Awesome work b@llz0r!!
watching this build!
Awesome work b@llz0r!!
watching this build!
Yeah this loop is too low a restriction for the Iwaki... even on the lowest settings im getting a vortex. I had initially planned to use DDC pumps, but the build has kinda evolved.
Im thinking of making this my gaming rig which has a supreme.... the iwaki isnt really htpc friendly either
small update... Automatic Starter for the RD30
Thanks to the help of KaptnKrunch I have wired a simple relay so that the RD30 will start when the computer is powered up.
A 30A horn relay should do it
Soldered in a diode on the 12V line... dont really know what this is for but KaptnKrunch said it would be a good idea
Soldered a molex connector onto the signal wires (crap soldering)
Added a wire to run to the pump and a bit of sleving
Yellow goes to the meanwell, molex to the ATX PSU, Black to the Pump
jumped the ATX psu for testing (bridging green pin with any black) and it worked a treat... Lighting works too
Last edited by b@llz0r; 11-01-2008 at 02:41 AM.
Nice work there.
One of my favorite cases, except in Australia it is around $500.
Is that just acrylic on the video card?
I cant wait to see the final product!
yeah UV blue acrylic...
b@llz0r i like that relay idea, nice!
cheers guys... uv blue acrylic looks nice, and will hopefully save my cards from the stray drop or two
The uv acrylic FC8800 mod (underside) isnt holding up to the RD30's pressure tho.... sometimes when I shut off the pump I get leakage.... this wont do.
Excellent work! Very well engineered...
where part leak?
i suggest you replace those skinny/tiny red o-rings with something a little beefier... they are really too thin... koolance should change them as they are cheap...
or just too strong is the word, and not enough restriction... maybe add another rad or 2...
UpDaTe
Made an anti vibration pad for the RD30 by cutting out a neoprene pad... sounds much better
Also painted the RD30 black today... blends in a lot better
I think your right... time to bring out the big guns
EK Supreme, NB and Mosfet blocks
Stealthy RD30
I was getting small bubbles sucked into the pump, so I put a piece of black coarse sponge down the bottom... no more bubbles, much quieter. As the sponge stopped anything getting sucked into the inlet I decided to bling up the res a bit by throwing in some uv blue 3 pin connectors and a uv led in the top hole.
Looks sweet with the lights off
The added restriction was just what the doctor ordered... no more leaks.
ty septium
Ill go ahead and install the rest of the cards tonight and hopefully we can watch a DVD... my g/f is really riding me to get the HTPC back
Last edited by b@llz0r; 11-02-2008 at 04:06 AM.
Fired it up last night, Q6600 stock settings, with water @ 26C everest is reporting core temps of 28-32 idle, under load water goes up to 29 core temps 38-48.
I tried cranking up the RD30 to 24V... wont do that again, vid card started leaking again and I even got a few drops from my NB block... I think it was about to blow the O ring!!!
I learnt one thing tho... water in and water out temp probes are a waste of time, im getting at most a 1c delta across the rad... I dont know what the accuracy of the temp probes are but im guessing probably about +/-1C at best :/
Last edited by b@llz0r; 11-02-2008 at 07:44 PM.
I believe 18v is the peak of performance/watt for the rd30 anyway...
dont fry that beautiful rig!
nice looking build, however it doesnt like look you can fit an eatx board?
i was thinking of doing something similar when i get the case early next spring (it costs ~$560, so i need to save a bit of extra money first) when i get my new system (hopefully dual cpu)
Nice build, guy! hopefully i can do something similar when i get the x500. and i agree with you, you probably only need a single probe in the loop to see what the delta from water to air is, and that's it. kudos!
cheers,
lux
Yeah... that also means that loop order isnt important.
the way guys were talking about the importance of having your rad after your pump and the cpu after the rad I thought there must have been a large drop in temps across the radiator.
I now understand that the loop works as a complete system, the blocks gradually releasing heat into the loop and the radiator gradually taking it out.
Nice Build, very clean
Intel I7 860@3.9| EVGA P55 FTW Edition | 4GB DDR3-1600 | ATI 5850 | Corsair 800D | Antec Quattro 850Watt | 3x640gb WD blacks Raid 0 | Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit | 3x24" LG Monitors 5760*1080 | WaterCooled
Before
After
ive removed the 8800 ultras until i can sort out the leaks... im getting some covers cut out of 316 stainless which should sort out the problem
Last edited by b@llz0r; 11-05-2008 at 07:16 AM.
Damn!
Keep the pics and updates coming!!!!
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
MOAAAAAAR!!! plz?
is that htpc? nice work dude!
Corsair Obsidian 650D - EVGA P67 FTW - Samsung F3 1Tb - 8Gb A-Data cheapest crap DDR3 - Intel Core i5 2500K w/ Corsair H50 - EVGA GTX 295 co-op - Corsair AX650
hmm b@llzor did we ever tell you to rotate your supreme to the proper orientation... 90degs should do it...
small update
Finishing touches
Installed one of the new koolance flowmeters
Im trying to install a window, but i think its defeated me
I bought some of this stuff from PPC but just cant get the damn acrylic in... surely theres gota be a trick to it but ed if i know how to do it
I think part of my problem is ive cut a square hole, shoulda made it rounded
Nice build Ballzor, what size tubing are you using?
- Case : Silverstone TJ07 Black
- Sound : Asus Xonar Essence STX
- Video : Asus GTX 680 4gb w/ Ek Nickel Block
- Board : ASUS Maximus V Formula Z77
- CPU : Core i5-3570K @ 4.5 Ghz
- CPU Cooler : EK-Supreme HF w/Plexi Top
- Memory : 16GB Samsung 2133mhz 10-9-10-29
- PSU: Enermax Revolution 85+ 1050w
- HDD : Crucial 250gb M4 Raid 0
- Radiator : Thermochill PA 120.3
- Reservoir : EK-Multioption Res 250 Rev.2
- Water Pump : Laing DDC-3.2 w/XSPC Top
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