All the present RD30 owners, and future owners-

[phelan1777]

For those of us that acquired the RD20/30 & PSU from FAREAST. I am starting a thread for us to discuss settings, wiring connections and related questions/issues with said pumps so.

How to connect PSU's-Meanwell.

Pump allocation in Tower for those with similar loops.

Noticable performance increases/decrease based on loop order.

hopefully we can comsolidate info so we don't have to search through the forum.


Also post pics :-P But to save space, keep the General System pics for the Watercooled Gallery.

[mrkram]

ok so this is my first wc project- so far i have my meanwell setup with a cord made to accept AC power and the pump hooked up to the psu. im all ready to get my first taste of water running through my rd-30 but the inlet port is freaking huge....my 7/16 masterkleer can fit INSIDE it....i must be missing something. if anyone has any ideas of how to get my 7/16 to fit on there please let me know, i would post pics but i unfortunetly dont have a camera(and can't get one cause im so tight on funds before quakecon!).

[Praxis1452]

yea it's 3/4 OD and 1/2 ID last I checked heh. GL :-P

[phelan1777]

ok so this is my first wc project- so far i have my meanwell setup with a cord made to accept AC power and the pump hooked up to the psu. im all ready to get my first taste of water running through my rd-30 but the inlet port is freaking huge....my 7/16 masterkleer can fit INSIDE it....i must be missing something. if anyone has any ideas of how to get my 7/16 to fit on there please let me know, i would post pics but i unfortunetly dont have a camera(and can't get one cause im so tight on funds before quakecon!).


I have seen mention of boiling water to heat up the end of the tubing and then it shoudl be a little bit easier to slide tubing on.

Waht did you use for a cord?

That is where I am unsure should I run power from the wall>Meanwell>pump, or Case PSU>MEANWELL>PUMP?

[berknip]

That is where I am unsure should I run power from the wall>Meanwell>pump, or Case PSU>MEANWELL>PUMP?

Your Meanwell requires AC power (therefore wall).

[mrkram]

on page 9 of the group buy thread you'll see a description of how you can make your own cord with some old parts- its works fine; me and my bro did it! after doing that i got the 7/16 masterkleer on the inlet and outlet ports on the rd-30 and let me tell you how HARD it was: i am never doing that again...i will have to find different tubing to use. anyone have any good tubing recommendations for the rd-30 inlet and outlet ports? on a funny side note at the moment of truth my bro plugged the power cord in and nothing happened...so were both sitting there wondering what we did wrong, im checkin the psu wires to make sure we didn't mess up a positive to a negative or anything like that...etc etc... well anyway he decides to check the power cord connection to the wall(which was of course loose) and water shoots out my ghetto setup (with an open t line and y thingy) and sprays widly for a second before the power cord looses its connection with the wall again.....we both thought we died lol. after a couple hours of work though we were so happy just to see water spraying all over : > i cant wait till tomorrow when the psu is all dried up and we can give it another test run!

[berknip]

... anyone have any good tubing recommendations for the rd-30 inlet and outlet ports? ...

I used 5/8 ID tubing from the inlet to a 5/8 "tee" and resumed 7/16 ID tubing on the other side of the "tee". On the other side of the pump, I have 5/8 ID from the outlet to a 5/8 fitting on a filter, but you could get a 5/8 coupling and put 7/16 on the other side of that if needed.

[ReD.SkY]

dont mind me, im just posting to auto-subscribe myself :p:

[Bloody_Sorcerer]

I have seen mention of boiling water to heat up the end of the tubing and then it shoudl be a little bit easier to slide tubing on.

Waht did you use for a cord?

That is where I am unsure should I run power from the wall>Meanwell>pump, or Case PSU>MEANWELL>PUMP?
NEVER use boiling water!!! many types of tubing degenerate at such temps (and many types have maximum temps printed on the side) never ever ever heat them beyond said maximum temps (and hopefully not even close to em, purely for peace of mind)!

[epion2985]

I put my 1/2" tubbing under hot water in the kitchen sink, then fit it over. The outlet barb was easy, the inlet was harder but went on as well after some huffin and puffin. Its very easy.

Wired the pump and the meanwell. I put a hose in a bucket and turned the water on full, started the pump and man oh man, it drained that bucket faster then the hose could fill it, tried to block the hose with my finger good luck lol, no way, this pump is a monster.

[phelan1777]

NEVER use boiling water!!! many types of tubing degenerate at such temps (and many types have maximum temps printed on the side) never ever ever heat them beyond said maximum temps (and hopefully not even close to em, purely for peace of mind)!


