Finally got a Compressor

[naTTen]

It's a Danfoss FR7.5A. Don't have any specs on it exept that it runs on r12. I'm gonna fill it up with propane instead. I Can't find any cap tube ant that's the only thing i'm missing. The evap is soon to be made and it's a 5.5x5.5mm copper block.

I don't know how to suck all the air out from it later, if it is nessecary?. Can you put a valve on the high-pressure side that only let air go out and run the compressor for a few minutes?

Is the processing connection where you fill it up later?

[RuKK]

Danfoss dont appear to have your compressor on their website, and the only thing I could dig up about it via google is that its 1/5hp.

You can calculate how much cap tube you need here (http://www.supco.com/images/20%20cap%20tubing.pdf), and you might find this (http://www.danfoss.dk/pdf/installatorringbind/cn60f102.pdf) helpfull with the r290 (propane).

You will need to vacuum your system to remove the air & moisture before you charge it with refridgerant.

I take it by processing connection you mean the factory fill (3rd tube on the compressor, its generaly crimped and brazed shut or may have a valve on it). Yes thats where you fill the system.

-RuKK

[naTTen]

Ok thanks.

I mailed Danfoss and they said that the 3rd tube is a filling tube like you said RuKK.
I did also get some specs on it. It can handle 205w at -15 C
What does low, medium and high means in the chart?

[Tweaked!]

I would suggest that after you vacuum the system down (which I would recommend at least taking it down to about neg 15#'s) to flush the system with nitrogen before charging it. That way you ensure you've removed all impurities. Adding a liquid line drier to the system will also help preserve the life of the compressor. When you go to braze the system shut, shooting the nitrogen through it at a decent trickle while brazing will help keep the inside copper lines from flaking as well. Just a few extra tips for ya:cool:

[naTTen]

i got a filter. This thing is for school so i wont mind if it breaks into peices later :)
I'm thinking about of running a vapo later but i dont have any need for it now. I got dual processors and its p3's so it's overkill in my case. perhaps i will upgrade it to a amd system later this year or in the beggining of the next. Won't be a dual that time

Edit

got a evapblock now. its 6mm channels that start from the core and goes out. it's only like 25 cubic centimeters but its better than nothing. perhaps i will build another version that is 2 or 3 of these block on top of eachother and connected internaly

[bowman1964]

Originally posted by naTTen

got a evapblock now. its 6mm channels that start from the core and goes out. it's only like 25 cubic centimeters but its better than nothing. perhaps i will build another version that is 2 or 3 of these block on top of eachother and connected internaly

well that will work fine.

and putting 2 or 3 on top (mulitlayer block) will help but not as much as you would think.
i was the first to design ,make and use the mutilayer designed blocks.and they have lots of protental.
for one a mutillayer has more mass to keep heat spikes from affecting the evap temp at all.
two it gives the refrigerant more time to boil off into a gas.

but as far as being just way ahead of a single block,they are not.
as i am very proud of my designs and blocks i have.making these blocks is very time consuming and exspensive to do.if you dont get them made properly the heating and cooling (thermo exspansion) will make the leak.....because of there size.i checked into mass producing my designs but the local machine shops want upwards of $80 to $100 in just base machining,then i still have to hand fitt them and finish machine them.i dont think they would sell at those prices.

but the compressor you have should work fine.and make sure you give it a good vacuum in a warm room.if you want to be sure it is vacuumed good.i sometimes run a vacuum for 15 min while i heat the drier to help it out.then i let them sit for a while and start the compressor up fo a few sec.this will move some of the mosture around.then vacuum again for 15 min.now in a new system i doubt if you need to go to these extreemes but it seams to help in a older system.
just a couple of ideas

[naTTen]

Thanks

I thought that the dual or triple layer evap block would make the gas boil into gas faster and give a more stable temp.
But as you said it costs money and takes time. My dad did make the block for me :)
he got some special copper that costs 50$ for a small peice(55x55x15mm)
He did make it quite fast even he didn't have a cnc. He is fixing those "forms" that you make plastic things in for a company.
I wish i had a camera so i could take a card because it looks really nice and the mesurments is very exact.