PDA

View Full Version : How To Build a Cap in Cap Evaporator



n00b 0f l337
07-12-2006, 09:02 AM
Well for my own personal help, and for those who have realized Shamino's guides are down, here's a new one!

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/4983/capincapguide6yi.png

MeltedDuron
07-12-2006, 09:49 AM
nice guide NoL, you need photo's though!

yngndrw
07-12-2006, 10:23 AM
Nice guide, but I think that after brazing a cap into place, you should sand the outside to gain more usable surface area. The shielding gas will only protect the inside surfaces.

n00b 0f l337
07-12-2006, 10:24 AM
The oxidation is generally burned out if your using a flaming purging gas.

[XC] gomeler
07-12-2006, 10:37 AM
Very nice guide. Sanding would require heating/cooling the evap atleast 2 times which could cause problems with the copper swelling/shrinking and the brazed connections starting to flow again. I will be performing a similar operation when I build my autocascade evap, I'll try to take pictures.

runmc
07-12-2006, 11:55 AM
You are saying don't braze the captube in now. That must mean your not going to braze the cap tube in the first two caps at all. Your counting on a snug fit to seal the refrigerant from escaping around the captube?

Is it your plan to run the captube in through the suction line. If not, your going to need a 3/8" hole in the top cap for suction line.

What problem arises from brazing the captube as you go?

n00b 0f l337
07-12-2006, 01:29 PM
Sometimes it can make the capillary stiff and if you need to bend it if your caps arent going on straight.

runmc
07-12-2006, 04:09 PM
1.What size caps?
2.What size hole are you drilling in the sides of the caps
3.Will people be able to feed the capline into these at a later time?
4. Put the 3/8" hole for the suction on the opposite side of the hole in the cap beow. Correct?

n00b 0f l337
07-12-2006, 06:01 PM
1) I use 1/2" 3/4" 1" for GPU's, and 1/2" 3/4" 1" 1.25" for CPU's.
2) I drill 1/4" holes
3) I'd probably put a peice of tube into the capillary spot then, that people could then braze into
4) Yuppers

godmod
07-13-2006, 02:21 AM
i made a paint pic, ill upload it here asap (have to find it first on my hdd chaos...)

found it, hope it helps a bit:
http://www.extremecooling.net/index/e107_files/public/126_kappenevap.png

DeNs
07-13-2006, 02:36 AM
Very cool idea :) Might be the first evap design i'll try once I start (attempting) to make my own evaps. Simplistic, but how well does it work compared to nicely CNC'd evaps?

---dens

maverik-sg1
07-13-2006, 03:20 AM
I will be following any manufacturing based on this design with a great deal of interest.

Looks great and could potentially be a chilly one contender - be great if someone recorded chilly one temps and then installed this unit and compared the load temps.

Mav

n00b 0f l337
07-13-2006, 09:46 AM
One hole will perform better than multiple, since refrigerant will take the shortest path/

Sneil
07-13-2006, 12:11 PM
these cap in cap designs don't work so good mounted on their side. I wouldn't recommend a keeping your system in a tower if you plan on using this design..

n00b 0f l337
07-13-2006, 12:57 PM
I've never found that to be true. I've used these in all different positions without ever seeing a change.

Jack
07-13-2006, 05:14 PM
Those are some mad paint skillz you got there NoL :D
It's a good guide, thanks!

jinu117
07-13-2006, 09:28 PM
Just get some brazed pic and process pictures in :)

n00b 0f l337
07-13-2006, 09:29 PM
I'd like to but I really oughta get a new digi-cam.

Nagaru
07-13-2006, 09:52 PM
Good guide man.

wdrzal
07-13-2006, 10:12 PM
Having the holes on topof the inner cap can present some preformace proplems no matter what position its mounted in, By your drawing no liquid can make it to the outer rings unless the inner one is flooded to the hole(like a over flow level.) Having the maxium amount of :"wetted" surfaces in one of the keys,weted and flooded is not the same.also you have to take into account the rate vaporization happens and be sure not to restrict the vapor by too small of passages or holes at any one point or there can be pressure increases in givin areas, thus higher temperatures.

Don't get me wrong your design will cool but mabee a better one could be made.

n00b 0f l337
07-13-2006, 10:16 PM
Very true walt, but pressure increases in a given area will lead to refrigerant being spread out of that area into a lower pressure zone and then more evaporation.
The designs classic really, but its really just a cheap alternative.

boshuter
07-14-2006, 06:25 AM
I built a cap in cap using a Maze4 gpu block for a base. This works much better than a solid copper block. I tried a couple of different configurations and ended up with a 1/2" cap in the center and a 1 1/4" outside cap, having more caps inside wasn't worth the trouble it was to braze them up. I brazed the cap tube to the center cap and didn't put any holes in it, the refrigerant travels out both sides of the center cap via the channel that runs in the base of the block and suction is out the top/center of the outside cap. I replaced the Chilly1 evap on my small single stage with this evap and if there is any difference in performance it is very small.

http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/6303/capincap5db.jpg

[XC] mysticmerlin
07-14-2006, 07:48 AM
Nice guide Nol.
@boshter got a as the cap goes in pic to add to nol's thread so it could become sticky?

DeNs
07-14-2006, 08:04 AM
Oh my god! I just realised I could use the base I was planning to use for my DICE/LN2 tube for this instead!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/Anode/DeNsicles/LN2DICETube/Brazed/th_NextTubeBase.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v234/Anode/DeNsicles/LN2DICETube/Brazed/NextTubeBase.jpg)

My uncle did it in a lathe for me, I don't have the expertise to do that kinda work (yet) ;)

---dens

johann
07-14-2006, 09:33 AM
Using a maze4 waterblock base isnt exactly cheap? I thought this guide is to make a cheap evap

n00b 0f l337
07-14-2006, 11:12 AM
But its just another sorta add-on.
I didn't realize that people would find this so big? I mean am I the only who's been using cap in cap evaps for a while now?

[486]
07-14-2006, 11:29 AM
well, some people can get their hands on old lathes for around $1000 and they are very sloppy but good enough to make a stepper evap.
with the liquid freon thing, doesnt it have the highest capacity right after boiling [i heard chilly said that]

Nagaru
07-14-2006, 01:24 PM
All the capacity comes from the refrigerant boiling so if it is already a vapor it has no capacity.

n00b 0f l337
07-14-2006, 01:26 PM
^^ But the gas is cold and can very much help with colder temperatures.

[486]
07-14-2006, 03:44 PM
oh, i guess that's what he said, and my SS gets more frost on the suction line than anywhere else

boshuter
07-18-2006, 06:29 PM
Using a maze4 waterblock base isnt exactly cheap? I thought this guide is to make a cheap evap

I gues cheap is a relative term ;) I had the old block laying around and spent $5.00 in caps. You can buy old Maze4 blocks for $20-$25 almost anytime on the forums. I just wanted to show the way I did a cap in cap... sorry if I was out of line.

runmc
07-18-2006, 07:16 PM
I gues cheap is a relative term ;) I had the old block laying around and spent $5.00 in caps. You can buy old Maze4 blocks for $20-$25 almost anytime on the forums. I just wanted to show the way I did a cap in cap... sorry if I was out of line.

No harm done :D ( right noob?) We appreciate your version.

n00b 0f l337
07-18-2006, 07:35 PM
HAhaha no problem at all. :P
Ghettovap v2 for myself will be built in the next few weeks, and its not a cap in cap. In fact its got more mass than most steppers. So we'll see how that $10 evap turns out.