I didn't tell him to do so, just that I have seen it mentioned. I know not to "boil" the water. Just heat it enough to fit the tubing.

[coyotetu]

so, here's my question, with hot water from the faucet, has anyone here managed to get Tygon, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD over the RD-30 out/inlets? normally I wouldn't ask, but I plan on getting one myself, and this tubing seems pretty stiff to me.

Cheers.

[ReD.SkY]

so, here's my question, with hot water from the faucet, has anyone here managed to get Tygon, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD over the RD-30 out/inlets? normally I wouldn't ask, but I plan on getting one myself, and this tubing seems pretty stiff to me.

Cheers.

the water from the faucet is not hot enough

i used boiling water to get my masterkleer 5/8OD onto the 5/8 barb on my iwaki

[coyotetu]

I don't think I'm much of a fan of deteriorated silicone tubing rupture anywhere near my $4,000 worth of hardware.

[ayrtonsenna]

NEVER use boiling water!!! many types of tubing degenerate at such temps (and many types have maximum temps printed on the side) never ever ever heat them beyond said maximum temps (and hopefully not even close to em, purely for peace of mind)!
thats just its working temperature.
all tubing is extruded at temperatures above 150.c in the manufacturing process and is perfectly ok to heat to under 100.c to fit over your barbs etc.

[epion2985]

so, here's my question, with hot water from the faucet, has anyone here managed to get Tygon, 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD over the RD-30 out/inlets? normally I wouldn't ask, but I plan on getting one myself, and this tubing seems pretty stiff to me.

Cheers.

do you people read??? Try 2 post above, yes with hot water from the faucet I have done it with a little work, not very hard.

the water from the faucet is not hot enough



yes it is

[coyotetu]

do you people read??? Try 2 post above, yes with hot water from the faucet I have done it with a little work, not very hard.
I didn't see you specify Tygon, nor the wall thickness/OD (1/8" walls, 3/4" OD) to get technical; Tygon S-50-HL.

[Nefilav]

I managed to get 1/2 tubing on an MD20RLZ, wouldn't call it any less then an epic struggle, even some skin sloughed off on my hand when I was "screwing" the tubing onto the barb. Needlenose pliers are your best friend, hold down one end of the tubing with your hand to the barb and yank the other side of the tubing down over the barb.

RD-30 has no windings, lucky you guys...my tubing is Clearflex rated for 160 F, 71.1 C ;Dipped it in near boiling water and seems to be fine to me. Is there any visible sign of the deterioration or is it better to assume the tubing is no good anymore?

[nikhsub1]

I managed to get 1/2 tubing on an MD20RLZ, wouldn't call it any less then an epic struggle, even some skin sloughed off on my hand when I was "screwing" the tubing onto the barb. Needlenose pliers are your best friend, hold down one end of the tubing with your hand to the barb and yank the other side of the tubing down over the barb.

RD-30 has no windings, lucky you guys...my tubing is Clearflex rated for 160 F, 71.1 C ;Dipped it in near boiling water and seems to be fine to me. Is there any visible sign of the deterioration or is it better to assume the tubing is no good anymore?
Sounds to me like you have a THREADED head which you should SCREW some barbs on to... you just put tubing over the threads? You sir, are an animal. If you guys would LISTEN, I have lot of experience with the RD. Get some HY-Per Lube and put a bit on the barb and on the inside of the tip of the tubing. It will go on there very nice and easy, no heating needed.

[berknip]

... Get some HY-Per Lube and put a bit on the barb and on the inside of the tip of the tubing. It will go on there very nice and easy, no heating needed.

I took Nik's advice earlier as well to get my tubing on and highly recommend Hy-per lube.

[Nefilav]

Well it worked fine, cant pull it off at all. Just worried about the whole hot water wrecks tubing thing.

[nikhsub1]

I should also add that Hy-Per Lube is the best additive to use IMO with distilled water.

[SiGfever]

I took Nik's advice earlier as well to get my tubing on and highly recommend Hy-per lube.
Where can you get Hy-Per lube?

[nikhsub1]

Auto parts stores... it is the super coolant seen here:

http://www.hyperlube.com/prod_cool.asp

[SiGfever]

Auto parts stores... it is the super coolant seen here:

http://www.hyperlube.com/prod_cool.asp
Thanks Nik,

I googled it and found that both Advance Auto and Auto Zone carry it. I will try it in place of Water Wetter.

What ratio of distilled water to Hy-Per Lube do you recommend?

[berknip]

it can also be found at O'Reilly's auto parts - where I obtained mine.

[phelan1777]

so who has their pumps hooked up so far?

ANyone have pics yet..............I am still trying to decide where I want to put the pump and PSU.

