal 'twist' drills don't have the right angle on their cutting edges for acrylic and catches the acrylic and tries to 'screw' through it. If the workpiece is not secured properly it will rise up the drill bit, often cracking or chipping it. Same for the teeth of the holesaw. If it is not secured, it can catch and dig in and want to spin around rather than saw. Once the holesaw starts a channel in the acrylic you're pretty right, just brace yourself and the workpiece during this initial penetration. Start slowly! Best to use a drill press too.

Holes I cut just yesterday (2 120mm holes in 2x4.5mm acrylic, bolted together):
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG4338.33a.jpg
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG4339.33a.jpg
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG4340.33a.jpg
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG4341.33a.jpg

[Roger_D25]

Excellent, thanks for the great tips GAM. So at the very least I should definetly remove the window from my side panel, lol! Unfortunelty I do not have a drill press but I could clamp the window down fimly with no problems and I can also take my time and work slowly! This might sound dumb but do you think there would be any benefit to maybe putting some duct tape over both sides of the area I'm going to drill through? I've used that stuff before around areas I was going to drill though (aluminum) and it's actually helped to make the cut cleaner? Also thanks very much for posting the pictures, much appreciated!

[GAM]

You would usually tape over the workpiece to avoid scratches. Aluminium and metal shavings (can't think of the right term) that are being removed but still attached can scratch the workpiece. I don't think this is important for the acrylic as the shavings are soft and won't damage the workpiece. However, it never hurts as there are always plenty of other reasons/sources of scratches during these jobs ;)

[edit: Thinking about it further, yes, cover your workpiece with tape, because you're likely to get scratches from the surfaces and anything else that comes into contact with the workpiece.]

I don't think you need to remove the acrylic/window from your panel provided you can secure it properly and have a solid base directly beneath your cutting location e.g., scrap piece of timber.

Btw, I have had to cut acrylic using a cordless drill before as the workpiece/location of the hole was too big for the drill press. It works fine but be prepared for that first bite! Make sure your drill 'starts' straight, once you have a channel it is not so critical. Remember, if it bites in, the drill will want to spin in the opposite direction... brace yourself and be prepared.
I guess you don't have a piece of scrap acrylic to test with first. This is always best so you know what to expect during your final cut.

[GAM]

While we're on the subject, I thought I would offer this advice too.

Get yourselves a unibit, drill bit! Probably known by other names too, but here some pics (I had to brighten the first one so you could see the drill bit properly). Unlike twist drills, these make beautiful, 'clean' holes in sheet material, both workpiece exit and entrance holes.
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG4363.33aa.jpg
http://www.gam.net.au/forumimages/CIMG4366.33a.jpg

[LazyBum]

If you have a buddy who is an electrician, a plumber, or an AC/heating/sheet metal worker they may have the tools already. Any electrical contractor who does commercial or industrial work may have a knockout punch for 4" conduit, which would be the perfect size for a 120mm fan (4 3/8"-4 1/2"). Any of them would be likely to have a 4 1/2" hole saw.