[nikhsub1]

so who has their pumps hooked up so far?

ANyone have pics yet..............I am still trying to decide where I want to put the pump and PSU.
Have had mine hooked up for 2+ years now :D

http://www.anonforums.com/builds/blackcube/rd30/pumpside.jpg

[mrkram]

going to hook mine up now...will update this post asap!

[epion2985]

I didn't see you specify Tygon, nor the wall thickness/OD (1/8" walls, 3/4" OD) to get technical; Tygon S-50-HL.

its 1/2" tygon. Not sure about wall thickness but its pretty damn thick either 3/32" or 1/8". It also has thred reinforcement within the walls which makes it even more stiff. Took me about 8 minutes to get both hoses on.

[mrkram]

going to hook mine up now...will update this post asap!


-edit: THIS PUMP IS STRONG YEEEE HAAWWWWWW :rocker:
next step for me: figuring how to mount the pa 120.3 in the cm stack 810 ^^

[jaguarking11]

Some of you guys should think about hard lining parts of the loop. Those pumps look huge. And probably deliver more power than any sane man needs (we are not sane we are xtremists). Ill tell you one thing, copper tubing can look awsome as well as deliver a loop that is bullet proof.

Nice looking pumps.

[epion2985]

Some of you guys should think about hard lining parts of the loop. Those pumps look huge. And probably deliver more power than any sane man needs (we are not sane we are xtremists). Ill tell you one thing, copper tubing can look awsome as well as deliver a loop that is bullet proof.

Nice looking pumps.

they are not large at all, infact very small. About the size of my fist. The power is large and all of it is used and helps. Copper piping is to much of a pain, tygon is bulletproof enough.

[jaguarking11]

Dont quite agree with copper piping being a pain. It dosent take very long at all. Granted it takes longer than regular tubing but you have no cavitation problems with copper as well as more streamlined elbows where needed where the id is the same throughout and not a pinched when you bend tygon or vinyl tubing preserving the inner diameter throughout..

[ReD.SkY]

im going to switch my gfx card

oh :banana::banana::banana::banana:... i cant because nothin attached to my WCing is removable without draining and sawing

[jaguarking11]

im going to switch my gfx card

oh :banana::banana::banana::banana:... i cant because nothin attached to my WCing is removable without draining and sawing

Yor more bananas than you think. The copper can be put on compression fittings that can come loose with a wrench. so you can dismantle it easily.

As far as draining goes, I dont mind. With my loop it takes 10seconds. Just open a valve and go.the loop can come apart suprisingly easy.

In any case im just sugesting it. No need to take it to heart. To each their own.

[ReD.SkY]

oh ok lol

[phelan1777]

-edit: THIS PUMP IS STRONG YEEEE HAAWWWWWW :rocker:
next step for me: figuring how to mount the pa 120.3 in the cm stack 810 ^^


I am debating putting mine on the rear where the two exhaust 120's are.
maybe mount it straight to the case and have the fans draw from case through RAD.

THis would mean modding the case for the tubing.


As for the copper piping. My gut feeling is telling me that that would be a better road to take for a number of reasons.
Plastic tubing is eaier to deal with and looks good, HOWEVER, polished copper is SEXY!
AND as mentioned can be an advantage where other tubing might work as well, beside if you want to flush your system you can use Vinegar and NOT have to worry about plastic/rubber tubing being harmed. At least that is how I see it.

[ReD.SkY]

natural rubber o-rings can be hurt tho :P

uh oh... we could just run our loops with vinegar instead of zerex or whatever additive ;P

[jaguarking11]

natural rubber o-rings can be hurt tho :P

uh oh... we could just run our loops with vinegar instead of zerex or whatever additive ;P

Enough sarcasm man. Just let it be. You dont have to do anything that you dont want to. I just merely sugested it.

[ReD.SkY]

yah i know... i mean its a great idea/alternative to regular tubing, but it has its ups and downs...

but then again, there are pro's and con's to everything...

just copper tubing would never work for me with how much i play around with my loop.. i think the longes i went without swapping/cleaning something was 1 month.

plus copper tubing could actually lower temps by a little. And you would never have to worry about corrosion or stuff growing.

[jaguarking11]

plus copper tubing could actually lower temps by a little. And you would never have to worry about corrosion or stuff growing.


I dont have any corroison in my loop. I even run a mixed metal block. Witch will be swaped out for a copper acetal one. But so far so good and the anodisation has held up rather well. As far as temps go however, I doubt it will lower it by mutch.

In any case, Ive actualy built a loop witch was a hybrid copper and regular pipe. It was as an answer to the cavitation problems the pump my buddy bought caused for others.

Check it out.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=55630&highlight=chromed+dragon

[phelan1777]

Hey guys, okay so who else has a CM Stacker 810 and a RD30/PSU?

Any idea where you are going to mount the PSU? Cause I am sitting here looking at the case.......and cant decide how/where want to mount the PSU.

Though I took a entire cord and modded it so I have a plug for the RD and it's long enough that I can put a switch for the pump pretty much anywhere I want in the case.

ALso, wanted to ask, for the electricians that are resident, it I were to add a switch, if my hunch is right or wrong, because its over 10 years since I took my basic electronics shop class.

where would be an ideal place for adding the switch, between the ac/dc adaptor and the wall or between adaptor and pump?

[mrkram]

hmmmm as of now im where you are- figuring out where my placement for everything will be. right now i think ill put the powersupply in the front part of the case most likley by the pump...not sure how ill secure it however.

edit- having trouble finding the tubing and couplings i need on mcmaster.com
I have the rd-30 and was thinking about the following setup:
rd-30 inlet and outlet port:5463K639(product id) Masterkleer PVC Tubing 1/2" Id, 3/4" Od, 1/8" Wall Thickness(that should fit over the ports)

then i would run a 1/2 id coupling to 7/16 id(main tubing is Masterkleer Tubing 7/16" ID 5/8" OD) and that would basiclly complete my loop.

last but not least....the stock barbs that came with the pa 120.3 leak- should i screw them in tighter, use an o-ring, or replace the stock ones for something that looks a little less generic and works better?

[phelan1777]

put in an order with REDSKY for CT, and Eddy BArbs :-P

[epion2985]

Dont quite agree with copper piping being a pain. It dosent take very long at all. Granted it takes longer than regular tubing but you have no cavitation problems with copper as well as more streamlined elbows where needed where the id is the same throughout and not a pinched when you bend tygon or vinyl tubing preserving the inner diameter throughout..

I think it is, its my opinion. Tygon tubbing can be bent in any way you want, its very easy to set up in any pc case. With hard copper lines you will need fittings, and there is not an infinite range, you are locked in to a sertain selection. Further more you will need to plan everything out very accuratly and there will be no flexibility or room for error vs tygon where you can bend and move it as you please.

That and it simply is not needed, there is no reason, it does cause more trouble, there is no argument that tygon is easier and less hassle. You can run 3 rd30 in line with 1/2" tygon and not even use clamps and nothing will leak. Copper piping will also make the case heavier. This is about as practical as running all stainless, crome, orbital welded piping for a freaking pc water loop :rolleyes: ie can be done but is a waste of time money and effort, not needed.

[ReD.SkY]

ive got 2 extra Eddy_EK barbs

[jaguarking11]

I think it is, its my opinion. Tygon tubbing can be bent in any way you want, its very easy to set up in any case. With hard copper lines you will need fittings, and there is no an iunifinite range, you are locked in to a sertain selection. Further more you will need to plan everything out very accuratly and there will be no flexibility or room for error vs tygon where you can bend and more it as you please.

That and it simply is not needed, there is no reason, it does cause more trouble, there is no argument that tygo is easier and less hassle, and again there is no need. You can run 3 rd30 in line with 1/2" tygon and not even use clamps and nothing will leak. Copper piping will also make the case heavier. This is about as practical as running all stainless, crome, orbital welded piping for a freaking pc water loop :rolleyes: ie can be done but is a waste of time money and effort, not needed.


point taken. It was just a though. I however prefer copper. But thats just me. An again I cannot stress it enough that it was just a sugestion, not a mandation to anyone. Simply put to each their own. I just threw my .02cent in thats all.

[epion2985]

:buddies:

[Nefilav]

Random RD-30 question: Does the casing get warm or even hot when its been running for a bit?

[epion2985]

I ran mine for about 10 minutes and it didnt. Havent ran it longer yet.

[LazyBum]

It gets very warm, hot even after running for a while. I installed mine the weekend after I got it and have ran it almost nonstop ever since. I may do some changes in the wiring, maybe put in a lockout relay to prevent starting the system without the pump on, and just general cosmetic improvement. Man this baby is strong though, the level in the t-line drops a couple inches when you turn it on! The bubbles seem to find their way into the T-line very easily too, the high pressure/low pressure in the line must help that along.

[qdemn7]

It gets very warm, hot even after running for a while. So does it get hot enough that it still needs some air cooling? The reson I'm asking is I'm thinking of buying an RD-30 and put it in an external rad box.

[phelan1777]

So whats the status on the rest of you RD30 owners, anyone have cooling stats, issues, ideas, something?

[LazyBum]

So does it get hot enough that it still needs some air cooling? The reson I'm asking is I'm thinking of buying an RD-30 and put it in an external rad box.
I don't think the pump itself needs ACTIVE air cooling, these things are designed to run in an industrial setting, so the natural convection cooling should be plenty as long as there is some air moving. I wouldn't recommend putting it in a sealed enclosure though. Mine runs 24/7 whether the computer is on or off right now, much safer for my computer considering my forgetful nature, but probably gets the pump a bit warm since the rad fans arent spinning. I am waiting for my PSU and video card to return from RMA, maybe I will get around to wiring up my safety lockout in the meantime.

[qdemn7]

I wouldn't recommend putting it in a sealed enclosure though. Mine runs 24/7 whether the computer is on or off right now, much safer for my computer considering my forgetful nature, but probably gets the pump a bit warm since the rad fans arent spinning. I am waiting for my PSU and video card to return from RMA, maybe I will get around to wiring up my safety lockout in the meantime.OK, thanks. Seems like I need to put a least one low CFM fan on the pump.

What kind of safety lockout are you on talking about? :confused:

[LazyBum]

I'm an electrician, or at least I was before I went back to college for my engineering degree. A lockout is when you use the set of contacts on a relay to control another circuit. What I plan on doing is using a set of normally open contacts on a relay thats connected to the pump circuit to prevent the power switch from turning on the computer unless the relay (and thus the pump) has power. If I get around to it I can make a diagram later.

[phelan1777]

I'm an electrician, or at least I was before I went back to college for my engineering degree. A lockout is when you use the set of contacts on a relay to control another circuit. What I plan on doing is using a set of normally open contacts on a relay thats connected to the pump circuit to prevent the power switch from turning on the computer unless the relay (and thus the pump) has power. If I get around to it I can make a diagram later.


Sweet, much appreciated.

I want to add a power switch to the pump, but not sure where or how to go about it.

I used an old PSU to get the switch and the plug to use on my case for the pump PSU.

[creidiki]

Just got mine today. Still waiting on the DC-DC converter - fareast forgot to pack it initially so its a few days away.

Coupld of thing I noticed goign through the manual:

1) no vertical positioning, thats clearly stated in the manual.
2) youre supposed to replace the whole damn thing, apart from the external armature, every 10k hours. lol. Thats about 2 years with how long my PC stays on...

[Torin]

2) youre supposed to replace the whole damn thing, apart from the external armature, every 10k hours. lol. Thats about 2 years with how long my PC stays on...
That is assuming you don't undervolt it, right?

[creidiki]

Yes, thats clear water @ 24v.

But even @ 18v and with the 7.5mths/year i will run it for, thats still under 3 years before the "consumables" - everything - had to be replaced, according to Iwaki.

Of course that time is bound to be on the cautious side, so I'd expect it to run something close to 5yrs on avg...

Its also funny - apart from the occasional instance of engrish - the way they "suggest you stock up on consumables for prolonged operation" and "suggest o-ring is replaced every time the pump is opened"

[nikhsub1]

December will be 2 years that my RD-30 has been running 24/7... Best estimation is that my pump has been running as of right now 15,330 hours :D

[creidiki]

Aye well like I said, its a TBO value for industrial operation @ 24v.

Much like aircraft motors you can actually happily run them 2x as long, its just not something you want to do if you have something mission-critical or potentially dangerous/extremely expensive hooked up to it. Like for example, if you risk your life should the engine in your plane fail on you :D

I fully expect to get 20-25k hours out of mine.

[nikhsub1]

I expect 50K plus hours EASY.

[phelan1777]

has anyone setup their RD30 and Meanwell with a power switch, if so mind sharing how everything is wired?

[phelan1777]

Well I finally got my pump up and running, with my RAD, had it running for 24 hours:D

[creidiki]

You running@ 24v? I'm running mine @ 15v...

[phelan1777]

You running@ 24v? I'm running mine @ 15v...


its not in my system. well was running it. Not at 24volts. I will hopefully be leak testing this weekend. I have to clean the blocks, and put my Cascade back together. Took it apart to clean it out, from the previous owner.

[nikhsub1]

You running@ 24v? I'm running mine @ 15v...
Yes 24v.

[creidiki]

Performance for me is plenty like this. Going for the low-heat/low-wear angle with my RD-30 I think, lets see if I'm still using it 10yrs from now :D

[nikhsub1]

Performance for me is plenty like this. Going for the low-heat/low-wear angle with my RD-30 I think, lets see if I'm still using it 10yrs from now :D
This is why I'm going 2x DDC Ultras in series for my green cube.